TB removal and then some!!!

[Roadster]

Thought I would start a new thread for Throttle Body removal. Although the seasoned ZR-1 owners know this all too well, this is basically intended for an owner who may be apprehensive doing this for the first time.
With many suggestions, advice, text, and returned PM's in the last 24-48 hours from different members that I contacted, a big thank you to all...:thumbsup::thumbsup:
I also searched Cliff's Solutions, and maybe missed the thread for pics or detailed info that I was looking for....you could read his info for hours....:)

So here we go.....disconnect the battery, just in case....
here are the tools you will need for removal....
I used 3/8" drive....breaker bar, ratchet, extensions and Torx socket set. Also good to have a pencil or long magnet on hand. You will also need a "mallet" hammer just to tap the throttle body loose after the bolts are removed.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170428_131645.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170428_131645.jpg.html)
1-air cleaner assembly removed
2-air horn removed....there are 4 T-25 screws that hold the air horn on the inside, and 2 T-25 screws that are on the outside on the top at opposite ends. The bolts on the inside are made so they stay attached to the air horn when removed. Only problem with mine, is that one bolt comes completely out. That a good reason for the magnet, just in case.
3-undo the 2 T-15 screws on top of the plenum that hold the throttle cable to the top of the plenum. I used blue painters tape to mark the cable so I would reinstall in the exact position.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170428_122458.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170428_122458.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

4-now that the cable is undone you can remove the 5 T40 screws with a breaker bar to get them loose and then use your lightweight hammer to tap the TB loose.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170428_130125.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170428_130125.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170428_130118.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170428_130118.jpg.html)
5-Pay attention to the size of the bolts that come out of the TB, lay them out in the rotation that they were removed and take note. That way upon installation, they will go back in the same location. 4 are on the paper towel, from R-L and the 5th bolt is to the left of the pic, you can barely see the thread, that is the bottom bolt.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170428_131322.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170428_131322.jpg.html)
6-My finish on the TB is peeling off, I just may undo the cable now that I can see how it is attached and refinish the TB myself or send it out to Marc for a complete overhaul, don't know yet.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170428_130819.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170428_130819.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

7-now is a good time for the little things too....such as the clips...already sanded and 0000 steel wool used and ready for paint...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170428_122827.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170428_122827.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170428_123139.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170428_123139.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170428_123703.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170428_123703.jpg.html)

Again, thanking everyone for their quick responses to my inquiries and an especially big thanks to Yun (secondchance) who has always answered my text at any time whenever needed
Appreciating all of the input received......:dancing

[GOLDCYLON]

:dancing Now that you feel comfortable time for the stainless bolts upgrade

[Roadster]

Oh i always feel comfortable, lol, but with my luck you never know what is going to happen next....the stories i could tell....lol
We did the stainless on the plenum when we did the pull, except one got lost in never never land....but will check into the others.....

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[secondchance]

Tom,

First, your erratic idle rpm may be due to intermittent vacuum leak.
As for the TB corrosion, this is caused by galvanic corrosion - electric current plus steel bolt and aluminum TB, both exposed to water base coolant. Even if refinished will return unless the cause is resolved. In my case, bypassing coolant through TB, was the fix.

[GOLDCYLON]

Oh i always feel comfortable, lol, but with my luck you never know what is going to happen next....the stories i could tell....lol
We did the stainless on the plenum when we did the pull, except one got lost in never never land....but will check into the others.....

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I noticed that. Jerry has all those stainless bolts ready to buy ;)

[Roadster]

I imagine that everyone else is having the same problem with the forum. Don't know what I did, but I may be able to post......lol


Tom,

First, your erratic idle rpm may be due to intermittent vacuum leak.
As for the TB corrosion, this is caused by galvanic corrosion - electric current plus steel bolt and aluminum TB, both exposed to water base coolant. Even if refinished will return unless the cause is resolved. In my case, bypassing coolant through TB, was the fix.

Yun,
I found the problem apparently the smoke test was correct. I don't think I have an intermittent vacuum leak, rather it is indeed the primary blade. The TB bypass may be an option for me in the future...I will probably need your expertize for that mod as I know you have something different that you do from reading previous threads.

Did the light test recommended by G8nightman (George) with a flashlight shining through the throttle body blades. I can tell you when you turn out the lights in the garage, it gets dark real quick!!!:sign10:
But the results are in and correct. When shinning the light through each secondary blade, there is no light what-so-ever coming through. When holding the light up to the primary blade from the back, you can see a good amount of light and also see how far the blade is open. I would venture to say that is my idle problem, no doubt.
Thanks George for the tip and btw, your PM box was fill as of early this AM.
Here are the pics....
light through the primary blade...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170428_201249.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170428_201249.jpg.html)
light turned off...see what I mean about it being dark.....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170428_201303.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170428_201303.jpg.html)
flashlight back on....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170428_201255.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170428_201255.jpg.html)

Now I have to decide and figure out the correct way to accomplish the task. I am not touching the secondary blades, except for a light clean up...hmmmm
maybe not!!!
Have to determine if both the min air adjustment procedure from Dominic and the application of the dry lube will correct the problem. Or just try to adjust the idle stop screw as it is in its present state, and also add the dry lube to help seal the perimeter of the primary blade.

Also looks like I need to sand the TB as some of the finish has cracked off and the top is bubbled, so it needs a refinish. Just might attempt to do it all in the engine compartment and not remove the throttle cable at all.


I noticed that. Jerry has all those stainless bolts ready to buy ;)

Yes, for sure....that is where the first batch came from....:)

[Jagdpanzer]

Tom,
Thanks for sharing with the group. Here are a couple of photos of the difficult to adjust Allen set screw exchanged for a M5 x 0.8 25mm cap screw and full size nut. If you do this mod be sure to massage the contact end like shown in the bottom photo.

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg333/pwasinger/AF14D11B-4B0D-4520-B641-EAF981AD9768_zpsllwfj7hx.jpg

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg333/pwasinger/06058B6B-AF80-4DA2-9F6B-72C44C8B6FDF_zpsov4lvkwp.jpg

[XfireZ51]

Gap on the primary certainly looks greater than .002".

[Roadster]

Phil,
Glad to anytime I can...
Thanks for the pics, no success in getting a 7mm screw as mentioned in the other thread. So the spec you gave will help me get the correct cap screw.
Going out to the other car tomorrow will see if we can massage the contact end as you have shown after I get one.
Thanks for the tip....appreciated...


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[Jagdpanzer]

In my experience when using a bright light the opening clearance appears much bigger than it actually is when measured with a feeler gauge.

[XfireZ51]

In my experience when using a bright light the opening clearance appears much bigger than it actually is when measured with a feeler gauge.

phil,

I understand what ur saying but that still looks bigger than the thickness of a paper strip. Due to the contour of the bore, I don't rely on a feeler gauge. A paper strip gets it close as a start.

[carter200]

Need an engraved billet throttle body plate to clean things up.

[Roadster]

In my experience when using a bright light the opening clearance appears much bigger than it actually is when measured with a feeler gauge.

phil,

I understand what ur saying but that still looks bigger than the thickness of a paper strip. Due to the contour of the bore, I don't rely on a feeler gauge. A paper strip gets it close as a start.


Did the paper strip test as posted in the other thread, but would like to know how much of an opening it really is...


Need an engraved billet throttle body plate to clean things up.

Sounds good to me, what are the choices???

[carter200]

You've seen my billet throttle body plates on many, many Z here and in the newsletter in my sponsor section. Email me if you have ideas for something else.

[XfireZ51]

Did the paper strip test as posted in the other thread, but would like to know how much of an opening it really is...


The paper strip is about .002". Its a place to start not a final. That will be based on IAC counts and desired idle rpm. The paper should have a slight drag to it.

[Roadster]

You've seen my billet throttle body plates on many, many Z here and in the newsletter in my sponsor section. Email me if you have ideas for something else.

Can't send you an email as of yet because of the forum problem.
I do have an idea for something else....

The paper strip is about .002". Its a place to start not a final. That will be based on IAC counts and desired idle rpm. The paper should have a slight drag to it.

Copy that....thx...

[Roadster]

FYI, as per Phil's recommendation....went to HD and purchased the following...
Cap screw, hex bolt & nuts...originally purchased a 7mm bolt, but was too big...also could not locate a full size nut as of yet!!!
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/dabb3e78-1725-4e3c-a690-b36b115b6380.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/dabb3e78-1725-4e3c-a690-b36b115b6380.jpg.html)
now my grinding abilities are not the best....lol so what I did was used a file to smooth and "flatten" out the bottom of the screw for a full contact with the linkage. my grinding skills on the left....lol the file work in the middle and a screw as is on the right...as you can see with the screw in the middle the outer edge is removed for a totally flat surface. also did this with the hex bolt...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170429_144550.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170429_144550.jpg.html)
now you can have a choice as to what type of screw or bolt to use as to if you will ever need to do the min/air adjustment as per Dominic on the vehicle. the Cap screw uses a 4mm Allen hex wrench which I have is almost 4" L.
the Hex bolt uses a 8mm combo wrench which I have is almost 4 3/4" L for adjustments... (your sizes may vary)
each one will reach outside of the linkage area making adjustments on the vehicle easier. (although IMO and what Phil has shown, the Hex Bolt would seem the way to go)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170430_123044.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170430_123044.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170430_123124.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170430_123124.jpg.html)
for the original idle screw, I found that either a 2mm or 3mm Allen will fit that opening, but the keys are way too short to reach in and make any on car adjustments....

[XfireZ51]

Yes I would advise against the Allen bolt. SOOOOOO much easier w the hex head. Its a small throttle plate, so tiny changes make a BIG difference.

[carter200]

Can't send you an email as of yet because of the forum problem.
I do have an idea for something else....



Copy that....thx...

You have a PM.....:dancing

[Roadster]

You have a PM.....:dancing

Read and replied.....:D

[carter200]

Read and replied.....:D

Back at ya.......:cheers:

[Dynomite]

7-now is a good time for the little things too....such as the clips...already sanded and 0000 steel wool used and ready for paint...
[URL=http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170428_122827.jpg.html]http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170428_122827.jpg

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170428_130819.jpg

I would consider Carter's Billet Clips and Billet TB Cover.......:thumbsup:

:happy1:

[XfireZ51]

I would consider doing a bypass of the throttle body coolant.

[Dynomite]

I would consider doing a bypass of the throttle body coolant.

I would consider..........Oh........the list is too long for this post :D

Tom already suggested "and then some" :sign10:

[Roadster]

I would consider Carter's Billet Clips and Billet TB Cover.......:thumbsup:

:happy1:

Already have on the cover, will check out the clips....:thumbsup:

I would consider doing a bypass of the throttle body coolant.

Don't know if I trust myself to do the throttle body coolant
bypass...:dontknow:


I would consider..........Oh........the list is too long for this post :D

Tom already suggested "and then some" :sign10:

Cliff,
You may as well post the long list, as I will probably take the Z out of service for awhile. After speaking to another member for a length of time, I am finding out that the primary blade is not to be completely closed and is supposed to be opened slightly. So it looks like that is not the source for my idle issue. So what I thought was to be was and is not!!!
Their feeling is that there is a slight vacuum leak that happens when the engine warms up. Could be a number of items. So I think I may take the Z out of service and do a plenum pull. I have to start from the beginning and go through everything to find the issue. As was pointed out, the min/air adjustment may not fix the idle issue. Feeling was the idle air stop was not touched and you didn't have the idle problem in the past, so the theory again turns to a vacuum leaks as others have pointed out. And the fact that the test Yun and others suggested to me about blocking the TB and the results being that the idle came down from being high to "normal" but did not kill the engine. And as Yun and others have said in the past, this leans towards vacuum. The other member also agrees with this theory.
And once again I appreciate everyone's input and welcome additional thoughts on the issue.
So I imagine the best way to do this is start at the pull and go from there.
To be continued........lol

[carter200]

Tom,
You have yet another PM....;)


Cliff,
Thanks for the kudos :-D

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Thanks for sharing all these details and nice photos Tom! I have been having some idle issues since I got this 95, but time to address it. I have this NIB TB and might as well put it to use instead of on the shelf for the last 14 years or so.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170502/34dd597d2627549cbce860ab5fe39d97.jpg

I'll add the Carter Bling Special while I'm at it and get the stainless fastener kit from Jerry. Thanks Phil for the adjustment screw tip and I'll do that while I'm at it. I'm waiting on my ported plenum and IHs from Corey so I can do this all at once. I would be better off sending the old TB to Marc to work his magic, but can't afford the down time right now without a garage. I have to do the coolant bypass too. Best wishes to get your issue squared away.


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (https://siteowners.tapatalk.com/byo/displayAndDownloadByoApp?rid=90383)

[XfireZ51]

Marc offers a very simple coolant bypass solution utilizing a bent aluminum fuel line that passes under the plenum and connects the throttle body coolant hoses to each other.
The solution I have seals the coolant passages at the injector housing (both sides) and includes a small valve to bleed the coolant system.

[Roadster]

Tom,
You have yet another PM....;)


Cliff,
Thanks for the kudos :-D

Carter,
Another PM answered.....:)

Thanks for sharing all these details and nice photos Tom! I have been having some idle issues since I got this 95, but time to address it. I have this NIB TB and might as well put it to use instead of on the shelf for the last 14 years or so.

Craig that TB looks great, now only if I could persuade you to let it go for some :pray Philly Cheesesteaks & Hoagies and $$$.....lol just had to try!!!

Just going to take my time and get this idle issue fixed. A learning experience for sure. Also will wait and see what the results are with mine before thinking about sending the TB out to Marc for a check-up.

Glad you enjoy the pics, I enjoy taking them!!!:D
Keep us posted on your progress too...

Marc offers a very simple coolant bypass solution utilizing a bent aluminum fuel line that passes under the plenum and connects the throttle body coolant hoses to each other.
The solution I have seals the coolant passages at the injector housing (both sides) and includes a small valve to bleed the coolant system.

I did see that before, elaborate more on your solution when time permits...
I guess my concerns are winter driving, (which I don't use the Z that much), so not a concern....lol The other one is air being trapped in the system....and I assume your bleeder valve would solve that problem. I know there are a lot of members to have done the bypass in different ways, so it is something to be considered.

[A1990]

Tim I had the exact same symptoms you describe. I sent my TB to Marc for his repair

Had my TB back in two days...problem solved


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[XfireZ51]

Tom,

Here's one way to eliminate coolant flow. Different than mine.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-2.html#post1581460754

You might also ask Marc for the "helper spring" he sells for the TB. That may be enough in your situation.

[Roadster]

Dennis, I'm already in this far, so the plenum will come off. Then will check for vacuum leaks and see if any hoses popped off.
TB is last resort.....

Sent from my SM-G935P using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Tom,

Here's one way to eliminate coolant flow. Different than mine.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-2.html#post1581460754

You might also ask Marc for the "helper spring" he sells for the TB. That may be enough in your situation.

Dom, will give it some thought, I'm still not feeling too comfy to attempt this mod...
Thanks for the link, and the info for the "helper spring". :thumbsup: Will contact Marc.

[Roadster]

Latest update.....success!!!!
After I used my 5 lb sledge and crow bar, removal was easy peasy....lol
Having a cold one in celebration of my first plenum pull myself.....woohoo!!!

Used a hand siphon for the antifreeze, what a treat that was....I won't go into detail and yes it makes for the case to do the TB coolant bypass....

Just looking at everything at a quick glance, all seems fine. The one thing I was concerned about was when I pulled the plenum up the "curly" line (I imagine a PCV line) came out of its connector. But I can't tell you if it was already out or not. Will check more within the net few days. A lot going on, even with the 74, can't loose sight of that project...:nono:

All-in-all, everything went well so far!!!
Looks like I'll continue to freshen up parts as time goes on. Now is a good time to repaint the plenum. And maybe even more....

Here are some pics and a question or two.....
Another "famous" block(s) of wood....lol...they come in handy!!!
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170502_210942.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170502_210942.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170502_211007.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170502_211007.jpg.html)
You may be able to see some of the connectors that need to be undone before plenum removal....the crow bar really comes in handy here....I didn't really say that, did I??? just kidding, must be the brew.....
IIRC, there must be 5-6 connections that need to be unplugged and one unbolted. Take your time when doing these, as patience is a must...
Again, directed to those who may want to attempt this for the first time...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170502_211028.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170502_211028.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

One of the also "famous" curly lines under the plenum. This one came out of its connector when I pulled up on the plenum. Did it pop out before, that I can't tell you.....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170502_214445.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170502_214445.jpg.html)
I imagine this is the PCV "pig tail" that Yun has referred too on numerous occasions. Have to see if this can be replaced, just to be sure....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170502_214532.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170502_214532.jpg.html)
not tapped....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170502_213717.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170502_213717.jpg.html)
tapped, no foreign objects allowed here....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170502_214219.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170502_214219.jpg.html)
had enough for the night....lol the LT5 is feeling nice and cozy all covered...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170502_214926.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170502_214926.jpg.html)

[A26B]

Looks like the old original plenum gaskets were re-used when the plenum was pulled last. I'm not a fan of re-using gaskets, they're not that expensive compared to the problem of chasing vacuum leaks.

[Roadster]

Looks like the old original plenum gaskets were re-used when the plenum was pulled last. I'm not a fan of re-using gaskets, they're not that expensive compared to the problem of chasing vacuum leaks.

Yes they were....I have a set of thin gaskets, but may just order the thicker ones, plus a few other items....
Do you carry the part where the hoses connect into??? the bottom hole in the connector is the "curly" line connected to the LSF of the plenum.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/da373dc0-e2bd-41dd-824d-a3a66fd5b087.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/da373dc0-e2bd-41dd-824d-a3a66fd5b087.jpg.html)

[carter200]

You need my billet EGR plate to replace that nasty black piece you have there......;)

[Roadster]

You need my billet EGR plate to replace that nasty black piece you have there......;)

Send me a pic and info whenever you can.....:)

[Roadster]

Looking over Marc's papers on the TB, apparently the info mentioned in his
Throttle Body Service page points more to a vacuum leak for me, rather than the TB itself. There have also been other members who have stated the same thing.
And also learned something else on this read, and that is, that Dag is not used on the primary throttle blade.


Just for clarification, the sentence below was JMO, was not read anywhere...
Of course the leak can be so minor and only occur when the engine goes in Closed Loop.
I think a gasket change is in order and a complete check of every line.
I also need to find a 1/4" drive T-40 or a thinner 3/8" drive T-40 socket when torqueing down the plenum bolts. There are 2 bolts, 1 on each side of the plenum between the runners, that is very tight to get in there. I had to use a 6mm Allen key and a spark plug socket to go over the Allen key for leverage with a short extension and the 3/8" ratchet to break 1 of those bolts loose.
So if anyone knows where I can get a thin walled T-40, it would be appreciated.

Found an extended Torx set in 3/8" drive that will work perfect....

[XfireZ51]

"Of course the leak can be so minor and only occur when the engine goes in Closed Loop."

This does not happen. A vacuum leak is a vacuum leak. It doesn't care about open or closed loop. There's nothing that happens in closed loop that would create a vacuum leak if there wasn't one there already.

[A26B]

....
Do you carry the part where the hoses connect into??? the bottom hole in the connector is the "curly" line connected to the LSF of the plenum.

No I do not have it. I can tell you that the single zip tie around the whole rubber connector will do more to create vacuum leaks than to prevent.
EDIT, text added: Zip ties can be used, but work much better if you slice out enough rubber between the pipe holes to use 2 zip-ties, 1 around each pipe. If you do that, it means you will connect/disconnect the pipe at the other end during plenum pulls, where the small spring clamp is.

I haven't personally done what I'm about to suggest, but have sure thought about it while having difficulty with that pipe & the rubber connector. Why not cut off a short section of the plastic pipe & glue it into the connector? Then get a section of vacuum hose long enough to eliminate the looped section of plastic pipe so it's not so hard to install.

[Roadster]

"Of course the leak can be so minor and only occur when the engine goes in Closed Loop."

This does not happen. A vacuum leak is a vacuum leak. It doesn't care about open or closed loop. There's nothing that happens in closed loop that would create a vacuum leak if there wasn't one there already.


Then is there something else that would let the idle be "normal" in Open Loop, but change when in Closed Loop and only change when you are driving, therefore putting a load on the engine?
Could it be something in the PCV system, or have anything to do with the charcoal line, or canister?
Could it be that the "curly" line came loose in its connection but not totally out?

If I start the engine for the first time, and just sit there, which I did on occasion, then the idle is "normal" no matter what I do in either Open or Closed Loop. I can rev the engine 2k or higher and it will come back to normal. It's only when I start driving and by that time the engine is warming up and in Closed Loop, was when I would be getting the high idle at a complete stop.
But then if I pulled over and stopped and shut the engine down, upon restart the idle would be "normal" until the next stop.

I know this is repeating myself from previous posts, but just trying to figure it out and learn along the way.

I also know probably the only way to determine the issue is by process of elimination. After I do whatever I need to do and get it back together, I'll have to see what happens....

Anyway, good conversation from all....appreciated.....

[Roadster]

No I do not have it. I can tell you that the single zip tie around the whole rubber connector will do more to create vacuum leaks than to prevent.

I haven't personally done what I'm about to suggest, but have sure thought about it while having difficulty with that pipe & the rubber connector. Why not cut off a short section of the plastic pipe & glue it into the connector? Then get a section of vacuum hose long enough to eliminate the looped section of plastic pipe so it's not so hard to install.

Sounds like a plan, since I won't have it back together for awhile. Good suggestion.
Yun had also mentioned about gluing that end into the connector.

That connector also feels very soft, don't know if it is supposed to be that way, or is that from the heat generated in that location???

[carter200]

Send me a pic and info whenever you can.....:)

You have an email with pic and price :cheers:

[Roadster]

You have an email with pic and price :cheers:

Thank you sir, will check it out today....:)

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Craig that TB looks great, now only if I could persuade you to let it go for some :pray Philly Cheesesteaks & Hoagies and $$$.....lol just had to try!!!

Just going to take my time and get this idle issue fixed. A learning experience for sure. Also will wait and see what the results are with mine before thinking about sending the TB out to Marc for a check-up.

Glad you enjoy the pics, I enjoy taking them!!!:D
Keep us posted on your progress too...



Hey Tom,
Thanks for your thoughts. I can't even get myself to break the seal on the packaging to know I really want to use it let alone sell it. Those cheesesteaks and hoagies sound tempting though....

You are approaching it the right way to take your time and do it right. I'm gong to do the same to confirm what the real issue is, but earlier discussions with Marc point to TB issues. If I could put my car down for a few weeks I rather send the TB to Marc if so, but my situation here poses some challenges for down time with the Z.

You're almost as thorough as Dynomite Cliff and you're going to help folks out with all the details and photos. Will post up when I get to my projects and just collecting up all the parts now while waiting on extra top end components. Thanks for sharing. :handshak:

[Roadster]

Another side note brought to my attention, the connector shown in post #39 is for the EVAP lines. I had mentioned that I thought it may have been the PCV pigtail, which it is not. I stand corrected!!!

[Roadster]

Hey Tom,
Thanks for your thoughts. I can't even get myself to break the seal on the packaging to know I really want to use it let alone sell it. Those cheesesteaks and hoagies sound tempting though....

You are approaching it the right way to take your time and do it right. I'm gong to do the same to confirm what the real issue is, but earlier discussions with Marc point to TB issues. If I could put my car down for a few weeks I rather send the TB to Marc if so, but my situation here poses some challenges for down time with the Z.

You're almost as thorough as Dynomite Cliff and you're going to help folks out with all the details and photos. Will post up when I get to my projects and just collecting up all the parts now while waiting on extra top end components. Thanks for sharing. :handshak:

Craig,
No problem...lol Yes, they do sound tempting....and we just found another place that has the best cheesesteaks to date in our area.
If I could figure out a way to get those cheesesteaks and hoagies out to you and still be fresh, it would be my treat. hmmmm, have to work on that!!!

I know what you mean about breaking the seal, years ago I found and purchased an NOS Q-Jet for a 70 Corvette 454 motor still wrapped up in the original box . And it still is today.....lol
Intended to use on my 74, but ended up getting my original rebuilt, which I will end up using.

I'm glad you used the words "almost as", don't think I could ever match Cliff!!!
I do hope the details and photos help the individuals as mentioned before, to take on a project that maybe they thought was beyond their capabilities.

When all back together, if I end up having the same issue, then I will assume it could be the TB. But until then, and as suggested by other members, that isn't the issue. We shall see....

Anxious to hear your progress when you can troubleshoot your issue. Keep us posted for sure....

[Roadster]

FYI...This is the extended Torx set I found which also includes the T-40 needed for the plenum bolts. Although this may be common knowledge among the seasoned members, I would suggest a purchase of this kit or a similar one for those members thinking about doing their first plenum pull. The extended T-40 will not only fit in those two tight spaces mentioned before, with ease. But you will now be fully seated in the bolt during disassembly and when putting the correct torque on these during reassembly. And not have the fear of stripping out the head of the bolt.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/381149868006?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[Roadster]

Just want to say I can't comment enough about all of the contacts from PM's, phone calls, texting and posting that I have been receiving lately with thoughts, ideas, and suggestions concerning the idle issue.
Again, it is very much appreciated from all and as I always say, a good continuing learning process along the way....Thank you all!!!:thumbsup::D

Been talking to VetteVet (Jep) on numerous occasions and he also came up with an idea for replacing that connector. And that is to find 2 90* elbows that would fit onto the solenoid and also be large enough for the 2 lines to be inserted into them. And then use a small plastic tie to secure.

Yun has also has suggested to Epoxy the lines into the connector. Also I determined that what Yun used during the "first" plenum pull IIRC was a piece of "sticky" tape around the outside of the line and then inserted into the connector seemed to work.
As you will see in the pic, once I reinserted the line in question, it was in there snug. I now don't think that there was even a slight chance that the line ever popped out on its own. It most likely came out when I pulled up on the plenum during removal. So whatever Yun did before apparently worked.

It also looks like there was a plenum removal along the way before my ownership, as this connector has a plastic tie. And from what I have been told, is that the factory did not use plastic ties.

the connector...it was not as soft as what I thought last night...the opening is soft, but the connector itself is firm and doesn't have any cracks...the one opening appears to be slightly elongated...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170503_122358.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170503_122358.jpg.html)
after reinserting the line in question.....a very snug fit as per Yun...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170503_122447.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170503_122447.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170503_122508.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170503_122508.jpg.html)

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Craig,

No problem...lol Yes, they do sound tempting....and we just found another place that has the best cheesesteaks to date in our area.

If I could figure out a way to get those cheesesteaks and hoagies out to you and still be fresh, it would be my treat. hmmmm, have to work on that!!!



I know what you mean about breaking the seal, years ago I found and purchased an NOS Q-Jet for a 70 Corvette 454 motor still wrapped up in the original box . And it still is today.....lol

Intended to use on my 74, but ended up getting my original rebuilt, which I will end up using.



I'm glad you used the words "almost as", don't think I could ever match Cliff!!!

I do hope the details and photos help the individuals as mentioned before, to take on a project that maybe they thought was beyond their capabilities.



When all back together, if I end up having the same issue, then I will assume it could be the TB. But until then, and as suggested by other members, that isn't the issue. We shall see....



Anxious to hear your progress when you can troubleshoot your issue. Keep us posted for sure....


Thanks for your thoughts and offer. The closest I have eaten lately is Subway steak and cheese sandwich. Not even close.

I figured that new TB does no good sitting on the shelf and this is my last hurrah with this car as I'll probably get rid of later and move on.

Yes, Cliff is a legend already with all of his posts and thousands of hours into tech threads.

Thanks and I'll keep up the great posts.


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (https://siteowners.tapatalk.com/byo/displayAndDownloadByoApp?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Thanks for your thoughts and offer. The closest I have eaten lately is Subway steak and cheese sandwich. Not even close.

I figured that new TB does no good sitting on the shelf and this is my last hurrah with this car as I'll probably get rid of later and move on.

Yes, Cliff is a legend already with all of his posts and thousands of hours into tech threads.

Thanks and I'll keep up the great posts.


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (https://siteowners.tapatalk.com/byo/displayAndDownloadByoApp?rid=90383)


Yes Subway is ok, but no substitute for the real thing....

So your going to use the NOS TB and eventually sell the Z???

I agree with you on Cliff, great research and tech threads as I'm sure everyone would agree...

Always enjoy your contributions....

Sent you a PM.....

[Roadster]

Just received the extended Torx socket set with the T-40 included. As you can see in the top of the pic it fits perfect in either the stock or SS bolts. Will be much easier as mentioned before, removing and torqueing down the bolts especially the two between the runners on each side. Under $20 for the set shipped, a nice addition to your tool chest if you don't already have them...and made in the USA...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170504_204754.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170504_204754.jpg.html)

[Jagdpanzer]

Tom,
Where did you get the Torx?
I've had good results with this glue for repair jobs like securing vacuum lines.
http://eclecticproducts.com/products/amazing-goop/amazing-goop-automotive.html
This stuff bonds anything to anything and holds tight where other glues fail.

[Jagdpanzer]

Never mind, I saw your above post and link

[Roadster]

Phil,
Thanks for the tip on the glue, just ordered it a few minutes ago. Although there were a few ideas and similar suggestions on how to accomplish the job, your suggestion seems that it will work just fine....:thumbsup:
The connector should not be a problem now, with the Goop. It would be nice if these connectors were still available, and there are other alternatives that have been suggested that would also work. So the issue at hand would get resolved one way or another....

Glad you found the link, even though it was a few $ more from this seller, the Torx kit was ordered 5-2, and delivered in 2 days...:)

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Yes Subway is ok, but no substitute for the real thing....

So your going to use the NOS TB and eventually sell the Z???

I agree with you on Cliff, great research and tech threads as I'm sure everyone would agree...

Always enjoy your contributions....

Sent you a PM.....

We can't even use the word "substitute" for a real Philly Steak and not sure I have ever had a real one.

Once I retire and no longer have benefits under the Status of Force Agreement (SOFA) to register and pay lower taxes, I'm not sure I want to pay through my nose for what will be a 30 year old car by then. The road taxes here are based on cc of the engine size so it will get ridiculous to continue owning a V8 as well as the additional tax for the age. Right now it would be $1,000 a year just for road tax. Not counting the inspection and registration. In addition, I'm not going to screw with all the idiosyncracies of this car in old age. By then I might have to just junk the car as C4s have no real value here. I'll enjoy it for now though and love it.

That is why Cliff is "Dynomite"!

Thanks for your thoughts and keep up the great work. :saluting:

[Roadster]

We can't even use the word "substitute" for a real Philly Steak and not sure I have ever had a real one.

Once I retire and no longer have benefits under the Status of Force Agreement (SOFA) to register and pay lower taxes, I'm not sure I want to pay through my nose for what will be a 30 year old car by then. The road taxes here are based on cc of the engine size so it will get ridiculous to continue owning a V8 as well as the additional tax for the age. Right now it would be $1,000 a year just for road tax. Not counting the inspection and registration. In addition, I'm not going to screw with all the idiosyncracies of this car in old age. By then I might have to just junk the car as C4s have no real value here. I'll enjoy it for now though and love it.

That is why Cliff is "Dynomite"!

Thanks for your thoughts and keep up the great work. :saluting:

Craig,
I read the PM before this post, so no need to answer that particular question again....lol

You are correct, there is no substitute "for a real Philly (cheese) steak". As many times I have tried in my travels to different states, it is just not the same. One of my favorite combo's is, cheesesteak w/provolone and fried onions.....very tasty to say the least!!! And I prefer the actual pieces of cheese, although we also offer the liquid cheese, which I am not a fan of!!!

That is crazy with the auto tax there, but it is what it is.....You can't junk the Z after all that time.....someone will buy it back home.....

Yes, Cliff along with quite a few others here are very knowledgeable not only on the LT5, but also on the C4 in general. This forum has a great knowledge base for sure....

Your welcome and I'll keep trying to do the best....:saluting:

[Roadster]

update!!!!

Continuing to check as much as I can anywhere there are things to be checked.
Did an ohm test on the spark plug wires, I also have a spare set, so I compared the two sets.
According to my findings, I think #8 plug is bad, reason being is that I could not get a reading on the wire. It stayed @ 1 on the meter even though it intermittently flashed numbers for a spilt second or so, no matter how many times I tested the wire.
The range in specs allows up to 30,000 ohms, any reading above that the wire is to be replaced. Thank you Jep for that info as per the FSM...
So I set the meter @ 20k and figured any reading above that would surely seem suspect. Also to my understanding is the different length in the wire(s) will give you different readings. So all wires will not give you the exact same result.
I believe my wires are original as far as I know.

Results are in "thousands"

Original wires.................Used original wires.........
#1 9.25------------------8.94
#3 7.00------------------7.74
#5 4.87------------------6.12
#7 4.63------------------4.92

#2 6.88------------------7.91
#4 7.27------------------8.25
#6 4.82------------------7.62
#8 no reading-----------8.73-------extra #8 7.29

As you can see both sets of wires and the extra #8 wire are all within specs. The only wire I am replacing will be #8.
Does this have anything to do with my high idle issue? IMO, I don't think so, but it may address why my idle even when I considered it to be "normal", even before the high idle issue, does fluctuate 40-50 rpms. It could be that #8 plug wire has something to do with that issue.

in the following pics you may be able to see that there is no corrosion inside of the wire shown, which all of them looked like, except #8...
inside of a plug wire coil side...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170507_125040.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170507_125040.jpg.html)
inside of a plug wire plug side...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170507_125138.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170507_125138.jpg.html)
#8 coil side....good...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170507_125856.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170507_125856.jpg.html)
#8 plug side...not so good...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170507_125831.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170507_125831.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

meter hooked up to #7 original wire...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/ceb3549e-d7ab-4185-9d50-c7c92039aa10.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/ceb3549e-d7ab-4185-9d50-c7c92039aa10.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170507_125253.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170507_125253.jpg.html)
replacement #8 wire looking good at each end...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170507_132253.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170507_132253.jpg.html)

continuing on......

[Roadster]

Disassembly continues....lol as if I don't have enough going on with the other two!!!
I went against some advice about removing the coolant pipes for concern about coolant bolts breaking. I took a chance and took my time, and safely removed all eight bolts...whew!!! There was just too much crud on and around them to try and clean with them still on the engine. So I consider myself lucky with their removal...
Now if only I can remember how it all goes back together, I will be in good shape....lol...
I didn't know what to expect when I removed the pipes, but the inside of the pipes and the IH's where the pipes attach are extremely clean. I thought I might find some residue, etc., I was surprised!!!
Some pics...will look much better after prep & paint...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/515a2bc9-ce87-443a-96a2-e518e1410c2c.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/515a2bc9-ce87-443a-96a2-e518e1410c2c.jpg.html)
notice the numbers on the RS pipe, looks like either a #2, letter "Z", or 7-11...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/d4858421-8847-4867-ac3e-5c094b44f620.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/d4858421-8847-4867-ac3e-5c094b44f620.jpg.html)
IH side....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170507_154742.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170507_154742.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170507_154755.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170507_154755.jpg.html)
too much crud, needs a good cleaning...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170507_155226.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170507_155226.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170507_155147.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170507_155147.jpg.html)

[carter200]

After you clean/paint them send to me to engrave them. Makes a very nice addition to the overall engine aesthetics. Send to me, will engrave and paint the engraving and send back in mail the next day.

[S.hafsmo]

Remarkably clean coolant passage. I assume you've installed the Carter bling on the TB? How did it look under the old TB cover?

[carter200]

Remarkably clean coolant passage. I assume you've installed the Carter bling on the TB? How did it look under the old TB cover?

How did yours turn out?

[Roadster]

After you clean/paint them send to me to engrave them. Makes a very nice addition to the overall engine aesthetics. Send to me, will engrave and paint the engraving and send back in mail the next day.

I just might do that, as I have an idea for engraving something on them.


Remarkably clean coolant passage. I assume you've installed the Carter bling on the TB? How did it look under the old TB cover?


Yes it was, and as explained to me, along with the improvements of antifreeze over the years and using distilled water makes for a clean inside...

I have not worked on the TB as of yet. And I haven't received my Carter bling yet. Will update as the job moves on, looking to get something done on the TB this week. But also going out to the 74 three or four days this week, so keeping busy to say the least.....lol

[Roadster]

Started cleaning the cam covers last night to get rid of the grease and grime that has accumulated over the years. Still undecided if I should go ahead and paint them on the car as Steve (We Gone) did, which was an amazing job. Depending on how clean I get them, I might just detail the bolts and let it be as is, and also repaint the letters. The sides of the IH's are coming up nice. So we shall see.

Also going to order the TB coolant bypass line from Marc, rather than tap into anything to eliminate the coolant from there, it seems more user friendly to me...lol

just a mild clean up so far....much, much more to clean....don't know if I'll be able to get the stains completely eliminated...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170508_102559.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170508_102559.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170508_102630.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170508_102630.jpg.html)

[carter200]

I have not worked on the TB as of yet. And I haven't received my Carter bling yet. Will update as the job moves on, looking to get something done on the TB this week. But also going out to the 74 three or four days this week, so keeping busy to say the least.....lol

Programming the engraving in the morning and hope to be painted/done and in the mail to you Thursday afternoon.......;)

[S.hafsmo]

How did yours turn out?

Mine turned out great. :cheers:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/924/4IAxql.jpg

Throttlebody needs some new paint, though.

Roadster,

Your LT5 look a lot better than mine, if that's any comfort. I've got lots of darkened spots that won't clean off. If you do the re-paint, keep us posted on the cylinder cover removal.

[Tripler]

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170503_122358.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170503_122358.jpg.html)
after reinserting the line in question.....a very snug fit as per Yun...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170503_122447.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170503_122447.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170503_122508.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170503_122508.jpg.html)

Hi Tom . I would switch out that plastic tie for a black weather proof one . They will last longer . Once those clear ones get exposed to any sunlight they degrade quickly ...
Mike

[Roadster]

Programming the engraving in the morning and hope to be painted/done and in the mail to you Thursday afternoon.......;)

No biggie, take your time, not going back together soon, still have work to do. But post a pic if you don't mind after your finished, very anxious to see the engraving.....:D

Mine turned out great. :cheers:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/924/4IAxql.jpg

Throttlebody needs some new paint, though.

Roadster,

Your LT5 look a lot better than mine, if that's any comfort. I've got lots of darkened spots that won't clean off. If you do the re-paint, keep us posted on the cylinder cover removal.

I am not removing the cam covers, way too much work to get involved with at this time. Don't even know if I will attempt to paint them on the car.
The TB, Plenum will get painted and I may reshoot the air horn to match. The sides of the IH's are cleaning up nicely so far. Going to try the paint Cliff has suggested and see what shade it turns out to be.

Hi Tom . I would switch out that plastic tie for a black weather proof one . They will last longer . Once those clear ones get exposed to any sunlight they degrade quickly ...
Mike

Hello Mike, thanks for the tip, I will do that. I would still like to find another connector to use. Haven't done my research on that as of yet. Also might employ Jep's idea of getting two separate connectors that will fit both ends and attach them to the ports and lines.
Also the "Amazing Goop Automotive Contact Adhesive" suggested by Phil got delivered yesterday, so the lines will stay in there "forever"......lol

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/8fc43c1f-8c7c-4e5b-983c-95df4e7478b1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/8fc43c1f-8c7c-4e5b-983c-95df4e7478b1.jpg.html)

[Tripler]

Hey Tom . Does that amazing goop get good and hard when it cures ? I need to secure my signal lights to the ferring of my motorcycle as the screw mounts have become brittle and broke . Sorry also for hijacking your thread but I saw that goop and had to ask .
Thanks
Mike

Sent from my LG-H831 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Tripler]

PS . If your coming to BG I will try to remember to bring some weather proof plastic ties . Don't buy a whole pack if you just need 1 or 2 . I have a few of different sizes and will pack a few ...
Mike

Sent from my LG-H831 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Hey Tom . Does that amazing goop get good and hard when it cures ? I need to secure my signal lights to the ferring of my motorcycle as the screw mounts have become brittle and broke . Sorry also for hijacking your thread but I saw that goop and had to ask .
Thanks
Mike

Sent from my LG-H831 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

Hi Mike,
I cannot answer the question about the Goop, because I don't know....lol
Phil would be the one to answer that for you. He has used it before...
Lol, no worries about hijack, any info shared is always welcomed....


PS . If your coming to BG I will try to remember to bring some weather proof plastic ties . Don't buy a whole pack if you just need 1 or 2 . I have a few of different sizes and will pack a few ...
Mike

Sent from my LG-H831 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

Thanks for the thought, but I won't be at BG this year. I may not even need the weather proof ties, as you will see below....thanks again....:thumbsup:

[Roadster]

Some new connector info.....
Went to the auto store in the "Help" section as per Jep's suggestion about looking for two individual connectors instead of one. Well his suggestion paid off, as I found a vacuum elbow that fits perfect, IMO. They only had one, so I will try another auto store tomorrow.
My main question was whether to Goop or not to Goop???
After finding this elbow and the way that it fit, I am probably not going to use the original connector. Now if I couldn't find anything, then using Goop would have been the solution...
This elbow fits perfect and you have to twist it side-to-side to pull it off, that's how good of a fit it is. The one end fits on the solenoid completely and the other end holds the plenum and canister lines very tight. The only thing I might do is cut down the elbow to the lines, but I may not have to.
I can almost guarantee that the plenum line (at the solenoid "original" connector) which gives so many trouble on plenum installation with coming undone could and will be a thing of the past.
Although the original connector is thicker, one of the holes has become elongated and therefore would need the Goop as Phil suggested...

For $2.99, you can't beat it...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170510_203619.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170510_203619.jpg.html)
the new and the original....just need one more...notice the RS hole on the original, it is slightly elongated as mentioned. The line actually slides in and out of that hole. This is where the Goop would solve that problem with the original connector, if yours is like mine...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170510_203710.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170510_203710.jpg.html)
here you can see one end installed onto the plenum line...see how the new elbow expands, the plenum line is not going anywhere....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170510_204100.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170510_204100.jpg.html)
connected to the solenoid, a good tight complete fit....IMO, this is the way to go.....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170510_204257.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170510_204257.jpg.html)

[carter200]

Hey Tom . Does that amazing goop get good and hard when it cures ? I need to secure my signal lights to the ferring of my motorcycle as the screw mounts have become brittle and broke . Sorry also for hijacking your thread but I saw that goop and had to ask .
Thanks
Mike

Sent from my LG-H831 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

Mike,
Liquid Nail is a great product for what you need. :cheers:

[Tripler]

Alrighty then . Thanks carter . Where do I buy liquid nail. I have never heard of it but if its like a silicone and gets hard to glue and hold plastic bits together then it sounds like what I need .
Thanks
Mike

Sent from my LG-H831 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[carter200]

Alrighty then . Thanks carter . Where do I buy liquid nail. I have never heard of it but if its like a silicone and gets hard to glue and hold plastic bits together then it sounds like what I need .
Thanks
Mike

Sent from my LG-H831 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

Mike,
Lowes, Home depot, Walmart. You can buy in a squeeze tube or in a cylinder tube to use with the calking gun tool. just put a little on, tape over the item to hold it till the stuff sets and then it's on, big time. I swear by the stuff for mounting pictures to bricks and other tough mounting jobs.

Did not mean to hi-jack........;)

[carter200]

Tom,
You have an email coming your way.......:dancing

[Roadster]

Tom,
You have an email coming your way.......:dancing

Carter, email replied too.....looks great.....:thumbsup::thumbsup:

[Roadster]

Think I cornered the market on these....lol
PepBoys has the best "Help" section IMO. They have way more of a selection than AutoZone and Advance Auto. Ended up going to three PepBoys to get the rest of the connectors.
Did a cut on two and they fit perfect. There is also some flexibility with these connectors in that the attaching tubes can move to accommodate their final attachment.
For anyone that will have the need to address the original connector in the future, IMO these vacuum tube connectors should work just fine...

I own the market on these....;)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170512_161739.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170512_161739.jpg.html)
the cut...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170512_164031.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170512_164031.jpg.html)
fitting good...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170512_164330.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170512_164330.jpg.html)
lines fit very tight & snug....no reason to come loose....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170512_164906.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170512_164906.jpg.html)

[Jagdpanzer]

Looks better than OEM
Thanks for sharing

[Roadster]

Looks better than OEM
Thanks for sharing

Thanks Phil....yes it is an OEM alternative.....lol
The only thing that I have concern about is how well these will hold up with the engine heat. As the original connector is thicker in the elbow and again the "new" ones are more pliable, which is not a bad thing...
I guess I'll find out in time!!! lol
I could spend a lot of time under here cleaning everything, but if I do that I won't be driving the Z soon.....just cleaning what I can get to:)....

I also changed out the vacuum reservoir. I have a few NOS replacements, so I thought why not change it out....while I'm in here...

reservoir removed....area needs a clean-up...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170512_172136.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170512_172136.jpg.html)
cleaned and looking better than before....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170512_173332.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170512_173332.jpg.html)
new unit in.....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170512_173628.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170512_173628.jpg.html)

[carter200]

Carter, email replied too.....looks great.....:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Send me a pic when installed......;)

[1971 Judge]

I imagine that everyone else is having the same problem with the forum. Don't know what I did, but I may be able to post......lol




Yun,
I found the problem apparently the smoke test was correct. I don't think I have an intermittent vacuum leak, rather it is indeed the primary blade. The TB bypass may be an option for me in the future...I will probably need your expertize for that mod as I know you have something different that you do from reading previous threads.

Did the light test recommended by G8nightman (George) with a flashlight shining through the throttle body blades. I can tell you when you turn out the lights in the garage, it gets dark real quick!!!:sign10:
But the results are in and correct. When shinning the light through each secondary blade, there is no light what-so-ever coming through. When holding the light up to the primary blade from the back, you can see a good amount of light and also see how far the blade is open. I would venture to say that is my idle problem, no doubt.
Thanks George for the tip and btw, your PM box was fill as of early this AM.
Here are the pics....
light through the primary blade...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170428_201249.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170428_201249.jpg.html)
light turned off...see what I mean about it being dark.....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170428_201303.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170428_201303.jpg.html)
flashlight back on....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170428_201255.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170428_201255.jpg.html)

Now I have to decide and figure out the correct way to accomplish the task. I am not touching the secondary blades, except for a light clean up...hmmmm
maybe not!!!
Have to determine if both the min air adjustment procedure from Dominic and the application of the dry lube will correct the problem. Or just try to adjust the idle stop screw as it is in its present state, and also add the dry lube to help seal the perimeter of the primary blade.

Also looks like I need to sand the TB as some of the finish has cracked off and the top is bubbled, so it needs a refinish. Just might attempt to do it all in the engine compartment and not remove the throttle cable at all.




Yes, for sure....that is where the first batch came from....:)

Roadster - I just purchased a '90 ZR-1 and would like t learn more about the light test by George; can you please share the link? Appreciate your help!

[mgbrv8]

Hey Tom

I know I'm late to the game but here is some pics of my plenum pull and some, I hope its helpful

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10201021415884459.2217036.1439230280&type=1&l=8f46fa4533

Dave:salute:

[Roadster]

Roadster - I just purchased a '90 ZR-1 and would like t learn more about the light test by George; can you please share the link? Appreciate your help!

Congrats again on your purchase and welcome....
There isn't really any link for the test, George told me of a procedure using a flashlight to help determine if your primary and secondary blades are fully closed. All I did was turn out the lights, so that you have complete darkness and shine the flashlight through the front and back of each blade. Now as I have found out, this is more of a test for the secondary blades as opposed to the primary blade. Reason being as was mentioned to me, is that the primary blade does not close completely, so there will be light that does shine through on that blade.
Dominic has a procedure to check out the primary blade by using a thin piece of paper and see how much resistance you have pulling it through the bottom of the primary blade when in the closed position. It should pull through with resistance.
Just to be clear, at this point I am not sure or exactly know what is the cause of my idle issue. I will have to wait until everything is back together and even then I may not know the actual cause because I am making adjustments and checking everything out under the plenum, and the TB. If it still persists after, I would definitely lean towards the TB.
Hope this helps.....

Hey Tom

I know I'm late to the game but here is some pics of my plenum pull and some, I hope its helpful

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10201021415884459.2217036.1439230280&type=1&l=8f46fa4533

Dave:salute:

Thanks Dave, I have already checked out your FB page a few times ...:) and will continue to do so during the reassembly. Lots of good pics and good tips from them...
Thanks for recommending your page......:D:thumbsup:

[Roadster]

Before I continue on today's events, this is what I received in the mail today, my first birthday gift to myself a day before.....:-D

Carter did and always does an outstanding job....thank you sir!!!

Now if I can only get my old cover off my TB.....:eek:

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170515_192640.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170515_192640.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

Doing double duty today, working on the heater box on the 74 and the TB for the ZR-1. Thought I had paint stripper out at the 74 as Phil suggested, but not so....also am having a hard time removing the TB cover. It feels like it is cemented in.....lol I don't think its been apart in 23 years....lol

in the following pics, you can see the buildup after all these years, really needs a good cleaning. I know I am going against some of the info posted on TB's from members about leaving blade surfaces untouched, etc. And then some members suggest a good cleaning. I am going with a good cleaning and I have already removed most of the "dag". My reasoning is that if this was a replacement NOS unit, it might not have the "dag" on it.
So its like starting from scratch. I might be right, or I might be wrong. Will have to wait and see how everything turns out!!!
check out the throttle shaft and the dirt on it....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170515_125719.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170515_125719.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170515_125710.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170515_125710.jpg.html)
rear of the TB...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170515_125824.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170515_125824.jpg.html)
more dirt and you can notice the wear mark on the actuator cam follower. it's only a slight wear, so I think it can be smoothed out nicely...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170515_165049.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170515_165049.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170515_165147.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170515_165147.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

preliminary cleaning....getting there......
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170515_215145.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170515_215145.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170515_215204.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170515_215204.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170515_215225.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170515_215225.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170515_215254.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170515_215254.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170515_215413.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170515_215413.jpg.html)

[carter200]

Before I continue on today's events, this is what I received in the mail today, my first birthday gift to myself a day before.....:-D

Carter did and always does an outstanding job....thank you sir!!!

Now if I can only get my old cover off my TB.....:eek:

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170515_192640.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170515_192640.jpg.html)

Glad you like it. Was fun trying to fit what you needed in the space provided. I like it and glad you do to👍

[Roadster]

Just posted the following on my Poll thread. Reposting here for anyone interested....

Just received a NOS EVAP connector assembly today. As you will notice in the pics, there is a black plastic tie around the connector. And the plastic "lines" fit in the connector very tight. There is even one spot where the "tube" seems to be dented, maybe from when the installer was inserting the tube into the connector...JMO
So IMO this seems to confirm that there was a plastic tie installed from MM when the engine was assembled. Again, JMO.....FWIW...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170518_151223.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170518_151223.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170518_151247.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170518_151247.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170518_151253.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170518_151253.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

FYI if interested, the spark plug wires on the RS of the engine,
#2 #4 #6 and #8 plugs wires have the one large 4 slot wire separator attached at the rear of the engine. Then there are supposed to be 3 more additional wire separators, one with 4 slots to hold all the wires and 2 more with 3 slots before the wires go onto the plugs. On my RS, I am missing 2 of the 3 slot wire separators. I don't know if these are even available anymore...
Also the large separator on the rear of the engine should have the wires in the following order. Top #2, then #4, then #6 and then #8 on the bottom. There is also conduit on #6 and #8 plug wires in that area. Then the 4 slot separator that is next in line should have #2 on the right top, #4 on the left top, #6 on the right bottom and #8 on the left bottom.
I know I have a lot of time on my hands.....lol

Also #8 plug wire is now replaced...

the rear wire separator...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170518_151342.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170518_151342.jpg.html)
the next 4 slot wire connector...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170518_151348.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170518_151348.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

LS plug wires #1 #3 #5 and #7 are routed the same as the RS with the same separators. I am also missing 2 of the 3 wire slot separators on this side...
Large rear 4 slot separator....Top #1, then #3, then #5, and #7. #5 & #7 should both have the conduit on them, but my #5 is missing that conduit. Easily replaced.
The next 4 slot separated again is similar to the RS, with #1 top left, #3 top right, #5 lower left and #7 lower right.
For someone replacing or wanting to get their wires in the correct orientation, this is the result of my research....FWIW....

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170518_160413.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170518_160413.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170518_160423.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170518_160423.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

This is what happens when your retired....lol you start thinking!!!!
Prepped and painted one of the water outlet pipes with the paint that has been suggested by Cliff. Not sure if that is the shade I would like to have, although it is growing on me.
Compared it with the air horn that I repainted recently with the "correct" shade of paint from Jerrys. And yes you can see a difference. Since we'll be away for a few days, it will give me time to think about which way to go!!!
Overall I am very happy with how the one pipe turned out. I may even experiment and put a coat of Jerrys paint over Cliffs and see what I come out with. Decisions, decisions, decisions.....lol

my open unscientific paint booth...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170519_093050.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170519_093050.jpg.html)
very light coats...good results...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170519_094905.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170519_094905.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170519_094851.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170519_094851.jpg.html)
the difference between the two pipes....painted and untouched factory...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170519_094820.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170519_094820.jpg.html)
difference between the painted pipe and the recently painted air horn...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170519_095506.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170519_095506.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

Back into the booth again, this time with the RS outlet pipe. The more I look at this shade, the more I like it...the plenum may get this shade after all and then change the color of the air horn.......:rolleyes::eek:

in the booth...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170519_102353.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170519_102353.jpg.html)
topside...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170519_103628.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170519_103628.jpg.html)
finished part...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170519_103951.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170519_103951.jpg.html)

[S.hafsmo]

The lighter color looks quite nice. It'd probably make the LT5 "pop" a bit more than the oem color.

[Roadster]

The lighter color looks quite nice. It'd probably make the LT5 "pop" a bit more than the oem color.

Thanks, I think you may be right.....:) especially with the SS bolts....:-D

Both pipes complete...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170519_111243.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170519_111243.jpg.html)

[S.hafsmo]

Do you have a clear coat on top?

[Roadster]

Do you have a clear coat on top?

No I do not and from what I have read, IIRC is not to use a clear coat, as it will turn yellow over time due to the engine heat...
This is the high temp heat paint that Cliff has used...it gives a very good finish as you have commented on and can see in the pics...I am very satisfied with the results...

A side note, I did not even do a "heavy" color coat as I have done in the past. IMO it was not needed to get the achieved results today...

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170519_113234.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170519_113234.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

Back home from the shore, although not great weather, still good to get away....
Also would like to wish everyone a Happy Memorial Day, and to be thankful for everyone in the Armed Services, past, present and future. For without Them, our Freedom would be non-existent...:usa:

Time to get back to work, just finished painting the plenum in the open paint booth....:eek:
Took awhile for prep, used Clorox wipes (they are without bleach) and do a great job of removing grease on aluminum as mentioned before. After a number of wipe downs, I then used the Mineral Spirits for a few more additional wipe downs to make sure the surface was as clean as could be....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170527_123405.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170527_123405.jpg.html)
before....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170527_103107.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170527_103107.jpg.html)
one of my famous tape jobs....lol
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170527_114830.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170527_114830.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170527_114821.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170527_114821.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

first coat...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170527_115244.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170527_115244.jpg.html)
followed the same technique used on the coolant pipes, light even sprays with drying time in between, and no heavy color coat!!!
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170527_120922.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170527_120922.jpg.html)
the finished product...I think it came out decent...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170527_120931.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170527_120931.jpg.html)
I kind of like the lettering painted silver, I may just leave it this way....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170527_121201.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170527_121201.jpg.html)

[S.hafsmo]

Looks great! Curious to see it back on the car.

[Roadster]

Looks great! Curious to see it back on the car.

Thanks....so am I!!!:)

Decided to replace a PCV hose while I am in there...although the hoses are very hard, IMO it is not necessary to change them out just to change them...unless there is vivid deterioration or a split in the hose itself. Again, this is JMO, after taking off the RS hose and cutting it open, it is still very pliable on the inside and showed no signs of age. And of course with the hose off of the vehicle, the outside does not feel as hard as when on the vehicle.
And the advice given to me before was to leave them alone, but I was curious to see if any type of debris was inside of the hose, there wasn't any...
I only replaced the RS and am leaving the LS in place.
For those doing a plenum pull for the first time, this is just my findings. Others may have different opinions. And this was again on my vehicle, yours may vary...

"original" hose from what I could tell...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170527_151043.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170527_151043.jpg.html)
a little crud going on in the area...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170527_161533.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170527_161533.jpg.html)
cleaned and ready for install...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170527_162623.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170527_162623.jpg.html)
new hose installed....a few more things and I'll be ready to install the plenum...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170527_171032.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170527_171032.jpg.html)

[carter200]

Very nice job!!

[mgbrv8]

Excellent work

Dave

[Roadster]

Very nice job!!

Excellent work

Dave

Thank you, thank you....:)
Was even tempted to take the car out of service for a longer period of time to do a really thorough cleaning, but more anxious to get it back together soon, miss driving the Z. Besides the 74 is also keeping me busy...
So just cleaning up as best as I can...
Still thinking about what to do with the plenum numbers and letters, other than painting them black. Right now staying silver is my choice.

[Dynomite]

Still thinking about what to do with the plenum numbers and letters, other than painting them black. Right now staying silver is my choice.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite15/d3d1883a-7ee7-44e2-82c6-e329b460408c.jpg
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite10/1e0bbbfc-aa25-449b-aba1-8593318b9c00.jpg
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/A%20Corvette%20LT5%2090/37cdb647-2dda-449e-8d0d-57905f95ecfd.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/A%20Corvette%20LT5%2090/8e46b8a0-fd42-44c0-b89b-e3e8f15bab7f.jpg

[Roadster]

Giving me ideas Cliff....thought about the strip down the center. Don't even want to think about removing the cam covers this season, too much going on, especially with the 74.
I know there maybe different techniques for painting the numbers and letters, how did you paint them? I know someone mentioned using an artist brush. I also remember reading how MM painted them, but forgot what their procedure was, must be the age....:)

Your parts always look good, great job as usual...:thumbsup:


Side note, does anyone have a suggestion on how to remove the throttle plate cover? I really don't want to end up destroying the TB...lol, but this plate is really stuck on there.....will be tomorrow's project among other things...

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Keep up the great work and thanks for taking time to document it!!! Awesome!!


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[Dynomite]

Giving me ideas Cliff....thought about the strip down the center. Don't even want to think about removing the cam covers this season, too much going on, especially with the 74.
I know there maybe different techniques for painting the numbers and letters, how did you paint them? I know someone mentioned using an artist brush. I also remember reading how MM painted them, but forgot what their procedure was, must be the age....:)

Your parts always look good, great job as usual...:thumbsup:


Side note, does anyone have a suggestion on how to remove the throttle plate cover? I really don't want to end up destroying the TB...lol, but this plate is really stuck on there.....will be tomorrow's project among other things...

I used a Cue Tip (I think I broke the cotton tip off and used the stick end) but an artists brush might be easier :p

If you insert the original screws into several holes of the TB Cover Plate but do not thread them you can tilt the screws and create considerable uplift in the TB Plate Cover. You might try tilting the screws at several angles.

Or.....use an allen wrench of the size of the holes in the TB Cover Plate which if fits relatively tight would give you even more leverage. Just do not insert the allen wrench into the threaded area of the TB.

Do not try to wedge with a flat head screw driver between the TB Plate Cover and TB as that will just mess up the TB.

[Roadster]

Keep up the great work and thanks for taking time to document it!!! Awesome!!

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Thanks Craig, appreciated... how is everything on your end?


I used a Cue Tip (I think I broke the cotton tip off and used the stick end) but an artists brush might be easier :p

If you insert the original screws into several holes of the TB Cover Plate but do not thread them you can tilt the screws and create considerable uplift in the TB Plate Cover. You might try tilting the screws at several angles.

Do not try to wedge with a flat head screw driver between the TB Plate Cover and TB as that will just mess up the TB.

Thanks for the tips, yes the artist brush maybe the way to go.
Will also try the screw method. I was also thinking about using one of the small suction cups I have, that might also work.
Lol, I first tried with a small tip screw driver and saw that wasn't going anywhere. No damage done...

If all else fails, there is always the hammer and chisel method....then I could have a very "custom" TB...:)

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Thanks Craig, appreciated... how is everything on your end?

You're welcome. Thanks for checking Tom! All is going well, but have not touched the Z in a few weeks. I have been riding the Harley with all the events here so a bit preoccupied, but have not forgotten it. House hunting too so been a bit busy. I found a home I'm interested in, but can't have a real lift so thinking seriously about Quick Jack like you. Best wishes.

[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

You're welcome. Thanks for checking Tom! All is going well, but have not touched the Z in a few weeks. I have been riding the Harley with all the events here so a bit preoccupied, but have not forgotten it. House hunting too so been a bit busy. I found a home I'm interested in, but can't have a real lift so thinking seriously about Quick Jack like you. Best wishes.
Hi All I have my car in bits and over Christmas I refinished the top of the engine I used base coat clear coat to do the job the letters are base coat over clear and recleared coated again here is the finished photos and a before and after of the air intake https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170528/daef76c11308556b380c3a3e0de3e57f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170528/799491bfed3932987d87f5b00911fd55.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170528/4d43c6a1a2cd208377c848abfa6f9b07.jpg

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[Roadster]

You're welcome. Thanks for checking Tom! All is going well, but have not touched the Z in a few weeks. I have been riding the Harley with all the events here so a bit preoccupied, but have not forgotten it. House hunting too so been a bit busy. I found a home I'm interested in, but can't have a real lift so thinking seriously about Quick Jack like you. Best wishes.

Craig, sounds like you are enjoying yourself with both the events and your house hunting. The 4 post lift would fit in my garage, but out of my price range. Although it would give me room for a 3rd vehicle, (which I will need), the Quickjacks seems to be the practical move for me at this time. I think it will work out just fine...
Best wishes to you also, stay safe and hoping that house you are interested in works out for you...:saluting:


Hi All I have my car in bits and over Christmas I refinished the top of the engine I used base coat clear coat to do the job the letters are base coat over clear

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Welcome, looks like you are doing a fantastic job, your parts look great. The only thing you should be aware of is using the clear coat. Reason being is that other members have stated that it will turn yellowish as time goes by from the heat of the engine. This is just a FYI, as I have no experience with using clear coat on the engine parts.
I would like to do the cam covers, but will have to wait....
What method did you use to paint the numbers and letters? So far we have some that use a stick end of a q-tip and others who have used an artist brush. If I do paint them, now would be the ideal time to do so, since the plenum is off. I still like the all silver look. But that can change real quick...lol

[Roadster]

Not doing too much today, checked out some of the plenum hose lines, and found some were a little crusty on one end. The 5/16" hoses still look in good shape, so a simple cleanup and dry is in order. The one hose appears to be molded, but I imagine that over time it took its shape from the heat where it resides...

one end...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170528_150155.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170528_150155.jpg.html)
the other end...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170528_150156.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170528_150156.jpg.html)
both hoses cleaned...maybe a little Back to Black is in order...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170528_150649.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170528_150649.jpg.html)
GM part # 5/16 GM6165M...I imagine that this is an original hose from the factory, or could it be a replacement hose at one time???...:dontknow:
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170528_150658.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170528_150658.jpg.html)

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Craig, sounds like you are enjoying yourself with both the events and your house hunting. The 4 post lift would fit in my garage, but out of my price range. Although it would give me room for a 3rd vehicle, (which I will need), the Quickjacks seems to be the practical move for me at this time. I think it will work out just fine...

Best wishes to you also, stay safe and hoping that house you are interested in works out for you...:saluting:






Thanks for your thoughts Tom. I understand we all have difficult choices to make for our hobbies. We love the house and neighborhood, but not a real garage to me.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170529/c36655e24919d42ceddde48d7a709f3e.jpg

As you can see I can't lift high enough to do serious work in this house. Fortunately I have access to military base auto hobby shops here with lifts so might have to compromise. Dude, the Quick Jacks cost $750 to ship here. I might have to pass.


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[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

Hi Craig my ZR-1 came from Japan in 2013- 2014 I have no history apart from it was first registered in Japan in 1992 my ZR-1 is 0308 1990 and was a California vehicle I wonder how or why it came to be in Japan could have been someone in the Military who knows and maybe if you don't take your ZR-1 home it may end up in New Zealand
Regards Glen

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[HAWAIIZR-1]

Hi Craig my ZR-1 came from Japan in 2013- 2014 I have no history apart from it was first registered in Japan in 1992 my ZR-1 is 0308 1990 and was a California vehicle I wonder how or why it came to be in Japan could have been someone in the Military who knows and maybe if you don't take your ZR-1 home it may end up in New Zealand
Regards Glen

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Hello Glen,

I really admire you folks overseas that have these or any foreign cars as I know how difficult resourcing what you need is and the cost related. I was here in 2013-2014 and really curious to know who's car that was and how it ended up in Japan, then New Zealand. Funny you mention it, I have a friend from New Zealand that has lived here for a long time and he is an auto exporter shipping cars here in Japan all over the world. Basically cars over 5 years old are gotten rid of. I'll have to mention to him the next time we meet. I'm pretty sure this Z won't be going back to the US, but I might give it up in about 5 years. There is no market here for our cars. Thanks for sharing.
Craig

[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

Hi Craig my ZR-1 came from Japan in 2013- 2014 I have no history apart from it was first registered in Japan in 1992 my ZR-1 is 0308 1990 and was a California vehicle I wonder how or why it came to be in Japan could have been someone in the Military who knows and maybe if you don't take your ZR-1 home it may end up in New Zealand
Regards Glen

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Hi Tom
When I painted the top of my engine I did it in bass coat clear coat so I paint the silver first then I tried to paint the black with a brush all it did was make gray so I then clear coated over the hole manifold once dry I sanded the whole lot down with 400 sand paper then I masking taped the area of and painted it when dry I sanded the excess paint of then clear coated over the hole manifold once again here is a photos of the job hopefully this makes sense
Regards Glen https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170529/180660931ff9e0d5e20fd02d94c0f872.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170529/f885bc403e1fe5835157e005ecc99d88.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170529/a174a0cfe425f26dfd31e8a887508934.jpg

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[mgbrv8]

Tom I may have miss this in previous comments but what is this anomaly on the surface?

Dave

[Roadster]

Hi Tom
When I painted the top of my engine I did it in bass coat clear coat so I paint the silver first then I tried to paint the black with a brush all it did was make gray so I then clear coated over the hole manifold once dry I sanded the whole lot down with 400 sand paper then I masking taped the area of and painted it when dry I sanded the excess paint of then clear coated over the hole manifold once again here is a photos of the job hopefully this makes sense
Regards Glen

Looking good Glen, thanks for the idea....

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Looking good Glen, thanks for the idea....

Tom I may have miss this in previous comments but what is this anomaly on the surface?

Dave

Dave, I have no clue, as that is Glen's plenum. I also did not take notice until you just pointed that out. Hopefully he will see the post and respond. I would imagine that would need a repair. It's weird as it appears in one pic and not the other. So maybe it was repaired before he put the final finish on the plenum...

[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

Tom I may have miss this in previous comments but what is this anomaly on the surface?

Dave
Hi here is a photo of the area now it's finished https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170529/e97d6415b2d94b6477b8a74006699bb7.jpg


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[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

Hi again I don't remember doing the repair you can see a repair I did on the other side it was a few weeks between the first clear coat and the letters getting done and some how the plenum got a small chip

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[Flyman 27]

Hi All I have my car in bits and over Christmas I refinished the top of the engine I used base coat clear coat to do the job the letters are base coat over clear and recleared coated again here is the finished photos and a before and after of the air intake https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170528/daef76c11308556b380c3a3e0de3e57f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170528/799491bfed3932987d87f5b00911fd55.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170528/4d43c6a1a2cd208377c848abfa6f9b07.jpg

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How did you get that "ZR-1" on your air horn? That is awesome.
Is it hand painted? Decal?

[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

Hi I had a decal made and then painted the red removed the decal sanded and clear coated

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[Flyman 27]

Where did you get the image file? That is really a nice look! Care to share?

[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

I got the original picture of Jerry website and give it to a sign writer and they did the rest

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[Roadster]

Hi I had a decal made and then painted the red removed the decal sanded and clear coated

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Great idea Glen, you do nice work....:D

Coolant pipes on their way to Carter, the engraving will be different!!!
Also trying an experiment with the paint other than spraying, on the IH's and some other areas. It is just a test, don't think it will work out too well, but I had to try. Have to try another coat to see the final result....

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170530_153530.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170530_153530.jpg.html)
on the rough surface it is fine....on the smooth surface, not so good...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170530_153520.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170530_153520.jpg.html)

[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

I did a lot sanding I am very fortunate that I have a good workshop and a lot of equipment

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[Roadster]

After reading all of the threads per Cliff, and the WAZOO suggestions, along with a lengthy conversation with VetteVet (Jep) last night, I have decided to block the TB coolant. It makes sense and even though I live in the NE, I really don't drive the Z during the winter that much, especially with any salt on the road. So it's really no biggie.
That being said, went out this AM to pick up the items needed to complete the job. Although I have a rethread kit, the instructions specifically say it is not to be used to cut new threads. And it even doesn't have the correct size tap anyway. So off to HD, and Lowes with no success except I did pick up a 11/32" drill bit just to be sure. Their tap and die sets, even single 1/8" NPT taps are non existent in these stores.
So off to Fastenal to see what they had. Found the correct tap and T-handle wrench there and the brass plugs needed to do the job. Only problem is the first two items were very expensive....the brass plugs for a bag of 5 were only $2.17, a real bargain. I won't tell you want the other two items cost. Found on ebay that I can get an 80 piece set which includes the
1/8" x 27 NPT tap, for less than 1/2 of what I paid for two tools. So they will be going back for sure.

the brass plugs...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170531_123252.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170531_123252.jpg.html)
the other two expensive items..
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170531_124458.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170531_124458.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170531_124508.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170531_124508.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

one of the ebay set's that has it all...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251971026384?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[Mystic ZR-1]

Harbor Freight has an inexpensive set too.
You've only gotta do a couple holes so this should work...

[Roadster]

Harbor Freight has an inexpensive set too.
You've only gotta do a couple holes so this should work...

Copy that, I should have asked what the price was before I paid....lol
I might just do HF, they are about 20 minutes away, will have to check to make sure they have the 1/8" x 27 NPT tap in their kit before driving there...

[Roadster]

It just gets me that this tap which cost me $26.50 is not even USA made. It is made in China, so I know there are less expensive sets out there and you get what you pay for, but the majority of them are made in China. So is there a difference in the steel???
Could also go the used market like the link below with a USA unit. I don't mind paying for a quality tool, but it seems excessive for what it is....The handle was another $15.81

the used USA unit...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8-27-NPT-1-8-x-27-Pipe-Tap-Machine-High-Speed-Steel-HSS-Greenfield-TRW-Others-/191061723217?hash=item2c7c2a8851:g:alYAAOxy4dNS8ne 3
the one I purchased...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170531_135354.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170531_135354.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

Ok, so I had my rant earlier....:) decided to use what I have and get the job done....or so I thought!!!
Took all of 30 seconds a piece to drill each coolant hole through the IH...just took my time at low speed forward and reverse a few times, went right through...
So the I get my expensive new tools and the tap will not fit into the handle. And that was with me doing a slight pry to open up the clamps. No go.....
soooo back to Fastenal to return those items and got my money back. So I will check around and see what's out there as before. I can wait a few days, as I have plenty to do....
here are a few pics, so far...
getting ready for the operation...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170531_152345.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170531_152345.jpg.html)
success...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170531_153204.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170531_153204.jpg.html)
looking good from this angle...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170531_160707.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170531_160707.jpg.html)
test fit the brass plug, which will fit nicely once I get the hole tapped...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170531_161044.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170531_161044.jpg.html)

[BigJohn]

Harbor Freight has an inexpensive set too.
You've only gotta do a couple holes so this should work...

A sperm donor?

[Roadster]

A sperm donor?

We can always count on you for a good laugh.....:D

[Roadster]

Found a decent tap and die set at Lowes, which had the needed 1/8" x 27 NPT tap. Paid more for the set, but at least I was getting more pieces as opposed to just buying two items. And has been mentioned about watching out for the cheap sets and reading the reviews, this turned out to be a better investment.
95% of the TB coolant block is completed. All that is needed now is to add the Red Loctite to the plug threads and be done with it...

the tap and die set...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170601_114221.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170601_114221.jpg.html)
setup and ready to go...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170601_112018.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170601_112018.jpg.html)
this is a USA made set...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170601_112029.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170601_112029.jpg.html)
LS done...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170601_112047.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170601_112047.jpg.html)
RS getting cleaned...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170601_113757.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170601_113757.jpg.html)
RS is slightly inserted on an angle. thought I had the tap perfectly straight like on the LS, but it is a little off. should not be a problem once the Red Loctite is applied...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170601_114015.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170601_114015.jpg.html)

[BigJohn]

Looks good!

[Roadster]

Looks good!

Thank you sir....:)


Just finished up on the TB coolant plugs. Had some other errands to run earlier, all that is done and so are the plugs.

Now I am not saying or suggesting some of the methods that I used are the correct methods to do, I don't think that I followed Cliff's guidelines as written to the letter, but here it goes....
I ran the tap all the way through the coolant hole, almost to the end of the tap. This way I can tighten down the plug and be below the IH surface without having to file down anything to get the correct height or depth needed.
I also used Loctite #243 Threadlocker, which is the Blue, as opposed to the Red. My reasoning is from my understanding is that the Blue, which is medium strength will do a sufficient job keeping the plug in place even with engine vibration. It will also allow you to remove the plug in the future without using heat, as again from my understanding you would need to use with the Red Loctite.
Now since I ran the tap all the way through, there are a number of threads showing below the surface in the coolant pipe area, which doesn't present any problems.
FYI, a 3/16" Allen wrench fits the 1/8" NPT plug.

LS threads below the IH surface...there seems to be only about 3 actual threads inside the coolant hole, as the material in that area of the IH is not that thick...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170601_162803.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170601_162803.jpg.html)
LS Loctite in...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170601_162819.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170601_162819.jpg.html)
RS threads below the IH surface...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170601_164700_001.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170601_164700_001.jpg.html)
RS Loctite in and is just slightly angled as mentioned earlier. had one slight burr on the top, which was easily corrected. I don't think they will come loose or have any coolant getting up through the plugs.....lol:-D
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170601_164724.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170601_164724.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

Well not the best day today, as I have committed major screw-ups on the plenum.....decided to try one side taping off the surrounding area and then do the other side with the artist brush for the numbers and letters...
Started off ok, but I ended up with a big mess. Corrected that one to an extent, but created an even bigger mess from the prior one.....:redface:
Oh well, no biggie, if I can't fix this one, I will just sand down the entire plenum and start all over again. Its not like I don't have the time, but I just hate when I screw-up....

started off ok, had everything taped...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170602_112034.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170602_112034.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170602_113134.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170602_113134.jpg.html)
was going good....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170602_113417.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170602_113417.jpg.html)
but an imperfection here...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170602_113901.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170602_113901.jpg.html)
turned into a bigger mess here.....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170602_124032.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170602_124032.jpg.html)

I think it's time for some lunch and a moment to reflect and move on....

[S.hafsmo]

Would it be possible to apply vinyl wrapping to the plenum around the letters, and just cut them out with a hobby knife/scalpel?

[Roadster]

Im sure that would be possible, but need to correct the plenum first...I will try the artist brush next.....

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[Roadster]

You know what they say....if a first you don't succeed!!!!
Had my work cut out for me on the plenum. As others have mentioned that the plenum surface is rough, and it is that....
So I am thinking if I just sand that one part down and re spray trying to blend in the area, it may look smoother than the rest of the plenum. So I decide to sand the whole plenum. Using 400 grit as suggested and mixing in with the 320 grit I had, took me a few hours to get it nice and smooth. Although all of the previous new paint did not get sanded away, as you will see in the pics. I am surmising that the rough area's were the high spots on the plenum or at least most of them. I did get a uniformed smoothness over the entire unit which was very acceptable. I was going to wait until tomorrow to paint, but that did not happen. Went into the open paint booth just awhile ago and ended up shooting about 4 total coats. I stayed with my previous methods and did not do a heavy color coat. I did not get over anxious either between coats, left enough drying time, as I did not want to produce any runs, etc.
I think it came out even better than before and that maybe because of the now smoother finish. I may or may not paint the numbers and the letters as I don't want to mess it up again....lol

sanding in process...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170604_201013.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170604_201013.jpg.html)
smooth surface as can be...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170604_201042.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170604_201042.jpg.html)
in the open paint booth...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170604_202425.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170604_202425.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

first coat...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170604_202854.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170604_202854.jpg.html)
second, third and fourth coats...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170604_202857.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170604_202857.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170604_203433.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170604_203433.jpg.html)
so far the final coat...the finished plenum...I don't think it will need anymore coats of paint...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170604_204450.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170604_204450.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170604_204500.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170604_204500.jpg.html)

[S.hafsmo]

Looks great!
But now you'll have to the injector housings and heads to match.

[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

first coat...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170604_202854.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170604_202854.jpg.html)
second, third and fourth coats...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170604_202857.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170604_202857.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170604_203433.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170604_203433.jpg.html)
so far the final coat...the finished plenum...I don't thing it will need anymore coats of paint...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170604_204450.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170604_204450.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170604_204500.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170604_204500.jpg.html)
Hi Tom it's looking good what's sort of paint are you using
Glen

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[Roadster]

Looks great!
But now you'll have to the injector housings and heads to match.

Thanks....:-D
That's what you think!!! lol...

That is for another time, for this season will probably be the two-tone look!!!
I will repaint the air horn that I did a few months ago to match and the TB, once I go over it and get it done will also be painted to match. But the IH's and heads is going to be a much bigger job....:)

[Roadster]

Hi Tom it's looking good what's sort of paint are you using
Glen

Sent from my SM-G930F using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

Thanks Glen, got lucky with the new finish, I am happy with the results...

This is the paint that Cliff has used and recommended....I do like the color...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170519_113234.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170519_113234.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

Another view in a different room and lighting. There are also shadows to contend with, might not be a 100% perfect, but very acceptable to say the least...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170604_212748.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170604_212748.jpg.html)

[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

Another view in a different room and lighting. There are also shadows to contend with, might not be a 100% perfect, but very acceptable to say the least...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170604_212748.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170604_212748.jpg.html)
Tom if you give it some time to dry you could brush the letters in you could use nail polish if I were doing it I would paint a piece of metal the same way you have done the plenum then you can try painting letters I have two engines and when I did my one I practise on the other cam cover also I was using base coat clear coat I don't know if you know about that type of painting system with base coat you have to finish it with clear coat and that seal it the base coat dry very quickly but is not durable so when I tried to paint the letters with a different color it dissolved the original color your paint shouldn't do that once dry I would give it a light sand in the letters
Regards Glen

Sent from my SM-G930F using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Tom if you give it some time to dry you could brush the letters in you could use nail polish if I were doing it I would paint a piece of metal the same way you have done the plenum then you can try painting letters I have two engines and when I did my one I practise on the other cam cover also I was using base coat clear coat I don't know if you know about that type of painting system with base coat you have to finish it with clear coat and that seal it the base coat dry very quickly but is not durable so when I tried to paint the letters with a different color it dissolved the original color your paint shouldn't do that once dry I would give it a light sand in the letters
Regards Glen

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Glen, I will let it dry for a few days before I would attempt to do the letters. That's if I do attempt to do it.....lol
I am not going to use clear, as other owners have advised against it because the heat will eventually discolor the paint. So what's on there now, is it. I will re inspect later this AM to make sure the paint seems "even" over the entire plenum, to determine if I would need just one more coat. Otherwise after it dries completely I may just try one number or letter with the artist brush set and see what happens. I still do like it all silver, and may just leave it that way....

[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

Glen, I will let it dry for a few days before I would attempt to do the letters. That's if I do attempt to do it.....lol
I am not going to use clear, as other owners have advised against it because the heat will eventually discolor the paint. So what's on there now, is it. I will re inspect later this AM to make sure the paint seems "even" over the entire plenum, to determine if I would need just one more coat. Otherwise after it dries completely I may just try one number or letter with the artist brush set and see what happens. I still do like it all silver, and may just leave it that way....
Hi Tom
You can assemble and get the car going then if you wish you can do them later

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[carter200]

Glen, I will let it dry for a few days before I would attempt to do the letters. That's if I do attempt to do it.....lol
I am not going to use clear, as other owners have advised against it because the heat will eventually discolor the paint. So what's on there now, is it. I will re inspect later this AM to make sure the paint seems "even" over the entire plenum, to determine if I would need just one more coat. Otherwise after it dries completely I may just try one number or letter with the artist brush set and see what happens. I still do like it all silver, and may just leave it that way....

Tom,
Looks great! I would clear it but that is me.....

[S.hafsmo]

Thanks....:-D
That's what you think!!! lol...

That is for another time, for this season will probably be the two-tone look!!!
I will repaint the air horn that I did a few months ago to match and the TB, once I go over it and get it done will also be painted to match. But the IH's and heads is going to be a much bigger job....:)

I was at least hoping you would.
My LT5 need a fresh coat of paint quite badly. It has lots of darkened "stains" that cannot be cleaned. You take good pictures and provide useful info, so if you did it first, it would make my job a lot easier. ;)

Are there no clears that won't yellow over time?

[Roadster]

Hi Tom
You can assemble and get the car going then if you wish you can do them later

Sent from my SM-G930F using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

Glen, that is probably what I will do....just have too much going on right now, I have been neglecting the 74 and need to devote 3 days this week to get caught up..still have to put the heater box back together and get installed, along with the long list I still have to do...:)


Tom,
Looks great! I would clear it but that is me.....

Thanks Carter, will have to do some research on high temp clear, and see if there is such a product. But it does look good now the way it is.....:-D


I was at least hoping you would.
My LT5 need a fresh coat of paint quite badly. It has lots of darkened "stains" that cannot be cleaned. You take good pictures and provide useful info, so if you did it first, it would make my job a lot easier. ;)

Are there no clears that won't yellow over time?


I hear you there!!! Mine had some dark stains on it also, but the first time I did the paint I did not sand anything down. I just used mineral spirits and really wiped it clean over and over again. As you can see from the first paint job, it did come out good. But as mentioned above I did sand down the entire plenum this time around. And again, not saying my methods are the end all be all, but they work for me.
Appreciate that you are liking the pics and find the info useful. Thanks...
And anything I can do making your job easier is a plus.....lol
All I can say is that when you do this, just take your time, as it is time consuming to say the least. But the results are well worth it....:D

Will be looking into the clears....

[Roadster]

Did some research into clears today and came up with the following link...

https://www.kbs-coatings.com/DiamondFinish-Clear.html

And made in the :usa:

You my have heard of this company and their products. I read all of the info and reviews of this product and others that have very good to excellent reviews. Also can be spray on aluminum, which is a big plus for us with no adverse results. This one seems to be easier to use and doesn't require to release or mix an activator to spray. Just spray on and your done. It also is available in a satin finish, but I went for the high gloss finish which both are available in spray cans.
As usual the above is JMO and may give you another option if you are thinking about using clear.

This product is also available on Amazon and you get free shipping if you have Prime. It is also available directly from kbs-coatings and other suppliers as well.
Might be something to think about, especially if your undecided.

[carter200]

You have an email...... call me

[Roadster]

You have an email...... call me

Enjoyed our conversation....:D


Also just ordered the Satin Clear Coat Finish, as I would like to keep the look of the plenum the way it turned out. I had already ordered the High Gloss Finish from another source before I changed my mind. Will probably keep that and use it on my 82 factory wheels. They need to be redone in the future.

[Roadster]

Just finished clear coating the plenum. I used the Satin Finish as mentioned. Very happy with the results. I did 4 complete coats on the top and 2 complete coats underneath. When you add in the multiple sprays as you are doing a coat, it probably adds up to 6 or 7 coats, if that makes any sense.

I am also leaning to leaving the number and letters just as they are, I just like the look!!!

Here is the product that I used as listed in the link in a previous post. Satin product on the right. No runs or drips, just light even coats. No heavy coats needed....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170610_134946.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170610_134946.jpg.html)
back in the open paint booth...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170610_124331.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170610_124331.jpg.html)
first coat, doesn't look too much different...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170610_125840.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170610_125840.jpg.html)
second coat...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170610_130056.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170610_130056.jpg.html)
underneath coats...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170610_130516.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170610_130516.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

third coat...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170610_131100.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170610_131100.jpg.html)
fourth coat...appears to have a very slight I mean very slight luster, if that!!!
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170610_132053.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170610_132053.jpg.html)
in the drying room, overall very satisfied with the results...the finish of what I felt also seems to have a smoother feel to it....I may do another coat tomorrow....we shall see...you will notice the difference between the open paint booth (with fluorescent lighting) compared to the drying room with natural light...I like the way it looks in different lighting....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170610_133316.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170610_133316.jpg.html)
another angle in the drying room...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/beba38d7-cc3b-41e9-8e27-412588c17ea1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/beba38d7-cc3b-41e9-8e27-412588c17ea1.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

Happy Fathers Day to all of the Dads out there, enjoy your day!!!:)

Came back from a short vaca with the grandsons down the shore and had some packages waiting for me.

Sent the coolant pipes out to Carter for some enhancements. I had an idea of what I wanted to accomplish and Carter made it happen. Between the two of us collaborating together, the finish product turned out excellent. Thank you Carter, your workmanship and attention to detail is second to none.:handshak:


just need to clear them and they will be ready to go....
the results.....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/85823b6d-6c0f-44b1-acdc-f849ce118543.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/85823b6d-6c0f-44b1-acdc-f849ce118543.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/fdc80fab-2252-4b5f-9e39-2ddca23b2ffb.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/fdc80fab-2252-4b5f-9e39-2ddca23b2ffb.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/088be17c-7b49-4ccf-ac19-5d351995619c.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/088be17c-7b49-4ccf-ac19-5d351995619c.jpg.html)

[Flyman 27]

That looks really good, nice job!

[Roadster]

That looks really good, nice job!

Thanks.....appreciated....:)

[secondchance]

Great job!
Those valves are for coolant bleeding?

[Roadster]

Great job!
Those valves are for coolant bleeding?

Thanks.....:)

Actually they are for the very exclusive LT5 flux capacitor I just installed. It will make time travel possible and faster....can't wait to test it out........lol

Sorry, just had the opportunity to.........

Yes, these are the valves I mentioned to you a few weeks ago for the coolant bleeding. The member who has these already installed has had absolutely zero problems pertaining to any air locks in the coolant system. Of course the plenum and TB is blocked on his LT5 as it will now be on mine. From what he said, it is a breeze to fill and bleed the system. And they are placed at the highest point of the coolant system on the engine. Of course as with any fill, you still need to check the system for a few heat cycles to make sure the system is full.
Not telling you anything new, as you and many already know that. I also have the plug to plug the line from the "T" to the plenum. So I will be ready to go. Still have to work on the TB....and the flux capacitor.....lol

[carter200]

Happy Fathers Day to all of the Dads out there, enjoy your day!!!:)

Came back from a short vaca with the grandsons down the shore and had some packages waiting for me.

Sent the coolant pipes out to Carter for some enhancements. I had an idea of what I wanted to accomplish and Carter made it happen. Between the two of us collaborating together, the finish product turned out excellent. Thank you Carter, your workmanship and attention to detail is second to none.:handshak:


just need to clear them and they will be ready to go....
the results.....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/85823b6d-6c0f-44b1-acdc-f849ce118543.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/85823b6d-6c0f-44b1-acdc-f849ce118543.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/fdc80fab-2252-4b5f-9e39-2ddca23b2ffb.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/fdc80fab-2252-4b5f-9e39-2ddca23b2ffb.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/088be17c-7b49-4ccf-ac19-5d351995619c.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/088be17c-7b49-4ccf-ac19-5d351995619c.jpg.html)

Tom,
Glad you like them and thanks for the kudos...... You did find the other goodies in the package, right?

[Roadster]

Carter, everything was in there, thanks again....

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[Roadster]

Took the valves out of the coolant pipes to do a final paint coat and then clear them. Had one minor correction with the paint to be made, so I re sprayed them both, they came out good. Getting ready for the clear...
Also some valve info if anyone has an interest...
And made some minor clear passes on the plenum as I had one imperfection that really bothered me. You would be hard pressed to find it now...:)

final paint coat...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170619_104904.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170619_104904.jpg.html)
bleeder valve removed...uses a 1/2" wrench to install and a 5/8" wrench to open and close the bleeder....and some rags when bleeding the system...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170619_100932.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170619_100932.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170619_101143.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170619_101143.jpg.html)

back to the open paint booth for more clear...

[Ccmano]

Nice work!

I might have missed it in the thread but where did get the valves and who makes them? They look to be nicer than most.
H

[Roadster]

Nice work!

I might have missed it in the thread but where did get the valves and who makes them? They look to be nicer than most.
H

Thanks.....:)

Purchased from zoro.com they are $22 and change each. very well made...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170619_102759.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170619_102759.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170619_102808.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170619_102808.jpg.html)
clear is done....2 to 4 coats, depending on how you count them....lol
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/a4605335-9238-46cd-8b26-9aeffb3018c3.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/a4605335-9238-46cd-8b26-9aeffb3018c3.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/8bad794f-79de-4710-9269-eff4d2236c4a.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/8bad794f-79de-4710-9269-eff4d2236c4a.jpg.html)

will let them dry for a few hours before reinstalling the bleeder valves with sealer.....getting there!!!

[carter200]

Thanks.....:)

Purchased from zoro.com they are $22 and change each. very well made...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170619_102759.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170619_102759.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170619_102808.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170619_102808.jpg.html)
clear is done....2 to 4 coats, depending on how you count them....lol
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/a4605335-9238-46cd-8b26-9aeffb3018c3.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/a4605335-9238-46cd-8b26-9aeffb3018c3.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/8bad794f-79de-4710-9269-eff4d2236c4a.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/8bad794f-79de-4710-9269-eff4d2236c4a.jpg.html)

will let them dry for a few hours before reinstalling the bleeder valves with sealer.....getting there!!!

Looks great!:dancing

[Roadster]

Looks great!:dancing

Thank you Carter, and a good part of that "Looks great!" came from the work you completed.....:D:icon_thum:icon_thum

[Roadster]

I now have some options with the bolts from seeing them on another member's LT5. I now have both the SS replacement bolts, which I can use or the 12pt ARP bolts shown.....
Let's see, I cam mix and match, or do one side one way and the other another way!!! Either way all of them whichever one, will dress up the engine, at least the top half of the engine this season.....lol:-D

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/d110f558-f2cc-4626-be38-152b6f75a6b3.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/d110f558-f2cc-4626-be38-152b6f75a6b3.jpg.html)

[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

Hi looking good you won't be far from getting it going
Regards Glen Collins

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[Roadster]

Hi looking good you won't be far from getting it going
Regards Glen Collins

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Thanks Glen, still have to work on the TB. Going to try to get that done this week. Still have some minor items to address under the plenum before I can put it back on.
Need to go out to the 74 at least 3 days this week. Have to make progress on that if I want to get it running by the Fall....

[Roadster]

Valves threads sealed and reinstalled....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170619_161610.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170619_161610.jpg.html)
another view....ready to go...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170619_161647.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170619_161647.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

Out at the 74 today, took the TB out with me to see if we could get the cover off. We ended up drilling two holes and used a slide hammer...came right out...
Cleaned up the TB somemore, now to get ready to go over everything, apply new dag, put on new idle set screw, paint the housing and add my new cover plate from Carter. And then hope it all works....lol...lol[emoji1]
Still have more to do before the plenum goes back on...
626562666267

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[Jagdpanzer]

Next time try loosening to screws halfway then us a rubber tipped air gun to blow shop air into one of the coolant bore holes while holding a finger over the other. Works for me every time.

[Roadster]

I will remember that, hopefully there isn't a next time....:)

[Roadster]

Did some work on the TB today. I am really trying to learn and attempt this myself redoing the TB. If it all fails, will deal with that when it happens....
I changed the idle set screw with the hex head bolt. And as you will see in the pics, there is daylight in the primary blade. I know I have to adjust it properly on the engine, but have some questions....
1-is the primary throttle shaft supposed to have side-to-side movement?
2-if it does, would that indicate that the shaft is worn?

I noticed that if I operate the TB by hand and open the primary blade, I can move the blade itself side-to-side by grabbing the end of the shaft, and moving it in and out. Again, would like to know if this is part of normal operation or not. Any info is appreciated.

I know I am going against the grain, but I am going to remove all traces of the existing "dag", (most of it has been done already) and any remaining buildup in the bores. I am then going to reapply the "dag" to the secondary throttle plates per the instructions for curing that came with the substance. Also from previous pics in this thread, it appears at one time or another there was a sufficient amount of something (maybe "dag") that was applied to the primary blade. Depending on the out come, I may apply the "dag" to the primary blade too.

My throttle blades appear to operate normally, in that there is no binding that I can detect when opening and closing the blades. Spring tension feels very strong, and the secondary throttle shaft has no side-to-side movement at all. It's just that the primary blade when it comes of its "retainer" (for lack of the correct word) is the movement that I am concerned about.

Again, thanks for any comments or suggestions...

my unscientific way to make sure the bottom of the bolts are flush, after filing...
the allen head...(which I didn't use)...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170621_161459.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170621_161459.jpg.html)
the hex head...(which I did use)...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170621_161119.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170621_161119.jpg.html)
the true test of straightness....lol
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170621_161936.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170621_161936.jpg.html)
the original idle set screw w/nut...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170621_163733.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170621_163733.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

you can use either an 8mm or 5/16" combo wrench for the install on both the nut and the bolt...I used a fine tip marker to mark where the primary blade was closed with the original idle set screw...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170621_163135.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170621_163135.jpg.html)
new idle set screw being installed...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170621_163924.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170621_163924.jpg.html)
daylight in the primary blade...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170621_164428.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170621_164428.jpg.html)
more daylight when adjusting the screw...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170621_164449.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170621_164449.jpg.html)
less daylight when adjusting the blade in a more closed position...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170621_164715.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170621_164715.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170621_165221.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170621_165221.jpg.html)

[XfireZ51]

"My throttle blades appear to operate normally, in that there is no binding that I can detect when opening and closing the blades."

This may be true when everything is cold, but heat has a way of changing tolerances.

[Roadster]

"My throttle blades appear to operate normally, in that there is no binding that I can detect when opening and closing the blades."

This may be true when everything is cold, but heat has a way of changing tolerances.

I understand what you are saying.....but do you have any thoughts on the side-to-side shaft movement as described above???

[Jagdpanzer]

There should be little if any side to side play with the primary fully closed.

[Roadster]

There should be little if any side to side play with the primary fully closed.

Yes with the primary fully closed there is not any movement at all of the primary blade in the bore. Although the primary shaft can be moved just a touch in that position, which I now am assuming is normal from what you said.
My main concern as mentioned was with the movement with the primary partially opened, which I also received info, that it is not abnormal for it to be that way.

Just doing a CMA before I proceed.....thx....

[Roadster]

Did more with the TB today. I am now ready to apply the " dag" tomorrow. Instead of baking in the oven to cure, you could also let it sit for about 3 days to also cure.
Cleaned the entire TB with Brakleen numerous times. Used paper towels to remove everything, and then a good compressed air dry.
Removed all traces of any "dag" from before. Interesting though that in the primary blade bore the substance was extremely difficult to remove. As mentioned previously, I am under the impression that somewhere along the line, " dag" or something similar was applied there.
It is now cleaned and ready to go to the next phase.
Some pics of earlier today progress....

62886289629062916292

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[Roadster]

6293

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[BigJohn]

Now you have changed the air vortex!

[Roadster]

Yes I changed everything... we'll see what happens when it all goes back together. Its like I have a new TB. If it works, fine...if not, oh well, deal with that if it happens. How else are you going to learn????
Tomorrow is "dag" Friday....lol

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[BigJohn]

Tom, no high-heeled's!

[Roadster]

John, I can always count on you for a good laugh....:-D
Lol, I'm too old for that stuff....
I think your new name should be....Mr. Quip
Just like my wife, she always has great replies.....lol :D

[BigJohn]

You need to get your car together so we can go play.

[Roadster]

I hear you there, hopefully very soon. Should be done before Carlisle....lol
Maybe by the end of next week!!!

[mgbrv8]

Did more with the TB today. I am now ready to apply the " dag" tomorrow. Instead of baking in the oven to cure, you could also let it sit for about 3 days to also cure.
Cleaned the entire TB with Brakleen numerous times. Used paper towels to remove everything, and then a good compressed air dry.
Removed all traces of any "dag" from before. Interesting though that in the primary blade bore the substance was extremely difficult to remove. As mentioned previously, I am under the impression that somewhere along the line, " dag" or something similar was applied there.
It is now cleaned and ready to go to the next phase.
Some pics of earlier today progress....

62886289629062916292

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Good work on the DAG

Dave

[Roadster]

Good work on the DAG

Dave

Thanks Dave

Just applied the dag to the secondary blades a short while ago. To be honest, it's not the neatest looking application. And I am disappointed in the sense that there is still a tad of light that shows through. I am going to speed up the drying process with a hot hair dryer. I may have to reapply in some areas, or I may remove the dag again and start over and be more precise in the application....a learning process for sure!!!

ok, in the next few pics before the dag application you can see how there is light coming through the blades...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170623_105021.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170623_105021.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170623_105037.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170623_105037.jpg.html)
area marked with a fine point marker for dag application...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170623_105633.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170623_105633.jpg.html)
not really satisfied with the outcome...may remove and start over....my OCD kicking in....lol posting both good and not so good results as they happen...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170623_111220.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170623_111220.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170623_112443.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170623_112443.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

Ok, just watched a video on the correct way to apply Dag.... I am thinking that I over applied it and will now remove and start again. Hopefully this time around will turn out fine!!!

[Roadster]

Getting ready for round 2....applied way too much earlier, we'll see how this application goes!!!
all cleaned up again.....lol
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170623_150441.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170623_150441.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170623_150455.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170623_150455.jpg.html)

[Billy Mild]

Where did you get DAG?

[Roadster]

You have a choice of 2 suppliers that I know of, one mentioned in another TB thread and the other by another member....here they are....

http://www.laddresearch.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=dag%20213q

http://www.pontiactripower.com/shop/throttleblade-sealer-dag

or there are other alternatives such as the CRC Brand Dry Moly Lube, also made by other companies as well.....
or...another member has used....

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-5-5-oz-Industrial-Graphite-Dry-Lubricant-8-GS/202597501

[Roadster]

For those who have an interest to apply dag to your TB, here is the video I watched earlier. I was applying it correctly on the edge of the blades, but applied too much in the bore area and on the blade itself.
I will said this, that it does seal extremely well and you will have a hard time opening the blades after it dries. Just follow the instructions either on the video or whatever instructions you received from whatever vendor. I can see where it will keep the blades closed, but the trick is to apply the correct amount so that no light comes through on the secondary blades. You will need to build those areas up during the process.
The dag part of the video comes in around the 4:00 minute mark...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rrb6HJRi5iQ

[Roadster]

Just to give you an idea of what the gap is on my TB with it totally cleaned, here a some pics. Now I know the general rule is to not touch the existing dag on the TB. Well with my cleaning I went over and beyond that rule.....
I reapplied the dag and after very many coatings, I finally sealed one blade inside the bore completely. Again, not the most professional application, but no light is coming through.
Since some other members have used the Dry Moly Lube which I also have, I decided to do the other blade with that....two quick coats is not enough, hardly did anything as far as the buildup needed to seal the blade inside the bore to keep the light from shinning through. That being said, I need to spray more coats on the rim of the blade and inside the bore as well to try and get a good buildup of the lube. Problem is it sprays all over, I may try using a tube and just do light easy sprays to see if I can get the coverage I am looking for.
Also need to buy some more Brakleen for you know what......lol

before next round of dag, notice the light shinning through...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170623_201514.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170623_201514.jpg.html)
the beginning of dag....again...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170623_201955.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170623_201955.jpg.html)
looks messy and it is...but it is sealed...I may clean up the blade some...
there were a lot of coats needed eliminate the light...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170623_204954.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170623_204954.jpg.html)
the dry lube on the RS, a much cleaner look, but may take multiple buildups to achieve the same results. if it works just as good, the Brakleen comes out again and will use the dry lube. Anyway I am almost out of dag....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170623_210351.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170623_210351.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

Today is mostly a continuation of trial & error. Seems like more of my trails are turning into errors......lol It goes that way sometimes.....:dontknow:

Right now my TB secondary blades are "cemented" in the closed position. Part of the instructions for the dag was to leave them in the closed position after application for 24 hours, and then tap on the blades to help get them open and leave them in that position for another 24 hours. What I should have done after applying the dag was to leave them open first and then in the closed position after. I can tell you this, that if you master the technique of applying the dag the correct way, it really seal any leaks. The trick is figuring out the best way to accomplish that task.
Back to the Brakleen and removal process....lol and start over, this time trying out the dry moly lube and figuring out the correct process of applying it.

Since I already replaced #8 spark plug wire, I am determined to see if I can get an actual ohm reading, despite the testing already performed, which resulted in no reading. I have some thoughts and am in the process of doing them now. I tried one procedure and it did allow me to get a reading which was much higher than the other wires. Still within range, but erratic. So we shall see if this idea works.

Painted and cleared the air horn to match the plenum and coolant pipes. So far, so good. Back to the garage to continue on....

inside #8 on the plug side...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170625_131906.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170625_131906.jpg.html)
some of the crud coming out of #8...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170625_132021.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170625_132021.jpg.html)
the air horn which was painted in the last few months....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170625_123727.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170625_123727.jpg.html)
now repainted again...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170625_125445.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170625_125445.jpg.html)
and cleared...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170625_125447.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170625_125447.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170625_132324.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170625_132324.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

Some conclusions from earlier......

1-Brake Kleen is your friend....cleaned the TB up again. What I noticed is that the fluid cleans the dag extremely well with little effort. Sure you need a paper towel or two to really remove any film left over. The Dry Moly Lube however IMO appears to be a "heavier" film and lays evenly because it is a spray. It is more "difficult" to remove regardless of the amount of Brake Kleen used. You need to saturate the paper towels and wiped down the bores and blades to really clean things off.
So the film laid by the dry moly lube will be more effective when enough coats are applied to prevent any air leaks going through the secondary blades, compared to the dag. Again, this is JMO. If I had more dag, I would experiment more on the drying process as mentioned above to determine if that would be the correct procedure to follow.
Also as per instructions with the dag, besides applying to the rim of the blades, you also want to apply (either the dag or the moly lube) to the opposite sides of the blades that open away from the bore. Which would be the front side top half of the secondary blade(s) and the back side bottom half of the blade(s). This way you will have a good buildup of film keeping the blades sealed in the closed position.
I could not achieve this with using the dag, again, you just have to find the right technique using either product....These are just my opinions!!!

2-I proceeded with my idea on #8 plug wire. I did get some results getting an actual ohm reading, where before there wasn't one. The results are still not to my liking and I am trying to see if I can improve the reading even more. If so it may prove what I am thinking to be correct. We shall see!!!

3-Walmart and Staples helped me out.....
Brake Cleaner is $1.94 per can, much less expensive than other stores...
Staples had a sale on their air duster, which comes in handy for quick air needs. My compressor need a redo, so this was a good substitute...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170625_143218.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170625_143218.jpg.html)
and the TB cleaned once again....lol still have some of the blade to clean....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170625_143154.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170625_143154.jpg.html)

[mgbrv8]

Great work. I buy brake clean by the cast when ever there is a sale.That dag sure is a trouble maker. Keep up the good work

Dave

[Roadster]

Great work. I buy brake clean by the cast when ever there is a sale.That dag sure is a trouble maker. Keep up the good work

Dave

Thanks Dave.....:)
Picking up more Brake Clean in the AM....lol

Was trying to think of a way to apply the dry molly lube in an even pattern without getting it all over the TB as I did earlier. I decided that using the tube would be asking for more trouble. So, blue painter's tape to the rescue. With the TB now taped, I can spray normally multiple coats if needed (and they will be needed) lol.... and not have any go onto areas I don't want. I may even tape up part of the bores and see what happens....

Also removed the PCV tubing to give me better access to the IH's. As I intend to mask and just paint them the best that I can. This way they will match the plenum and the coolant outlets. The only main items left to paint would be the cam covers. But I am not ready to take that on at this time, so they will have to wait.....

TB taped and read for the dry molly lube...and PCV valves and tubing now removed for paint...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/0ca63f09-2266-4065-b7c5-dd5ec6a50e31.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/0ca63f09-2266-4065-b7c5-dd5ec6a50e31.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/99e55f16-e977-4706-a077-41a8b836ab25.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/99e55f16-e977-4706-a077-41a8b836ab25.jpg.html)

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Tom,
Curious to know how many times have you said "dag nabbit" during this project? Lol.....


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[Roadster]

Craig,
Too funny....lol I could have said alot more....
The only time I said, "oh sh**" is when the blades were "cemented" closed...lol
I will keep them open today when applying the lube.....lol


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[HAWAIIZR-1]

Craig,
Too funny....lol I could have said alot more....
The only time I said, "oh sh**" is when the blades were "cemented" closed...lol
I will keep them open today when applying the lube.....lol


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You're doing an awesome job with it and documenting. I have cursed more with the ZR-1 than any other car owned, but still love it. Thanks again for sharing and best wishes.


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[Roadster]

You're doing an awesome job with it and documenting. I have cursed more with the ZR-1 than any other car owned, but still love it. Thanks again for sharing and best wishes.


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Thanks Craig, appreciated and best wishes to you also....
How is the house hunt going? You were thinking about that one house, but no garage...IIRC???

Stayed tuned for later today when the fun begins....running errands now, and waiting for more shade in the front to continue....:)
Hopefully get the IH's sprayed with the PCV tubes and the TB coated. Might cover up some of the blades itself to prevent an excessive coating on them.

[Roadster]

Progress being made....LS IH done....
PCV pipes done...

taped and ready to go...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170626_163946.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170626_163946.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170626_164016.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170626_164016.jpg.html)
the painting process....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170626_171209.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170626_171209.jpg.html)
painted and cleared...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170626_172855.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170626_172855.jpg.html)
turned out halfway decent...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170626_173827.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170626_173827.jpg.html)
pipes waiting to be cleared....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170626_173847.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170626_173847.jpg.html)

now on to the RS IH.....:-D

[Roadster]

Cleared and finished....
63036304

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[BigJohn]

Do you think the new finish will last better than original?

[secondchance]

Do you think the new finish will last better than original?

At least it won't get stained all by itself...

[Roadster]

Do you think the new finish will last better than original?

IMO, I don't think it will last as long....we'll have to wait another 23 years to make that determination....lol Don't know if I'll be here that long to see the results.......:)

[Roadster]

Late night tape job to be ready for an early AM spray. The RS IH is more challenging because I had used a foam brush on it before to see how it would turn out. Needless to say, not very well as has been posted previously. So I had to use Mineral Spirits and sand paper to remove as much of the paint as possible. This way I can get an overall smooth appearance like the LS. Once I get this done, I can then start to go over everything once again under the plenum and get ready to start putting parts back together. Anxious to see how it looks then!!!

wiped and sanded as best as its going to get!!!
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170626_185636.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170626_185636.jpg.html)
one less job to do in the AM...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170626_233311.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170626_233311.jpg.html)

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Thanks Craig, appreciated and best wishes to you also....
How is the house hunt going? You were thinking about that one house, but no garage...IIRC???

Stayed tuned for later today when the fun begins....running errands now, and waiting for more shade in the front to continue....:)
Hopefully get the IH's sprayed with the PCV tubes and the TB coated. Might cover up some of the blades itself to prevent an excessive coating on them.

Hey Tom,

I can only hope that my project comes out as nice as yours. Great tips and tricks.

Thanks for asking about house hunting. I decided to cancel on the other home for various reasons. I won't bore you with details on this post, but coincidently I looked a vacant lot today and met with a builder last night. Looking to just build instead so I can at least have a garage for the ZR-1 and Harley and carport for the two daily drivers. Wish me luck......

I have a set of ported injector housings and plenum to start working on. I just have to find the time between house hunting, chores, and touring with the bike and Z. Best wishes and thanks for sharing. :cheers:

[Roadster]

Hey Tom,

I can only hope that my project comes out as nice as yours. Great tips and tricks.

Thanks for asking about house hunting. I decided to cancel on the other home for various reasons. I won't bore you with details on this post, but coincidently I looked a vacant lot today and met with a builder last night. Looking to just build instead so I can at least have a garage for the ZR-1 and Harley and carport for the two daily drivers. Wish me luck......

I have a set of ported injector housings and plenum to start working on. I just have to find the time between house hunting, chores, and touring with the bike and Z. Best wishes and thanks for sharing. :cheers:


Hello Craig,
I can only hope that my project comes out as nice as you think it will...lol
Tough morning for me as I went to paint the RS IH. Did not check the outside temp gauges as I should have before starting to paint. Although it is cool outside, the humidity is @100% right now, not a good time to paint anything. Sprayed the RS and it laid ok until the second coat, then it was downhill from there. Paint was too runny to stick properly. So I stripped it and tried again like a dummy before I realized to check the outside gauges.
Needless to say, off came the paint for the second time....lol Will leave like it is, going out to the 74, and not painting anything out there....heater box install today...

paint almost stripped after my morning disaster....lol
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170627_085339.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170627_085339.jpg.html)

Yes, good luck for sure on the house build. Then you can customize your garage to your specs....will catch up with you in a PM....

Just posting what I go through, if it helps someone down the road, then that is a plus....

Have a good day, or night....:)
(depending on what the time of day it's there now)

[Roadster]

Couldn't leave before trying again....humidity dropped....and the paint went on....may need one more coat then clear and be done.....:)

big improvement.....lol
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170627_104819.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170627_104819.jpg.html)
much more to my liking...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170627_104834.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170627_104834.jpg.html):-D:-D:-D

[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

Hi Tom been enjoying reading about all your hard work lot's of ups and downs lot's of learning very interested to see how it all turns out I will have to assemble my throttle body as well
Regards Glen Collins

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[Roadster]

Hi Tom been enjoying reading about all your hard work lot's of ups and downs lot's of learning very interested to see how it all turns out I will have to assemble my throttle body as well
Regards Glen Collins

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Thanks Glen....appreciated...
If all goes well, I'll put the plenum back on Friday. Still thinking about the TB and how to apply the moly lube evenly as mentioned before. Keep thinking about taping most of the bore area, except where the blades close. And taping most of the blade area seems like it may work...for a tight seal. This way the moly lube won't be sprayed allover the inside of the bores...
If it doesn't, I have plenty of Brake Clean to start over again....lol

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[HAWAIIZR-1]

Hello Craig,
I can only hope that my project comes out as nice as you think it will...lol
Tough morning for me as I went to paint the RS IH. Did not check the outside temp gauges as I should have before starting to paint. Although it is cool outside, the humidity is @100% right now, not a good time to paint anything. Sprayed the RS and it laid ok until the second coat, then it was downhill from there. Paint was too runny to stick properly. So I stripped it and tried again like a dummy before I realized to check the outside gauges.
Needless to say, off came the paint for the second time....lol Will leave like it is, going out to the 74, and not painting anything out there....heater box install today...

paint almost stripped after my morning disaster....lol
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170627_085339.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170627_085339.jpg.html)

Yes, good luck for sure on the house build. Then you can customize your garage to your specs....will catch up with you in a PM....

Just posting what I go through, if it helps someone down the road, then that is a plus....

Have a good day, or night....:)
(depending on what the time of day it's there now)

Hey Tom,
Thanks for your thoughts and the reminder about humidity as I have to consider that when painting too. The lots here are smaller than a lot of folks homes in the US so we'll see. Are you going to the 2018 Gathering? I am going to try and you're one of those people that I just have to meet one day. Take care and best wishes. :saluting:

[KFoster]

Did you have to remove the AC compressor and lines to get the valve cover off the driver's side?


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[Roadster]

Hey Tom,
Thanks for your thoughts and the reminder about humidity as I have to consider that when painting too. The lots here are smaller than a lot of folks homes in the US so we'll see. Are you going to the 2018 Gathering? I am going to try and you're one of those people that I just have to meet one day. Take care and best wishes. :saluting:

Hi Craig,
It would a pleasure to meet you sometime in the future. I am not sure about the Gathering, but will make every effort to attend!!!
It sounds like you can take your time and look or build a house that suits your needs. Best of luck in your search...
Be safe and stay well!!!:Eagle:

Did you have to remove the AC compressor and lines to get the valve cover off the driver's side?

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K, I did not remove the cam covers. They will be staying the factory color for now. IIRC, you would need to move, not remove the AC compressor and also move the lines out of the way for cam cover removal. If I'm wrong with that thought, I'm sure someone will correct me and give you the right info...

[KFoster]

Thanks. Going to remove mine to paint. Intake should arrive at extrude hone today.


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[Roadster]

Thanks. Going to remove mine to paint. Intake should arrive at extrude hone today.


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Sounds good, keep us posted on your progress.....

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[Roadster]

Two plus full coats of clear....turned out halfway decent, very happy with the results. You can also notice that in one of the pics part of the cam cover towards the front is also painted. Reason on that was I did try to foam brush the IH and part of the cam cover as seen in previous posts, but that did not work out. So I sprayed those areas to see what the results might be. Not bad, not to my satisfaction either, so when the time comes the covers and that part obviously will be repainted.

second plus coat of clear...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170628_105853.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170628_105853.jpg.html)
taped removed, notice the front of the cam cover sprayed...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170628_110455.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170628_110455.jpg.html)
getting ready for reassembly, then on to the TB....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170628_110501.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170628_110501.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

Just received another delivery, this time 12pt deep sockets in both 1/4" & 3/8" drive. Reason being as when I was concerned about using the SS torx bolts, especially between the runners on both sides of the plenum, if I would be able to secure them properly. I then had ordered the long extension torx kit to eliminate that problem. But now created another with the change in bolts...
I ordered both drive's in the 12pt, not being sure of the width of the shank. As I had thought the 3/8" is too wide and will not fit between those runners. The 1/4" drive fits perfect with the slightest gap between the runner and the socket. Use with a long extension carefully and you wont touch the sides of the runners.
Good quality sockets at a reasonable price, now added to the tool box....:-D

Got a little bit excited too soon....lol I did not order the correct size socket for the plenum 12pt bolts. I should have measured the heads before ordering, not thinking that the heads (in some cases are larger than the bolt itself) The head of that bolt is a 10mm, even though the bolt is 8mm, just ordered that socket size now in 1/4" drive, so it should fit no problem!!! I still did need the sockets below, as they fit the other 12pt bolts I will be using...

all four sockets in 6mm & 8MM...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170628_124625.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170628_124625.jpg.html)
a better look, now don't have to be concerned about not using the correct socket for the 12pt bolts...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170628_124627.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170628_124627.jpg.html)
the 1/4" drive socket on the left is the one that fits perfect for those inside plenum (but wrong size) 12pt bolts if that's what you decide to use...now waiting for the 1/4" drive 10mm socket...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170628_124700.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170628_124700.jpg.html)

[BigJohn]

Are you sure you want to use them, they look like jewelry!

[Roadster]

Are you sure you want to use them, they look like jewelry!

Lol....maybe I'll just mix & match....:)

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Hi Craig,

It would a pleasure to meet you sometime in the future. I am not sure about the Gathering, but will make every effort to attend!!!

It sounds like you can take your time and look or build a house that suits your needs. Best of luck in your search...

Be safe and stay well!!!:Eagle:...


Thanks Tom! House hunting can be painful and building even more so, but hoping for the best without too much compromises. Take care and best wishes with this project. If I can make the Gathering it will only be Friday night to Sunday.


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[Roadster]

Thanks Tom! House hunting can be painful and building even more so, but hoping for the best without too much compromises. Take care and best wishes with this project. If I can make the Gathering it will only be Friday night to Sunday.


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I hear you there Craig, you always want to make sure you are making the right decision, especially with a house purchase.
My project is lasting longer than planned...lol especially with more than one project in the works....hoping to wrap it up soon...
I would like to make the Gathering in '18, hope it will workout that I can!!!

[Roadster]

Doing bits and pieces the last few days. Had my oldest grandson (13 1/2) help me out on the ZR-1 yesterday. It will be his one day, and he is willing and excited to learn. We pulled on the caps off of the coils and lubed below the tower of the coils and very lightly inside the boot with some white grease so removal will be easier in the future when needed. We also noticed that #7 coil wire did not want to "click" back onto the coil tower. Although I have spares, we did an easy fix with the pliers and squeezed the clamp on the inside of the coil boot from the outside, which resulted in a nice tight attachment. Moving on to the spark plug wire boots, we moved the paper out of the spark plug holes and shot some compressed air into them to remove any dust or debris that may have fallen in there. We also coated the inside of the boots like before and I had him install the spark plug wires onto the spark plugs so he could get a feel of them getting connected.

Also received delivery of my 10mm 12pt deep socket for the plenum 8mm bolts, with the 10mm head. It will be a breeze when installing these between the runners.

Since everything is apart, I was thinking about painting the hose clamps. But after I cleaned them, and since they are SS, I decided to leave them in their natural finish. Soaked them in a solution, and they cleaned up very well. They are USA made and I would assume that they are the original clamps. Another item checked off.

Back out to the garage for some tube painting and possibly some PCV assembly before an early 4th BBQ party later today....

wires all connected and ready to go...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170701_114556.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170701_114556.jpg.html)
the correct socket for the job...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170701_114714.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170701_114714.jpg.html)
my cleaning items for the clamps...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170701_112954.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170701_112954.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170701_113926.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170701_113926.jpg.html)
all SS, USA made...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170701_113248.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170701_113248.jpg.html)
looks like the part #'s and possibly the size...don't even know if these are still being made, I would imagine so, but not sure...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170701_113550.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170701_113550.jpg.html)

[Flyman 27]

When you say that you used "white grease" on the plug wires & connections, did you mean Silicone dielectric grease or lithium White Grease?

[Roadster]

When you say that you used "white grease" on the plug wires & connections, did you mean Silicone dielectric grease or lithium White Grease?

I ended up using White Lithium Grease instead of the dielectric grease. I know the preference is the dielectric grease. No grease is touching the terminals. I just used enough to make removal very easy.

clamps for PCV valves...which are larger and different part and size #'s...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170701_124106.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170701_124106.jpg.html)
new 913 PCV valve installed...on your right in the pic, but really is on the driver's side when installed...http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170701_125942.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170701_125942.jpg.html)
getting together...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170701_130703.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170701_130703.jpg.html)
lines installed...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170701_140133.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170701_140133.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170701_142052.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170701_142052.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

Was getting ready to install the plenum today, but ran into a major dilemma with the plenum itself. Either I'm getting old and can't see as well....lol but there were some spots that I noticed were not completely covered with paint.
So since it has already been cleared and since I am not going to strip it again (this year...lol), it is now in the open paint booth drying as I am trying a touch up spray procedure.
Other than that was moving right along getting everything else ready.

thought I clean up the AC while it is exposed....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170702_124801.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170702_124801.jpg.html)
nothing crazy, but better than before...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170702_130943.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170702_130943.jpg.html)
had everything wiped down and ready to go...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170702_140603.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170702_140603.jpg.html)
until I noticed this....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170702_143002.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170702_143002.jpg.html)
and this...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170702_143004.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170702_143004.jpg.html)
and this too...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170702_143019.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170702_143019.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

Looks like I might get a pass this time....spray touch up appears to have worked. we shall see!!!

all covered now...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170702_151409.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170702_151409.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170702_151435.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170702_151435.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/c46f462b-5f84-4f07-83fa-321ce685e6b8.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/c46f462b-5f84-4f07-83fa-321ce685e6b8.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

Preliminary test fit.....so far so good...

you can really notice the contrast in color between the plenum and cam covers, but that is for another time...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170702_155344_1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170702_155344_1.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170702_155805.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170702_155805.jpg.html)

[BigJohn]

I had my entire engine powder coated twenty years ago and it still looks good!

[Roadster]

I had my entire engine powder coated twenty years ago and it still looks good!

Looking back, I guess that is what I should have done. But wanted to try this out with the paint, and see what happens. If it doesn't work out, there is always next year....lol

connectors connected, hoses attached, gaskets in place and some screws to hold all together until later...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170702_174238.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170702_174238.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170702_174308.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170702_174308.jpg.html)

One thing I will have to do, which I should have done with the plenum off is to cut off the extensions near the coolant pipes, as I think my bleeder valves will be very close. Can always get the dremel out....:)

[secondchance]

If you are talking about coolant elbow attached to the plenum, you can grab it lightly with adjustable wrench and twist it back and forth until it pulls off. Hole can be plugged with metal press on cap. I think it was 3/8" cap. Check the hole diameter. May have been 1/4".

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ADD-ON-252-217-CHROME-STEEL-PLUGS-FOR-3-8-AND-12MM-CAP-SCREWS-PACK-OF-10-/171325509223?epid=1833288350&hash=item27e3cbce67:g:4RQAAMXQeW5TbmWH&vxp=mtr

[Roadster]

If you are talking about coolant elbow attached to the plenum, you can grab it lightly with adjustable wrench and twist it back and forth until it pulls off. Hole can be plugged with metal press on cap. I think it was 3/8" cap. Check the hole diameter. May have been 1/4".

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ADD-ON-252-217-CHROME-STEEL-PLUGS-FOR-3-8-AND-12MM-CAP-SCREWS-PACK-OF-10-/171325509223?epid=1833288350&hash=item27e3cbce67:g:4RQAAMXQeW5TbmWH&vxp=mtr

Yes, that is what I meant. Thanks for the info....the seller is right in DE, so when I order, should have this week...:thumbsup:

[secondchance]

Yes, that is what I meant. Thanks for the info....the seller is right in DE, so when I order, should have this week...:thumbsup:

Save those fittings after removal. They are getting tough to find and best to hold on to them, just in case...

[Roadster]

Save those fittings after removal. They are getting tough to find and best to hold on to them, just in case...

I tried removing one last night, did not want to cooperate.....may have to spray some WD40 to soak in. But that might not work because of the tight fit of these fittings. Have to wait and see how close the bleeders are when I put the coolant pipes back on. It just might make it, if it does I'll just leave them in place and cap them. I even thought about using double gaskets on the pipes to give me just that little bit of extra clearance.

[secondchance]

I tried removing one last night, did not want to cooperate.....may have to spray some WD40 to soak in. But that might not work because of the tight fit of these fittings. Have to wait and see how close the bleeders are when I put the coolant pipes back on. It just might make it, if it does I'll just leave them in place and cap them. I even thought about using double gaskets on the pipes to give me just that little bit of extra clearance.

May be you tried this but... Use a large adjustable wrench and catch both legs of the elbow (diagonally). This way you have positive grab as you rotate.

[Roadster]

May be you tried this but... Use a large adjustable wrench and catch both legs of the elbow (diagonally). This way you have positive grab as you rotate.

I will try that......:thumbsup:


Was ready to install the 12pt SS bolts to the plenum, but wanted to verify using washers with the bolts. That was confirmed, but need SS washers, I ordered no SS. So just ordered the washers I needed, so the install get delayed.
On another note, the 10mm long socket works perfect with a long extension for in between the runners and all of them for that matter. Also a pencil magnet is a huge plus when installing or removing some of these bolts. Makes life easier.....lol

wrong washers, but they look nice....lol
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170703_194842.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170703_194842.jpg.html)
checkout front bolt...and the 10mm socket and extension...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170703_195005.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170703_195005.jpg.html)
pencil magnet for install & removal...a breeze...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170703_195044.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170703_195044.jpg.html)

[Mystic ZR-1]

If the pencil magnet works on the SS bolts, maybe not SS?

"... ferritic stainless steels are generally magnetic while austenitic stainless steels usually are not. A ferritic stainless steel owes its magnetism to two factors: its high concentration of iron and its fundamental structure"