TB removal and then some!!!

[Roadster]

Sometimes you need to take a break from one project and work on the other one....just to mix it up a little bit....so working on the 74 the past few days....installing the heat barrier and more of the front carpet... but today was for the ZR-1... in that both steering knuckles are now completely assembled....so the progress continues....on to the next items....
Pics of the front and rear knuckle assembly for the ZR-1....and fitting of the passenger side carpet on the 74....158791588015881

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[Roadster]

Experimenting between the rain storms this afternoon....decided to repaint parts that I had painted back in 2016...back then I used a satin clear ...this time I am using just the plain clear....liking the finish on the steering knuckles....so I'm thinking these other parts will come out the same....so far so good....[emoji16][emoji16]
Pic #1...resprayed with the bright aluminum Krylon....
Pic #2...sprayed with the plain clear coat....notice the difference between just being painted and then cleared....liking it...for sure...shadows in the pics are due to lighting and not the finished coatings....:):) .1588215883

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[Roadster]

Repainted the coolant pipes back in April....and cleared them today...hard to really see the results with the lighting in the basement... but pic 3 shows the difference between them and the oil filter housing without any clear coat...and for some odd reason the oil filter housing looks really good without the clear coat compared to the darker results on the pipes before I cleared them today....still might clear the housing though... decisions...decisions...lol...159051590615907

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[Roadster]

Plenum operation now in progress....removed everything from underneath...now need to remove the module from the plate....want to be careful doing this...as I don't want to destroy anything....
Also take note on the oil on the tape... #7 runners also have an oil wetness in them...as the plenum was rightside up on the windshield....compared to the other runners which are basically dry...anyone have thoughts on this..???
I also had the end of the throttle body taped for the last 3 years and looks like the "dag" I applied years ago... some of it turned into almost a filmy type substance...will have to clean that up very carefully...as I hope not to have to reclean and reapply the "dag"....we shall see...
And there is the one insert that needs to be removed from the plenum and capped....
Will do another light sanding...painting and then another clear....this time I think I have the right combos of paint and clear to get the results I want to achieve....which are on the coolant pipes...steering knuckles and now the belt tensioner....
Pic #1...the operation in operation...
Pic #2...#7 runners...definitely some oil residue there compared to the other runners....anyone have a clue as to why....
Pic #3...other side basically dry...
Pic #4...this insert has to be removed and plugged....
Pic #5...part #'s...
Pic #6...a little crudy under there...
159121591315914159161591815919

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[Roadster]

Pic #7...still a coating there...but will be cleaned and coated with the products in the next pic....
Pic #8...the cleaners and thermal compound to finish the job....
Pic #9...need to be very careful separating the module from the intake....don't want any problems....
Pic #10....have to reevaluate my "dag" application from years ago...and hopefully everything will be spot on....15920159211592215923

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[Roadster]

Doing another hand sand on the plenum....although I painted it about 5 years ago...wasn't totally satisfied... so may paint in the next few days.... but with the heat and humidity we are having here...might have to put this off...I have sanded and painted this how many times now....[emoji848][emoji23]
In Pic #1... what is the best way to remove this plug or seal it.... in the plenum that is circled...???
Pic #2...another hand sanding event...
Pic #3...all cleaned up...
Pic #4...I know no one will ever see these parts once installed....but they are ready....15979159801598115982

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[Roadster]

Even though my water pump was not leaking and I have other replacement pumps...I decided to send my original to Marc and have it rebuilt...just got it back today and it looks great....IIRC Marc mentioned that there was rust on the impeller and replaced it with a better piece... another piece of the puzzle solved..
Just a little closer to getting it all back together....[emoji16][emoji16].16091

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[Roadster]

Hello everyone....could use some advice and suggestions on removing the lower control arm rear bolt as shown in the pic....I have tried everything with my electric impact which has 1200 ft lbs of torque...it's just that I can't seem to get the correct angle with extensions to keep the socket on the 15mm bolt....even tried from the 18mm nut side....maybe I'm overthinking this too much...and it's a really simple procedure...been really busy with the 74...as we towed it to another friend's garage and now have a full 4 post lift to myself....plans are to tow the 94 there once I get the steering components back on and bring the 74 home....
So any thoughts on the bolt removal is appreciated....
Thanks....[emoji16][emoji16]16708

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[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

Hi I would use a strong arm and socket on the nut with a spanner on the other side of it. If you could get 1200fl lbs on to the bolt it would break the bolt off you are losing the torque in the extension if it's super tight you may need a pipe on the strong arm you may need to remove the spring guard and spring if you can't get on to it.
When you put it back together put the bolt around the other way so you don't have to remove the k brase to get the bolt out

Regards Glen Collins

167101671116712

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[Jagdpanzer]

I'm with Glen. Best done on a two post lift. First remove the shocks, spindle knuckles, spring guards and spring. If done on the floor or four post lift the front end must be jacked quite high to gain sufficient clearance for removing the spring. Glen advise for turning the bolts around is also spot on. Recommend using a spring compressor for safety sake. Otherwise be careful of the spring forces your dealing with.


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[Roadster]

Hi I would use a strong arm and socket on the nut with a spanner on the other side of it. If you could get 1200fl lbs on to the bolt it would break the bolt off you are losing the torque in the extension if it's super tight you may need a pipe on the strong arm you may need to remove the spring guard and spring if you can't get on to it.
When you put it back together put the bolt around the other way so you don't have to remove the k brase to get the bolt out

Regards Glen Collins



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I'm with Glen. Best done on a two post lift. First remove the shocks, spindle knuckles, spring guards and spring. If done on the floor or four post lift the front end must be jacked quite high to gain sufficient clearance for removing the spring. Glen advise for turning the bolts around is also spot on. Recommend using a spring compressor for safety sake. Otherwise be careful of the spring forces your dealing with.


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Hello Glen and Phil.....sorry for the delayed reply...as I have been out at the "Corvette Garage" working on the 74.....which has been keep me busy.... going to get back on the ZR-1 this afternoon and weekend.... I have watched another video where the front spring was not removed to remove the lower control arm.....I think all of the tension is off the spring on the driver's side as everything has been removed....as far as that k brace is....maybe I'm not seeing it correctly....but it doesn't seem like it can be removed....so going to try and remove the inner nut sides of the control arm as opposed to trying to remove the bolt from the outer head side.....we'll see what happens....thanking both of you for the replies and suggestions....very much appreciated.... :):)

[HAWAIIZR-1]

16831


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[1991 Corvette ZR-1]

So what you can do with the lower A arm bolts is remove the nuts then take a ratchet and work the bolt on the loosen direction. While turning it, take a flat blade screw driver and push it under the head of the bolt and pry back towards you. The bolt should slowly come out. Once you have enough space behind it you can get some pliers around the shank and pull against the head of the bolt while still ratcheting the head as well and it should pop out in no time.

Just get the car up on jack stands at the lowest setting and that should be enough height to remove the lower A arm. The springs in the ZR-1 are pretty stiff so it will not curl down too far without any weight on it. The arm will only come down so far even without a spring there due to the design of the craddle.

[Roadster]

16831


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That is great Craig...."And then Some".....:thumbsup::):)

So what you can do with the lower A arm bolts is remove the nuts then take a ratchet and work the bolt on the loosen direction. While turning it, take a flat blade screw driver and push it under the head of the bolt and pry back towards you. The bolt should slowly come out. Once you have enough space behind it you can get some pliers around the shank and pull against the head of the bolt while still ratcheting the head as well and it should pop out in no time.

Just get the car up on jack stands at the lowest setting and that should be enough height to remove the lower A arm. The springs in the ZR-1 are pretty stiff so it will not curl down too far without any weight on it. The arm will only come down so far even without a spring there due to the design of the craddle.

The 94 is on the Quickjacks....so it is high enough......great tips.... will definitely try this.....thanks....:thumbsup::thumbsup::)

[Roadster]

Been really busy lately with the 74 BB...as we're now test fitting the exhaust....but also need to get work done on the ZR-1....so this afternoon and evening I am getting the new rack and pinion ready for install...whenever that time will be...
since I'm using new tie rod ends... there wasn't any reason to disassemble the tie rods off the original rack....besides I needed the total length of the old rack to setup the new one and get as close as I could in the exact length....which I think I accomplished....the old rack measures 57" or 4" 9" from end-to-end and even though the circumstance of the new rod ends might be just a hair difference.... I also have the new rod setup exactly the same...so far so good....I also made sure to the best that I could that the distance from the inner ends of just beyond the rubber boot to the end of the tie rod are as close as they can be from the original rack to the new one....some pics....
Pic #1...original rack on the right... replacement rack on the left...
Pic #2...getting everything in adjustment....strange that on the passenger side of the rack I needed two adjustable wrenches to turn the tie rod. ..
Pic #3...but on the driver's side the tie rod screwed on by hand...
Pic #4...no way I was going to take apart the driver's side to get that rubber clamp cushion off the original and install on the new...
Pic #5...so I cut it to remove....
Pic #6...cleaned up the cushion and ready to install...should be good for another 30 years....
More pics in the next post....
168761687716878168791688016881

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[Roadster]

Pic #7...on the new rack and here's where you can see and tell the difference that the two racks are close in production of each other...but there is slight differences here and there.....that cushion does not fit squarely in that space like on the original rack..(or it could be that the rubber boot is not exactly in the same location as on the original rack)...so in order for the clamp to sit correctly....I have to do a slight mod on the cushion by cutting into the end of the rubber so the clamp will fit correctly....
Pic #8...for those who have followed this thread....you will know that I have repainted the plenum for the umpteenth time....there is one tiny flaw on the top...which I may attempt to correct....and then will clear it to get the same look I have on some of the engine and suspension parts....
Pic #9...test fitting the exhaust on the 74...
Pic #10...view from the rear.... plastic ties work really well to keep the pipes suspended and line up everything...back to work on that next week....16882168831688416885

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[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Tom,
Again, as usual, beautiful work!
Hope you actually plan on driving it again once completed!
Will it be on the field at Carlisle in August?
Stay well and keep HAVING FUN!
:cheers:
Marty

[Roadster]

Tom,
Again, as usual, beautiful work!
Hope you actually plan on driving it again once completed!
Will it be on the field at Carlisle in August?
Stay well and keep HAVING FUN!
:cheers:
Marty

Hello Marty....thanks for the compliment....still more to do on both the 94 and the 74....and yes I am going to drive them....been long overdue....looking forward to making Carlisle this year....
Hope all is well with you....and I am having fun....even with doing 2 projects at the same time.....:):)

[dredgeguy]

Tom,
Come down to Wazoo land this Sunday for our holiday lunch. It is posted in the Mid-Atlantic section. Would be great to see you, been a longtime!

[Roadster]

Tom,
Come down to Wazoo land this Sunday for our holiday lunch. It is posted in the Mid-Atlantic section. Would be great to see you, been a longtime!Hello Charlie....today is Monday and obviously I just saw this....I appreciate the invite...although I would not have been able to make it as one of my Corvette friends developed Covid last week...and I was around him the week before... even though I tested negative with my home kit....I would have not wanted to take the chance to expose anyone else....crazy times for sure...
Still working on the Z as you can see and will be great to see the rest of WAZOO again in the future....it has been a long time....[emoji16][emoji16]

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[Roadster]

I have another question....although I am not or have intentions to get the Z judged....I have cleaned up the upper control arm attachment bolts...it seems like they were painted...so were they painted from the factory or are they supposed to be their natural finish as shown in the pics???
Guess I just can't help myself...cleaning everything I get my hands on...the pics....
Pic #1...one bolt cleaned...one uncleaned....
Pic #2...another view...
Pic #3...cleaned....natural finish...
Pic #4...another view with some of the attaching spacers....all cleaned up...
Pic #5...I'll refer to this as the lower control arm plate... crud for sure on both sides...
Pic #6...the reverse side pictured and entire plate and bolts cleaned and ready for reinstall....
169551695616957169581695916960

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[Jagdpanzer]

Had mine out last year and they were not painted.
Your 94 Z is one of the few I've seen with with aluminum spring protection guards installed. Apparently GM gave up on installing these at the factory for the last two years of production. My 94 was also missing these but was lucky enough to find a NOS set that are on the car now.


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[Roadster]

Had mine out last year and they were not painted.
Your 94 Z is one of the few I've seen with with aluminum spring protection guards installed. Apparently GM gave up on installing these at the factory for the last two years of production. My 94 was also missing these but was lucky enough to find a NOS set that are on the car now.


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You make two owners who have mentioned that they were not painted....so I'm assuming that at one time in the car's history that they were removed for whatever reason and painted on mine.....
As far as the shields go....maybe because mine is a very early production 94 is why they were installed....

[Roadster]

Been working on the 74 lately... but this afternoon decided to give it a try once again to remove the lower control arms on the 94....so finally success.... broke the bolts loose and got the front bolt out....the rear bolt is another story....so if anyone can refresh my memory on the secret to getting that bolt out...it would be greatly appreciated.... I think there was a post on exactly that...but having a hard time finding it....
as you see in the pic it is hitting that part of the underbody....is there something else that needs to be removed....
Thanks for any info....
17215

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[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

Hi Tom you have to remove the K frame or cut the bolt when you put it back in turn it around

Glen

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[Roadster]

Hi Tom you have to remove the K frame or cut the bolt when you put it back in turn it around

Glen

Sent from my SM-G998B using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)Thanks Glen.....how difficult is it to remove the K frame....I just may cut the bolt like you mentioned if removing the K frame is a real PIA....

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[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

Hi Tom it's not hard to remove the K frame just one side at a time two front bolts one engine mount nut two rear maybe three rear

Glen

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[Roadster]

Thanks Glen....I will take a look....[emoji16][emoji16]

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[Roadster]

Back working on the ZR-1 today and checking out the front cross member brace....could use some advice or suggestions on the driver's side brace....as I may be missing something.... I'm at a loss for moving further....as you can see in Pic #1...how do you get to the top 13mm bolt to loosen.... in Pic #2... got the bottom 15mm bolt out and that top one is now loose...and seeing that another bolt that also needs to come out in the top middle of the brace....obviously when I get the braces removed....gives me more access to also cleanup and tighten the oil pan bolts....
Thanks for any info...1724417245

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[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

Hi Tom you can buy Wrenchs like these one long spanner for cracking the locked thread and ratcheting spanner for undoing the bolts when you can't get a socket and strong arm onto it if you need anymore help sing out

Glen 17246

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[WARP TEN]

Hi Tom you can buy Wrenchs like these one long spanner for cracking the locked thread and ratcheting spanner for undoing the bolts when you can't get a socket and strong arm onto it if you need anymore help sing out

Glen 17246

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I'm with Glen. I love my ratcheting box wrenches. You don't need them often but when you do they are the ticket. I think you can also get them with a swivel head. --Bob

[Roadster]

Had some great success this afternoon....removed the leftside brace to get access to the back lower control arm bolt for removal along with the arm itself...went really well... the 14" long 13/15mm combo wrench was key....thanking both Glen and Bob for their suggestions....just have to refresh myself on removing the control arm bushings.....some pics....[emoji16][emoji16]
Pic #1...success...
Pic #2...big time cleaning ahead...
Pic #3...14" combo wrench had the perfect leverage by hand to get the side 13mm bolts undone...
Pic #4...bushings don't look bad...
Pic #5...leftside spring pad...looks pretty good for its age...
Pic #6...now will have access to clean and check the oil pan bolts... I'm sure they will need to be tighten...rightside to do after leftside is done....173291733017331173321733317334

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[phrogs]

Looks more like they are clear zinc coated. Not painted but coated just like yellow zinc parts but these have a white/ashy appearance.

They are not bare metal or they would and will flash rust. Just watch them if you don't coat them with something.



I have another question....although I am not or have intentions to get the Z judged....I have cleaned up the upper control arm attachment bolts...it seems like they were painted...so were they painted from the factory or are they supposed to be their natural finish as shown in the pics???
Guess I just can't help myself...cleaning everything I get my hands on...the pics....
Pic #1...one bolt cleaned...one uncleaned....
Pic #2...another view...
Pic #3...cleaned....natural finish...

[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

Good to see you getting it done Tom the factory bolts are plated a dull grey or black color not sure of the process they use in New Zealand we can get bright zinc gold zinc and black zinc which looks great when done but go's a dark green color after a while dose anyone know the process the factory bolts come with you can get the bolts refinished that what I did with mine
Glen Collins

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[spork2367]

Looks more like they are clear zinc coated. Not painted but coated just like yellow zinc parts but these have a white/ashy appearance.

They are not bare metal or they would and will flash rust. Just watch them if you don't coat them with something.

It's most likely cadmium plated.

[Roadster]

Good to see you getting it done Tom the factory bolts are plated a dull grey or black color not sure of the process they use in New Zealand we can get bright zinc gold zinc and black zinc which looks great when done but go's a dark green color after a while dose anyone know the process the factory bolts come with you can get the bolts refinished that what I did with mine
Glen Collins

Sent from my SM-G998B using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)Thanks Glen....
Pic #1...had the brace bolts soaking all night...noticed that the threads have some type of sealant on them...so cleaning them out and will have to determine what type of sealant to use during reassembly.....
Pic #2...two front 15mm bolts with first cleaning....and will be ready to paint when fully cleaned....
Pic #3...this is the sealant that was embedded in the threads....
Pic #4...13mm side bolts for some odd reason....need to soak more in order to remove the old sealant...
Pic #5...interesting note is that both bolt heads have the same number and letter markings....even though they are different size bolts...I'm sure those markings have a significant meaning for both size bolts....
1733617337173381733917340

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[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

Hi Tom metric bolts are grade 8.8 10.9 12.9 imperial bolts are also grade markings for grades 5 and 8 there are other gradings of bolts but these are the main automotive ones have attached a file gradings so hopefully it works

Glen 17347

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[Roadster]

Appreciate the info on the Metric bolts Glen....always great to learn and understand more anytime....
More progress today....it's amazing how much grease and grime can accumulate in just about every area...especially if you have some type of leak or seepage over the years....case in point....the leftside brace...did an initial cleaning...and will redo and also paint....
Checked out Marc's tech sheet on "Waking up a Sleeping LT5"....with June 2022 close by....it will then be 4 years since the engine has been started....mostly because I have two builds going on at the same time...and I'm not putting 8-10 hours a day to complete....if I did that I would have had both cars up and running long ago....so I ordered a pre-lube engine oiler....so I won't damage the engine when all back together and ready to start....
And thinking about removing the Cam Covers...since I have all this open space in the engine compartment... but I really have to give that some thought....
some pics....
Pic #1...crud buildup over the years...
Pic #2...just a wipedown to get the grease off....
Pic #3...used a SOS pad to clean up even more....take note of the top of the brace in the center where it attaches to the engine mount (I'm assuming)....it appears that any type of moisture can and does get trapped there...as the paint is worn off and also appears that some rust was getting ready to start....
Pic #4...backside view with part#...
Pic #5...inside had big grease buildup as well...cleaned up nicely...
Pic #6...LS brace hardware totally cleaned and ready for paint....

173481734917350173511735217353

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[Roadster]

Pic #7...the Pre-Lube Engine Oiler...
Pic #8...comes with 3 fittings....and one of them is the correct size as per Marc's paper....1735417355

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[Mystic ZR-1]

Where does the fitting for the pre-luber screw in?
Hmm? Could an Accu-Sump be hooked up there, to have the benefit
of pre-oiling on every start up?

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/knowledge_base_articles/view/accusump-oil-accumulators-how-do-they-work-281

[Roadster]

Where does the fitting for the pre-luber screw in?
Hmm? Could an Accu-Sump be hooked up there, to have the benefit
of pre-oiling on every start up?

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/knowledge_base_articles/view/accusump-oil-accumulators-how-do-they-work-281Where the oil pressure sensor screws into...if you use your Z on a consistent basis....I would imagine that there wouldn't be any need for an Accu-Sump.....JMO....

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[Roadster]

Need some info on removing the bolt from the front sway bar bracket that attaches to the LCA....this bolt won't budge either with electric impact or tapping the bolt out with a small sledge....so before I do any damage... does this bolt slide through the bushing sleeve...(which I'm thinking)...or is it threaded through....
thanks for any info....[emoji16][emoji16]17356

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[garyhugo]

If that is the upper stabilizer bar insulator then yes it slides through the sleeve.

[Roadster]

If that is the upper stabilizer bar insulator then yes it slides through the sleeve.That is the lower part of the bracket Gary....attached to the LCA and found out that it also slides out.... thanks...[emoji16][emoji16]

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[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

Get a cheap socket put the head of the bolt in the socket and hammer it once it starts to move you should be able to get it out the rest of the way

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[Roadster]

Back on the ZR-1 this afternoon...
finally got the sway bar bracket removed....did a preliminary cleaning of the LCA and the bracket after a short soak....bracket is in for more soaking...getting there....173811738317384173851738617387

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[Roadster]

Can't tell you the number of times I have stripped...sanded and resprayed and then clear coated the plenum over the last almost 4 years..... I know I could have got it powder coated...but also like the feeling of do as much as I can myself....so after repainting the plenum months ago.... today I finally clear coated this piece once again....may not be perfect... but looks good enough to install...
also the LS sway bar bracket after soaking for a few days in Evapo-Rust....paint literally just wiped off....liking the bare metal finish. .especially in the comparison pics.....may leave as it and just clear coat....[emoji16][emoji16]1739117392173941739517396

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[WARP TEN]

This thread just hit 80 pages--Is this a Forum record? Been a fun thread to follow. --Bob

[Roadster]

Thanks Bob....it has been fun....[emoji16][emoji16]

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[Roadster]

Been extremely busy recently...not totally ZR-1 related...as our "new" Yellow 74 Convertible came home last week...and our Brown 74 Convertible went down to GA for some engine work....which now leaves time to devote fully to the 94....always something going on....[emoji16][emoji16]
Pic #1....still need more cleaning and painting to finish....was thinking about removing the cam covers for painting....but might just tape everything off and paint them on the engine....
Pic #2.....our "new" 74 Convertible is home....while not cosmetically perfect....the L-82 is rebuilt and all new suspension in place....
Pic #3...our 74 LS4 454 loaded and now in GA for some engine work.... no return time frame...so now full concentration for the ZR-1....[emoji16][emoji16]175691757017571

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[HAWAIIZR-1]

Been extremely busy recently...not totally ZR-1 related...as our "new" Yellow 74 Convertible came home last week...and our Brown 74 Convertible went down to GA for some engine work....which now leaves time to devote fully to the 94....always something going on....[emoji16][emoji16]
Pic #1....still need more cleaning and painting to finish....was thinking about removing the cam covers for painting....but might just tape everything off and paint them on the engine....
Pic #2.....our "new" 74 Convertible is home....while not cosmetically perfect....the L-82 is rebuilt and all new suspension in place....
Pic #3...our 74 LS4 454 loaded and now in GA for some engine work.... no return time frame...so now full concentration for the ZR-1....[emoji16][emoji16]175691757017571

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Congrats! With all these cars you have it will always be?..and then SOME! Enjoy!!


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[Roadster]

Received 2 pkgs today from some of our ZR-1 Innovators....
Pkg #1 from Jeff DeBuhr... with his ECM Cover....quality piece....great job...
Pkg #2 from DL Merrill.... with his door ajar switches...quality pieces as well....great job....

Again both parts very well made IMO....[emoji16][emoji16][emoji106][emoji106]

Pic #1....Jeff's ECM Cover...
Pic #2....Dan's door ajar switches...1839018391

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[Roadster]

Hello everyone....its been over a year since I posted here in the Forum....still working on the C3's..... but now also devoting more time to the 94....so getting ready to remove the ball joints from the uppers and lowers....already have the lower control arm bushings out on one lower control arm....still have the other three arms to do...."and then some"....using white vinegar and baking soda to soak and clean parts...which is very inexpensive and getting great results IMO....did the nuts and washers today on the upper arms....definitely a difference....after soaking may need a scrub here and there...to get the desired look....or close to it....also noticed that in the end of the one side of the nuts....there is a plastic insert....I am missing one... the other three are in the nut and seem to be ok....have to check the vendors if such a part is available to reinsert back into the nut....[emoji848]
pics below.....[emoji16][emoji16]

Pic #1...Here are both the top and bottoms of the nuts and washers..cleaned with the vinegar and baking soda solution. ..will paint the nuts and most likely the washers also.....the plastic insert I mentioned in the text is under the yellow semi-circle....one is missing...
anyone know of a vendor that may have these???....TIA....

Pic #2...This is the before.....a noticeable difference for sure after cleaning in the above pic....2010920110

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[dredgeguy]

Good to see you back on Tom. Check with Mark at Mirrock Corvette, send him your pictures. http://www.mirrockcorvette.com/

[Jagdpanzer]

Hi Tom,
Good to hear from you.
The plastic piece is crimped in during manufacture of the nut. Doubt a replacement can be found. Better off replacing the nut with a good one.

[secondchance]

Hi Tom,

Run a google serch for nut with plastic insert and look for correct size.

[staminqia]

I bet Mark at Mirrock will have the nut.

[Roadster]

Good to see you back on Tom. Check with Mark at Mirrock Corvette, send him your pictures. http://www.mirrockcorvette.com/Thanks Charlie....I will do that....was checking ebay....but it seems you would have to buy the entire upper to get those nuts....hopefully Mark has some spares....I need to get my cars back on the road....really miss driving the 94....[emoji16][emoji16]

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[Roadster]

Hi Tom,
Good to hear from you.
The plastic piece is crimped in during manufacture of the nut. Doubt a replacement can be found. Better off replacing the nut with a good one.Thanks Phil....how is everything.... I think I was a little over zealous....lol when I was cleaning them....and probably from using the brush in the threads....one fell out and don't know about the other...[emoji16][emoji16]

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[Roadster]

Hi Tom,

Run a google serch for nut with plastic insert and look for correct size.Hello Yun....good idea...I'm sure they are metrics....I wish the Fastenal stores were still open in my area....but two of them closed a few years ago....someone also mentioned a plumbing suppy....but that might be a long shot....I will try the goggle search....thx....[emoji16][emoji16]

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[Roadster]

I bet Mark at Mirrock will have the nut.Hello staminqia ....I sure hope so.... as I'm about to remove the bushings soon in between working on the 74...redoing the entire AC system... and still have plenty to on the Z.... will call him today.....thx...[emoji16][emoji16]

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[Roadster]

I haven't ran the LT5 in at least the last 5-6 years....that's what happens when you have 3 projects apart all at the same time....
So a few questions asked and advice needed...
1...we replaced the injectors around 2015-2016 at Jim's garage....should they be removed to be cleaned and flow tested???
2...gas tank is full[emoji618]️ and has Sta-bil in there....but I realize that won't last forever....so a drain and refill of fresh gas in order...I'm assuming???
3....since the plenum is pulled....was thinking about doing a secondary delete.....thoughts....

I know alot of other things need to be done...such as putting everything back together....lol....as I have a list of things to do....but any advice or suggestions is appreciated.....thx...[emoji16][emoji16]

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[WARP TEN]

I haven't ran the LT5 in at least the last 5-6 years....that's what happens when you have 3 projects apart all at the same time....
So a few questions asked and advice needed...
1...we replaced the injectors around 2015-2016 at Jim's garage....should they be removed to be cleaned and flow tested???
2...gas tank is full[emoji618]️ and has Sta-bil in there....but I realize that won't last forever....so a drain and refill of fresh gas in order...I'm assuming???
3....since the plenum is pulled....was thinking about doing a secondary delete.....thoughts....

I know alot of other things need to be done...such as putting everything back together....lol....as I have a list of things to do....but any advice or suggestions is appreciated.....thx...[emoji16][emoji16]

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If you haven't already, I suggest you look at this article by Marc Haibeck called "Gently waking a sleeping LT5". It is on his website. Maybe that can offer a few ideas:
https://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/articles/Gently%20Waking%20a%20Sleeping%20LT5.pdf
Also this one, "The Great Awakening": https://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/presentations/The%20Great%20Awakening.pdf

He also has a number of presentations and articles on the secondaries that you might find helpful. Good Luck! --Bob

[Roadster]

If you haven't already, I suggest you look at this article by Marc Haibeck called "Gently waking a sleeping LT5". It is on his website. Maybe that can offer a few ideas:
https://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/articles/Gently%20Waking%20a%20Sleeping%20LT5.pdf
Also this one, "The Great Awakening": https://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/presentations/The%20Great%20Awakening.pdf

He also has a number of presentations and articles on the secondaries that you might find helpful. Good Luck! --BobThanks Bob....reading and rereading to make sure I do the correct prep before restarting the LT5.... on a side note.....working on both the upper and lower control arms.... had success with the lower control bushings....but the uppers are difficult....and the opposite on the ball joints....upper is out...still need to drill out the remaining rivets....the lower has to be removed....no access to a press....so trying some different techniques....still have to remove the sway bar bushings also...getting there....20140201412014220143

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[Roadster]

Doing double duty as I'm starting to do some things on the 94 while still working on the C3's....so my Corvette pal Dom did some setup today with his drill press and even removed the ball joint from one of the uppers.... going there tomorrow and splitting our time between C3 & C4 work.... getting things done....pics and descriptions below....[emoji16][emoji16]
Pic #1...Been watching quite a few YouTube videos for the C4....one individual decided to upgrade the attaching hardware for the ball joint from the 1/4" bolts....nuts and lockwashers on the left....to the Grade 8 5/16" bolts... nyloc nuts and flat washers..on the right.....he felt that these would be stronger and I agree.....
Pic #2...Dom setup the drill press and went to work...
Pic #3...a time saver for sure....
Pic #4...Dom mentioned that the ball joint practically popped out.... compared to what we went through on the first upper...
Pic #5...all setup for tomorrow to elongate the openings to accommodate the 5/16" hardware....2016720168201692017020171

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[Roadster]

Sometimes you win and sometimes you dont.....this is one of those times where we didn't win....as the upper control arm mod isn't going as planned....somethings we should have done...we didn't even realize and think about until after..... so this is planned to try and see what the results will be....going to close up 2 of the ball joint holes in the arm with this product and then redrill....this time with two bolts installed with the ball joint attached to the arm....something we should have done....but did not.....read great reviews with this product.....20172

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[Roadster]

Can't believe that I've been a member of the Registry for 10 years and have owned the 94 for 10 years this month....where has the time gone.... glad I still have room on the tool box for future decals....fun times ahead once I get the 94 back on the road.... [emoji16][emoji16]20347

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[Roadster]

Getting ready to start back on the 94.....as one of the 74 Convertibles is almost finished....so did not make Carlisle this year....but one of my Corvette friends did and found a complete set of upper and lower controls arms with both the bushings and ball joints removed....and at a great price...so needless to say they ended up in the garage right here at home....so since the weather was perfect today and the outside open paint booth was available.....a paint job was in order....getting them ready for the SuperPro bushing install.... progress being made....😁😁
Pic #1....An upper wiped down and ready for spray...
Pic #2....Both uppers painted......
Pic #3....Here you can definitely see the contrast between both the Factory finish on the left and the finished painted arm on the right....
Pic #4....Both lowers now painted.....used the Seymour Alumi-Blast paint....which IMO gives a very nice finish....
Pic #5....Here are the two uppers again and this product in the middle is like an Aluminum epoxy.....which I may use to smooth out some minor imperfections....divets...etc....have used before and got excellent results.....once it hardens....it bonds fantastic.....

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Great job as usual Tom. Good to see you working on the Z again. I am finally retired so will be tearing into mine??.and then some.