TB removal and then some!!!

[Roadster]

If the pencil magnet works on the SS bolts, probably not SS?

This is what I ordered...
ARP m6-1.00 12PT STAINLESS STEEL FLANGE BOLT (size may vary)
the description also states that they are 300 stainless steel
which I don't have a clue to what the 300 means....

I do not know the correct answer to that, so I did a google.
this is what I found...

Will a magnet stick to stainless?
"Due to this difference, ferritic stainless steels are generally magnetic, while austenitic stainless steels usually are not. A ferritic stainless steel owes its magnetism to two factors: its high concentration of iron and its fundamental structure."

I would imagine then that these bolts are ferritic SS.

Looks like we both found the same answer.....lol

[BigJohn]

Ferritic stainless steel will rust!

[Roadster]

Ferritic stainless steel will rust!

I don't have the knowledge of the SS metals by any means.... but FYI Jerry's SS bolts which I also have, also stick to the pencil magnet as well. So if that is the case, then I am assuming that those bolts are also ferritic stainless steel as well. And if so that would mean they would also rust???
The simple solution to all of the rusting issues on either style bolt, is to change them when they do!!!:):):)


Then again from the above quote....
"ferritic stainless steels are generally magnetic, while austenitic stainless steels usually are not"

the words "usually are not" can also be interpreted that these bolts can also be austenitic stainless, which could mean that some are and some aren't......hmmmm the mystery continues.....

[BigJohn]

They can rust but not as quickly as mild steel with chrome heads.
We have used them on water features and they rust; the treated water is more corrosive than any water/moisture you have or use on your engine.

[Jagdpanzer]

Tom,
Unless you plan on doing a lot beach driving with an occasional dip in the surf you should be ok with these bolts being more or less rust free.

[Roadster]

John, I think I'll be fine with either one, I'm sure I'll be long gone before a change is needed...

I don't know Phil, was planning some beach drives at the Jersey Shore, guess I'll be rethinking that.....lol

Sent from my SM-G935P using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[BigJohn]

I live eight miles from the ocean and the salt air still corrodes some aluminum parts!
I do stay away from the water front during big storms and tidal surges.

[Roadster]

I live eight miles from the ocean and the salt air still corrodes some aluminum parts!
I do stay away from the water front during big storms and tidal surges.

I've been going down to the Jersey Shore long enough to know what you mean. You really have to watch in that environment.

Sent from my SM-G935P using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Plenum is now torqued down and secure @ 19 in-lb. Although it has been said, IIRC that when blocking the coolant from the plenum and TB, it is not necessary to torque the plenum bolts to spec. I did torque to spec or close to it, as my 1/4" drive TW starts at 20 in-lb. So I just torqued by feel as evenly as possible and did not get the click for the 20 in-lb setting.

I coated all of the bolts for easy removal in the future. I used Perfect Seal and an artist brush to apply a very thin coat. All went well...

I did run into a problem with bolt #12 which is located at the rear of the plenum on the passenger side above #8 cylinder. I found out that the fuel line was in the way not allowing the 12pt or the SS bolt (from Jerrys) to be inserted. I then loosen the fuel line so I could get better access and of course some fuel squirted out (I am sure because of being under pressure) for a second or two.
I was then able to install the 12pt bolt with no problem. Tighten up the fuel line and I was then able to get my socket in there for torqueing down the bolt.

The flat SS washers came in on Friday, I ordered "thin" 5/16" & 1/4" SS washers and they worked out just fine. They were less expensive than ordering a new set of the SS Metric versions. The non-SS metric (zinc) ones that I had ordered from before are really wider as you will see in the pics.
Thanks to Jep for his suggestions and recommendations for the bolts, washers and much more....appreciated.....:)

metric washer on the top, SAE washer on the bottom...appears to be same inside diameter, but you can see the difference in the overall diameter...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170709_185541.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170709_185541.jpg.html)
plenum bolt with metric washer, you can see how it extends outside the 12pt bolt...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170709_185413.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170709_185413.jpg.html)
plenum bolt with 5/16" SS washer...you can see how it is flush with the 12pt bolt with no extension outside the bolt...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170709_185655.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170709_185655.jpg.html)
how to set the washer between the runners that are tight....used the pencil magnet to hold the washer in place and a sprayer extension tube to press down on the washer and release the magnet when in place, worked great...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170709_190314.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170709_190314.jpg.html)
inserting the bolt(s) with the pencil magnet....no problem...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170709_192039.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170709_192039.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170709_192058.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170709_192058.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

thin coat of Perfect Seal applied to the bolt...overkill....maybe, but it is done...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170709_191549.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170709_191549.jpg.html)
10mm deep socked works great to tighten down those hard to reach bolts as well as all of the bolts...no need to use your fingers anymore trying to put the bolts in place....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170709_192154.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170709_192154.jpg.html)
#12 bolt, looking at it from this angle, you may say it looks like no problem getting in there.....not....unless I missed something about installing the bolts at one time or another, the fuel line does present a slight install problem...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170709_200754.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170709_200754.jpg.html)
now from this angle, you can see what I mean about installing the bolt and the fuel line in the way....once installed the 10mm socket fits perfect to tighten with no interference at all...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170709_200801_1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170709_200801_1.jpg.html)
RS....done...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170709_200749.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170709_200749.jpg.html)
LS....done...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170709_200637.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170709_200637.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

If you are talking about coolant elbow attached to the plenum, you can grab it lightly with adjustable wrench and twist it back and forth until it pulls off. Hole can be plugged with metal press on cap. I think it was 3/8" cap. Check the hole diameter. May have been 1/4".

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ADD-ON-252-217-CHROME-STEEL-PLUGS-FOR-3-8-AND-12MM-CAP-SCREWS-PACK-OF-10-/171325509223?epid=1833288350&hash=item27e3cbce67:g:4RQAAMXQeW5TbmWH&vxp=mtr

Thank you again Yun, your tip worked great. I ended up ordering the 1/4" cap, could have went with the 3/8" like you mentioned. I did end up spreading the pins to make it fit, works fine for now...:thumbsup:


Ok, put some time into the garage today, even with the heat....made more progress, any progress is good progress....starting to look like a LT5 once again. Things went pretty smooth today, just took my time and got it done...
Some pics...

started by getting the back of the engine hooked up...painted the 2 black screws later. thought I had replacements, but who knows...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170711_153141.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170711_153141.jpg.html)
pulled out the elbow....and inserted the plug...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170711_170216.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170711_170216.jpg.html)
needed to bend the pins out to fit, could have gone with slightly larger plug...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170711_170626.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170711_170626.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170711_171106.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170711_171106.jpg.html)
coating the coolant pipe gasket with Perfect Seal...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170711_171509.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170711_171509.jpg.html)
always trying new ways for gasket attachment....lol sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170711_171756.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170711_171756.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

LS on.....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170711_173950.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170711_173950.jpg.html)
have to do some minor touch up on the PCV pipe....bleeder valve now has plenty of room, no interference at all...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170711_174003.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170711_174003.jpg.html)
another method of gasket adhesion....lol
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170711_181550.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170711_181550.jpg.html)
RS done...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170711_183458.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170711_183458.jpg.html)
also touched up the coolant hose clamps after installation...I painted them off the hoses, but they still got marked up on installation..still more to do...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170711_183509.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170711_183509.jpg.html)

[mgbrv8]

Looking good Tom

Dave




LS on.....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170711_173950.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170711_173950.jpg.html)
have to do some minor touch up on the PCV pipe....bleeder valve now has plenty of room, no interference at all...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170711_174003.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170711_174003.jpg.html)
another method of gasket adhesion....lol
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170711_181550.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170711_181550.jpg.html)
RS done...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170711_183458.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170711_183458.jpg.html)
also touched up the coolant hose clamps after installation...I painted them off the hoses, but they still got marked up on installation..still more to do...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170711_183509.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170711_183509.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

Looking good Tom

Dave

Thanks Dave......:)

[Roadster]

Trying my experiment on the TB with the Dry Moly Lube instead of the dag. Not having the success and results I was looking for, I decided to give this a try. After applying several coats, there is still some day light around the blades. I am going to try to brush it on those areas and see what happens. I may also use the dag in addition to the moly lube just on the bore surface in the blade area and again see what happens...
Taped up the bore area so the lube wouldn't be sprayed all over.
This may be a longshot and not work as planned. But you'll never know unless you try it.... experimentation at its finest..lol
We shall see....

6369
6370
6371
6372
6373

Sent from my SM-G935P using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[carter200]

Should have bought stock in painters tape :cheers:

[BigJohn]

Cruise night!
Tom I am saving you a spot.

[Roadster]

Should have bought stock in painters tape :cheers:

I do go through it....lol enjoying a fun time.....:-D

Cruise night!
Tom I am saving you a spot.

Thanks John, I am on my way.....should be there in a few........:)

[Mystic ZR-1]

Hey?
It's raining there?
Tom, be careful, Big John just wants to
see ya get your car all wet! 😋
He tryed to get me too...

[Roadster]

Hey?
It's raining there?
Tom, be careful, Big John just wants to
see ya get your car all wet! 😋
He tryed to get me too...

Well Doug, I would have had to take the 82. That has been wet many, many times....lol
I think John is just trying to get me to get the Z back together sooner than later:)

[BigJohn]

Hey?
It's raining there?
Tom, be careful, Big John just wants to
see ya get your car all wet! 😋
He tryed to get me too...

Paul showed up and parked next to me!

[BigJohn]

Tom,
You missed another cruise!
Mystic ZR-1 and I saved you a parking spot.

:cheers:

[Roadster]

John,
Looks like it was a good turnout...you really saved that spot for more sitting space..lol

Ok have to test my memory, is the roadster in front of your vehicles a Morgan, or ???
That looks like it is in great shape. And also quite a variety of cars...
BTW, needed sunglasses to view, as the reflection off the Z was too much for me to handle..lol


Sent from my SM-G935P using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Mystic ZR-1]

Believe it's an Excalibur?
Tasteless 80s retro of a 30s special on a
Ford Torino chassis...
As Nancy Reagan said, "just say no"....

[Roadster]

I hear you there, but from here it looked decent, although couldn't view the entire car....maybe I should take off the sunglasses...lol

Sent from my SM-G935P using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Been busy lately with the 74, haven't done much with the 94 until today. Also slight back complications slowed me down some and recently started a new FB page for the 454 during the early to mid 70's. May also be including 396/402's and 427's from previous years, as we now have some of those owners who have joined the Group.

So when you mess up, you mess up and I messed up....went to remove the elbow from the front of the plenum and it did not go well.....chipped some of the paint on the plenum in the process and the elbow broke off. So part of the rim is still attached to the plenum......oh well!!!!
Did a touchup and have to figure out how to plug that hole, so far the caps don't want stay in there......so have to give this some thought so I don't mess anything else up....lol

new size caps came in...3/8"

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170725_114205.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170725_114205.jpg.html)
not too much of a difference between the 3/8" and the 1/4" that I can tell...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170725_115207.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170725_115207.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170725_115246.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170725_115246.jpg.html)
the dreaded busted up elbow extension...I would have been better off leaving it in place.....lol
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170725_123107.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170725_123107.jpg.html)
when you mess up, you mess up.....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170725_123116.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170725_123116.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

I am not too sure how good this paint will hold up in the future.....so there may be another plenum pull next year....lol
Don't know if I should take a chance and try to get the rest of the "tube" out of the plenum.....hmmmmm....

the mess up...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170725_123133.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170725_123133.jpg.html)
the touch up....not NCRS....but good enough.....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170725_130137.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170725_130137.jpg.html)
also gave me the opportunity to go over some of the pipes....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170725_130157.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170725_130157.jpg.html)

[QB93Z]

Your paint job looks great Tom. Get that ZR-1 back together and bring it to WAZOO WMD. We can get the tube remnants out.


Jim

[Roadster]

Your paint job looks great Tom. Get that ZR-1 back together and bring it to WAZOO WMD. We can get the tube remnants out.


Jim

Thanks for the compliment Jim, still have to finish up on the TB, which I am doing tomorrow. Also responded on the WAZOO WMD thread a few minutes ago.

received the SS bolts from Jerrys last week and installed today on the MAP bracket....so some other progress was also made today.....lol
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170725_105647.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170725_105647.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

As you know I have working on and off on the TB, well today I wanted to see if my idea with the dry moly lube worked out better than using the dag. Answer, not really. So I can still see daylight through the secondary blades, but I now have sort of a "dag" foundation on the blades and in the bore. No one to give up (just a glutton for punishment, lol) I will order another container of dag and this time apply it better than before learning from my previous application.
So the process continues......

inside the bores, still taped up...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170727_184229.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170727_184229.jpg.html)
tape removed and you can see the line of the dry moly lube in the bore...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170727_191044.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170727_191044.jpg.html)
and on the blades...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170727_191100.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170727_191100.jpg.html)
daylight....not good.....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170727_191303.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170727_191303.jpg.html)
ugh.....lol
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170727_191309.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170727_191309.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170727_191343.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170727_191343.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170727_191358.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170727_191358.jpg.html)

[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

Hi Tom I order a bottle of dag it turned up the other day so will be joining you in applying the dag
Regards Glen Collins

Sent from my SM-G930F using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Hi Tom I order a bottle of dag it turned up the other day so will be joining you in applying the dag
Regards Glen Collins

Sent from my SM-G930F using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

Glen, this will be my second one....lol I really have to think this out, since it's a major operation....lol probably will still use an artist brush, but change the technique for applying the substance. How you may ask, I don't know other than I don't want to make the same mistake that I made before when applying...I am hoping as mentioned that the dry moly lube now acts as a base and somehow the dag will just flow on.....just having a cold one and thinking out loud....:)

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I like your perseverance Tom!!!!


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (https://siteowners.tapatalk.com/byo/displayAndDownloadByoApp?rid=90383)

[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

Hi Tom will the dag stick to the moly
Glen

Sent from my SM-G930F using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

I like your perseverance Tom!!!!


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (https://siteowners.tapatalk.com/byo/displayAndDownloadByoApp?rid=90383)

Thanks Craig, I like it too....lol now only if it pays off!!! :)

Hi Tom will the dag stick to the moly
Glen

Sent from my SM-G930F using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

Good morning Glen,
I do not know, I don't see a reason why it shouldn't, unless the two substances are incompatible with each other. Good question, will have to check that out!!! And if not, the moly lube can be removed, no biggie, just more time involved. Thanks for bringing that up!!!:)

[Roadster]

Well been busy with a lot of things lately, working on the 74, getting the new FB page off the ground and just received my next order of dag. So the TB was next in line for work.
I applied the dag a little bit different this time and it worked out just fine. In the drying process now for the next 24 hours. Then I'll have to tap the blades to break them loose. Then will have to work the throttle a number of times to make sure the blades operate freely, then paint and hope to have installed by the weekend.

the dag...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170802_132526.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170802_132526.jpg.html)
in the next 2 pics, you could see the amount of light that comes through the blades even though the dry moly lube was applied...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170802_133350.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170802_133350.jpg.html)
half dag applied, half not...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170802_140420.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170802_140420.jpg.html)
with the dag applied and holding up to the lights....no light coming through...very satisfied with the results....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170802_141851.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170802_141851.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170802_141910.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170802_141910.jpg.html)

If anyone has an interest in BBC's from 1965-1976, check out my page....
https://www.facebook.com/groups/LS4454/

Thanks....

[Roadster]

Still working on the TB, applied numerous coats of the "dag" to achieve the results of no gaps from the secondary blades. The "light test" works really well in checking for would be leaks.....
I also decided not to cut the coolant hose that went up to the plenum, but trim it slightly so I could insert the brass nipple and cap into the hose. Did not want to do the plug and shrink wrap at this time...
So moving right along, need to paint the TB (should be today) and get it all installed in a day or two...

brass nipple and cap.....with Perfect Seal on the threads....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170806_142949.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170806_142949.jpg.html)
used a 9/16" wrench to insert into the hose....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170806_143004.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170806_143004.jpg.html)
since I was leaving the coolant hose in place, I wanted to secure it so it wouldn't be bouncing around from engine vibration.....so I attached to a harness and used this piece of hose as an insulator...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170806_144428.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170806_144428.jpg.html)
hose in the vise with a cutter for a safe easy cut...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170806_144858.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170806_144858.jpg.html)
nice even cut...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170806_145030.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170806_145030.jpg.html)
fits perfect....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170806_145144.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170806_145144.jpg.html)
plastic tied and secured....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170806_145357.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170806_145357.jpg.html)

[mgbrv8]

Boy that Dag has been challenging to say the least. Once you have undoubtedly mastered the process I bet it would make a great tech article for the Heart of the beast publication.

Dave:cheers:




Well been busy with a lot of things lately, working on the 74, getting the new FB page off the ground and just received my next order of dag. So the TB was next in line for work.
I applied the dag a little bit different this time and it worked out just fine. In the drying process now for the next 24 hours. Then I'll have to tap the blades to break them loose. Then will have to work the throttle a number of times to make sure the blades operate freely, then paint and hope to have installed by the weekend.

the dag...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170802_132526.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170802_132526.jpg.html)
in the next 2 pics, you could see the amount of light that comes through the blades even though the dry moly lube was applied...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170802_133350.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170802_133350.jpg.html)
half dag applied, half not...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170802_140420.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170802_140420.jpg.html)
with the dag applied and holding up to the lights....no light coming through...very satisfied with the results....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170802_141851.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170802_141851.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170802_141910.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170802_141910.jpg.html)

If anyone has an interest in BBC's from 1965-1976, check out my page....
https://www.facebook.com/groups/LS4454/

Thanks....

[Roadster]

Boy that Dag has been challenging to say the least. Once you have undoubtedly mastered the process I bet it would make a great tech article for the Heart of the beast publication.

Dave:cheers:

Thanks for that complement Dave, but I don't know about mastering the process....lol....and it's not the prettiest application....but who sees inside??? lol
I can understand why some don't want to get involved with using it, because it is time consuming (which I have a lot of) and you may need multiple applications (as I did) to make sure there aren't any gaps. And you need sufficient drying and curing time in between. And I am not using the kitchen oven.....that would really stink up the house, so it makes the process that much longer....lol..
Of course the final test is when the TB is back on the car with the engine running. If I am successful with this, then it would be a good article for the HOTB. If not, oh well, onto the next viable solution.....:)
Will post up current dag pics before installation.....

[Roadster]

Also a side note.....after some curing, drying time, before continuing further whether with more applications, or installation of the TB, you need to work the throttle blades multiple times. It will stick shut in either the closed blade drying curing position or the open blade drying curing position after you close it. I use the end of throw away foam paint brush that has the wood handle. Just put pressure on the blade with the bottom of the wood handle, as you are opening the throttle blades. This way there is no real stress on the throttle shaft which could result into a problem....will post up pics....

[Roadster]

Hmmm, I'm all over the place today....lol I need to clarify that in the one of the previous posts, where I said I was satisfied with the outcome, well that was not the case. After you apply your application of the dag and let it sit for 12 to 24 hours, you then work the throttle blades as mentioned above and then you do a light test where you go into a dark room with a very bright flashlight and shine in each of the secondary blades front and back to see if any light comes through around the perimeter of the blade(s). If so you will have a leak, therefore you need additional application(s) to eliminate those gaps. I still did see gaps, until today after yesterdays application. I still have a very minute gap here and there where I am now making progress in closing those gaps.
FYI, I am not an expert working with or applying "dag", just using common sense, which sometimes works for me and sometimes doesn't...lol
Hopefully within the next few days, we'll all find out if my common sense has paid off....lol:)

[Roadster]

Ok some post up pics as mentioned....could I be anal, or OCD, probably so!!!

in this pic, here is an area on the right bottom of the pic, where there is a gap....flashlight test in the dark...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170806_164454.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170806_164454.jpg.html)
the other blade...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170806_164555.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170806_164555.jpg.html)
on the other side...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170806_164709.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170806_164709.jpg.html)
not the neatest application, but the best I could with the applicator...will clean up inside the bores after completed without affecting the blades...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170806_165050.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170806_165050.jpg.html)
in open light, you can see the gap with the flashlight test...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170806_165307.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170806_165307.jpg.html)
another small gap....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170806_165413.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170806_165413.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

Finally finished up the gaps, so hopefully I will be good....
Prepped the TB for paint and sprayed multiple coats in the open paint booth....😁
Before paint, sprayed several coats and the finished result......
On to the next step....

64306431643264336434

Sent from my SM-G935P using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[BigJohn]

Cruise Night at Essenhaus I saved you a spot next to my GTX!

[XfireZ51]

Properly spacing the butterfly in the throttle bore was something I thought would
Be a no brainer. It isn't. I let Marc do it.

[Roadster]

Cruise Night at Essenhaus I saved you a spot next to my GTX!
Dreaming, your always dreaming.....lol I'm leavening now.....[emoji2]

Sent from my SM-G935P using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Properly spacing the butterfly in the throttle bore was something I thought would
Be a no brainer. It isn't. I let Marc do it.
I hear you, but success or not, I just have to try it for myself first...I think you understand....if I fail, will send it out to Marc....

Sent from my SM-G935P using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Well I did fail part way on the paint, did something I should've and resulted in stripping off the paint....
Now retaped and painted again....
Glad I'm retired.......

643564366437

Sent from my SM-G935P using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[BigJohn]

Dreaming, your always dreaming.....lol I'm leavening now.....[emoji2]

Sent from my SM-G935P using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)



Yes I know, Middleberry Indiana is an even longer drive for you than Connecticut!

[Roadster]

Yes I know, Middleberry Indiana is an even longer drive for you than Connecticut!

It sure is and after the day I had today, I might be going there!!!

Today's update....good and not so good......I'll start with the not so good......
Had to semi-pull the plenum today, because I had the TPS plug (out of the way) near the back of the alternator which I did not know at the time.....so....up it came to locate the plug for the TPS. And of course I nick the plenum in a few places.....:censored: So got everything back together, plenum bolted up, TB installed....woohoo....air assembly connected and poured the antifreeze back in.....left the bleeders open, cap off and after some burping, coolant came out of the LS bleeder. Closed both bleeders and left the caps loose on both tanks. So there shouldn't be a problem there when I go to start the engine.
After installing the TB and all linkage, had my wife press the accelerator to the floor a number of times, and WOT is perfect, all blades completely open. Will check again when I hook up the Tech 1, to make sure it says 100% @WOT.
Still have to connect the IAC and the EGR tube, other than that, just about ready to go.....should be sometime this weekend, too much going on here to devote another good part of the day to finish up....
No pics tonight, locked out of my phone til tomorrow......(another of the not so good today....)....lol

Glad this day is over........:-D

[Roadster]

Almost there, funeral this morning and then this afternoon a get together with friends. Trying to squeeze in whatever I can get done in between.
So some minor things to reconnect, put the battery tender on and battery had a full charge within a short time. Still have to touch-up some spots, but looking good for a early AM start tomorrow. Hopefully everything will go smoothly. We shall see......
Some updated pics.....close, very close.....lol

starting to look like a LT5 once again. Far from perfect compared to all of the great engines I have seen over the years, but clean enough for now, and still more to do!!!
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170812_135414.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170812_135414.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170812_135433.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170812_135433.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

The LT5 is running once again in almost 4 months of down time. Started up tonight after I had to correct another oversight. Of course I installed the coolant pipe on the RS and forgot that the EGR tube goes under the pipe, not over it.....:redface: So drained some coolant and proceeded to get the EGR tube installed correctly.
Checked the TPS and it was set @.50v, so I set it @.54v, but now after the test drive it reads .56v which I am thinking is still within specs. I also removed the oil filter during the EGR install to get better access and ended up changing out the filter which I gave a slight fill up. So I go to start and set the IAC per FSM, and it starts up immediately, with no chain rattle. Run for 5 seconds or more, shut down the engine and restart after 10-12 seconds. Engine starts right up and then idles down to around 650 rpm's. IAC's at this time read 20 or so, give or take a few. While letting the engine warm up, I check the tire air pressure, fill with some air and I'm ready to go.
To me the engine is now idling perfectly. Proceed down the street and it feels good. The throttle seems to stick when pressing down, but I feel it's related to the "dag", more on that later. So now I am getting into it bringing up the r's and it is running great. Made multiple stops and the idle never once rose up to the 900-1100 rpm's that it was doing before.
Reading the Tech 1, my IAC's were around 10 when stopped, but when driving more and stopping more the IAC's came down more. At one time it read "0", but only that one time. After that it could read @ idle 6 or 4 or even 2, but usually 6 or 7 at a stop and idling. Now when stopped if I give it gas, the IAC's jump to 20 with no problem, then come down to 6 or 7 with my foot off the accelerator.
At no time, even with the IAC reading as low as it did, did the idle rise to the 900-1100 rpm range. In fact again, the idle is perfect to me. Tech 1 desired idle is 662 rpm's. My idle was from 637 r's to 652 r's all of the time tonight.
Now onto the "dag"....the throttle would stick at around 20% opening, and then open smoother after that. I think that the "dag" which appears to be quite sticky when in the closed position for any amount of time is what is causing this condition. I would imagine that the throttle needs more movement to "break-in" the stickiness of the "dag". So tonight I have the throttle in the open position with my plastic cap against the bore and the blade. We'll see what happens tomorrow when more test driving is done.
I know I may need more minor tweaks as I keep driving to get it dialed in correctly. But except for the throttle condition, it is fine for me.
I can't say it was exactly one thing that I did to correct the idle problem I had, as there were multiple items that were found and corrected while I was in there. I can say it felt real good and strong with tonight's drive. Felt very good to drive the Z again....
Also got a chance to use the new headlights tonight, very bright and very satisfied with them....

I would like to thank everyone who replied with advice and suggestions. Along with the people whom I had texted back and forth and had many phone conversations with during this time. It was very much appreciated, and again......Thanks....:)


http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170813_203729.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170813_203729.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170813_211451.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170813_211451.jpg.html)

[Ccmano]

Congrats on successful completion!
H

:worship:

[mgbrv8]

Well done buddy great work

Dave

[Roadster]

Congrats on successful completion!
H

:worship:

Well done buddy great work

Dave

Thank you, thank you!!! appreciated.... but not quite done yet. I still have those minor tweaks to do and have just been informed that the min-air and TPS need more adjustments. This was also mentioned in another thread about making these adjustments when installing the TB.
From what I understand is that my IAC's are still to low @idle. They should be between 15-20 or slightly higher @idle. And along with that, the TPS will need to be set @.54v again. So it's a back and forth adjustment that's needed to dial everything in properly.
I also failed to mentioned that the "dag" that I used, the instructions called for baking in the oven at very high temps for a certain period of time to make the "dag" cure. I did not do that, not in the kitchen oven....lol baking chemicals....so I am hoping that it will cure over time on its own and with use from driving the Z. Right now the throttle issue is minor to me, as I want to get the TPS and min-air adjustments correct that way my IAC's will be where they should be.....other than that, when those secondaries opened up earlier, it was go, go, go!!!
And so far, no coolant leaks and the bleeders work very well!!!:-D

[Roadster]

Did some adjustments tonight and here is where I am at. I did not at this time go through the other recommended procedure when adjusting the IAC and the TPS.
I made a slight adjustment on the min-air which resulted in a slightly higher idle around 725 rpm's. I then adjusted the TPS @.54v but ended up with .56v. I left it there for the test drive. IAC's were around 20 @idle but then after driving stop and go, they started to come down and eventually ended @"0" for idle once again. Also at no time did the idle raise to the levels they were from before, so that is good.
Now when turning on the AC, the IAC's increase, which they should. They went up to 25 count and pretty much stayed there with the AC on @idle. Now when I shut the AC off, the IAC's drop as they are supposed to, but this time they do not drop to "0", @idle they drop to a 7 or 6 count and stay there. Performed this test a number of times, and got the same results. Also the idle dropped down to the 650 rpm range like before. So other than the throttle sticking "dag" problem, the engine is running great.
My questions are....
1-did I energize something by putting the AC on, which in turn triggered the IAC counts not to drop back to "0" when the AC was shut off and then remain at the 6 or 7 count @idle?
2-is there a chance there is a defective part, (IAC is brand new) which is causing this condition?
3-I imagine I need to follow the procedure that Dominic posted sometime ago to its full extent for a proper calibration.

Again, the idle is perfect for me. No matter how many times I came to a stop, (I know I keep repeating this) it never rose up to the 900-1100 rpm range as before. I feel lucky to have the idle under control. And I am assuming that is was either one or a few items I addressed while under the plenum....

Any thoughts or info is appreciated.......thx....

[S.hafsmo]

I thought it wasn't supposed to go to zero at idle? Zero would mean it's cannot close further, and thus no longer controls the idle (=air leak)?

[Roadster]

I thought it wasn't supposed to go to zero at idle? Zero would mean it's cannot close further, and thus no longer controls the idle (=air leak)?

It's not suppose to go to "0" as you mentioned...I just don't know why it did and then after using the AC it went to 6 or 7. In other words why did it go to "0" to begin with is the question.....obviously something is not right, but it idles great......:-D

Late update.....just had a long phone conversation and have a better understanding of my situation. I'm on the right track, just need to make some more minor adjustments with the TPS and min-air. I'm almost there.....:-D

[nelson007]

Looks great.

Nelson

[Roadster]

Looks great.

Nelson

Thanks Nelson, appreciated.....still have much more to do, but it is better than it was......:-D

BTW, send you a PM recently, hope you check it out......

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Congratulations Tom and great job with this project. Thanks for taking time to document and share. I'm sure you'll find a new project soon and I can't wait to follow along and I'll be a sponge sucking up this info.


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (https://siteowners.tapatalk.com/byo/displayAndDownloadByoApp?rid=90383)

[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

Hi Tom great to see it going again awesome to see it idling at the correct speed also good that you are happy with it

Sent from my SM-G930F using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Congratulations Tom and great job with this project. Thanks for taking time to document and share. I'm sure you'll find a new project soon and I can't wait to follow along and I'll be a sponge sucking up this info.


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (https://siteowners.tapatalk.com/byo/displayAndDownloadByoApp?rid=90383)

Glad you are enjoying the thread Craig, still more to do with the minor adjustments. Always projects going on, never ending.....:)

Hi Tom great to see it going again awesome to see it idling at the correct speed also good that you are happy with it

Sent from my SM-G930F using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

Hello and thanks Glen, yes very happy with the idle speed:dancing but as mentioned above and previous posts, just maybe another minor tweak or two, to keep those IAC's in an acceptable range. If I get them to stay up above a 10 count or higher during idle on a consistent basis, I will be satisfied......

[tnova]

I've been following the posts closely as I'm rebuilding my LT5 (160k miles) to with GVD full porting including the TB. I'll have to go through the idle setting. Short block is done, waiting on the top end but not rushing. Thanks.
Tony

[Roadster]

I've been following the posts closely as I'm rebuilding my LT5 (160k miles) to with GVD full porting including the TB. I'll have to go through the idle setting. Short block is done, waiting on the top end but not rushing. Thanks.
Tony

Tony, glad the posts may help you out. On the idle issue from what I have learned from reading and relayed by phone conversations is to let the engine warm up fully to operating temps in Closed Loop. Check your IAC's and TPS settings. It would also be good to have access to a Tech 1 or similar scanning device. After fully warmed up check your IAC counts at idle to see where they fall and also check your idle. If your counts and idle are within the range, then go far a test drive and do multiple stops and starts making sure you come to full complete stops for more than a few seconds. Each time you come to a complete stop, check where your IAC counts are and what your idle is doing. If you need to make adjustments to bring your IAC counts up, you will need to turn the min-air adjustment screw counter clockwise (which will close the primary blade more) ever, ever so very slightly for each adjustment you do. Blip the throttle and let the idle settle down for a few, and then set your TPS to .54v, again blip the throttle and let everything settle down. Then what I feel is the most important item, is to go for a test drive like you previously did and follow the same procedure as you did before. Come back and take your readings again, make any adjustments
that you need to do to get your counts in range.
If your idle is higher than it should be, then you may have a different or additional problem that will need to be addressed.
Most of you probably already know this, but I thought I would post what is working for me. This has been quite a learning experience for me and I very much appreciate the certain individual who has educated me through this during this time.:-D

[tnova]

Thanks. I've got a Tech 1 and will be following the procedure you provided.
Tony

[Ccmano]

I've been following the posts closely as I'm rebuilding my LT5 (160k miles) to with GVD full porting including the TB. I'll have to go through the idle setting. Short block is done, waiting on the top end but not rushing. Thanks.
Tony

Not to hijack the thread, Tony why did u decide to rebuild at 160k miles? Mine is at 181k but compression is strong. Other than possible chain stretch is see no reason to rebuild just yet.
H
:cheers:

[tnova]

Agree, the LT5 is a stout high mileage engine. However I don't think the previous owner cared well for the car. I had excessive oil consumption, even for an LT5, and barely got through CA smog after 4 tries last time-probably the oil blow by. All the liners were out of specs and a few had fingernail snagging scratches so I replaced them all. And who doesn't need more power!
Tony

[Ccmano]

Agree, the LT5 is a stout high mileage engine. However I don't think the previous owner cared well for the car. I had excessive oil consumption, even for an LT5, and barely got through CA smog after 4 tries last time-probably the oil blow by. All the liners were out of specs and a few had fingernail snagging scratches so I replaced them all. And who doesn't need more power!
Tony

I see. Mine was well cared for. No lower end issues whatsoever. When the time comes I will go for at least a 510 engine. I have a Fidanza/clutch, headers and exhaust going in shortly. Keep us posted on your build.
H
:cheers:

[Roadster]

So last night my throttle was sticking again in the garage later in the night. So opened the throttle all the way and left it like that for the next 15 hours. Also was thinking of what I could do to make the throttle non-sticky. It was operating very smoothly after I took out the plastic inserts. Then I applied a thin coat of White Lithium Grease on the ends of the blades so when they close they would be less sticky. It seems to work well, might have to do a little bit more on the top of the blades.....this is apparently what happens when you don't bake the "dag" in an oven as per instructions. It takes much longer to cure.....

I did do a minor tweak last night on the min-air screw, another counter clock wise turn, a very tiny adjustment. My TPS reads .54v with engine off, but will read .56v with engine running and sometimes will go down to .54v when stopped. The engine does not stall, the idle is where it should be IMO. The IAC's have somewhat stabilized during the stop and go testing, which reads anywhere from 15 to 10 count at a stop and after the second test drive right after the first test drive came down to a 6 count. But that 6 count was a result of me turning the AC on and off multiple times, so it may not have had time to stabilize.
Everything is where it is going to be, I could be splitting hairs forever trying to get the perfect balance. So I am very satisfied with the results, the only other tweak would be to the throttle blades again, with the white grease.
And my idle was in range with the desired idle reading of 662 rpm's when fully warmed up in Closed Loop. It could go as low as 637 r's or as high as 675 r's. And this does need repeating, at no time did the idle ever go up to the 900-1100 rpm range as before when I was having that problem. That alone is worth everything that was done with this plenum pull. With the corrections made and a lot of luck....lol, it is a very satisfying feeling!!!
Other than that, it's a done deal.......

keeping the throttle blades open all night and most of the day...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170816_132352.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170816_132352.jpg.html)
one of my readings during a complete stop....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170816_170413.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170816_170413.jpg.html)
TPS reading with engine running at a complete stop....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170816_170430.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170816_170430.jpg.html)
TPS reading with engine off and sometimes running at a complete stop...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170816_170649.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170816_170649.jpg.html)
Throttle opens to 100% with engine not running...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170816_170709.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170816_170709.jpg.html)
my last IAC count reading with engine idling after the second test drive for today.....and multiple AC on and off tests...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170816_172533.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170816_172533.jpg.html)

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Tom,

You're a great and patient man. If it were me, that darn TB would be off and in the mail to Marc!!!!

Aloha,
Craig

[Roadster]

Tom,

You're a great and patient man. If it were me, that darn TB would be off and in the mail to Marc!!!!

Aloha,
Craig

I hear you there Craig, thanks for the compliment:) I took a chance using the "dag" and so far it is working out for me. Just came out of the garage after checking throttle operation and it works great. I think the combo of using the white grease with constantly working the throttle is paying off. Last night I had to use the back part of a wood handle and tap it with a mallet to break the blades free while my wife pressed down on the accelerator. That's when I installed the plastic cups to keep the blades open. Just awhile ago as mentioned, I can open the blades completely using the TB linkage. So it's a big difference from last night.....another test drive tomorrow, and then start to get ready for Carlisle......:-D

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I hear you there Craig, thanks for the compliment:) I took a chance using the "dag" and so far it is working out for me. Just came out of the garage after checking throttle operation and it works great. I think the combo of using the white grease with constantly working the throttle is paying off. Last night I had to use the back part of a wood handle and tap it with a mallet to break the blades free while my wife pressed down on the accelerator. That's when I installed the plastic cups to keep the blades open. Just awhile ago as mentioned, I can open the blades completely using the TB linkage. So it's a big difference from last night.....another test drive tomorrow, and then start to get ready for Carlisle......:-D


Sounds great and hoping the best results for you. Waiting for you to open "Tom's Throttle Body Rebuilding Service". Aloha!


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (https://siteowners.tapatalk.com/byo/displayAndDownloadByoApp?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Sounds great and hoping the best results for you. Waiting for you to open "Tom's Throttle Body Rebuilding Service". Aloha!


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (https://siteowners.tapatalk.com/byo/displayAndDownloadByoApp?rid=90383)

Thanks Craig, no rebuilding service for me.....lol....there are people here with way more experience for that type of service. All I did was clean, repaint and replace the "dag" over a period of time. I did not disassemble any of the linkage, throttle blades or shafts as would be done in a complete rebuilding process. Just happy it's working out!!!
:proud:

[Roadster]

Just completed some touch-up on the plenum that I had messed up....perfect-no.....acceptable-yes.....

You also know that when you attach the TB linkage cover that you are done and ready to go.....
Checked my throttle operation late last night and this morning. Working perfect, no stuck blades, or hang-ups, nice and smooth from 0%-100%.
Tweaking the system is completed....ready for the road.....
Now on to polishing....(of course I'm trying something new), so we'll see how it works out!!!

the touch-up in process....acceptable....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170817_125308.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170817_125308.jpg.html)
finished and cleared for now.....until another time!!!
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170817_131032.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170817_131032.jpg.html)
the final closure.....lol.....linkage cover attached....lol...
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170817_131022.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170817_131022.jpg.html)

[Roadster]

Just got back from a gas fill up, ready for Carlisle.....:-D
TPS reading is dead on .54v and the IAC's are stable and very acceptable. Idle is perfect and the throttle is so smooth. I just wanted to drive all night....
The only other thing is my ASR light has been coming on at times, and IIRC that needs to be reset and can be done with the Tech 1. Have to look through the FSM again for the proper procedure.....all-in-all....very good results....:dancing

[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

Just got back from a gas fill up, ready for Carlisle.....:-D
TPS reading is dead on .54v and the IAC's are stable and very acceptable. Idle is perfect and the throttle is so smooth. I just wanted to drive all night....
The only other thing is my ASR light has been coming on at times, and IIRC that needs to be reset and can be done with the Tech 1. Have to look through the FSM again for the proper procedure.....all-in-all....very good results....:dancing
Great work awesome to hear it is going so well
Glen

Sent from my SM-G930F using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Great work awesome to hear it is going so well
Glen

Sent from my SM-G930F using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

Thanks Glen, appreciated.....:)

[Roadster]

Thought I would mention that after all of the test driving, my coolant temps are great with the TB and Plenum coolant elimination. The bleeder valves work great and my coolant level is stabilized. So that is another plus for me. Appreciate all of the info from everyone on the coolant by-pass solutions....:-D

[Roadster]

The latest driving update from the Carlisle trip.....:-D
I always like to keep my updates as real as they can be, meaning that I will tell you the good, the not so good and the bad, when and if that happens.
Driving out to Carlisle Thursday morning, (met up with Marty) and away we went. Engine felt real strong, no reason not too!!! Keeping my foot out of it, getting 28.1 mpg and if I was really good, saw as high as 32.4 mpg. Now we know that doesn't stay that way unless you were on a perfectly flat road the entire trip. But that last number was neat to see.....

When I got off the ramp, I did notice the idle was up very slightly when at a complete stop. Blipped the throttle lightly and came back down. This happen two times, maybe a third. Left the Fairgrounds to head back to the hotel, got off the ramp, came to a complete stop and all was fine. So we know that the throttle does not come back to the precise closed position each and every time. So it could have been a freak thing, because the rest of the trip which included coming home, was perfect. Except one time getting on the Pike, the throttle seemed to stick when accelerating for a second or two. And that was after sitting in line at Carlisle for an extended period of time waiting to get to the stage. May or may not be relevant to the situation!!!
Did it that one time and that was it.....after that.....excellent.....:D

Now the big news, when I first bought the Z almost 3 1/2 years ago, 6th gear felt useless to me for various reasons. Fast forward to now and 6th gear has a whole new meaning......
I can now accelerate in 6th gear at a moderate level, and downshifting to 5th of course gives us more power when and if needed.....it actually felt useful!!! the only reason I could think of is the recent plenum pull, where multiple items were addressed. Not to say that 6th gear is the end all, be all.....but what a nice difference from before and now, a very nice improvement.....:-D

So we will have a constant assessment of the progress being made as it happens, being that you may always need a slight tweak here and there... :)

[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

Hi Tom great to hear the vehicle is running so good what do you think the average fuel economy would be. The best I have average is 26.4mpg our roads are very up and down the worst is 14.29mpg and I think your fuel is better than ours I have just finished befitting the front and rear suspension have also fitted anew Ron Davis radiator I have rebush the suspension with urethane I have adjusted the pinion bearings preload with a solid space no shims also have put insulation on the trans tunnel I have also had all my suspension vapor blast still alot to do
Regards Glen Collins

Sent from my SM-G930F using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Hi Tom great to hear the vehicle is running so good what do you think the average fuel economy would be. The best I have average is 26.4mpg our roads are very up and down the worst is 14.29mpg and I think your fuel is better than ours I have just finished befitting the front and rear suspension have also fitted anew Ron Davis radiator I have rebush the suspension with urethane I have adjusted the pinion bearings preload with a solid space no shims also have put insulation on the trans tunnel I have also had all my suspension vapor blast still alot to do
Regards Glen Collins

Sent from my SM-G930F using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

Hello Glen, I can't give you a honest answer because I don't always take long trip with the Z on a regular basis. I can only go from what I experienced on the Carlisle trip. But I will say that on the return trip I was around 22.4 mpg give or take a tenth here and there. I will also say that I was in 6th gear much more than I was before as previously mentioned and did use and stay in 5th gear on some occasions as well as a downshifts to 4th, and traveling at various speeds. All-in-all, as mentioned before, running just fine.....again, very, very happy :):)

[Roadster]

One of the highlights of the entire event was how the influence of one member's recommendation to buy a really cool product.....
A big thanks to Robert (cvette98pacecar) for coming back to the tent and help me spend some $$.....:)

these lug guide tool's for wheels are a easier way to take off and install your wheels on the vehicle, especially if you have aftermarket wheels and calipers. 3 needed per wheel, will be anxious to try them out....
Thank you Robert!!!:)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170828_141950.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170828_141950.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170828_141958.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170828_141958.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170828_142006.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170828_142006.jpg.html)

[lfalzarano]

I give up. How does this tool make it easier?


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

I give up. How does this tool make it easier?


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

When you remove a lug nut, especially on your back wheels, you screw one of these extensions onto the wheel stud. Three is sufficient to attach, so that when you are removing the wheel/tire it will slide straight out towards you. And installation is easier as when you are attaching the wheel/tire, it will now line up with no problem. Then install 2 lugs that don't have the extensions on them and then remove one extension at a time and replace with lug nut.
I like them, easy on your back when trying to line up the wheel holes to the studs. No more using your finger through the wheel hole to feel for the stud, you know when your almost there, but's if off by a hair....and your finger will thank you.......:)

Plus for the aftermarket wheels and calipers, you have a much better chance of the wheel not tilting and not damaging anything in its way......

[Mystic ZR-1]

You could get by with just one of them?

[BigJohn]

You could get by with just one of them?

One lug nut?

[Mystic ZR-1]

One lug nut?

Sure, if it's tight...

[secondchance]

Sure, if it's tight...

Or even non, if you are continuously turning against the wheel with no lug nuts.

Actually the day I drove home from Jim's after 3 days of installing motor after the first rebuild (yes. My motor was rebuilt twice. Definitely living up to my handle...), I found out the next day that lug nuts on both my front wheels were hand tight. Frank, the mechanic who pulled my motor at his home before being towed to Jim's garage must have removed both wheels for some reason and never tightened them. To think I was running the car at 75-80 on I-70 and I-270 for 80 mile trip...

[Roadster]

You could get by with just one of them?

One lug nut?

No, not really....the way it was explained and it does make sense is that if you only used one lug guide tool, then the weight of the wheel would lean down and possibly damage those nice calipers you have. And also you lose leverage to say the least. With three, it makes it so much easier to "slide" the wheel on and know that it will be lined up perfectly to accept two of the lug nuts with no problem.....I bought 3 as recommended....can't wait to try them out.....:)

[WARP TEN]

One of the highlights of the entire event was how the influence of one member's recommendation to buy a really cool product.....
A big thanks to Robert (cvette98pacecar) for coming back to the tent and help me spend some $$.....:)

these lug guide tool's for wheels are a easier way to take off and install your wheels on the vehicle, especially if you have aftermarket wheels and calipers. 3 needed per wheel, will be anxious to try them out....
Thank you Robert!!!:)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170828_141950.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170828_141950.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170828_141958.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170828_141958.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170828_142006.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170828_142006.jpg.html)



In the C7 world, these are popular among those with Carbon-Ceramic brake rotors that come on the Z07 package or can be ordered separately now. Too often a tech removing or replacing wheels will slip and chip the edge of the rotor. Rotor is toast, cough up $2,000 or so. As a result, many are packing the lug nut guides in their cars for when they need to have a tire replaced or a wheel removed for any reason. --Bob

[Mystic ZR-1]

No, not really....the way it was explained and it does make sense is that if you only used one lug guide tool, then the weight of the wheel would lean down and possibly damage those nice calipers you have. And also you lose leverage to say the least. With three, it makes it so much easier to "slide" the wheel on and know that it will be lined up perfectly to accept two of the lug nuts with no problem.....I bought 3 as recommended....can't wait to try them out.....:)

Tom
Ya shoulda bought 5!
Maybe 20?
😀

[Roadster]

Tom
Ya shoulda bought 5!
Maybe 20?
😀

Lol.....hey Doug, I'm getting old, what can I say!!! every little bit helps...:)

[BigJohn]

Lol.....hey Doug, I'm getting old, what can I say!!! every little bit helps...:)

I think they would look cool as lug nuts!!

:-D

[Roadster]

I think they would look cool as lug nuts!!

:-D
Especially on Big Trucks.....[emoji2]

Sent from my SM-G935P using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[HAWAIIZR-1]

One of the highlights of the entire event was how the influence of one member's recommendation to buy a really cool product.....
A big thanks to Robert (cvette98pacecar) for coming back to the tent and help me spend some $$.....:)

these lug guide tool's for wheels are a easier way to take off and install your wheels on the vehicle, especially if you have aftermarket wheels and calipers. 3 needed per wheel, will be anxious to try them out....
Thank you Robert!!!:)


Thanks for sharing Tom! I'm all over these and ordered a set today! :cheers:

[Roadster]

Thanks for sharing Tom! I'm all over these and ordered a set today! :cheers:

No problem Craig, but the real thanks goes to Robert DeMarco who showed them to a few of us at the time when he returned to the tent. Otherwise I wouldn't have know about them to make the purchase......

[Roadster]

Went for a post Carlisle test drive today with the Mrs. to run some errands. Did not hook up the Tech 1, as I did not feel the need to at this time. Making multiple stops along the way in stop and go traffic, the idle was perfect each and every time when at a complete stop. And that was getting into it when space allowed just to bring the r's up a bit and then wait for the result when stopped. Right now I can say that no more tweaks are needed, but you never know. But also right now I can say that "TB removal and then some!!!" has been a big success....and that is a good thing......:dancing:-D

[Roadster]

I have another driving update.....but before my review, I am sure we would like to offer prayers and thoughts for people who are or were in the path of the hurricanes, and especially those who lost their lives.... may everyone remain as safe as possible.....


Went out to the 74 today, and met with my high school buddy Paul, who has been helping out with the 74. But today's trip was planned a little different. Paul, who enjoys building car models is now going to build a 94 ZR-1 model kit. So he wanted to get as many pics up close to make sure he builds it correctly.
So we go for a ride in the ZR-1....but more on that later......

My review of today's ride is nothing short of being amazing, to say I am extremely satisfied would be an understatement of major proportions. I feel the need to repeat myself, so I will!!!
The 94 ran fantastic and I now do use 6th gear on the highway. I know many members do not use 6th gear for various reasons and when I first bought the Z three and a half years ago, I also had questions about using 6th gear. At that time, 6th gear at highway speeds seemed very sluggish, and at times on easy acceleration, the engine would lug, almost to the point of demanding a downshift to 5th or 4th gear. And on top of that the engine temp would rise enough to start being concerned, as per the water pump not spinning as much.
Well since after the recent plenum pull with multiple items addressed, and as mentioned on the recent Carlisle trip a few weeks ago, for me 6th gear is the way to go on the highway.
I will explain, I can now cruise anywhere from 65 mph and above without feeling the need to downshift to a lower gear, except in a concerned passing move or other safety factor. I can now cruise about 1700 rpm's at 65, and 1800 to 1900 rpm's at 70 mph and above effortlessly. This is on flat roads, inclines, and whatever is in front of me. I climbed a decent incline at 70 mph today, and held my speed without any problem the entire climb. And no pinging, no lugging from or on the engine. I can pass anyone at will in 6th gear with enough power, no problem. So I used 6th gear on the way out and on the way back, so for me 6th gear is very usable....but that's JMO.
What made 6th gear feel so different now as compared to before???
Could be the replacement of #8 spark plug wire from the ohm test?
Could it be securing #7 coil tower wire to the coil?
Could it be addressing anything that was found?
Could be the new spark plugs?
Could it be that the LT5 runs perfect compared to before?
Or could it be one or more of the above along with other items not listed that now is the result of a usable 6th gear? The answer is....I don't know and may never know.....but all I do know now is that I am a very happy driver, to say the least.

Now with my buddy Paul and the ZR-1. We went for a ride and it was different from the first time he rode in the Z. And that was before the first plenum pull back in January when we found that the secondaries were not operating properly. So today, he was even more amazed than he was before. He in fact said "this thing is a "Beast" and proceeded to say it doesn't pull like a freight train, oh no, it's like a high speed train that keeps on going"
So I ask him if he would like to drive the "Beast", and of course the grin was, well you know!!! A whole different perspective from the driver's seat as opposed to riding in the passenger seat.......for sure!!! He just couldn't get over the feel, the acceleration, the control, and how smooth it all came together....needless to say, the grin on his face was the best compliment one could give when driving one of our ZR-1's.

And I must add that the idle is still perfect.....I just can't thank everyone enough along the way to getting this task accomplished. It was and still is a really true learning experience, and I am very thankful for that!!!

pics from today....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170907_135156.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170907_135156.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170907_135232.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170907_135232.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170907_135249.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170907_135249.jpg.html)

[efnfast]

Tom, what are you running for rear end gears?
I've got 3.73's and have never had any issues in 6th. I usually don't use 6th below 60.
Glad to hear she's running soooo gooood.- Steve

[Roadster]

Tom, what are you running for rear end gears?
I've got 3.73's and have never had any issues in 6th. I usually don't use 6th below 60.
Glad to hear she's running soooo gooood.- Steve


Steve, I'm just running the stock gears, 3.42 IIRC. In some of my very early threads where I brought up the lack of power, the higher engine temps, the lugging of the engine in 6th gear, is when some members mentioned that they felt 6th gear was a useless gear unless you had a lower ratio like your 3.73 or a 4.10 gear. Which then made 6th a more usable gear on the highway. And like yourself, I only use 6th 65 or above, whereas before I stayed in 5th 99% of the time.
The way mine is running now, I feel it is a perfectly well balanced machine for me with the performance, the ride and the handling. I couldn't be happier, all I need to do now is more detail work in the interior, under the hood and the suspension.:)

Btw, would be great if you and the Mrs. could make Gettysburg in Oct.:)

[efnfast]

Glad to hear all is well.
Wife isn't very interested in Gettysburg, I'll see what I can do.

[Roadster]

Glad to hear all is well.
Wife isn't very interested in Gettysburg, I'll see what I can do.

Thanks Steve.....
Hope she will change her mind, we already booked a room for overnight. We have been there numerous times over the years, and my wife is a Civil War buff. It will be a fun time, especially with a ZR-1 caravan!!!:)

[Roadster]

So from my earlier post where my lifelong high school friend Paul went for a ride and drive in the ZR-1 yesterday. His second ride, but his first drive, and he did a write up in Fantasy Garage II on his ZR-1 experience......
Thanks Paul for the story!!!

"So, yesterday this happened: our good friend Tom Mattera brought his 94 ZR-1 down to my area where we are working on rebuilding his 74 454 Vette. We took some pics of the ZR-1 for my files and then we went for a ride in the ZR-1. Tom has recently done some work to the engine, including getting the secondaries to work properly. Well, the car was a mighty beast before all this, but now it's just maniacal (in a good way of course).Tom ran the tach up on several back country roads. Unbelievable torque!!! Then a magical moment when he asked if I wanted to drive. Silly question :)). I could not wipe the smile off my face. When i put my foot on the happy pedal, all hell broke loose and I actually started laughing out loud. Just wow, wow & then some more wow. I actually thought this car accelerated better than the CTS-v I recently manhandled. Looking forward to more drives. Thanx Tom!!!"

[Roadster]

The end of vacation update.....so we get back home and get everything squared away and it's time to start the 94. Uncover the car and it starts right up, except for one minor problem......the battery light is on the DIC and the volts are only registering 12.1v So the battery is over 5 years old, purchased by a PO in 2012 and I had intentions of changing it out this Fall anyway. Found a Bosch on sale at the auto store and make the switch. Btw, the Bosch is heavier than the NAPA it is replacing, so I am assuming it is a heavier duty constructed battery. Start the engine, and the same results. I was thinking maybe alternator, especially form my other thread where some owners have been experiencing very short life with the rebuilt units. I do have extras and will probably try the 200 amp one, even though others have had bad results with said unit. I think Cliff still has success with the 200 amp units that he has installed on his Z's.
But talk about short life.....its only been a few months......:censored:
Looks like I'll be busy tomorrow, although a PIA, especially after the recent plenum pull where I could have easily replaced it. At least this happen in the garage and not out on the road.......:-D
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170916_155445.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170916_155445.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170916_162954.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170916_162954.jpg.html)

[HAWAIIZR-1]

The end of vacation update.....so we get back home and get everything squared away and it's time to start the 94. Uncover the car and it starts right up, except for one minor problem......the battery light is on the DIC and the volts are only registering 12.1v So the battery is over 5 years old, purchased by a PO in 2012 and I had intentions of changing it out this Fall anyway. Found a Bosch on sale at the auto store and make the switch. Btw, the Bosch is heavier than the NAPA it is replacing, so I am assuming it is a heavier duty constructed battery. Start the engine, and the same results. I was thinking maybe alternator, especially form my other thread where some owners have been experiencing very short life with the rebuilt units. I do have extras and will probably try the 200 amp one, even though others have had bad results with said unit. I think Cliff still has success with the 200 amp units that he has installed on his Z's.
But talk about short life.....its only been a few months......:censored:
Looks like I'll be busy tomorrow, although a PIA, especially after the recent plenum pull where I could have easily replaced it. At least this happen in the garage and not out on the road.......:-D
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170916_155445.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170916_155445.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20170916_162954.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20170916_162954.jpg.html)

Sorry to hear about this new issue Tom. My two pennies worth about alternators and my experience is to consider buying the good units from Jerry. He will stand behind what he sells. Best wishes and always good to hear from you.

[lfalzarano]

Get a totally refurbished alternator from Jerry's gaskets and stop wasting your time on rebuilt/fixed old units. And buy s battery tensor if it isn't a daily driver. Or keep wasting money on poor quality low priced recommendations!


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Appreciate the suggestions.....but I'm not wasting my money and I have a battery tender.....:)

I have a few alternators, long story, and one of them is the 200 amp unit mentioned earlier and in another one of my threads.....
So I switch out the pulley, spacers and fan and I'm ready to go.....finally wrapped things up between snacks and some drinks (water, lol) and now the big moment.....engine starts and it charges......woohoo!!!
Check the volts and I am pegged at 14.5v and it stays there.....put the AC on and it doesn't move.....put the lights on and it goes down to 14.3v and stays there.....dipped to 14.1 and then back to 14.3v Did a hot restart and 14.3v and stays there......noticed my interior lights are brighter than they were before......
With the old setup when started volts would go up to 15.1v-15.2v before settling down.....so I think I have a big improvement over what I had......going for an actual test drive after the clean up......:)

[Roadster]

Well when things happen, they happen......after changing out the battery and the alternator, I decided to remove some of the white grease on the throttle plates.....might not be the wisest decision I made!!!
Noticed after that, the idle crept up some, not like before up to 1100 rpm's when stopped, but more like 800-900 rpm's. Almost the same situation, if I let the clutch out some, the idle would drop. Or if I'm at a stop and I blip the throttle slightly, it will drop down. So today I put the Tech 1 on to check my IAC's and once again they are @ "0" at idle. And this time with any acceleration, they go as high as 16-17 and that is it. Other than that the engine is running great, no problem going through the gears and getting the secondaries to open up.
I even swapped out another IAC and the same result. So kind of back to square one to a point, have to get out the FSM and try to figure out what is going on. Also setting the min-air screw did not really have an effect on the idle one way or another, it just stays the same......around 725 r's or so until I drive and come to a stop.....

[Roadster]

So last night I remove the air horn and do another mini application of the dag and let it sit overnight.....throttle plates stuck this morning so opened them up and apply some white grease.....throttle plates now moving freely.......put everything back together and start the engine. IAC's are now @30 in open loop and gradually come down as the engine warms up. They slowly come down and in closed loop they are @12. Idle is decent around 750 and above....so I think this may be working out.....not so, back out of the garage and IAC's fall to "0" @idle. Make adjustment to min-air screw.....no change in idle or IAC count. Go for a ride and engine runs great......at a stop idle is 800 r's or higher and count still @0. Again going through the gears the IAC count does not go above 17. Come back and make another adjustment and get same results. I do notice however when I work the throttle at the TB itself and just touch it so slightly that the IAC's climb instantly.
For now I can live with this and looks like a winter project coming up. Apparently there is some air getting through the secondary blades or maybe the primary blade is open too much and there is no adjustment left. I do remember that when I first started with the TB, that there was what appears to have been some "dag" or other substance on the primary blade. This may have been an issue for one of the PO's or maybe it was from the factory, who knows!!!
I may attempt to "dag" the primary blade and see what happens.....sure it may stall, but I have nothing to loose by trying it.....the only thing I still am having a hard time understanding is why the IAC counts only go up to 17 no matter how much I accelerate.....and has absolutely no effect on engine performance what-so-ever.......
The learning process continues........:)

[Roadster]

So over a month ago from my last post, feeling frustrated to say the least with my IAC counts.....didn't know what I was going to do.....so we went on the Garage/Gettysburg Cruise and the Z ran just fine. Idle at times was up to 900r's and with a blip of the throttle, came back down to 650 or so....
Fast forward to today.....first I had only one bolt securing the EGR to the plenum, as the other bolt dropped into never never land.....so I replaced the missing bolt and made sure to tighten up all connections which I always do on a periodic basis. This time I noticed both PCV connections at the plenum took a few turns to tighten up. And I replaced one of the air horn bolts and made sure both were secure. I also noticed that the throttle is not sticking (before the engine is started) like it has at times since I applied the dag.
So I start the engine (first time since the cruise), fires right up and comes down to normal idle. Checking some other things as I let the engine warm up and off I go....outside temp is 48* and crisp....
Stop and go for a few miles with slight acceleration and I notice that the idle is coming back down to around 650r's each and everytime....hmmmm....so I pull over get out the Tech 1....hook it up and what do I see.....an IAC count of 14 @idle. Big change from the last post where it was 0@idle and would not go above a count of 17 when driving. So I keep driving...accelerating bringing the r's up to 6k and above a few times....and everytime I come to a stop, the IAC count is now at 14 @idle. The lowest it went at a complete stop was 12.....it would vary between 12 and 17 count when stopped. And the idle was anywhere from 636-652r's with desired idle @662 rpm's.
So I am assuming that I must have had a slight vacuum leak which is now corrected. And I can't really pinpoint exactly what it was I did to correct the situation. All I can say is....all appears to be just perfect.....for now...:)

[BigJohn]

I bet your missing bolt is hanging out with my 11mm socket!

[Roadster]

Yea....they're probably having a drink of oil together.....😁

Sent from my SM-G935P using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[secondchance]

Don't try to figure out what you did right. Sometimes, best to just say "thank you" and move on.

[Roadster]

I agree.....and the IAC counts made my day.....:)

[Roadster]

Well today I decided to take the ZR-1 out to the 74......temps were ranging from 50-54*.....overall a nice day.....98% highway driving.....so the 125 mile round trip really gave the Z a good run.....as said many times before and confirmed once again today......I absolutely enjoy 6th gear on the highway....rarely if ever using 5th unless really necessary.....traveling @70mph the tach is at about 1700 rpm's....getting up to and holding 80 mph....tach is reading 1900 rpm's.....no stumble.....no lugging the engine what-so-ever even going up slight inclines....in fact no problem with acceleration in 6th as opposed to when I first purchased the car.
Also the coolant temps were holding between 194-197 degrees and rarely got above 200 degrees on the highway on this trip......and yes the outside temps are much lower than the summer temps......

And now the latest update on the idle.......just picture perfect......no matter how I came to a stop......easy.....hard.....downshifting......each and every stop the idle is right in the 650 and above range.....
Just thinking out loud......I think the throttle is "re-broken in" with the dag if that makes any sense....smooth as ever.....had a few blasts in 4th gear and as you well know....acceleration happens very quickly to say the least and you get into that zone with little effort easily......

Owning this now for over 3 1/2 years.....I am more than totally satisfied on how my LT5 runs and performs......as we all know it is so much to drive.....but the next mod will be the Hurst shifter......I know that will even make it more fun than before.......:):dancing

[XfireZ51]

IAC counts are a big "tell". Its the canary in the coal mine. And having good IAC counts at idle ie 8-18 but preferably in the 12-15 range, does a lot for smoother idle and no stalling.

[Ccmano]

Well today I decided to take the ZR-1 out to the 74......temps were ranging from 50-54*.....overall a nice day.....98% highway driving.....so the 125 mile round trip really gave the Z a good run.....as said many times before and confirmed once again today......I absolutely enjoy 6th gear on the highway....rarely if ever using 5th unless really necessary.....traveling @70mph the tach is at about 1700 rpm's....getting up to and holding 80 mph....tach is reading 1900 rpm's.....no stumble.....no lugging the engine what-so-ever even going up slight inclines....in fact no problem with acceleration in 6th as opposed to when I first purchased the car.
Also the coolant temps were holding between 194-197 degrees and rarely got above 200 degrees on the highway on this trip......and yes the outside temps are much lower than the summer temps......

And now the latest update on the idle.......just picture perfect......no matter how I came to a stop......easy.....hard.....downshifting......each and every stop the idle is right in the 650 and above range.....
Just thinking out loud......I think the throttle is "re-broken in" with the dag if that makes any sense....smooth as ever.....had a few blasts in 4th gear and as you well know....acceleration happens very quickly to say the least and you get into that zone with little effort easily......

Owning this now for over 3 1/2 years.....I am more than totally satisfied on how my LT5 runs and performs......as we all know it is so much to drive.....but the next mod will be the Hurst shifter......I know that will even make it more fun than before.......:):dancing

Congrats! All the hard work paid off.

The Hurst is a pain in the *** to install especially with the trans in the car. I’ve done several. Just did the current one a couple weeks ago, but that was with the trans out. Worth every frustrating minute though. After you install a short shifter, shifting a stock unit seems like rowing a boat.
H
:cheers:

[XfireZ51]

Congrats! All the hard work paid off.

The Hurst is a pain in the *** to install especially with the trans in the car. I’ve done several. Just did the current one a couple weeks ago, but that was with the trans out. Worth every frustrating minute though. After you install a short shifter, shifting a stock unit seems like rowing a boat.
H
:cheers:

My son has driven a 350Z for over 7 years. But when I give him the keys to my ZR, he LOVES the positive, mechanical snic, snic of the Hurst on a ZF-6.

[Ccmano]

Oh and word of advice on the Hurst install. Before installing the new shifter into the gimble sand the powder coat off the two sides that engage the gimble. Every one I have done has had too tight a fit because of the powder coat. Makes the shifter somewhat sticky before it breaks if you don’t.
H
:cheers:

[Roadster]

IAC counts are a big "tell". Its the canary in the coal mine. And having good IAC counts at idle ie 8-18 but preferably in the 12-15 range, does a lot for smoother idle and no stalling.

Yes.....feeling rather lucky that my IAC's vary between 12-17 as mentioned....but more @12-14......does put a smile on my face.....I know many of you have some great mods done with porting....cam changes and more....but for me....I am really enjoying how the LT5 performs in its stock form....and for now.....that is just fine with me......:)

Congrats! All the hard work paid off.

The Hurst is a pain in the *** to install especially with the trans in the car. I’ve done several. Just did the current one a couple weeks ago, but that was with the trans out. Worth every frustrating minute though. After you install a short shifter, shifting a stock unit seems like rowing a boat.
H
:cheers:

Oh and word of advice on the Hurst install. Before installing the new shifter into the gimble sand the powder coat off the two sides that engage the gimble. Every one I have done has had too tight a fit because of the powder coat. Makes the shifter somewhat sticky before it breaks if you don’t.
H
:cheers:


Thanks.....yes it is a good feeling to have everything working and performing the way it was designed to......

Yes....I have heard about the Hurst shifter install and thanks for the tip on sanding the powder coat off.....but this will be a WAZOO job when it can fit into a future WMD to be determined.....I have sat in quite a few members Z's with different shifters and yes....what a big difference from stock.....I know it will give the vehicle a whole new feel.....:):-D

[KFoster]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171221/a0224df71d22a8869aa9bd3e516fdadf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171221/069a00ff4a22514c3758010dcd9dfe74.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171221/0f895954457947400a1b91918dcfd66b.jpg

Finally got pics. Opened up the plenum runners and blended the sharp edges in the throttle body. Painted and added a few billet parts. Battery is dead again. Must have been a joint venture between Porsche and Gm on the electrical system. Right door close switch out again. Turns interior lights on when it shuts and off when it opens.


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Had a new development occur today as I was headed to the WAZOO New Years luncheon. Got an early start and everything was going well......until I looked at the coolant temp on the highway.....I noticed the temp was at 159-160* @70mph and above....just hovering there....so I loop around to go back home.....not wanting to chance the over 2 hour drive each way with what may be a sticking thermostat.
Although the outside temp here is 19-21* and I did the TB coolant bypass months ago....I don't think that it have a 40* swing effect on the temp.....
Now getting off the highway and back on local roads......the temp now goes up to operating range.....200* or higher when stopped for a light....but then still drops to 196* and lower to about 187* when moving....and through all of this the engine is running fine.....and the idle remains to be perfect with each stop..
Got back home fine.....now to figure out the problem......:)

[Jagdpanzer]

Never been a fan of drilling holes in thermostats.


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Mystic ZR-1]

Probably the thermostat was stuck open, be thankful it wasn't stuck shut.
Rather have it run too cool then too hot...
Replacing it should solve the problem?
Other than this, Happy New Year Tom!

[Ccmano]

Not sure I would immediately believe the gages. Hook up a scanner, Tech1 or such or get a reading from the other sensor via the HVAC display. Even if the thermostat stuck fully open I would still expect to see correct operating temp once the engine is fully warmed up, even in cold ambient temps.
H
:cheers:

[Roadster]

Never been a fan of drilling holes in thermostats.


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

To my knowledge Phil....I don't think the thermostat has been drilled out.....but don't know for sure.....enjoy those wings.....:)


Probably the thermostat was stuck open, be thankful it wasn't stuck shut.
Rather have it run too cool then too hot...
Replacing it should solve the problem?
Other than this, Happy New Year Tom!

I hear you there Doug.....didn't feel like a tow home would be in order today.....lol was much easier turning around and driving home.....a thermostat replacement may be in order......and a Happy New Year to you also Doug!!! have fun......:)

Not sure I would immediately believe the gages. Hook up a scanner, Tech1 or such or get a reading from the other sensor via the HVAC display. Even if the thermostat stuck fully open I would still expect to see correct operating temp once the engine is fully warmed up, even in cold ambient temps.
H
:cheers:

Lol....and I had the Tech 1 with me....but was more concerned about getting home....lol And both the digital and the analog gauges were reading the same....whether high or low....so I would doubt the readings were false.....but good idea on the Tech 1.....why didn't I think of that.....lol It's just strange that at highway speeds the temp would drop 40*.....and local driving it appears to be normal....but really is not as the temp was dropping at least 10* when driving locally....but then return to normal when sitting at a light....hmmmm....need to sleep on this one.....lol a later afternoon snooze may be in order.....lol:)

[secondchance]

Tom,

About 4 years ago I installed a thermo stat with 3 1/8" holes drilled on the flange. It worked fine during the summer months resulting in about 10 degree drop. As soon as we hit cold weather, at highway speed, she was running at 140. Idling, temp would get up to 190 to 200. I would suspect you have a drilled thermostat also.

[Dynomite]

What deg thermostat do you have? Check Coolant Temp using digital readout #16 fan speed. Do NOT drill holes in thermostats.

It does take a long while to warm up all coolant in radiator. The thermostat can get confused during that initial warm up when radiator coolant is so cold. I do not see a problem.

Happy New Year :thumbsup:



Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[XfireZ51]

I installed a Fluidyne several years ago trying to address overhating innsummer w AC on. We put in a 180d thermo w 4 holes. It did as u described. Temps dropped to 150 or so when cruising in 30d ambient. Finally, settled on 2 1/8” holes using 180d thermo. Works perfectly in warm or cold. Hot weather driving,
temps are easily kept within the 187- 198d range. Fans come on at 190 and 192.
Cruising temps are below that. My cal for fans is set so temps are always in
Closed Loop Learn range.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I installed a Fluidyne several years ago trying to address overhating innsummer w AC on. We put in a 180d thermo w 4 holes. It did as u described. Temps dropped to 150 or so when cruising in 30d ambient. Finally, settled on 2 1/8” holes using 180d thermo. Works perfectly in warm or cold. Hot weather driving,

temps are easily kept within the 187- 198d range. Fans come on at 190 and 192.

Cruising temps are below that. My cal for fans is set so temps are always in

Closed Loop Learn range.



Hey Dom,

My new garage is built so my car is coming home tomorrow. One of the first projects is the Fluidyne radiator I bought before moving here last year. What if I leave the 180 degree thermostat stock w/o drilling even two holes? Did you try your Fluidyne radiator with stock thermostat?

Thanks,
Craig


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[XfireZ51]

Craig,

My interest in better cooling was due to use of AC in hot weather traffic. Otherwise not much issue. Plus, w ~550chp, the motor is generating more heat than a stock motor. I would simply install a stock thermo w the Fluidyne. Should be fine.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Craig,

My interest in better cooling was due to use of AC in hot weather traffic. Otherwise not much issue. Plus, w ~550chp, the motor is generating more heat than a stock motor. I would simply install a stock thermo w the Fluidyne. Should be fine.

Thanks for your input. I’ll do some touring this winter, but last summer I had high temps too. Never changed coolant yet in this 95 so time to service and figured the Fluidyne would give me the extra cooling I needed. I guess I can always drill the two 1/8” holes later if needed. My motor is stock other than I’ll install the ported top end and install the headers in next spring. Thanks again.

:cheers:

[A26B]

I've found drilling 1~ 2 holes is generally adequate & helps greatly with overheating in the south & southwest. I've recommended drilling 1~ 2 holes to a lot of customers having cooling problems, but AFTER they follow the process to insure the cooling system is in ideal condition first.

I agree completely with XfireZ51, regarding fan cal & closed loop learn range.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I've found drilling 1~ 2 holes is generally adequate & helps greatly with overheating in the south & southwest. I've recommended drilling 1~ 2 holes to a lot of customers having cooling problems, but AFTER they follow the process to insure the cooling system is in ideal condition first.

I agree completely with XfireZ51, regarding fan cal & closed loop learn range.

Hey Jerry,

Is your recommendation for folks with stock radiator or any radiator? I have only had stock and assumed the Fluidyne would provide better cooling over stock.

Thanks!

[Dynomite]

A couple of hints :p

1. Make sure you have the Haibeck Chip which turns both fans on a 205 deg F and off at 200 deg F. A Stock 95 fans function as follows without the modified chip.

'93 - '95 Primary on at 222 degs. F, off at 212. Secondary on at 230 degs. F, off at 221.
'95 ZR-1 has three fan relays which is different than the earlier years. On the '95 both fans are turned on at half speed at 222 degs. Both fans go on at full speed at 230 degs.

2. Installing the Fluidyne Radiator.
Blocking TB Coolant, Fluidyne Radiator and Thermostats (https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759179)

3. On HOT days keep the rpm above 2,000 rpm to assure your water pump flow is at least 44 gpm Water Pump, Coolant Temperatures, and Coolant (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp.html#post1580070561)

4. I do NOT drill holes in Thermostats.

A 1/8 inch diameter hole in the flange will offer additional flow area of .0123 square inches. Which one such hole will increase the total flow area by .016 or 1.6% (three 1/8 inch diameter holes would increase the flow area by 4.7%). This thinking does not address the change in coefficient of Discharge of such small holes.

Now compared to the normal aging of the thermostat of 15% over several years of use one would be much better off installing a NEW Stant Thermostat gaining 15% flow area as compared to drilling three 1/8 inch holes in an older Stant Thermostat only gaining 4.7% flow area.

Given the LT5 runs Hotter idling at a stop sign than at 2,000 rpm as cited in Item #3 above a much better focus regarding engine Heating would be engine RPM (which relates directly to pressure on the coolant flow through the Stant Thermostat) and not the Stant Thermostat (Old or New).

See item #7 The 180 deg versus the 160 deg thermostat or no thermostat (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-6.html#post1584987828)

[HAWAIIZR-1]

A couple of hints :p

1. Make sure you have the Haibeck Chip which turns both fans on a 205 deg F and off at 200 deg F. A Stock 95 fans function as follows without the modified chip.

'93 - '95 Primary on at 222 degs. F, off at 212. Secondary on at 230 degs. F, off at 221.
'95 ZR-1 has three fan relays which is different than the earlier years. On the '95 both fans are turned on at half speed at 222 degs. Both fans go on at full speed at 230 degs.

2. Installing the Fluidyne Radiator.
Blocking TB Coolant, Fluidyne Radiator and Thermostats (https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-12.html#post1590759179)

3. On HOT days keep the rpm above 2,000 rpm to assure your water pump flow is at least 44 gpm Water Pump, Coolant Temperatures, and Coolant (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp.html#post1580070561)

Thanks for the reminder and tips/tricks Cliff! I have not decided if I will bypass TB with this method or not, but it was sweet on the 90 to remove the plenum dry in minutes.

[XfireZ51]

Thanks for the reminder and tips/tricks Cliff! I have not decided if I will bypass TB with this method or not, but it was sweet on the 90 to remove the plenum dry in minutes.

Craig,

Yes forgot to add thise details. My TB is blocked as are the IH passages.

[A26B]

Hey Jerry,

Is your recommendation for folks with stock radiator or any radiator? I have only had stock and assumed the Fluidyne would provide better cooling over stock.

Thanks!

Hi Craig,
I have no personal experience with the Fluidyne radiator and have never read anything negative about it.

I think for the majority of ZR-1 drivers doing street duty, it would be better than the Ron Davis radiator. The Ron Davis unit is an excellent radiator, designed and built for racing at high speed. Bear in mind, the ZR-1 radiator is 3rd in line for cool air, behind the AC condenser & Oil Cooler, which have the potential to heat up the incoming air, but always impede the air flow to the radiator. Add to the restriction in front of the radiator, 5 cores of a Ron Davis & you have significant air flow restriction.

As mentioned above, the Ron Davis radiator is made for racing.... no AC condenser or oil cooler in front, so all that high speed incoming air gets used through the 5 cores.

As a matter of economics, if you have the OE radiator, it's clean,in good condition and you are having overheating problems, try 1 hole in the thermostat, or 2 at the most & see how it works for you. A little sweat equity but no real cost.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Craig,

Yes forgot to add thise details. My TB is blocked as are the IH passages.

Thanks Dom! I had an additional set of plenum and IHs ported so I might consider doing the IH block while I’m doing the install.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Hi Craig,
I have no personal experience with the Fluidyne radiator and have never read anything negative about it.

I think for the majority of ZR-1 drivers doing street duty, it would be better than the Ron Davis radiator. The Ron Davis unit is an excellent radiator, designed and built for racing at high speed. Bear in mind, the ZR-1 radiator is 3rd in line for cool air, behind the AC condenser & Oil Cooler, which have the potential to heat up the incoming air, but always impede the air flow to the radiator. Add to the restriction in front of the radiator, 5 cores of a Ron Davis & you have significant air flow restriction.

As mentioned above, the Ron Davis radiator is made for racing.... no AC condenser or oil cooler in front, so all that high speed incoming air gets used through the 5 cores.

As a matter of economics, if you have the OE radiator, it's clean,in good condition and you are having overheating problems, try 1 hole in the thermostat, or 2 at the most & see how it works for you. A little sweat equity but no real cost.

Hi Jerry,

Thanks for the feedback and reply. I have been on the move since I acquired 95 #228 so I have not had a chance to service and check cooling system, but got the Fluidyne for trade of couple wheels so I might as well install it. I bought the silicone hoses and clamps from you last year and I have a couple OEM thermostats laying around. The challenge is finding the green coolant for our cars around here. I think a fellow Z owner damaged his LT5 from Toyota red coolant. I remember you sent me the diagram photo of where to drill the holes should I decide to do so. Thanks again for the sound advice as usual. Well, gotta go and install the RaceDeck flooring I bought from Mom!

Craig

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Had a new development occur today as I was headed to the WAZOO New Years luncheon. Got an early start and everything was going well......until I looked at the coolant temp on the highway.....I noticed the temp was at 159-160* @70mph and above....just hovering there....so I loop around to go back home.....not wanting to chance the over 2 hour drive each way with what may be a sticking thermostat.
Although the outside temp here is 19-21* and I did the TB coolant bypass months ago....I don't think that it have a 40* swing effect on the temp.....
Now getting off the highway and back on local roads......the temp now goes up to operating range.....200* or higher when stopped for a light....but then still drops to 196* and lower to about 187* when moving....and through all of this the engine is running fine.....and the idle remains to be perfect with each stop..
Got back home fine.....now to figure out the problem......:)


Tom,
I am not certain that anything is really wrong.
On 50 degree mornings, my car runs in the 170's from home almost to the shore, over 50 miles. Upper 70's when stopped; lower, almost 169 when doing 75.
No holes drilled, and a 180 stat.

The past few days have been in the teens and 20's. Flying along in those temps could keep you down where you experienced.

Don't go crazy yet.
Wait and see how it is when it is at least 50-60 outside.

We have been working on a 71 LT-1.
Left it idling for half an hour; 130 degrees.
Changed the stat from 160- 180 as we had no idea how old the one in there was.
It has come up to 150, but no higher, all with a verified gauge.

Some cooling systems simply are very efficient.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your wife!
Stop down sometime!!!
Marty

[Roadster]

Tom,

About 4 years ago I installed a thermo stat with 3 1/8" holes drilled on the flange. It worked fine during the summer months resulting in about 10 degree drop. As soon as we hit cold weather, at highway speed, she was running at 140. Idling, temp would get up to 190 to 200. I would suspect you have a drilled thermostat also.

Yun,
Having not driven the ZR-1 on the highway in extreme weather like yesterday during previous winters.....I don't recall the temps being that low on the highway.....I can't say for sure if or what, if anything was done to the thermostat.....but conditions were just like you described....I was just being concerned....lol.....you think after all the years of driving a big truck....I would remember how drivers would cover the radiator grilles and have only a small opening to limit the air flow to the radiator to keep the temps up during the winter months....I need to go back to Cooling 101....lol and take a refresher course.....:)


What deg thermostat do you have? Check Coolant Temp using digital readout #16 fan speed. Do NOT drill holes in thermostats.

It does take a long while to warm up all coolant in radiator. The thermostat can get confused during that initial warm up when radiator coolant is so cold. I do not see a problem.

Happy New Year :thumbsup:


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

I can't say for sure what deg thermostat I have Cliff.....but I assume it is the stock unit....

I always let the LT5 "warm-up" before driving down the road.....and noticed that in the 19* weather it did take longer than usual before getting up to operating temps.....
There was not anything unusual driving.....but since it is the LT5.....just more concerned.....lol as I want it to run perfect all of the time....:)
Feeling better that it seems this is normal operation in extreme temps....

Happy New Year to you also......:handshak:


I installed a Fluidyne several years ago trying to address overhating innsummer w AC on. We put in a 180d thermo w 4 holes. It did as u described. Temps dropped to 150 or so when cruising in 30d ambient. Finally, settled on 2 1/8” holes using 180d thermo. Works perfectly in warm or cold. Hot weather driving,
temps are easily kept within the 187- 198d range. Fans come on at 190 and 192.
Cruising temps are below that. My cal for fans is set so temps are always in
Closed Loop Learn range.

I have Marc's chip.....so the fans come on @205* and turn off @200* as mentioned....but in previous years during the extreme cold weather...... I would just start the Z and back it out of the garage and let it "warm-up" for 20 minutes or so and then drive it around the block a few times to get everything lubricated.....

With everything being said.....I would imagine that my cooling system is operating at peak efficiency.....based on all of the replies posted.....:)

[Roadster]

Tom,
I am not certain that anything is really wrong.
On 50 degree mornings, my car runs in the 170's from home almost to the shore, over 50 miles. Upper 70's when stopped; lower, almost 169 when doing 75.
No holes drilled, and a 180 stat.

The past few days have been in the teens and 20's. Flying along in those temps could keep you down where you experienced.

Don't go crazy yet.
Wait and see how it is when it is at least 50-60 outside.

We have been working on a 71 LT-1.
Left it idling for half an hour; 130 degrees.
Changed the stat from 160- 180 as we had no idea how old the one in there was.
It has come up to 150, but no higher, all with a verified gauge.

Some cooling systems simply are very efficient.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your wife!
Stop down sometime!!!
Marty

Thanks for the reply Marty......is seems like everyone is in agreement that there is nothing wrong with my cooling system.....which is a good thing.....lol
And the fact that your runs similar to mine as you described and without a drilled thermostat......

And yes quite cold in our area and for most of this week.....

Interesting about the LT-1......I guess we can come to the conclusion that extreme cold temps plays havoc on the cooling temps....


And thanks.....Merry Christmas & Happy New Year to you and your family also......
I will stop down soon.....will give you a call and we'll set up a time....:-D

[XfireZ51]

Sorry Marty, but there’s no way GM would allow the car to run at anything below the point where the ECM is not LEARNING and modifying the fueling for BLMs. No matter what the conditions. That’s part of what cold weather testing is all about.
The coolant needs to be at >80C for that. Anything below that for other than warmup is not what the calibration is looking for. That doesn’t mean it won’t run but it defeats the whole point of Closed Loop operation.

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Sorry Marty, but there’s no way GM would allow the car to run at anything below the point where the ECM is not LEARNING and modifying the fueling for BLMs. No matter what the conditions. That’s part of what cold weather testing is all about.
The coolant needs to be at >80C for that. Anything below that for other than warmup is not what the calibration is looking for. That doesn’t mean it won’t run but it defeats the whole point of Closed Loop operation.

Well I guess I should expect a recall notice then.

The car feels MUCH stronger at 170 degrees.

I am no engineer, but it has behaved that way for 20 years, and I am good with it.

I won't tell GM, so let's keep it a secret.
:cheers:
Marty

[XfireZ51]

Well I guess I should expect a recall notice then.

The car feels MUCH stronger at 170 degrees.

I am no engineer, but it has behaved that way for 20 years, and I am good with it.

I won't tell GM, so let's keep it a secret.
:cheers:
Marty

Most of that were “tricks” to fool the ECM. The issue involves emissions, mpg et al. Not a question of performance which really deals w Open Loop. I’m just stating fact on how the calibration works not making a judgement call.

[Dynomite]

I am with Marty and I have LT5 secrets I explore in public for sanity checks and I welcome ALL Comments :thumbsup:
I have been called an Engineer....sometimes......:p


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[XfireZ51]

I am with Marty and I have LT5 secrets I explore in public for sanity checks and I welcome ALL Comments :thumbsup:
I have been called an Engineer....sometimes......:p


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

Cliff,

I got a few secrets of my own.

[Roadster]

Minor update today......42* out.......took the 94 out for a countryside run.....some nice back roads.....no actual highway driving today.....felt real good.....temps were operating as they normally do......everything went fine...
so as many have mentioned above.....apparently there is nothing wrong with my cooling system...and the results I experienced that day were due to the extreme frigid temps and the highway driving speeds on the highway.......contributing to the cooling temps I saw......:-D

[Roadster]

Went to HD today for 8ft shop light bulbs......and across the isle were the fire extinguishes......the lighting worker there told me that they just came in....so I made another purchase.....here is the info for those interested.....
A nice compact extinguisher for "Autos".....good for 12 years or one time use.......6 year warranty....all for $17.88
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20180120_201703.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20180120_201703.jpg.html)
DOT approved.....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20180120_201730.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20180120_201730.jpg.html)
great size IMO.....will fit nice in the ZR-1
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20180120_201820.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20180120_201820.jpg.html)
FYI.....check the bottom of your extinguisher before purchasing as I was told.....the date of manufacture is right there....here you see 2018....brand new and current.....can't do better than that.....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20180120_201833.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20180120_201833.jpg.html)

[XfireZ51]

Very cool. I have a HD kitty corner from me.

[BigJohn]

Tom what is HD?
The only HD I know is Harley Davidson.

[XfireZ51]

Tom what is HD?
The only HD I know is Harley Davidson.

Home Depot.

[Roadster]

Tom what is HD?
The only HD I know is Harley Davidson.

Home Depot.

Sorry Big John......I should have known......;) Dom knows......:-D

[BigJohn]

Cool that is where I purchase ice melt and lightbulbs.
I find their lumber of poor quality!

[Roadster]

Don't buy the lumber.....[emoji16]

Also a nice feature is the plastic bracket.....when locked makes for the extinguisher to stay "flat" and not slide allover wherever stored...when the vehicle is in motion....also size comparison with my garage unit....
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180121/61297fc09899158565eaf5353ec52289.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180121/51d5e801b64487ded9f7371b58a1cd3a.jpg

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

[Roadster]

To nice of a day not to take the ZR-1 out for a ride......temps were up to 79* here today.....running great as it has been.......idle is still perfect each and everytime coming to a complete stop.....so no issues there.....hopefully I'll never have to touch the TB again......lol:)

With all of the chat about the clutch neutral safety switch......since I am not one for cutting into the harness to bypass the switch......decided to pick up a spare.....just in case.....always better to have than not to have......
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20180221_194726.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20180221_194726.jpg.html)

[gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz]

Glad to hear all is well you must be pleased that all your hard work has paid off
Glen Collins

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[Roadster]

Glad to hear all is well you must be pleased that all your hard work has paid off
Glen Collins

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Thanks Glen......it just makes driving the Z so much more enjoyable... knowing that everything appears to be performing as it should......so far....so good!!!

[Roadster]

Another fun ride yesterday.....everything functioning as normal.....all operating temps are where they should be.....idle is still perfect when completely stopped...:-D
wiped down the Z.....a little detail on the wheels and covered.....ready for the snow.....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20180320_120654.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20180320_120654.jpg.html)
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/received_967869000035205.jpeg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/received_967869000035205.jpeg.html)

[Roadster]

[/QUOTE]Referring to the part of the title...." and then some"..... here is the latest addition to the garage.....
An early Birthday present to myself..... along with donations from the family......will now have AC in the garage... will be able to work in comfort.....

[emoji16][emoji16]7384

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

[BigJohn]

Very nice 👍🏿
Now we can go driving.

[Flyman 27]

Went to HD today for 8ft shop light bulbs......and across the isle were the fire extinguishes......the lighting worker there told me that they just came in....so I made another purchase.....here is the info for those interested.....
A nice compact extinguisher for "Autos".....good for 12 years or one time use.......6 year warranty....all for $17.88
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20180120_201703.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20180120_201703.jpg.html)
DOT approved.....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20180120_201730.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20180120_201730.jpg.html)
great size IMO.....will fit nice in the ZR-1
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20180120_201820.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20180120_201820.jpg.html)
FYI.....check the bottom of your extinguisher before purchasing as I was told.....the date of manufacture is right there....here you see 2018....brand new and current.....can't do better than that.....
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p138/SSROADSTER/94%20ZR-1/20180120_201833.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/SSROADSTER/media/94%20ZR-1/20180120_201833.jpg.html)

Dry chemical fire extinguishers are cheap, but if you use them they will make a god awful mess of your car and garage. Dry chemical goes everywhere & is really, really hard to clean up. The chemicals waft through doorways & spread everywhere. Plus it will permanently damage electronics....
I went another route and purchased a large 10# CO2 fire extinguisher for the garage & a 5# CO2 for the kitchen. CO2 dissipates into the air and leaves no residue of any kind (no chemical clean up). It also does not hurt electronics. The only damage you will have is from the fire.
The CO2 extinguishers are more expensive, but they will save you thousands in clean up if you ever have to use them.
Many years ago I used a dry chemical fire extinguisher to extinguish an engine fire, it was a very expensive mistake....

[Flyman 27]

If anyone is interested, this is by far the cheapest place I found to get the CO2 fire extinguishers:

https://www.webstaurantstore.com/buckeye-10-lb-carbon-dioxide-bc-fire-extinguisher-rechargeable-untagged-ul-rating-10-b-c/47245600.html

Shipping is not real cheap because they are a pressurized gas & there are limited ways to ship them. I also purchased a really nice "boat" mount that is child resistant for only $30 more.

[Roadster]

Ever since I've owned the 94.....my AC has never been really cold and sometimes it just felt like regular outside air coming through the vents......just never got around to checking things out.....until now....
My compressor doesn't engage at all.....(I have not jumped the switch).....although the AC clutch turns freely inside the pulley..
And I don't have the "low freon" code.....so I did some research and decided to change out the AC clutch bearing..... I have also noticed for about the last 6 times or so that I used the Z.....that upon startup I was hearing a bearing noise that would last for a few minutes and then disappear..... I thought maybe it was the water pump....but no leaks there....and it wasn't the alternator.....so I'm thinking could it be the AC clutch bearing....
I figure try that first without removing the plenum....and if that doesn't work....well then...... I would assume some other parts may be defective.....or the compressor would be shot......
So here are some pics of the removal of the parts necessary to get to the clutch bearing......
In pic #1 & 2....
I had to figure out the best way to lock the compressor in order to remove the 10mm bolt in the center of the pulley....as you can see a large vise grips was used to keep anything from moving......and a 1/4 ratchet and 10mm socket to undo the bolt....as you know.....there is very little room to maneuver anything in that space.....
Pic #3 shows the AC clutch removed....and you may also be able to see a snap ring in place to keep the pulley secured......
In pic #4......it is highly unlikely that the pulley will just slide off with hand pressure....so again with limited space I used the 2 hammer method.....rotating the pulley after a few hammer taps....it finally slid off.....7781778277837784

Sent from my SM-G935P using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Pics #1 & 2 show the parts on the bench and both sides of the bearing....
Pic #3 shows a close up.....which appears to be the original bearing.....
Pic #4 & 5 show the new replacement bearing that will be installed....
And pic #6 shows the coil which looks to be in fine shape.....not melted or destroyed like from what I read......could happen and it is a real possibility.....so I lucked out....

I don't have any AC knowledge.....so I'm learning as I go....
Next is to punch out the old bearing and install the new one....and hopefully that will correct the issue.....we shall see.....[emoji16][emoji16]778577867787778877897790

Sent from my SM-G935P using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Finally got bearing out today after a soak overnight with WD40.....new bearing went in just fine.....used some Loctite to make sure it stays in place...
Another option for bearing install would have been to put the bearing in the freezer for a few hours to contract.....and then slightly heat up the inside of the pulley evenly with a small torch to expand.... and the bearing will (should) drop right in....
Also old bearing was shot.....just plain worn out...... finish the install tomorrow......the compressor should now work......77977798

Sent from my SM-G935P using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[XfireZ51]

I know u are trying to avoid removing the plenum, but have u checked the ac clutch harness connector? They are notorious for cracking and disintegrating.

[mgbrv8]

If you go back through the heart of the beast articles I did an extensive rebuild on the AC system for our cars and how to rebuild the AC compressor

[Roadster]

I know u are trying to avoid removing the plenum, but have u checked the ac clutch harness connector? They are notorious for cracking and disintegrating.

FWIR......when I did the plenum pull last summer......all appeared to be in good shape.....of course if this bearing replacement doesn't correct the problem....then I will have to look elsewhere.....I do have a kit to rebuild the compressor if necessary and would then be checking the clutch harness connector as you suggest......but right now I am leaning to the clutch bearing....you could really feel the difference between the two......so hopefully this is the answer......

[Roadster]

If you go back through the heart of the beast articles I did an extensive rebuild on the AC system for our cars and how to rebuild the AC compressor

Dave.....I did read that article before.....which is excellent and that is what prompted me to purchase the rebuild kit mentioned in the above post.....but I'm hoping that the clutch bearing replacement will be the answer.....I will know tomorrow for sure...….:)

[mgbrv8]

If you need any help please feel free to send me a message and we can set up a call I’ll be happy to what I can.

Dave

[Roadster]

If you need any help please feel free to send me a message and we can set up a call I’ll be happy to what I can.

Dave

Thanks Dave.....it is appreciated.....:) If I run into a problem....I will take you up on the offer.....:)

[Roadster]

Well Dave....looks like I'll take you up on that offer.....will send you a PM....
Partial success today.....in that everything went back together......AC clutch seems to rotate all of the time now.....and although the air in the cabin was cool when I first started the engine.....it was just warm....freon gauge shows that I might be overfilled......and there is slight noise being heard now.....low pressure tube is not cold to the touch.....


Sent from my SM-G935P using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Well it's been awhile since I've posted up....I haven't run or evan started the 94 since last June....ever since I did a number on the AC Compressor...

Have a new one ready to install and noticed when I slightly lifted the plenum....the gaskets ripped on both sides....kind of disappointed with that as they only had a few thousand miles on them..

Ended up pulling the plenum completely....will order new gaskets or reuse my originals....[emoji849][emoji16]9601960296039604

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[G8nightman]

Defiantly get new ones


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Started working on the 94 again and made some progress.....the radiator should is ready to come out....those 6 screws were a PIA as many have mentioned....did not have to remove anything on the passenger side....but removed items on the driver's side to gain access to those 3 screws...also a chance to clean the leftside well with parts removed...
Done for the day....will remove the shroud tomorrow....just have to remove the small hose connected to the top of the radiator in order to lift the shroud out....determined to get the AC operating once again and to start the engine once again since June of 18....
Still need to change out the accumulator....check the condenser and the radiator and I guess the oil cooler...
Making progress....[emoji16][emoji16]
In the pics below...
Horn cleaned....
I imagine the next pics are a vacuum tank.....cleaned....
102461024710248102491025010251

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

More parts cleaned....
The AIR pump....also some parts #'s shown for future reference....102521025310254102551025610257

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Inside the left front well....
Before cleaning and first preliminary cleaning....should come up good after I'm finished....
All 6 side screws out....
Some of the wrenches needed to do the job....would have been a breeze for the top screws on both sides with a 7mm ratchet wrench....but couldn't find one locally....also 9/32" socket or wrench will also work....
Was too hot to go out to the 74....so the portable garage AC unit did good in the above 90 degree temps today...garage was in the low 80's and comfortable....[emoji16][emoji16]102581025910260102611026210263

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Progress made today.....shroud is out with the help of my wife.....once we cleared the hood hinge support on the driver's side....it was just a matter of getting the correct angle on the passenger side.....a few tries and it slid right out...
There was and is some debris in there....but not bad for 70,000 miles...will need a good cleaning....
Interesting factory markings on the shroud....might still have to undo the fan setup to gain full access to the accumulator.....going to see if I can wiggle around it....
Fins on both the condenser and the radiator look to be in excellent shape...
I imagine the oil cooler is just as good...more cleaning to do....and then reassembly to follow.....[emoji16][emoji16]102691027010271102721027310274

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

More progress today.....oil cooler lines came off with my removal tools shown in the pics....have a new set coming from Jerry's.....but might leave the fittings in the block...
Everything has to be cleaned and the bent fins at the bottom of the cooler can be straighten out....still deciding if I am going to replace the AC condenser with the new one I have....or just get the original pressure tested....
Will most likely continue on and take the radiator out since I am in it this far and replace all of the hoses....this will also make changing out the accumulator real easy....as I'll also remove the fans and the crossover pipe for a thorough cleaning and paint touch up where needed.....my thermostat is or was working fine and I found out the reason I had a major temp spike on the turnpike from a few years ago....as there was a huge plastic bag that got sucked up into the front of the condenser...therefore blocking any air flow through the system....
Some pics...

102851028610287102881028910290

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Old vs new....102911029210293

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Just removed the oil from the oil cooler and from my markings on the container....it appears that the cooler holds just under a quart of oil....I'm estimating that I have about 27-28 oz of oil in this container.....
Talk about being dark....this oil is very dark....but did not appear to have any particles mixed in with it....
Thinking about pouring fresh oil in there to slush around and empty....do that for a few times to "clean" it out...
Some fresh paint and will be looking like new....
Second marking in second pic is 16 oz...will have to do a full measure for sure...1029410295

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

First fin revival.....#10 rake is the one...works really well...big difference between pic #1 and the others....10296102971029810299

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Jagdpanzer]

Tom,
Given the way it is designed the oil cooler can be a challenge to thoroughly flush clean of old oil. I’ve had pretty good results filling it with solvent and shaking it multiple times until drained solvent ran clear. A lot of work. Next I have clean one I plan to connect it to a solve vent and let run for couple of hours first.

[Roadster]

Tom,
Given the way it is designed the oil cooler can be a challenge to thoroughly flush clean of old oil. I’ve had pretty good results filling it with solvent and shaking it multiple times until drained solvent ran clear. A lot of work. Next I have clean one I plan to connect it to a solve vent and let run for couple of hours first.

Hello Phil,
To be honest, I didn't even think it would be good to use any type of solvent. What solvent do you recommend???

[Jagdpanzer]

I use mineral spirits from Home Depot

[Roadster]

Thanks Phil, I have used that before, but never thought to use it in the oil cooler. A trip to HD on Sunday.

[Roadster]

Would like to thank Phil for his suggestion of mineral spirits to flush out the oil cooler....worked great....completely cleaned...[emoji16]

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

So taking a suggestion from Jerry to use a 6 point socket or box wrench to remove the oil hose connectors.... I ordered 2 sockets from Amazon....assuming they were metric....I ordered a 28mm and and
29mm 6 point sockets....finally got them this AM....(first set got lost)....
Now this may be common knowledge too many.......the 28mm is too small and the 29mm fits....but not 100% snug fit.....tried the 29mm and just didn't feel right....sprayed down the connectors with PB Blast and then used a 1 1/8" 12 point socket and a 12 point 1 1/8" box wrench (I don't have 6 points in that size)....they both fit perfect and 100% snug....no movement....
So with my trusty hammer....broke both loose and removed...
Again....may be common knowledge...but for those attempting this for the first time....hope this helps...
The following pics show the tools used and I tried to take close ups of how the connector fits in both sockets...
First pic....what I used...
Second pic....the 29mm 6 pt socket...
Third pic....the 11/8" 12 pt socket....103681036910370

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[A26B]

A word to the wise regarding installation of the new fittings; If you use teflon tape, that's OK, BUT teflon significantly reduces the friction of the interference fit of tapered pipe threads. Do not overtighten as it WILL crack the Oil Filter Housing. I have used it for decades and will continue, but you have to know when to quit tightening, especially when screwing large fittings into aluminum castings.

Loctite 565, recommended, is a paste sealant that works well. It is much like a good plumbers thread dope which can also be used. Not quite as slippery as teflon so maybe a bit safer to work with.

[Roadster]

A word to the wise regarding installation of the new fittings; If you use teflon tape, that's OK, BUT teflon significantly reduces the friction of the interference fit of tapered pipe threads. Do not overtighten as it WILL crack the Oil Filter Housing. I have used it for decades and will continue, but you have to know when to quit tightening, especially when screwing large fittings into aluminum castings.

Loctite 565, recommended, is a paste sealant that works well. It is much like a good plumbers thread dope which can also be used. Not quite as slippery as teflon so maybe a bit safer to work with.

Thanks for the tips Jerry.....I am still a little ways from completing the job....still going to remove the radiator....replace the hoses and clean the front of the engine as much as possible....I'll pick up the Loctite 565 or the plumbers thread dope....:)

[Roadster]

More progress today....radiator drained....coolant crossover pipe removed....accumulator and main AC hose set also removed. ..
Stand corrected somewhat on the coolant hose replacements that I have....did a trial fit and they will fit over the pipes....but still appear to be a tad shorter....may just go to the store and see if they can match 2 90* hoses and then I'll cut them to fit....
Also may be common knowledge....but we all know what it's like to remove hoses from the pipes....I spread the hose a little to shoot some PB Blaster inside and work it around.....hose slides off without cutting....
Some pics ...10373103741037510376

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

The coolant pipe hoses . .10377103781037910380

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Amount of Pag oil from my accumulator.....so looks like the evaporator may also be somewhat dry...since the new compressor has 4.1 oz from the factory...and our system requires 8 oz give or take a
.10 .....looks like I'll be adding about 3.8 oz to the new accumulator during the rebuild...which will give me 7.9 oz in the system....[emoji16]10381

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Call around to a few hydraulic hose companies today and even went to see one....apparently no one does automotive lines....as they don't have the ability to crimp the hoses to the tubing....I have one other company to check out....otherwise I will just reuse what I have....my concern was with this one crimp that was worn down from resting again the pipe...blew compressed air through....although not pressurized....and no leaks that can be determined....they are Goodyear USA made hoses and even with the one spot that is worn....still look to be in decent shape...just did a slight cleanup....and will do a respray...and they should do the job...1038210383

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Success.....radiator out....fans next...will get the radiator pressure tested....
I imagine these lower rubber radiator supports are standard C4....are they still available???10384103851038610387

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Mystic ZR-1]

Tom
Not trying to spend your money, but....
Now’s the time to install an all aluminum radiator.
Do you really trust the 25 year old plastic tanks on the original???
Even if it passes a leak test?

[Roadster]

Tom
Not trying to spend your money, but....
Now’s the time to install an all aluminum radiator.
Do you really trust the 25 year old plastic tanks on the original???
Even if it passes a leak test?I hear you Doug....if I do get one....I want to get one that fits like the original....I don't want to do any fab work....the radiator guy I use is very good....I wait and see what he says...
But that will have to wait for another week....we are taking a vaca next week[emoji4]

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

More progress today before taking some time off....fans are out. .and now so is the lower radiator support...
Have to think out my cleaning strategy when we return...next week will give me time to do just that!!!
Broke one of the tabs for the wire loom in pic #3...still useable if unavailable....... but I imagine that they may still be available from the dealer..103931039410395

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Lower radiator shroud is out....10396103971039810399

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Just did a quick wash on the lower shrould....pic #1...the part #....
Pic #2....one of 5 10mm bolts and nut washers that attach the front of the lower shroud to the top of the center air dam.....passenger side in pic #2 & pic #3 does not come out when loosen....it stays in the shrould....as the metal bar shown in pic #3 overlaps that bolt....looks like metal bar in pic #4 took a beating in its earlier days from the front air dam taking some rough bumps....10400104011040210403

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Fans went from looking like this in pic #1 to like this in pic #2....pic #3 shows one of the radiator rubber supports...it appears that this system was removed before....as the front of both rubber supports where the condenser sits....was reformed during installation...as the time wasn't taken to make sure the parts sat correctly in the support....pic #4 shows a first cleaning of the supports...plus you can see how the rubber was deformed...tried in pic #5 to reform the support....but then thought it might work out better as shown in pic #5...#6...& #7.....just taped to the condenser itself....we shall see...will probably go with the poly version...sine the OEM rubber versions are not available...
Also getting the AC Compressor manifold hose assembly repaired...should be completed in a few days...interesting on how they are doing the repair....[emoji16][emoji16]104281042910432104331043410435

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

#710436

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Accumulator holder redone with new accumulator installed....pics #3 & #4 before pics....getting ready for paint...[emoji16]10437104381043910440

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Mystic ZR-1]

Tom
That accumulator will easily polish up like chrome...
😋

[Roadster]

Tom
That accumulator will easily polish up like chrome...
😋

Hello Doug, I don't have any experience with doing that...sounds interesting...
Also ordered a new fan motor, as one of my fans is making a worn bearing noise when turning by hand. And taking your advice for a new radiator...will order one soon....:):)

[Mystic ZR-1]

Just pick up a couple buffs for your electric drill and a stick or 2 of compound
at your local hardware store or Home Depot. Not too much $ and easy to do.
(before you put it in the car...)
Recommend a DeWitts 2 row radiator, 32-1139090M, shop around for best price with free shipping...

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Tom,
I have the proper and new De Witts Radiator in my stash for your car if you need/want it.
90M new in box.

current price 569.00+ ship
less discount for you taking pictures of Ruby at Carlisle for me
Hows $400.00 and a visit?

Let me know.
Marty

[Roadster]

Just pick up a couple buffs for your electric drill and a stick or 2 of compound
at your local hardware store or Home Depot. Not too much $ and easy to do.
(before you put it in the car...)
Recommend a DeWitts 2 row radiator, 32-1139090M, shop around for best price with free shipping...

Thanks or the info....might practice on the old accumulator and see what it looks....copy on the Dewitts….:)

Tom,
I have the proper and new De Witts Radiator in my stash for your car if you need/want it.
90M new in box.

current price 569.00+ ship
less discount for you taking pictures of Ruby at Carlisle for me
Hows $400.00 and a visit?

Let me know.
Marty

Hello Marty, sounds like a great deal.....I'm assuming 1139090M (Manual) is the 2 row unit, and does that have the two plastic aluminum spacer plates and hardware to fit between the shroud and the fan housing?
Glad to take those pics for you.:):)
Even if I didn't purchase, a visit is still in order....just been crazy busy with the 94 and also trying to wrap up the 74 by the end of October.
Thanks, will chat soon....:)
Tom

[Roadster]

Did more fan assembly work today....just thought I would clean everything up and reinstall....but that soon changed....ended up painting everything after the cleaning...
Pic #1....fan assembly apart with replacement fan motor going in...
Pic #2...3 & 4....also pulled other fan assembly apart to paint original motor...

10450104541045510456

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

The one fan bracket or holder that the fan sits in accumulated all of this crud in pics #1 & 2 over the years....took a SOS pad and scrubbed it all down.... pic #3 shows how clean and smooth it came out....and that when I decided to paint....as the finish was really dull after cleaning....104571045810459

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Had to think outside of the box with both sides painted and needing to dry without anything touching in pic #1....worked great.....
Pics #2 & 3 are the fan assembly with the new fan motor installed....came out looking decent....other assembly is almost together......just needs more drying time....104601046110462

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Fan assemblies are completed....debating on whether to refinish the fan shroud....if I go with black...then the finished pattern is gone....have to see if there is a paint that will duplicate the original finish...[emoji16][emoji16]104631046410465

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Mystic ZR-1]

Tom
What do you use the plunger for??? 😋

[BigJohn]

Tom
What do you use the plunger for??? 😋

Sinks , Toilets ,Tubs and Floor Drains!
What do you use them for?

;)

[Mystic ZR-1]

Sinks , Toilets ,Tubs and Floor Drains!
What do you use them for?

;)

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plunger

Big John
We know what you use it for (and other things I won‘t mention...) but I‘m asking Tom and what on the ZR-1 he uses it for... 🤣

[BigJohn]

Tom did you ever find that missing 13mm socket?

[Roadster]

Tom
What do you use the plunger for??? 😋

Doug it's just a photo prop.....:)

Sinks , Toilets ,Tubs and Floor Drains!
What do you use them for?

;)

You never know Big John....has many uses.....lol=D>

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plunger

Big John
We know what you use it for (and other things I won‘t mention...) but I‘m asking Tom and what on the ZR-1 he uses it for... 🤣

Doug....you'll just have to wait and see.....it will be so innovative on the ZR-1 that everyone will be running out to purchase....stay tuned....:)

Tom did you ever find that missing 13mm socket?

No John.....not yet.....might have to turn the car upside down and shake it a few times for it to fall on the floor.....I know it's in there somewhere....;)

[Roadster]

Just picked up my AC manifold hose assembly from being repaired @Kenco Hydraulics in Hatfied PA.
Did a search in my area and they were the only ones to take on the repair.
They did an excellent job and made some improvements at the same time.
You will notice that the accumulator rubber hose is now shorter and there is a slight bend in the metal tube...where there wasn't before.
Also JIC fittings are now implemented into the assembly....making it much easier to clock the connections during reassembly on the car.
Even though the accumulator rubber hose is shorter....measurements were taken beforehand to make sure that the actual length of that part of the assembly were indeed correct.
I think the main concern when reattaching on the car is to make sure that the hose does not rest against the crossover coolant pipe as it did on my engine....causing the wear problem that resulted in repairs.
Again extremely happy with the work that they did. They are also open to doing the same for anyone who needs this type of repair....just let me know and I will give you the info...
As you can see the repaired assembly in the first 3 pics with the replacement hose and the JIC connections....the next 3 pics show the old hose that was cut off and what the end looked like from resting against the coolant crossover pipe for 25 years....104801048110482104831048410485

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Mystic ZR-1]

Tom
What are JIC connections?

[Dynomite]

JIC fittings, defined by the SAE J514 and MIL-DTL-18866 standards, are a type of flare fitting machined with a 37-degree flare seating surface. JIC (Joint Industry Council) fittings are widely used in fuel delivery and fluid power applications, especially where high pressure (up to 10,000 psi) is involved.

[Roadster]

Tom
What are JIC connections?

Doug, what Cliff said.....:) plus being male & female connections.... they allow you to make adjustments to get everything lined up perfectly....
All I know it is going to make it a breeze for install....it was recommended to hook up the compressor then the accumulator then tighten the JIC connection closest to the accumulator and then tighten the JIC connection closest to the compressor....no sealant of any type is required or recommended....:)

[Roadster]

Going through parts today and rearranging the parts room....found something that I misplaced awhile ago....
Will install one day....
NOS RH Tensioner Kit....purchased years ago...
If anyone needs a copy of the instructions....let me know....will be glad to post them up....1049110492

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Just made a run to Harbor Freight to take advantage of expiring coupons....
So check these out...pic #1... this large light on sale with coupon....works really well when under the car or in dim light areas...better than the old drop lights IMO....and it has a magnetic base....the small light also on sale with coupon... works well for many uses...
Pic #2 is the free light that you get with coupon...
And I couldn't pass up pic #3... just what is needed for trips in the Vettes...just in case...I always carry this and that....but this just makes it easier and it was only $5.99 and with my 20% coupon...now $4.79 [emoji16][emoji16]105161051710518

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Figured I run by Ace Hardware to look for 2 bolts for the cooling fan to attach to the fan shroud....I was missing one and those small 7mm head bolts used for the upper and lower radiator shroud attacement....Ace was a bust...went over to Lowes which has a better Hillman Automotive selection than HD....IMO and found exactly what needed...
Also received my shipment of rosebud clips for the fan conduit harness connection to the fan shroud....success...[emoji16]
Pic #1 is the bolt used for attaching the fans to the fan shroud....10mm head bolt as shown in pic #2...replacement bolt is on left side in both pics...although slightly shorter @25mm length instead of a 30mm length (stock size)...should work just fine...
Pics #3 & 4 show the small 7mm head bold (which both a 7mm and 9/32 socket will fit) that is used for the radiator shrouds and also attaching the oil cooler to the condenser....replacement bolt is also on the left in both pics....should be a 15mm length (stock size)...but this is a 20mm length...which should also work just fine...
Also received a rosebud shipment pic #5 for the fan conduit harness attachment for the fan shroud...1051910520105211052210523

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

An update on the 7mm screws in pics #3 & #4...
I found this bag of trim screws in pic #1....that must have had and they are a great match and the correct 15mm length....with the 7mm bolt head....
Pic #2...Left bolt is stock, center bolt is the Hillman bolt...and the right bolt is the trim screw from the above pack...
Poc #3...They are all 7mm head screws...same order as mentioned above....
105401054110542

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Been checking out the radiator cushions for the ZR-1 and as been mentioned they are hard to find the rubber units....although poly replacements are available....I can reuse my stock ones....if need be...
So I checked out what if anything was available and found the following....
Plus found some additional fasteners and radiator shroud bolts.....
Pic #1....these are to my knowledge the original LS & RS Upper radiator supports...
Pic #2...another view...
Pic #3...support on the left is from the 94....support on the right is a purchased part....the configuration is opposite....
Pic #4...another view from a different angle...again opposite orientation.... purchased unit on the left....original on the right...10547105481054910550

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Pic #5...here we have the originals on the top and two NOS units I found....they are the exact orientation...as they should be...
Pic #6...another view... exactly the same....
Pic #7...now here is the bottom support...unit on the left is from the 94....unit on the right was purchased...
the orientation although on the same side...is also off to where this may not properly fit...
Pic #8...you can also notice the difference in the orientation from the bottom side....only thing I can think of..... is that...this is from an earlier C4 and being sold as a 90-96 part....10551105521055310554

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Pic #9...these plastic fasteners are also used in the bottom spoiler area....one on the LS is the exact replacement....RS is the stock part...
Pic #10...the Hillman Ford parts are the same as what is on the ZR-1....
Pic #11....2 to a pack....105551055610557

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Pic #12....also purchased some extra bolts attaching the lower radiator support in place...as they are a different style of bolt....the 94 is on the far right....the other 4 are "just in case"....
Pic #13.....topside....in very good shape....all cleaned and ready to go....1055810559

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Hey Tom, Just a note to say thanks for sharing. You probably have no idea how much your posts will help someone one day. Some good details and lessons learned and good how to. Even the “lurkers” appreciate it I’m sure. When people are appreciated I know it motivates them to continue the act. Take care and keep up the good work.

Aloha,
Craig
1995 #228


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[dredgeguy]

Tom,
Wazoo maintenance day this Saturday. Hope you can make it.

[Roadster]

Tom,
Wazoo maintenance day this Saturday. Hope you can make it.Hello Charlie, wish I could make it. But have too much going on, plus threw my hip out. The 94 is all apart and working to get the 74 back together within this month or next month. Say hello to everyone and have a fun day!!! Here is the current status of the 94 as you may have seen some pics, did some bracket painting for the 74, still more to go, making a new fuel line and getting the carbs squared away. Getting there, keeping me busy......chat soon :)[emoji16][emoji16]105601056110562

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Hey Tom, Just a note to say thanks for sharing. You probably have no idea how much your posts will help someone one day. Some good details and lessons learned and good how to. Even the “lurkers” appreciate it I’m sure. When people are appreciated I know it motivates them to continue the act. Take care and keep up the good work.

Aloha,
Craig
1995 #228


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

Thanks Craig, it is appreciated and I do hope they help in some way or another in addition to the technical work that Cliff has compiled over the years. These are just added little tidbits I figure I would post up and hopefully help others if they intend to do this type of work on their ZR-1.
Looks like everything is well on your end, some great pics that you have posted from your new location. Take care yourself....chat soon!!!:)

[S.hafsmo]

Hey Tom, Just a note to say thanks for sharing. You probably have no idea how much your posts will help someone one day. Some good details and lessons learned and good how to. Even the “lurkers” appreciate it I’m sure. When people are appreciated I know it motivates them to continue the act. Take care and keep up the good work.

What he said. I don't post much, but always read. :cheers:

[Roadster]

What he said. I don't post much, but always read. :cheers:

Thanks and appreciated.....:)

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Thanks Craig, it is appreciated and I do hope they help in some way or another in addition to the technical work that Cliff has compiled over the years. These are just added little tidbits I figure I would post up and hopefully help others if they intend to do this type of work on their ZR-1.

Looks like everything is well on your end, some great pics that you have posted from your new location. Take care yourself....chat soon!!!:)


Hey Tom! You’re very welcome. It is understood the time and effort it takes to do write ups and take photos. Yes, you’re right about Dynomite Cliff and I’ve shared the same with him over the years. As you know a few years of hiatus from the Z, but never forgotten are the friends on here. Take care and Aloha!!
Craig



Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Having researched through the forum on AC condensers....I ended up purchasing a Spectra Premium 7-4557 condenser for my 94 ZR-1
There was mention in the older threads that this unit may not have provisions to install the oil cooler, this unit does with one exception and that is you need to elongate the holes on the RS (passenger side) of the oil cooler for it to fit and possibly use a larger washer under the 7mm attaching screw....no biggie...
As you may be able to determine in the pics, the body of the new condenser is slightly smaller than the original unit.....even the overall dimensions from side to side are slightly less....but the top to bottom measurements and the hose connections measurements are the same....the only difference in modifications that I can determine at this point is that the RS upper and lower front part of the radiator rubber cushions would have to be slightly modified to make sure that the new condenser is secured...
Having said that I am taking my original condenser to get pressure tested and make my decision when I get back the results....we shall see...
Here are some pics....
Pic #1....numbers on the original condenser...
Pic #2...the original...
Pic #3...original with oil cooler...
Pic #4...Spectra part #...
10588105891059010591

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Pic #5....the new unit...
Pic #6...with oil cooler...
Pic #7...LS of oil cooler lines up with bracket holes on the new unit...
Pic #8...RS of cooler need to elongate the holes slightly as mentioned above to fit....but again the new unit does have provisions for oil cooler installation....

And thank you again Craig for the comments....very much appreciated....:):)

10592105931059410595

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Just leaving the radiator shop....not worth the time to get the condenser pressure tested....as he can only put 15 lbs of pressure on the unit...and the condenser has way more pressure pass through it....unless there was obvious staining on it....there probably is no major leak....and if there is a minute leak...he would not be able to determine that....so it looks like I may go with the replacement unit. He also advised against painting the fins on the condenser or oil cooler....as I was also thinking those thoughts myself...[emoji16]

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Called a Automotive AC repair shop and they basically said the same thing....just blow some compressed air in the opening...leaning towards using the new unit....but still may attempt to clean the condenser out like I did the oil cooler as per Phil....:)

[Roadster]

Tumble...tumble.....tumble....that's part of what has been going on for the last few days....finally unboxed my tumbler and put it to good use....also been purchasing some radiator cushions the last few weeks....so I'll have what I need when I put the cooling system back together....might have to modify one or two of them using the new A/C condenser...glad to have some extras....[emoji16][emoji16]
Pic #1...magnet making it easy to fish those parts out...
Pic #2...may as well do some ZR-1 hardware as well....since I'm also doing the 74 hardware....
Pic #3....some hardware for the 74....to be polished in the next stage...
Pic #4...first cleaning....
Pic #5...years of grime...
Pic #6...so far.....looking good....cleaned and protected for future use...106691067010671106721067310674

Sent from my SM-G965U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Well its been 2 years and going on 4 months since the 94 last ran. Since the 74 is now home and I'm in the process of getting the garage and basement reorganized, it is time to get ready to get the 94 running again.
Radiator, oil cooler and condenser are still out of the engine compartment. Still would like to do some additional cleaning before reinstalling everything. Also giving some thought to changing out the thermostat, since I have better access. Have to check my records and see if it was changed before.
Also have Jerry's new oil cooler lines to install. And maybe thinking about back flushing the evaporator, maybe not.
So when you have time to do things, you do the little things to, such as cleaning up the clamp that secures the AC line along the front rail.
The cable or hose clamp had some corrosion inside of the rubber part and on the metal part as well. Some soaking, sanding and paint and rubber dressing makes them look good again.
This particular clamp is hard to find, it appears that most of the parts houses don't stock this particular part # and some of the other places require a business account to purchase. They do make them in a number of sizes and I'm sure for those that need replacing, a close replacement can be used.
Looking to have the Z running sometime this month. I do miss driving the 94, but with so much going on with my other projects, the time has and is flying by....[emoji16][emoji16]
Pic #1 after cleaning
Pic #2 before paint and rubber dressing
Pic #3 clamp painted and hanging out to dry
Pic #4 rubber dressing applied
Pic #5 back together and ready for service
Pic #6 just another view127941279512796127971279812799

Sent from my SM-G981U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Jagdpanzer]

Glad your back on the board Tom and sharing some attention on the 94.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

You always do nice, detailed work Tom!!


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Roadster]

Glad your back on the board Tom and sharing some attention on the 94.

Thanks Phil, the 94 has been covered in the garage way too long. At least its clean....lol. I will be extremely happy to have the LT5 singing once again....:):)

You always do nice, detailed work Tom!!

Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

Appreciate the compliment Craig, I try...lol may not get every little detail, but do what I can get to.....:):)

[dredgeguy]

Good to see you back Tom! As always, great job:)

[BigJohn]

How is the 74 running now that it is finished?