TB removal and then some!!!

[Roadster]

Good to see you back Tom! As always, great job:)Thanks Charlie, hope to see everyone real soon....[emoji16][emoji16]

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[Roadster]

How is the 74 running now that it is finished?Hello John....first startup went really well with the 74....but need to address the exhaust issue I am having with the exhaust manifold pipes not going in the configuration that I would like them to be under the car....around the trans......also need to work on the ZR-1 first as I need to put the 74 in that garage slot....so the 74 still is far from finished as the interior is completely out....and still need to change some items in the engine compartment as well...but getting there...thanks for asking....going to sneak in a pic....lol
Intended to do tripower....but then we stayed with the Q-Jet....which is fine...and sold my 68 tripower setup.....then a month later I buy a 67 tripower setup....it's just on my bucket list....so we shall see what happens next year....lol....[emoji16][emoji16]
12809

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[nelson007]

Hello Tom,
What media are you using in the Tumber?
Thanks,
Nelson

[Roadster]

Hello Nelson,
Just a smaller unit that I purchased from HF a few years ago. Large enough to do small parts and brackets. It does a decent job.
Here is a pic of the unit and the media I prefer to use. The results are good, but it also depends on the time spent in the tumbler. You still need to soak and or wipe the media "dust" off the parts to get ready for paint....etc.....[emoji16][emoji16]12810

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[Roadster]

The media I use....[emoji16]1281112812

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[BigJohn]

Hello John....first startup went really well with the 74....but need to address the exhaust issue I am having with the exhaust manifold pipes not going in the configuration that I would like them to be under the car....around the trans......also need to work on the ZR-1 first as I need to put the 74 in that garage slot....so the 74 still is far from finished as the interior is completely out....and still need to change some items in the engine compartment as well...but getting there...thanks for asking....going to sneak in a pic....lol
Intended to do tripower....but then we stayed with the Q-Jet....which is fine...and sold my 68 tripower setup.....then a month later I buy a 67 tripower setup....it's just on my bucket list....so we shall see what happens next year....lol....[emoji16][emoji16]
12809

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Hi Tom,
You know that driving a big block car gives you a feeling that no other car can.
Take your time and enjoy the process!

[Roadster]

Hi Tom,
You know that driving a big block car gives you a feeling that no other car can.
Take your time and enjoy the process!

Will do John, this is my first Big Bock C3.....in almost 12 years of ownership.. I've only driven the 74 for about 10 minutes....lol Anxious to experience that feeling and also anxious to drive the ZR-1 once again.....:):)

[Roadster]

Since I have items out of the engine compartment.....I would like to remove the thermostat housing and replace the thermostat and clean up the housing itself....but the one heater hose connection is giving me a problem....the other heater hose popped out with no problem....so any advice on how to remove this one is appreciated...and I sprayed some WD40 in there.....I also have 2 new quick connects for replacement...I just don't want to break anything in the process...
Thanks for any info...

Pic #1...nice empty space...
Pic #2...the one hose on the left...no problem....but that hose circled...
Pic #3...two to choose from...
Pic #4...bottom view...12851128521285312854

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[BigJohn]

Are you also going to install a larger radiator?

[Roadster]

Are you also going to install a larger radiator?

I have a new radiator......condenser and a totally cleaned out oil cooler to go back in....so I will be ready.....:):)

[Roadster]

Finally have the 94 on the Quickjacks.....now to pull the wheels...drain the oil and a host of other items....including removing the thermostat housing....getting there....plenty of room under there....1287612877

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[HAWAIIZR-1]

Finally have the 94 on the Quickjacks.....now to pull the wheels...drain the oil and a host of other items....including removing the thermostat housing....getting there....plenty of room under there....1287612877

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Hey Tom,

I?m sure you love your QuickJack as much as I love mine! I?m jealous; I have been trying to get home to my Z since April, but COVID jacked everything up (no pun intended [emoji38]) and I can?t travel. Hopefully this crap with be gone soon so I can go home to work on my car too. Enjoy!! 🤙🏼 Aloha!




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[XfireZ51]

Love my QJacks.

[Roadster]

Hey Tom,

I?m sure you love your QuickJack as much as I love mine! I?m jealous; I have been trying to get home to my Z since April, but COVID jacked everything up (no pun intended [emoji38]) and I can?t travel. Hopefully this crap with be gone soon so I can go home to work on my car too. Enjoy!! 🤙🏼 Aloha!


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I sure do Craig....as mentioned....there is plenty of room under there....the fun begins tomorrow....pulling all 4 wheels for a total cleaning and checking the rear 2 tires for slow leaks.....might take over to NTB which is close to me for them to check out....hopefully you will get home soon and work on your ZR-1....stay safe and safe travels when you can travel....:):)

Love my QJacks.

Yes.....loving mine so far....IMO...a great investment.....:):)

[Roadster]

Another day....and more progress being made... the 94 is on Quickjacks and the 74 is on wheel dollies....when I finish the 94....I can then slide the 74 over on that side of the garage and continue work....already slid the 74 over a few inches this evening and it really makes a difference in the additional space that it provided....the dollies work great....
Plenty of room between the 94 and the 74...
Now the fun begins.....[emoji16][emoji16]1288612887

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[HAWAIIZR-1]

I sure do Craig....as mentioned....there is plenty of room under there....the fun begins tomorrow....pulling all 4 wheels for a total cleaning and checking the rear 2 tires for slow leaks.....might take over to NTB which is close to me for them to check out....hopefully you will get home soon and work on your ZR-1....stay safe and safe travels when you can travel....:):)







Yes.....loving mine so far....IMO...a great investment.....:):)



Nice. You have plenty to keep you busy for awhile. Thanks for your thoughts. Enjoy and safe thoughts to you too. Take care! 🤙🏼


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[Roadster]

Took off all 4 wheels and cleaned 2 of them....still in decent shape for originals...cleaned up the insides somewhat and debating on whether or not to repaint the insides...thinking since I already off...now would be the time to do so.
I image a shade of Aluminum paint would work or maybe a Silver...has anyone refinished the insides and if you did....what did you use???
Some pics....[emoji16][emoji16]

Pic #1...inside of rear wheel
Pic #2...wheel cleaned
Pic #3...inside also cleaned up good
Pic #4...inside of front sheel
Pic #5...cleaned up decent considering the amount of crud on there
Pic #6... front wheel finished for now128911289212893128941289512896

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[Jagdpanzer]

Tom ,
You might consider trying aluminum brightener like the truckers use

[32valvZ]

Have good luck using red Scotchbrite pads and Simple Green to clean up wheel barrels. I never painted any though... pretty easy to maintain once you get them cleaned up with regular car washes.

[Roadster]

Tom ,
You might consider trying aluminum brightener like the truckers useHello Phil,
I did end up using a few different products during my experimental phase... lol....seems like the most effective for me at least in removing stains was the Blue Magic polish and the green Scotch Brite pad...
They are decent....2 down...2 to go...

Pic #1...the experiments...
Pic #2...front wheel redone...
Pic #3...inside of front wheel....not perfect...but an improvement...
Pic #4...rear wheel finished...
Pic #5...inside of rear wheel....1290812909129101291112912

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[Roadster]

Have good luck using red Scotchbrite pads and Simple Green to clean up wheel barrels. I never painted any though... pretty easy to maintain once you get them cleaned up with regular car washes.As you can see in the above pics... 2 of the wheels look good...finally figured out what seems to work best for me in removing those stains....or as much as I could remove.... green Scotch Brites and Blue Magic cream polish....in conjunction with everything else on top of the tire....[emoji16][emoji16]

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[Roadster]

Ever since I've owned my 94...there has always been slow air leaks in both rear tires...so today loaded up the tires in the Vibe and took a ride to NTB...
The RR tire ended up with a nail that has been in there forever...
They couldn't find a leak in the LR tire...but since I was there had both tires removed (RR) to be repaired and LR to be cleaned....
No signs of any dry rot outside or inside of both tires....which are from 2012....they both look great....so good news there....and the tire sensor just fell off the RR inside wheel....so no biggie there....recleaned the wheels and tires with Stoner tire dressing and Speedy....not pristine or show wheels...but decent for a driver...
Still have more to do to get back on the road....but progress being made....[emoji16][emoji16]

Pic #1....the nail that has been with me for the last 6 plus years...
Pic #2....recleaned all of the wheels with Stoner tire dressing and Speedy....
Pic #3...3 done and looking decent...not pristine or show quality...but good for a driver...
Pic #4....may get these refinished some day and use my spare set when these get redone....
Pic #5....the tire sensor just fell off the inside of the wheel...may have happen during the removal....1311113112131131311413115

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[WARP TEN]

Ever since I've owned my 94...there has always been slow air leaks in both rear tires...so today loaded up the tires in the Vibe and took a ride to NTB...
The RR tire ended up with a nail that has been in there forever...
They couldn't find a leak in the LR tire...but since I was there had both tires removed (RR) to be repaired and LR to be cleaned....
No signs of any dry rot outside or inside of both tires....which are from 2012....they both look great....so good news there....and the tire sensor just fell off the RR inside wheel....so no biggie there....recleaned the wheels and tires with Stoner tire dressing and Speedy....not pristine or show wheels...but decent for a driver...
Still have more to do to get back on the road....but progress being made....[emoji16][emoji16]

Pic #1....the nail that has been with me for the last 6 plus years...
Pic #2....recleaned all of the wheels with Stoner tire dressing and Speedy....
Pic #3...3 done and looking decent...not pristine or show quality...but good for a driver...
Pic #4....may get these refinished some day and use my spare set when these get redone....
Pic #5....the tire sensor just fell off the inside of the wheel...may have happen during the removal....1311113112131131311413115

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Two thoughts: First, I had a slow leak in a rear ZR-1 tire that a good tire shop could not find. Took it back to Costco where I had bought the Michelin tires and they immediately said "leaky valve". They replaced the valve without charge and the slow leak stopped. As a side note, I usually pumped up my tires to about 50-55 psi for winter storage to avoid flat spots. They said the valves are only warranted for 40 psi. Second, that nail looks like it is a recent addition. Usually a nail that has been in a tire for a short while will wear down flush and be quite shiny. That one doesn't look worn. Maybe a bad valve in that one too, along with the nail?--Bob

[Roadster]

Thanks Bob....both tires are holding air just fine....I run 30 lbs pressure in them....finally getting the work done that needs to be done....lol can't wait to get back on the road....[emoji16][emoji16]

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[Roadster]

Getting more done on the 94....going to clean more of the suspension and install the Hawk brake pads....took the rotors off...I am assuming that these are the originals....if anyone recognizes the markings as originals...please let me know...
Dropped the front rotors off to get cut...
Was quoted $15 per rotor....but then when I got there...said $25 per rotor...didn't realize the price went up....but the service person honored what he said on the phone....so I lucked out there....will be done tomorrow...
Did a measurement around the rotor at each lug stud location....and in between...my measurements were between 26.55mm to 26.96mm thickness of the rotor...since I found a place to cut them....I did not measure the right side....hoping that they are within specs....[emoji16]
Pic #1....LS front rotor....lot of reflection from the lights...
Pic #2....back of LS rotor...
Pic #3....are these GM Factory markings...
Pic #4....another marking....
Pic #5....more cleaning needed here..
Pic #6.....and here....
131541315513156131571315813159

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[Mystic ZR-1]

How did you find a place to machine the rotors?
No one around here will do it...

[Roadster]

I goggled in my area to see if any shops offered that service....at first it mentioned Meineke....call them...they don't have the machine...called my local PepBoys...and they have the machine and provide the service....:):):thumbsup:

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[32valvZ]

I got mine done for $60. for all 4 at my local Car Quest... Cutting rotors is very, very easy... Just mic them to make sure they'll be in spec after cutting, throw them on the brake lathe and thats it... machine does the work... :cheers:

[Roadster]

Just picked the front rotors up....some brake cleaner and ready to go.....[emoji16][emoji16]131611316213163

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[Roadster]

I got mine done for $60. for all 4 at my local Car Quest... Cutting rotors is very, very easy... Just mic them to make sure they'll be in spec after cutting, throw them on the brake lathe and thats it... machine does the work... :cheers:Good deal....the back ones will cost me $25 a piece.....I lucked out with the misquote on the front ones...total was $34 and change...so all of them cut will be about a total of about $90 or slightly less....still not a bad deal....as there are not many parts stores that cut rotors in my area....alot of them stopped offering this service years ago....:):)

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[32valvZ]

Are you going to paint the front and back sides of the rotor hats? I always do that... prevents rust that looks ugly.. I even paint the "spine" of the rotors where the cooling fins are...:cheers:

[Roadster]

Are you going to paint the front and back sides of the rotor hats? I always do that... prevents rust that looks ugly.. I even paint the "spine" of the rotors where the cooling fins are...:cheers:Yes I intended to do that....might go with high temp black.... [emoji16][emoji16]

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[Roadster]

When I purchased my 94 back in 2014....one of the first changes I made...was to buy the chip from Marc Haibeck for the HP increase and fan operation...it was then that I discovered that the PROM in the car was different that what I thought would be there....different in the way of the markings on it...it has dates and Tim Holland's name allover it....
I then found out that Tim Holland was one of the Lotus Engineers responsible for setting up the PROM's for the LT5...this one being for the 93-95 versions...
Ended up tracking down Tim at that time and had a great conversation with him...as I also found out that my ZR-1 was a captured test fleet car and owned by GM for 2 years and 27,000 miles later...Tim started laughing and said..."that chip wasn't supposed to be left in the car, it was to be removed"...but he also mentioned that it was fine to be there...as that is the final version for the stock PROM's for 93-95...
He also mentioned that they drove these captured test fleet cars everyday just like a regular family car...went to the store, drove family members where they had to go...etc...etc...and IIRC when parts went bad if that happened....they were readily replaced....I am assuming that Tim might have used my car himself...since his PROM was in there...hopefully sometime in the future I will talk to him again...
Here are some pics... [emoji16] [emoji16]
Pic #1....the PROM cover...
Pic #2....BKKR....Tim's name and date....
Pic #3....closeup....
Pic #4....Tim Holland's name allover the PROM...
Pic #5....and date markings....
Pic #6....Marc's chip added on....131731317413175131761317713178

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[Roadster]

Keeping myself busy....just finished painting the rotors....worth the time to mask....they turned out good....
Pic #1....front all tapped and ready...
Pic #2....rear done...
Pic #3....mim thickness 26.4mm
Pic #4....there are L & R part #'s for the rotors....I imagine for Assembly Line purposes.... LS part #
Pic #5....RS part #
Pic #6....out in the outside open paint booth....it works...131851318613187131891319013191

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[Roadster]

Finished....the rotors just need a good wipe down with Brake Clean before install....
Pic #1....happy with the results....
Pic #2....even shot the caliper bracket....1319213193

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[ZR2]

Pretty cool about the chip. A neat piece of history!!!

[Roadster]

Pretty cool about the chip. A neat piece of history!!!

Yes it is.....thanks....:)

[32valvZ]

Looking good... I also used silver. You really took some time on them with the tape... I wire wheeled them with my air die grinder and a steel wire wheel, balm canned them and wiped the braking surfaces down with some brake clean on a rag... =D>

[Roadster]

Looking good... I also used silver. You really took some time on them with the tape... I wire wheeled them with my air die grinder and a steel wire wheel, balm canned them and wiped the braking surfaces down with some brake clean on a rag... =D>Thanks....actually the tape didn't take that long.... I'm better off without the wire wheel on some items....lol
Still have to take the back ones apart and get them cut....:):)
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[Roadster]

Between everything else going on....still working on the LF suspension wheel well area....slow but steady progress and plenty left to do...with 26 years of grease and crud buildup ..:):):)
Pic #1...making progress..... just to look clean again....
Pic #2...LF shock part#....
Pic #3...continuation of part#....
Pic #4...have no clue what the 7C sticker means...13209132101321113212

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[Roadster]

Been doing more on the LF suspension area and then decided to take Todd and Steven 's advice..from over on the FB Page.....lol...I ended up removing the wheel well liners and glad I did...found a whole lot of everything going on....[emoji848][emoji16]... crud everywhere....
Pic #1...front liner and LS spolier removed....
Pic #2...back wheel well liner removed....not pretty...
Pic #3...battery tray...ugh...
Pic #4...battery tray needs a big cleanup....
Pic #5...battery tray cleaned...
Pic #6...lots of cleaning to be done...132491325013251132521325313254

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[BigJohn]

Not bad for twenty five years!

[Roadster]

I think I could have potential electrical problems if I didn't discover these items...
1-positive battery connection...is there anyway to correct this other than replacing the positive battery cable...check out the pics....
2-also the wires to the rear fuse box (main wiring harness to the rear fuse box)... have or had corrosion (now removed)....but a break in one of the wires....which electrical tape should fix....
3-need to replace some conduit as it also is eaten away....
4-have no clue what I believe is a water drain from the windshield cowl area that dumps right into the battery area....where all this takes place....think I will somehow extend this....so it will dump out below the frame....
Just going to take longer than expected to get back on the road.... [emoji16] [emoji16]

Pic #1..battery cable dilemma...any ideas on how to fix...other than replacing the positive battery cable???
Pic $2...corrosion under electrical tape...I think I could have potential electrical problems if I didn't discover these items...
1-positive battery connection...is there anyway to correct this other than replacing the positive battery cable...check out the pics....
2-also the wires to the rear fuse box (main wiring harness to the rear fuse box)... have or had corrosion (now removed)....but a break in one of the wires....which electrical tape should fix....
3-need to replace some conduit as it also is eaten away....
4-have no clue what I believe is a water drain from the windshield cowl area that dumps right into the battery area....where all this takes place....think I will somehow extend this....so it will dump out below the frame....
Just going to take longer than expected to get back on the road.... [emoji16] [emoji16]

Pic #1..battery cable dilemma...any ideas???
Pic #2...corrosion under electrical tape...
Pic #3...more...ugh
Pic #4...wires cleaned as best as can be...
Pic #5...have no clue why a water drain was placed there to drain right into the battery compartment area...
Pic #6...even some of the conduit fell apart..
132581325913260132611326213263

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[32valvZ]

You can get a replacement battery terminal connector. The issue with this is that the corrosion you see more than likely travels further up the cable, under the jacket. Maybe replace the connector, buy a new cable and replace it whenever you pull the plenum again.. The rest is easy fixes. Neutralize and clean up the corrosion, replace wire loom. The water is coming from the rubber drain tube from the windshield cowl area, re-route it away from the wires if you can.. :cheers:

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

You can get a replacement battery terminal connector. The issue with this is that the corrosion you see more than likely travels further up the cable, under the jacket. Maybe replace the connector, buy a new cable and replace it whenever you pull the plenum again.. The rest is easy fixes. Neutralize and clean up the corrosion, replace wire loom. The water is coming from the rubber drain tube from the windshield cowl area, re-route it away from the wires if you can.. :cheers:

What he said!

I would use a longer drain tube or a connector and an added piece to get it completely past that area.
That damage on the smaller wires also appears to be more battery acid induced than water drainage or accumulation causes.
That positive cable is trouble with a capital T!
Great that you went on your exploration!!!
:cheers:
Marty

[Jagdpanzer]

Better off replacing all the suspect cables and move on. Replacing the positive starter cable will require pulling the plenum and coil tray.

[Roadster]

You can get a replacement battery terminal connector. The issue with this is that the corrosion you see more than likely travels further up the cable, under the jacket. Maybe replace the connector, buy a new cable and replace it whenever you pull the plenum again.. The rest is easy fixes. Neutralize and clean up the corrosion, replace wire loom. The water is coming from the rubber drain tube from the windshield cowl area, re-route it away from the wires if you can.. :cheers:

What he said!

I would use a longer drain tube or a connector and an added piece to get it completely past that area.
That damage on the smaller wires also appears to be more battery acid induced than water drainage or accumulation causes.
That positive cable is trouble with a capital T!
Great that you went on your exploration!!!
:cheers:
Marty

Better off replacing all the suspect cables and move on. Replacing the positive starter cable will require pulling the plenum and coil tray.

Appreciate the replies everyone....looking for the correct positive battery cable.....in the meantime I found the battery cable washer that is used in the positive cables of our Z's.....it is part #11501869 and I assume that this is the size as it was posted with the part #......M8X15X.85 and that was used as mentioned for VIN J......did a search and nowhere to be found.... :)

[Roadster]

So I did a partial cleanup on the washer and even went further inside the cover to remove any signs of battery acid powder in there....there was some...but the further I went...the less that there was....I ordered a battery cable spacer that I'm hoping will fit in there just right and provide full contact when the cable is attached....what i would like to do....is find that washer and cut the cover open and just replace the washer and then reseal the cover....as I never had any problems starting the engine at all....I really don't feel like doing another plenum pull if I don't have to...but if it has to be done....as I have enough going on as it is....lol....pics below after preliminary cleaning of the disintegrating washer so far...the metal that is still there is solid....so with the spacer added....it might work just fine....
1327813279

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[Roadster]

Not bad for twenty five years!

I guess not.....but more than I expected behind the covers.....at least it will be corrected when I'm finished....still more to do....that is for sure....:)

[Roadster]

Did some research and found that the battery cable washer is still available from GM....although a little pricey IMO....I ordered a couple of them from the dealer..I also found another set of cables for the LT5 from one of our members on the forum....so if my experiment doesn't work....I can always change out the positive cable....here is the part #11501869 for anyone interested....also found out that the part number for the positive battery cable is #12073841 (which we know is no longer available)...this part number was replaced by #15320758 as per the dealer parts man and is also no longer available....but may help in future searches for buying purposes....[emoji16]13283

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[Mystic ZR-1]

That washer looks like it or suitable replacement
would be available at any hardware store for a few cents?
What's so special about it?

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Tom,
I have a new (NOS) 12106586 which I have listed as correct for 93-95 Corvette ZR-1
Maybe my listing is wrong, but the cable looks correct.
Let me know.
Thanks and Good Work!!!
Marty

[Roadster]

That washer looks like it or suitable replacement
would be available at any hardware store for a few cents?
What's so special about it?

Don't know Doug.....probably nothing special at all....but I committed already..:)

Tom,
I have a new (NOS) 12106586 which I have listed as correct for 93-95 Corvette ZR-1
Maybe my listing is wrong, but the cable looks correct.
Let me know.
Thanks and Good Work!!!
Marty

Thanks Marty.....just going from my info....your number may be correct and mine not correct...if you can send me a PM with a pic and your price for the cable.....and we can go from there......thanks again.
Tom :)

[Roadster]

FYI...lesson learned.....the washer shown above part#11501869 is not for the battery cable end that attaches to the battery.....rather than it is for the "ring" ends that attach to the other connections.....which are much smaller....:confused:

[Roadster]

In the process of changing the bias spring in the MC....but a no go for now....might just unbolt and try it on the work bench....
Also removed the rocker panel on the LS...thinking about getting them repainted....also a cleanup in the area is needed...and the fasteners were soaked....cleaned and dried and getting ready for paint...:):)133141331513316133171331813319

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[Roadster]

Started to unwrap the rear wiring harness to replace the electrical tape...big mistake...that ended in a hurry...lol
Just re-taped over the old tape after cleaning....another job completed [emoji16]133201332113322

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[BigJohn]

Started to unwrap the rear wiring harness to replace the electrical tape...big mistake...that ended in a hurry...lol
Just re-taped over the old tape after cleaning....another job completed [emoji16]133201332113322

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What kind of tape was that?

[Roadster]

What kind of tape was that?I have no idea....seems to be a strand type electrical type tape that I am not familiar with....as mentioned I didn't remove anymore...just covered it all...[emoji16][emoji16]13323

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[Roadster]

Took the conduit off the rest of the rear wiring harness to cleanup the wires....26 years of some buildup in there...
Wires wiped down.....conduit replaced and taped....
Last pic is comparison of the new on the left and the original on the right....new is more flexible.... original seems stronger....but that can be from different grades of the material....or just feeling like that with age....another job completed.... still more to do....[emoji16]1332413325133261332713328

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[Roadster]

Making more progress today...
Pic #1...took fuse boxes apart and thoroughly cleaned housings and checked that fuses were seated all the way....some pressed down for a firmer connection....
Pic #2... lower circle was cleaned and repaired....upper circle looks like the conduit has disintegrated from years of heat cycles....I am assuming....
Pic #3...lower circle repaired....
Pic #4...haven't checked the FSM... anyone have an idea of what part this is....could it be a relay???
Pic #5...positive battery ground location....cleanup is in order...little bit of corrosion going on there...
Pic #6...negative battery groung...looks like the washer is part of the end connection....133331333613337133381333913340

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[Roadster]

Making progress with the positive battery cable replacement....
Everything is apart...was debating on removing the starter and doing a cleanup...but may just leave as it is and clean what I can....
Pic #1....yes we know how crowded it is under there....lol
Pic #2....that tape gun tape doesn't stick... [emoji848]....now what plug goes where....[emoji16][emoji16]
Pic #3....connections everywhere... great opportunity to get everything cleaned...
Pic #4....glad I removed the coils from the cover plate...needs a cleaning....
Pic #5...and there it is....the positive battery cable connection....was thinking about starter removal...but now....thinking not....[emoji16]1341413415134161341713418

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[Ccmano]

Since you have gone to that trouble, I would at least pull the starter and check/clean the solenoid contacts.
H
:cheers:

[Roadster]

Since you have gone to that trouble, I would at least pull the starter and check/clean the solenoid contacts.
H
:cheers:The starter was replaced about 4 or 5 years ago when we did the first plenum pull on the 94...and only has a thousand miles on it if that since that pull....was thinking of taking it out just to clean up there more thoroughly.... but then thinking not...lol.... I'll see what tomorrow brings....[emoji16][emoji16]

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[32valvZ]

Dude.... pull the starter... clean it up and clean that valley up too. Youve gone too far not to. :thumbsup:

[Roadster]

Well I did end up removing the starter and did a cleanup in the valley...the drain hole was clear....as that was taken care of with the 1st plenum pull years ago...some pics.... btw...the FSM....mentions to torque the starter bolts to 38 lb ft.... is any type of sealer or anti seize recommended???
Pic #1...some cleaning needed for sure...
Pic #2...there is some crud there....lol...
Pic #3...used a 14" plastic tie for the drain hole....clear all the way through...
Pic #4...wiped out and looking like it should....
Pic #5...as clean as can be...an improvement from before....:)
Pic #6...starter back in...bolts need to be torqued down....thinking about a dab of anti-seize for future removal....

Another job added to the finished column....:):)
134291343013432134331343413435

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[32valvZ]

I know of no sealant needed for the starter mounting... Looking good now!!

[Roadster]

I know of no sealant needed for the starter mounting... Looking good now!!

Thanks....it does look better....:) might just torque them down with the anti-seize....:)

[Roadster]

Replacement positive battery cable installed....had to use original ground wire....no biggie...just had to retape to replacement....[emoji16]1345013451

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[Roadster]

More progress today....cleaning up more under the plenum....
Pic #1...from this....
Pic #2...to this....
Pic #3...and this....
Pic #4...to this...
Pic #5...going to remove the AC compressor and the alternator for a full cleaning....and most likely the belt tensioner while I'm at it....lol
before you know it I'll have the entire car disassembled......[emoji16][emoji848][emoji16]1346013461134621346313464

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[Roadster]

Coil tray cleaned and ready for install....back in the engine with colis and wires attached....134731347413475

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[Roadster]

More progress tonight....removed the alternator....AC compressor and the belt tensioner....not only do I have easier access to the lower radiator hose connected to the water pump...but I also have quite a cleanup job ahead of me....tons of grease and grine...
Probably going to soak the belt tensioner for a few days.. leary about taking it apart....even though I have the replacement LT1 Dayco part... mine has good spring action and the pulley spins freely for quite a while in either direction....so I may just clean up and reuse....
Thought about the water pump...but I never had any trouble with mine...the one time I was on the highway and saw the temps go up was because of a large bag that got sucked up into the front of the radiator....
I also want to remove the entire thermostat housing....but for the life of me I can't get that hose in the pic disconnected....even with the removal tool.. any suggestions???
Pic #1...a cleanup in order...
Pic #2...grease and grime everywhere...
Pic #3...great access to the water pump hose...
Pic #4....the belt tensioner...
Pic #5...back view...
Pic #6...I need help with this one...it won't budge and I don't want to break anything....134921349313494134951349613497

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[Jagdpanzer]

Squirt some penetrating fluid on it a let set overnight. Then break it loose by twisting and pulling.

[Roadster]

Squirt some penetrating fluid on it a let set overnight. Then break it loose by twisting and pulling.Have tried...but still no luck....yet...

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[Roadster]

Back cleaning on the LT5... glad I now have the time to get this cleaning done..as it is difficult for me reassemble parts when they're covered with grease and grime... one section at a time... progress being made... also thinking about changing out the water pump since I now have easy access....still can't undo the disconnect hose to the thermostat housing....[emoji848][emoji848]138971389813899

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[Roadster]

A tale of 3 pumps....water pumps....
As my 94 is still apart I will probably change out my water pump....
Just thinking out loud I have tried to measure the resistance of the bearing and the propeller of each pump.... being determined by rotating the pump by hand...which would probably be a moot point...since when the belt is attached...takes over the speed that the pump rotates regardless of resistance...I would imagine...
The stock pump still attached to the engine with the pulley on...but no belt...rotates freely with hardy any resistance for a few rotations....
The Valucraft remanufactured pump.. I can only hand rotate 1/4 turn...
The GMB which to my understanding is a brand new aftermarket pump... which I can rotate by hand for also a 1/4 turn....but moves more freely and has less resistance to rotate than the Valucraft pump....does this mean anything or have an effect on the operation of the pump....I have no idea...I am just comparing these two pumps to the stock pump....just thinking out loud and deciding which one to use...and both pumps seem to be well built.....[emoji16][emoji16]
Pic #1...Valucraft remanufactured pump...and new pump...
Pic #2...remanufactured pump on top....new pump on bottom.....
Pic #3...original casting part # on remanufactured pump...
Pic #4...new casting...
Pic #5 & 6....backside of both pumps....140091401014011140121401314014

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[Roadster]

An interesting observation....getting ready to take the pump off....checkout how close to the top of the original pump the shaft is...it is flush....it is also that way on the new pump....on the rebuilt pump...the shaft is depressed into the shaft cylinder....probably doesn't mean anything...or will effect the performance of the pump...I would imagine...
Pic #1...Original pump....
Pic #2...Top rebuilt pump and depressed shaft..
Bottom new pump and flush shaft just like the original....
1401514016

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[Roadster]

Taking the water pump bolts out one by one....cleaning them and the placing in one of the new pumps....this particular bolt has oil allover it from the following location....is this normal???1401714018

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[Roadster]

Another bolt on the rightside of the pump also coated with fluid....14019

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[Jagdpanzer]

Tom,
The pulley flange should be pressed on almost flush with the end of the shaft like your old pump. I'd stay away from that rebuilt pump. Belt alignment could be a problem with it.
Looks like oil may have seeped under the timing cover gasket on the first two bolts. There is one bolt on the left side that is threaded into the left cylinder head cam chain cavity is only one that comes in contact with oil. The FSM mentions to use loctite 565 sealant on the threads during assembly.

[Roadster]

Tom,
The pulley flange should be pressed on almost flush with the end of the shaft like your old pump. I'd stay away from that rebuilt pump. Belt alignment could be a problem with it.
Looks like oil may have seeped under the timing cover gasket on the first two bolts. There is one bolt on the left side that is threaded into the left cylinder head cam chain cavity is only one that comes in contact with oil. The FSM mentions to use loctite 565 sealant on the threads during assembly.Thanks Phil....they did look to be the same height side by side....just wonder why they pressed on the flange being recessed....
Those 2 bolts were at each opposite ends of the pump....the first wet bolt was on the passenger side and seems to attach just under the head...where the driver's side bolt which was also wet seems to attach to the bottom of head very slightly.. so that must be the cylinder head chain cavity you mentioned....I would assume that the passenger side bolt also be in that same area that you mentioned for the left side ...just curious...
I do have the 565 sealant that you mentioned and also going to use on the new oil cooler lines....
Still awhile before I'm back together...plenty of cleaning to do in that area....
Thanks again....:)
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[Roadster]

Glad I took off the pump....when you go to spin it now....you can hear it "scraping" when turning...sounds like the bearing may be on its way out....
Also plenty of cleaning to do....and that :censored::rolleyes::frown: one quick disconnect pipe on the thermostat housing is still giving me a hard time....I'll get it someday....:icon_boun:dontknow::dontknow::D1402014 02114022

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[ZR2]

I had a hard time removing some bolts on another car and everything led me to Kroil penetrating oil. I believe it is a machinists oil and is supposed to be excellent for breaking loose frozen bolts. I did use a mixture of 50/50 acetone and trans fluid before and it did seem to work, but messy..... NAPA sells some pretty expensive stuff made by CRC "Knocker Loose". I think it was the best as all the other fluids I tried didn't help and I left them soaking for days and days.

[Jagdpanzer]

This guy claims Liquid Wrench is the best he's tested
https://youtu.be/xUEob2oAKVs


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[XfireZ51]

My ?go to? has been Kroil for years.

[Roadster]

Not having any problem at all with removing bolts....I did notice that the 2 Torx screws on the bottom on the WP which a T30 fits but is slightly loose.... I thought it would be a T35 size.....which I don't have.....so I used the T30 with my ratchet and went slowly.....and they loosen with little effort....

The trouble I am having as mentioned before is with one of the quick disconnect hoses on the thermostat housing.....Phil mentioned to soak....which I have been doing....but not happening right now.....I have another idea to try....so we shall see....:)

[Roadster]

Here is what I have been thinking about....since I have the room and I want to remove the housing from the car....is to unbolt the housing and then remove the connector from the housing by rotating the entire housing....this way once the connector is removed...I can get better leverage to remove the hose from the connector.... I am more concerned about damaging the end of the hose....as opposed to the connector....as I have 2 new ones to install if needed....but to replace that hose if I had to...would be a real PIA...14029

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[Roadster]

Back working on the 94...more progress being made....with the removal of the oil filter housing... and the thermostat housing out of the way..plus the RS coolant pipe and the EGR tube removed...there is all kinds of room for cleaning and making the LT5 somewhat new again...
Thinking about removing the EGR altogether....has anyone done this???
Will have to check the Forum again for related threads....
The more grease and crud I see...the more I take things apart...
As you see in the pics....the thermostat housing is still giving me complications on removing that one hose....I also got 2 out of 3 bolts removed on the thermostat cover...I have the 3rd bolt soaking with PB Blaster on the top and bottom....hopefully that will come out soon...
Pic #1...makes it much easier to clean with items out of the way...
Pic #2...bolt #3 on the thermostat housing cover soaking in PB Blaster....#1 & #2 bolt came out easily...
Pic #3...still giving me a hard time.... can't get the proper position to press down and turn...to release... drastic measures are planned soon...[emoji848][emoji848][emoji849]
Pic #4...closeup of the bottom of #3 bolt soaking...hooe that will come out without a problem...
Pic #5...oil filter housing gasket material looking real goid...even after 27 years...
Pic #6....EGR tube removed....maybe entirely remove the EGR.... 143601436114362143631436414365

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[secondchance]

Tom,

I must say! That?s some cleaning. Looking real good!

[Roadster]

Tom,

I must say! That?s some cleaning. Looking real good!

Thanks Yung......still have more to do...but when it's done....it's done... :)

[Roadster]

Well when Robert ...posted up in the 3rd bolt soaking pic...on the ZR-1 FB Group....I really got a little worried...because I hate drilling out bolts if I don't have to...so Robert.... I decided to give it another try....this handy little tool took out bolts 1 & 2 yesterday...and just tried again a few minutes ago....but no go with this....in
Pic #1...

So it was time to go heavy duty with my corded electric....did little spurts at a time...and still nothing...wasn't about to give up...so after about the 6th try...it happened...the socket started to turn and it spun right out...success....
And Robert was correct....because soaking really didn't do anything....as there wasn't any fluid on the threads when I removed the bolt...so it did not penetrate the bolt at all....I really got very lucky to say the least....:):)
Pic #2...

So the thermostat cover is off....and now have to decide if I want to still mess with the disconnect or just leave as is...and cleaning the housing the best I can and replace the thermostat right there... :dontknow:
Pic #3...

Removing the cover made my day...did not want to wait til later to try....just had it get it done....again...I really lucked out....:):)
Pic #414370143711437214373

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[A26B]

Applying indirect heat to the aluminum t-stat housing, directing flame downward & away from the bolt head, will expand the aluminum to loosen the bolt "set". Then, when using impact, alternately turn L & R will be more effective than only loosening.

[Roadster]

Applying indirect heat to the aluminum t-stat housing, directing flame downward & away from the bolt head, will expand the aluminum to loosen the bolt "set". Then, when using impact, alternately turn L & R will be more effective than only loosening.Will keep that in mind for the future....thanks...

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[Roadster]

Front RS head cleaned....

Cleaned and taped all sensor plugs ...ready for install...

First cleaning of oil filter housing....


Won't even need a repaint....14375143761437714378

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[secondchance]

Tom,

Just a suggestion. You might consider replacing low oil pressure sensor while you have the housing off. If the sensor is old, it might fail and leak oil through the connector and leave an oily mess. Once filter housing is installed, it?s real pain to replace.

[Roadster]

Tom,

Just a suggestion. You might consider replacing low oil pressure sensor while you have the housing off. If the sensor is old, it might fail and leak oil through the connector and leave an oily mess. Once filter housing is installed, it?s real pain to replace.

Thanks Yung.....I will replace it....good suggestion.....rather do it now than later....:)

[Roadster]

Second cleaning today with oil filter and all sensors removed...very satisfied with the results....
Also part #'s and and an interesting marking and another set of #'s stamped on the housing....[emoji16][emoji16]1439314394143951439614397

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[secondchance]

With all this painstaking cleaning, is there any type of coating that can be applied to cast aluminum parts to keep oil and grime from getting soaked in? Oil and grime build up cannot be avoided but some coating that will make it easier to rinse off?

[dredgeguy]

Gibbs? It works on my polished engine.

[secondchance]

That?s on polished aluminum. Anything on cast aluminum?

[Roadster]

Between the Groups keeping me occupied....took sometime to get another part cleaned up....
the before....and the after...144781447914480

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[Roadster]

More today....still a lot more to do... grease and crud everywhere....
Preliminary cleaning done...a little at a time....1448914490144911449214493

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[Roadster]

Sometimes the little things are very rewarding....I cleaned and painted the LS front wheel liners a few months ago and although I'm not ready to install yet...figured it would be better to have them together with the correct bolts and u-nuts...as I didn't tag everything....so using the RS as my guide...makes putting what goes where very easy...plus having the FSM....the pics...[emoji16]
Pic #2...Quite a difference from what I started with...
Pic #3...Although not 100% perfect...very acceptable to go back on the 94....can't wait...but still more to do....
Pic #4...Even though I have extra hardware...the RS still not totally disassembled as of yet...makes the LS a breeze to assemble....14500145011450214503

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[HAWAIIZR-1]

Nice work as usual Tom! Keep it up; you?re doing a great restoration job!! [emoji1303]🤙🏼


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[Roadster]

Nice work as usual Tom! Keep it up; you?re doing a great restoration job!! [emoji1303]🤙🏼


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Thanks Craig....little by little.....no light at the end of the tunnel yet....:)

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Thanks Craig....little by little.....no light at the end of the tunnel yet....:)



You?re welcome Tom! I know the feeling from working on my 90 that came from the Midwest and everything I touched needed work. My 95 from Cali is clean as a whistle. As long as your....?and then some? doesn?t end up with as many posts as the ?two word game? you?re good! 🤣 Take care and best wishes always!! 🤙🏼


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[Roadster]

Disassembly continues as the RS wheel well liners are now removed....greater access on this side to clean the frame with all of the debris in there...and also check and tighten any connections....if needed....[emoji16]
Pic #1...front RS back part of liner...years of dirt and grime...
Pic #2...definitely some cleanup needed here...
Pic #3...easy access for sure...
Pic #4...time to check all connections and tighten up what needs to be tighten....
Pic #5...backside of panel should be an easy cleanup...1458114582145831458414585

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[Roadster]

Finished the first real stripping and cleaning of the RS wheel well liners..and getting ready for paint.....interesting to note that since the ZR-1 has a wider stance from the front doors back...it really starts with the front rear wheel liner which is ZR-1 specific....having 2 part #'s on the back...and also date produced....14587145881458914590

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[Roadster]

Does anyone have an idea where to purchase this hose that attaches to the HVAC fan housing....it is part # GEA22....it is shown in the FSM... but no description....tried to check it out and found that it might be a drain hose...but idk...[emoji848]
Thanks for any info....[emoji16]145921459314594

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[Roadster]

More progress today.....side frame rail will not need paint like LS did....but top of frame at engine will...paint flaking off in that area... taking apart and cleaning all connectors and relay housings...
Still more to do....
Pic #1...dirt...grease and grime everywhere....major cleaning ahead...
Pic #2...finally got a pic of the Birmal head part #...
Pic #3...decent cleaning to begin with...time consuming for sure...but when it's done...it's done....145951459614597

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[Roadster]

So today I decide to take a break from cleaning and take apart the two belt tensioners....following the instructions from mgbrv8....the newer Dayco unit came apart fairly easy...I just need the correct tools to remove the spring and take apart the rest of the original tensioner...
Also followed recommendation from secondchance about the replacement metal pulley...just in case...
So I do an unscientific test...as I am no scientist by any stretch and find that the original pulley is probably on its way out.....due to the excessive free spin and the noise I am hearing when spinning...sounding like the bearing is shot...
So here are a few videos and some pics....all 3 pulleys have a looser fit on the original shaft ...and a much tighter fit on the parts replacement stud....although when tighten on the original stud...there is no play...
Cannot post video here...will do in the FB Group...
Pic #1...taking apart the parts replacement pulley...
Pic #2...need to remove this spring...
Pic #3...original pulley on the left...replacement on the right...both bolts have markings of 32 on them and are the exact same size...
Pic #4...metal pulley recommended by secondchance....14648146491465014651

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[Roadster]

Since everything is apart right now...this would be the best time to remove the rack & pinion and send it out for a rebuild....as there is now plenty of room to perform this operation....14653

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[Jagdpanzer]

Tom,
When we R&Red Yun's power steering rack a while back the long chassis bracket bolt was real challenge to get out. This can be improved for future removal by inserting the bolt from the other direction with nut on the top side as shown in this photo.
14654


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[secondchance]

Tom,
When we R&Red Yun's power steering rack a while back the long chassis bracket bolt was real challenge to get out. This can be improved for future removal by inserting the bolt from the other direction with nut on the top side as shown in this photo.
14654


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Good point!
Also, Tom, when you receive the steering rack after the rebuild, be sure to prime it good and paint with high quality (may be epoxy based) paint. My rebuilt rack is peeling paint and already looks cruddy.

[Roadster]

Tom,
When we R&Red Yun's power steering rack a while back the long chassis bracket bolt was real challenge to get out. This can be improved for future removal by inserting the bolt from the other direction with nut on the top side as shown in this photo.

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Thanks Phil....great idea on the bolt.....was looking at the FSM to check out the procedure for the rack removal....it does make a difference for sure with everything already removed....also thinking about removing the PS cooler as well...:)

Good point!
Also, Tom, when you receive the steering rack after the rebuild, be sure to prime it good and paint with high quality (may be epoxy based) paint. My rebuilt rack is peeling paint and already looks cruddy.

Was looking at Turnone for rack rebuild Yun.....it seems like some of the members have used them and are happy with their rebuilds....going to give them a call tomorrow....do you remember who you used for your rebuild???:)

[secondchance]

Was looking at Turnone for rack rebuild Yun.....it seems like some of the members have used them and are happy with their rebuilds....going to give them a call tomorrow....do you remember who you used for your rebuild???:)

I too used Turnone. Can?t remember who I talked to. First class operation.

[Roadster]

I too used Turnone. Can?t remember who I talked to. First class operation.

But you still recommend to do a repaint after it is returned??? Also did you send the whole rack....or did you remove the tie rods....and do you remember if you sent them parts to install or had them just replace with their parts....such as boots....etc...??? thanks for the info...:)

[secondchance]

But you still recommend to do a repaint after it is returned??? Also did you send the whole rack....or did you remove the tie rods....and do you remember if you sent them parts to install or had them just replace with their parts....such as boots....etc...??? thanks for the info...:)

https://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=27517

What you see on above post is what I sent them.
Originally I replaced the rack with rebuilt rack from Ecklers. But when the new rack didn?t solve vagueness issue, I had OEM rack rebuilt and re-installed. It turns out lower control arm rear bushings as well as slop in steering shaft contributed to steering slop. In retrospect, I may not have needed new or rebuilding of steering rack.
I did not send any parts to Turnone. Instead, I had Turnone disassemble and recommend what had to be replaced. I don?t exactly know why but I noticed recently that the rack was peeling paint and cosmetically not perfect.

[Roadster]

Thanks for the link Young.....after reading Rich's post..... "I got really concerned when backing that rack bolt out and it butted itself against the front cover of the motor. You and the pry bar became good friends."
I may reconsider the operation and just do a complete flush with the unit....as I have 70,000 miles on the car....and thought this would be as good time as any for removal....but if that particular rack bolt is going to butt up against the front cover of the motor:dontknow:....I'm thinking twice before moving forward....we shall see.. :neutral:

[Roadster]

Today was an extremely rewarding day....back to work on the 94 after taking a break from the 74....reading up on the steering rack removal and the PS pump removal...those jobs are now completed...a big thanks to Phil....Yung...and Jamall here on the Forum for their suggestions and advice....which helped out tremendously....
And a special thanks to my wife...as she helped me with an extra hand needed to remove the dreaded rack bolt...which took us all of 60 seconds after dinner...where I tried to do the impossible before dinner...she did great with the pry bar....
Some pics....:):)
Pic #1...pump removal....I cut the high pressure line to get the pump out....replacing it anyway as a new line is on the way....
Pic #2...all hoses need replacing...
Pic #3...straightened out a few fins on the PS cooler....otherwise in great shape....
Pic #4...interesting to note that one side of the cooler has the fins curved at the top...while the other side are all straight...
Pic #5...rag joint is in great shape...no need to change....
Pic #6...this bracket on the RS of the rack gave me trouble big time....
To be continued.....147801478114783147841478514786

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[Roadster]

Pic #7....had to think out of the box and used a pliers as an extension and a 1/2" socket to hold the bolt head....so I could undo the nut....this took the longest....really KIA....lol...
Pic #8...thanks again to my wife....a very big help....
Pic #9...all of 60 seconds and the bolt was out...
Pic #10...tools used for the bolt removal....thank you Jamall for the phillips head screwdriver tip.... worked great...
Pic #11...rack is out....
Pic #12...massive cleanup in order....can't wait....
147871478814789147901479114792

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[1991 Corvette ZR-1]

Tom, glad some of my wrenching was helpful to you. I know just enough to be dangerous, so I post my adventures to show people what not to do, ha! I?ve caught a case of the and then some, as well. Going to enjoy going back to the beginning of this thread and reading up to now.

[Roadster]

I hear you there Jamall... I always enjoy reading and seeing what other members are doing when working on their Z's....my goal now is to get everything completed and not having to do any serious wrenching in the future...that's why I'm still in the take apart stage....lol
Not getting any younger and I still have the 74 to also finish....at least it is home now...hope to be on the road with both Vettes by the Summer....I miss driving them...
Hope you enjoy the thread...I've learned a lot about the LT5 over the past 7 years....from everyone here on the Forum....[emoji16][emoji16][emoji16]


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[Prez1967]

This is going to be a big help once I start my rack/pump removal.

Should hopefully be ready to tackle it by Sunday.

What "phillips head screwdriver" tip are we talking about here? :)

[Roadster]

This is going to be a big help once I start my rack/pump removal.

Should hopefully be ready to tackle it by Sunday.

What "phillips head screwdriver" tip are we talking about here? :)

Glad it will be of help for you Prez1967....between Jamall's thread (1991 Corvette ZR-1) and here....hopefully you should be covered to the job.... .the phillips screwdriver was just used to to drive out the rack bolt with a hammer after undoing the nut on the bottom ...you will be able to tap out the bolt until the top of the bolt gets wedged against the engine... it will come out much easier if you have another person use a pry bar as shown in the pic....between the engine and the top of the bolt ever so slightly when the top of the bolt is wedged on the engine....as you use the screwdriver or another thin object with the hammer to drive the bolt out.... a few good wacks and it pops right out......:):)

[Roadster]

Was thinking about using Turn One as other members have used for their rack and pinion rebuilds.....have been doing further research and have found that Detroit Axle has new and remanufactured units in stock and for reasonable prices which includes outer tie rods and free shipping.....the only thing is that you need to return your unit to activate a lifetime warranty.....but you also have the option not to do so....
Talking with Detroit Axle....they did clarify that their New unit is New and has never been used on a vehicle.....and their remanufactured unit is just that...but the difference between a New and Remanufactured unit is $40....
So I'm thinking of going with a New complete unit and just keeping my original...instead of getting it rebuilt....
Has anyone used Detroit Axle??? thoughts.....:)

[Ccmano]

I have a steering rack that was rebuilt by Lone Star Caliper (the people Ecklers uses) for sale cheap. Has less than 200 miles on it. Will sell it out right, no core needed. PM if interested....
H
:cheers:

[Mystic ZR-1]

Great people at Lone Star Caliper!
Not just wholesale, give them a call!

[Roadster]

I have a steering rack that was rebuilt by Lone Star Caliper (the people Ecklers uses) for sale cheap. Has less than 200 miles on it. Will sell it out right, no core needed. PM if interested....
H
:cheers:

Great people at Lone Star Caliper!
Not just wholesale, give them a call!

Just saw these 2 posts....great offer and suggestion....but I already made the move yesterday and ordered the new rack from Detroit Axle....all items made in the USA....again this rack is brand new and has never been on another vehicle....it will be pressure tested and any other tests needed before shipment will be performed as per their email....
I really gave it some thought with Turn One....I'm sure they do an excellent job on the rebuild....but when you add up the boots and the tie rods and shipment cost....IMO....it will be more $$$ in the end....with Detroit Axle.... the rack comes complete with boots and the end tie rods attached....plus free shipping and if you decide to take advantage of their life time warranty...then you have to ship your rack to them....and they are providing a prepaid shipping label.....so IMO you can't beat it....the only downside is that living in PA they had to collect sales tax.....but even with that....it is a great deal.... now I just have to decide whether or not to keep or send back my original rack....I still have time to think that over....
They even provided me a tracking # this AM and it will be shipped by UPS and they will notify me when it gets shipped.....great communication as well....
Can't wait.....let the cleaning begin.....a full afternoon scheduled in the garage today....:):)

[Roadster]

Just arrived minutes ago ...high pressure pump to gear hose...just need to order the other 3 hoses...now back to the garage....[emoji16]14804

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[Roadster]

Simple question for anyone...IIRC the tube that come out of the top of the driver's side head and attaches to the airhorn....is that also part of the PVC system???
Looking into the hole in the head...it looks like a ton of carbon or whatever is clogged in there....should that be totally open...or is there a type of small filter in there that needs to be changed???
Thanks for any info....[emoji16]1480514806

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[JG95ZR1]

It?s a filter that can only be changed if you remove the valve covers. They are usually very brittle so I would poke at them. Jerry?s sells them.

https://www.jerrysgaskets.com/filter-cam-cover-vent-90-95-1b4/

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[Roadster]

It?s a filter that can only be changed if you remove the valve covers. They are usually very brittle so I would poke at them. Jerry?s sells them.

https://www.jerrysgaskets.com/filter-cam-cover-vent-90-95-1b4/

Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)Thanks for the info....think I'll pick one up just to have...this one is still very moist....

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[Roadster]

Pic #1....during the cleaning phase... that crud was caked on there...tough to remove....
Pic #2....cleaned and removed "o" ring....it did clean up good after this pic and is still very pliable...but I will probably replace...
Pic #3....LS head is cleaned...still plenty of cleaning to do...obviously much more accessible with everything out of the way....148101481114812

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[Roadster]

FYI....which may be common knowledge already....the pic shows the gear to cooler hose... what I found out is there is not a specific hose out there for the ZR-1 VIN J....but it appears that the VIN P hose is exact and IMO actually works out better as it is 18" in length...our hose in the pic is only 9" long...so a benefit for us...as all we need to do is cut to length...and therefore no need to make a custom hose and connector....

In the second pic....this is the clamp that attaches the hose to the cooler line....don't know if this clamp can be reused....or where to purchase....[emoji16]1481614817

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[Roadster]

Just got back from Auto Zone....they have the pump to reservoir hose by Duralast that is 36" long .. obviously you can do a few vehicles with it....they also have it by the foot....but it did not seem as strong as the packaged hose...the loose one felt like it would be prone to kink or even collapse under use....JMO...
The hose from the pump to the cooler is 3/8" and using fuel line hose which feels just as strong as the one its replacing....also ordered the VIN P gear to cooler hose online through another vendor....and will cut to fit....
The Duralast feels as strong as the original pump to reservoir hose...in that it will hold its shape in use....1481814819

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[secondchance]

FYI....which may be common knowledge already....the pic shows the gear to cooler hose... what I found out is there is not a specific hose out there for the ZR-1 VIN J....but it appears that the VIN P hose is exact and IMO actually works out better as it is 18" in length...our hose in the pic is only 9" long...so a benefit for us...as all we need to do is cut to length...and therefore no need to make a custom hose and connector....

In the second pic....this is the clamp that attaches the hose to the cooler line....don't know if this clamp can be reused....or where to purchase....[emoji16]1481614817

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I think those may be PEX crimp clamps. I don?t think they can be reused.
No sure of size but link is for 3/8?.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=3%2F8?+pex+ear+cinch+clamps&_sacat=0

[Roadster]

I think those may be PEX crimp clamps. I don?t think they can be reused.
No sure of size but link is for 3/8?.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=3%2F8?+pex+ear+cinch+clamps&_sacat=0

Will check them out.....thanks for the link....:)

[Roadster]

Gear to cooler VIN P hose came just a few minutes ago with the new rack...
Hose is a perfect match for our VIN J...screwed into the old rack perfectly...making sure it fits...no need to make new connections...also attached with PEX clamp at the top...just cut hose to size and add PEX clamp to the cooler tube end...and back in business... :):)1484214843

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[Roadster]

Unboxed the rack to check it out...everything looks good...only disappointment was that it did not include tie rod ends like was shown in the ad....will check it out...but probably get 2 new ones....most likely the greasable type...14844

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[WARP TEN]

Unboxed the rack to check it out...everything looks good...only disappointment was that it did not include tie rod ends like was shown in the ad....will check it out...but probably get 2 new ones....most likely the greasable type...14844

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What did the vendor say about the advertised tie rod ends?--Bob

[Roadster]

Another busy afternoon....more cleaning....what the inside of your rack support may look like...Pic #1...
Taking the time to get the support as clean as possible....Pic 2...
Grease and grime everywhere....
Pic #3...
Little by little....getting there...Pic #4
Second coat of RS front wheelwell liners....Pic #51484514846148471484814849

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[Roadster]

What did the vendor say about the advertised tie rod ends?--BobHello Bob....called them yesterday and mentioned that the end tie rods are in the pic on ebay...and that I was under the impression that they were included....all they needed was a pic of the rack in the shipping box... which I sent them...and no questions asked...they sent out 2 outer tie rods by UPS yesterday @NC....so it was really a very good buy with the purchase IMO....

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[WARP TEN]

Hello Bob....called them yesterday and mentioned that the end tie rods are in the pic on ebay...and that I was under the impression that they were included....all they needed was a pic of the rack in the shipping box... which I sent them...and no questions asked...they sent out 2 outer tie rods by UPS yesterday @NC....so it was really a very good buy with the purchase IMO....

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Glad to hear they took good care of you! --Bob

[Roadster]

Thanks Bob...received my outer tie rods the other day....and did some cleaning and painting today with more suspension parts....
All drying and ready for reassembly...
Also removed PS pump from the resovoir...wondering if you can rebuild the pump without removing the pulley???
Pic #1...sway bar before....
Pic #2...sway bar after...hanging out on the vise to dry...
Pic #3...sway bar and rack parts done..
Pic #4...more sway bar parts...done
Pic #5...sway bar cushions look in real good shape....but may replace anyway...1491214913149141491514916

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[Roadster]

Have new 26mm rubber sway bar cushions ordered and some other small items....did more cleaning today....PS reservoir was somewhat faded...did not want to repaint...so cleaned really well and use some trim shine and natural shine to achieve the look...looking decent...:):)
Pic #1...what it looked like after cleaning...
Pic #2...what it looks like now after treatment...don't know how long it will hold up...time will tell....
Pic #3...side view....
Pic #4...sway bar brackets and bolts painted and dried....also RS rack bracket cleaned and ready for install...
Pic #5..sway bar totally dry and ready for install...but not till front end cleaning is totally complete....1492614927149281492914930

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[1991 Corvette ZR-1]

The pulley will have to come off the pump to do a proper rebuild. OEM tools has a nice pulley puller kit for $25-$30. A hand clamp can be used to compress the rear cover to remove the retaining ring:

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-bar-clamp-96210.html?cid=paid_google%7C%7C%7C96210&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=&utm_content=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjPaCBhDkARIsAISZN7QjnGsgTdIHQq9EoJnp 0UbGJpLUihR9J8lLxbyitIYyVKR9VK2Bgg0aAmI9EALw_wcB

Afterwards, some compressed air through the reservoir tube will pop the rear cover out but have to make sure the high pressure side opening is plugged when you do it. You can thread a long bolt into the pump driveshaft with a washer, then use it in a vise like a slide hammer to pull the driveshaft and bearing out. You will need a press to press off the old bearing and press on a new one. Take a measurement of bearing to shoulder clearance on the pump driveshaft. I used a feeler gauge and I believe mine was .012 that could get through. .015 could not.

[Roadster]

The pulley will have to come off the pump to do a proper rebuild. OEM tools has a nice pulley puller kit for $25-$30. A hand clamp can be used to compress the rear cover to remove the retaining ring:

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-bar-clamp-96210.html?cid=paid_google%7C%7C%7C96210&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=&utm_content=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjPaCBhDkARIsAISZN7QjnGsgTdIHQq9EoJnp 0UbGJpLUihR9J8lLxbyitIYyVKR9VK2Bgg0aAmI9EALw_wcB

Afterwards, some compressed air through the reservoir tube will pop the rear cover out but have to make sure the high pressure side opening is plugged when you do it. You can thread a long bolt into the pump driveshaft with a washer, then use it in a vise like a slide hammer to pull the driveshaft and bearing out. You will need a press to press off the old bearing and press on a new one. Take a measurement of bearing to shoulder clearance on the pump driveshaft. I used a feeler gauge and I believe mine was .012 that could get through. .015 could not.

Thanks for the info....was going to try and do it here at home....but don't have a press....will be going out to the "garage" where my 74 lived for over 11 years....as Chris has everything that I will need....especially a press....just waiting for the kit to get here.....so will be about a week or so before the pump gets rebuilt...also will take out the tensioner and do that at the same time... only thing that is still giving me trouble is the thermostat housing....I may have to use heat on that.... :)

[Roadster]

Going over the PS pump earlier tonight....was getting ready to remove the pulley...and have now decided...it is not really necessary to do... although I have the pump rebuild kit on its way...my LT5 only has 70,000 miles...and even though it hasn't ran in almost 3 years...I have never has to add any PS fluid at all...and have never noticed any leaks...plus when spinning the pulley...there is absolutely no noise from the bearing at all....so rather then pull it all apart...I just have to remove and install the new high pressure hose... cleaned and ready to reattach to the reservoir..:):)
Pic #1...no need for a repaint...
Pic #2...not that much grease and grime here...
Pic #3...pulley part #10067476
Pic #4...other markings on the pump...I'm assuming the part #...
Pic #5...even cleaned the pulley grooves....1495214953149541495514956

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[1991 Corvette ZR-1]

Looking good, Tom. I did mine because I didn?t have anything else to do while waiting a few weeks to get my rack back. I?m pretty sure these pumps go way over 100K miles without issue. Did you try tightening those 8mm bolts on the oil pressure regulator cover yet? If you still have your rack out, I would give it a try. Mine were loose and the cover was wet with oil.

[Mystic ZR-1]

FWIW: Corvette Central has new power steering pumps for ZR-1s

https://www.corvettecentral.com/search?CurrentSearchCategoryId=&q=Steering+Pump&Catalogs=C4&utm_campaign=649777_Spring%20C4%20Email&utm_medium=email&utm_source=Corvette%20Central&dm_i=670C,DXDD,4QQL7R,1GEBN,1

[Roadster]

Looking good, Tom. I did mine because I didn?t have anything else to do while waiting a few weeks to get my rack back. I?m pretty sure these pumps go way over 100K miles without issue. Did you try tightening those 8mm bolts on the oil pressure regulator cover yet? If you still have your rack out, I would give it a try. Mine were loose and the cover was wet with oil.

Thanks Jamall....I am retightening every bolt that I have access to....some are tight and some need to be tighten just a little bit more....still need to do the oil pan and anything else underneath.....:)

FWIW: Corvette Central has new power steering pumps for ZR-1s

https://www.corvettecentral.com/search?CurrentSearchCategoryId=&q=Steering+Pump&Catalogs=C4&utm_campaign=649777_Spring%20C4%20Email&utm_medium=email&utm_source=Corvette%20Central&dm_i=670C,DXDD,4QQL7R,1GEBN,1

Thanks Doug....I'm going to stay with the original for now....as the 94 won't have a ton of mileage accumulated moving forward....appreciate the info...:)

[Roadster]

Did more repainting today...and parts came out really good....for anyone interested....I really like the Rusoleum 2X paint and primer series a whole lot....especially the Aluminum paint....which is sail to be a Metallic....but really spreads well and IMO doesn't have a ton of Metallic in it....giving you the more smoother look of Aluminum...again JMO....I have used Eastwood's paints and they are also good...but the 2X is really working extremely well for me and available at HD for a reasonable price....some pics....[emoji16]
Pic #1...was debating on painting or leaving natural....glad I painted...
Pic #2...brackets and tube also look good...
Pic #3...spare crossover pipe I had purchased....small dent...but no hole in one of the pipe neck's like my original...(which I might JB weld)... before paint...
Pic #4...after paint...
Pic #5...the 2X that really like...
Pic #6...also like this series as well...used this on the sway bars and brackets...and also the crossover pipe in Pic #4...149601496114962149631496414965

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[1991 Corvette ZR-1]

FWIW: Corvette Central has new power steering pumps for ZR-1s

https://www.corvettecentral.com/search?CurrentSearchCategoryId=&q=Steering+Pump&Catalogs=C4&utm_campaign=649777_Spring%20C4%20Email&utm_medium=email&utm_source=Corvette%20Central&dm_i=670C,DXDD,4QQL7R,1GEBN,1

It is not correct for LT5 fitment. The factory pumps have threaded holes on all three mounting points of the pump housing to bracket. The CC offered pump has just one at the 12 O?clock spot. The holes at the 9 and 3 spots are not threaded, meaning you would need new bolts with nuts to secure the pump to the bracket. Problem with that is there is zero room behind the pump for anything, just the pump housing. Also the back of the factory pump is notched at the 9 and 3 O?clock spots so that the main pump housing can fit into a recess in the head. The CC pump does not have this provision, so the pump will not mount in the bracket, which must also align with the AC compressor for a bolt to go through.

Not sure who sourced those and is marketing them as a direct replacement, but they are not. I am awaiting a refund after returning mine because I tried to use one of those offered by CC for ZR-1s.

[Mystic ZR-1]

... thought it sounded too good to be true.

[Roadster]

Since painting the coolant pipes 5 years ago and since they had some slight chips and marks on them....it was time to sand them down and repaint once again....also repeating myself.....I like this paint....:thumbsup:
Pic #1...sanded....
Pic #2...both pipes with two full coats and drying on the vise... they came out really good..:):)...1496914970

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[mpiecyk]

A multitask vise got-to-like it.
What kind of paint did you use?

[mpiecyk]

Thanks Roadster I found it on post 652.

[Roadster]

Glad you found it mpiecyk....

Need some opinions....as you can see in Pic #1....the replacement high pressure hose is not exactly the same configuration as the factory hose....as there is a slight bend near the connection to the pump...which the replacement hose does not have.....and the factory hose obviously gives more clearance between the line and the pulley...
Pic #2...shows the distance between the pulley and the tube...and that is with me bending the tube slightly....
Pic #3...is the measurement I get between the pulley and the tube... pulley spins freely....but I'm feeling a little uncomfortable with the clearance and don't want to destroy the tube by bending more... now the AC line looks to be about the same configuration as the factory line with which looks like the correct bends... in Pic #4....

Thoughts.....:dontknow::dontknow:
14971149721497314974

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[Roadster]

These parts are now fully dried and very satisfied with the results....looks like I will also redo the plenum...but will be somewhat of a challenge....since I am not going to remove the cables...thinking of a large "spray box" to keep the paint dust contained and spray the plenum before installing....:)14978

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[Roadster]

Alot going on this afternoon....removed the brake MC and the LF caliper.... taking the rest of the MC apart tomorrow....
Probably common knowledge...but you will need a 14mm (front line) and a 12mm (rear line) flared wrench to remove the attaching brake lines from the MC and a 13mm socket or wrench for removal from the brake booster....
Pic #1..looking at the bottom of the resovoir and you can see the crud buildup that has been going on for who knows how long....
Pic #2..although the fluid is somewhat clear in this jar...inside tells a different story...
Pic #3...if you look inside the resovoir at the top...you can see where I moved some of the crud buildup....
Pic #4...also with the resovoir removed...the crud is more prevalent....when you enlarge the pic...
Pic #5..."O" rings from the top of the cylinder....enlarge the pic to see how the crud buildup attached to the rubber....
Pic #6...after a good cleaning and washing...one "O" ring looks new... the other still have a spot or two where it appears the crud started eating into the rubber....but is still in great shape IMO......even after a good cleaning and wash...150011500215003150041500515006

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[1991 Corvette ZR-1]

Glad you found it mpiecyk....

Need some opinions....as you can see in Pic #1....the replacement high pressure hose is not exactly the same configuration as the factory hose....as there is a slight bend near the connection to the pump...which the replacement hose does not have.....and the factory hose obviously gives more clearance between the line and the pulley...
Pic #2...shows the distance between the pulley and the tube...and that is with me bending the tube slightly....
Pic #3...is the measurement I get between the pulley and the tube... pulley spins freely....but I'm feeling a little uncomfortable with the clearance and don't want to destroy the tube by bending more... now the AC line looks to be about the same configuration as the factory line with which looks like the correct bends... in Pic #4....

Thoughts.....:dontknow::dontknow:
14971149721497314974

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Tom, on the high pressure hose, maybe try some type of thread lock. I say that because I have the same fittings on my replacement hose. I torqued it down as far as I felt comfortable doing so. Everything was fine for a few weeks. This Easter Sunday, I lost my power steering and had to get a flat bed home. Today I went out to look everything over and the fitting had backed out enough to let fluid spray out until I was pretty much out of fluid.

I got lucky with a 16mm line wrench that I was able to snake through one of the holes on the pulley to retighten the fitting. Sure beats having to drain coolant to take the whole unit off to tighten one fitting. I got it as tight as I comfortably felt I could without stripping the threads. At the very least keep track of the thread(s) visible once it?s fully torqued down or put a mark on the fitting and on on the pump that line up so if the fitting does move, you can visually verify its backing out.

[Roadster]

Tom, on the high pressure hose, maybe try some type of thread lock. I say that because I have the same fittings on my replacement hose. I torqued it down as far as I felt comfortable doing so. Everything was fine for a few weeks. This Easter Sunday, I lost my power steering and had to get a flat bed home. Today I went out to look everything over and the fitting had backed out enough to let fluid spray out until I was pretty much out of fluid.

I got lucky with a 16mm line wrench that I was able to snake through one of the holes on the pulley to retighten the fitting. Sure beats having to drain coolant to take the whole unit off to tighten one fitting. I got it as tight as I comfortably felt I could without stripping the threads. At the very least keep track of the thread(s) visible once it?s fully torqued down or put a mark on the fitting and on on the pump that line up so if the fitting does move, you can visually verify its backing out.

Thanks for the tips Jamall.....I have another hose being delivered on Thursday....and that will give me the correct orientation when connecting the line....also will use thread locker or equivalent when securing that line.... I'm sure that was not a good feeling when you lost the power steering....glad you are up and running again....:):)

[Roadster]

Another busy day planned for later today....front brake caliper rebuild.... get the belt tensioner squared away...take apart the MBC...and see if the inside components can be cleaned and reused....
Also had been looking for a steering rag joint....just in case....and got delivered today....attached to the intermediate steering shaft....that I purchased...all in great shape...will take mine out for a closer inspection...didn't even unwrap it yet...:)15013

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[Roadster]

Had another busy day today...progress made on the following....
Pic #1...disassembled the MC...and removed 2 of the pistons....
Pic #2...first piston looks decent...have to clean and see what shape the "o" rings are in...
Pic #3...may be hard to see...but it looks like an Allen wrench is needed to remove the second piston...
Pic #4...bias spring piston also looks decent....but will have to clean and make final determination....15019150201502115022

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[Roadster]

Pic #1 & 2...popping the pistons for removal...
Pic #3...all 4 pistons removed.. rubber seals although not torn...will be replaced...
Pics #4 & 5.....inside the bores...not bad...some crud buildup...will be soaked and cleaned...1502315024150251502615027

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[Roadster]

Also got the belt tensioner apart...spring seems to be in real good shape...but you can tell the teflon tape has seen better days...we had a difficult time removing the spring...we read the article....but obviously missing something...as in spring removal...
The last pic we heated the tube to bend...and we were successful in bending the pipe....hopefully in the configuration that is needed to be away from the pulley...150281502915030

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[Roadster]

So I have been having this dilemma with the factory PS high pressure hose...the original and the replacement I bought last month... at the time if I knew that I was going to have this problem....I would have never cut my original hose...although doing that I learned about replacement hoses and from my observation....when they manufactured....again these are JMO's....
I just received another hose today from Craig....and the bends and orientation are exact as the factory hose...although the one Craig sent me has the same part # as the one I purchased last month....there appears to be and I am only assuming that there was a slight manufacturing change over the years ...it will be interesting if Craig remembers how long ago he made the purchase....because IMO...the latest ones out there are not totally correct as they are way to close to the pulley....
Some pics...
Pic #1...the hose that Craig sent me on the left and the original hose on the right....just about totally exact in their orientation....
Pic #2...the replacement hose I purchased last month on the left....and the original hose on the right...you don't even have to hold them together to see that they are not configured the same way...
Pic #3...the original hose on the left and the purchased replacement hose from last month on the right... that we heated to bend the tube...although far from perfect...a way better orientation that would be further away from the pulley if I ended up using this part...
Pic #4 & 5....this is Craig's part...and you can see....according to my reference points from the original setup....there is more room between the pulley and the tube...than there is in Pic #6 with the first replacement hose before heating that tube up yesterday...which is way too close....
My suggestion would be to find an older manufactured hose from awhile ago than the most recent ones...again JMO....:):)150351503615037150381503915040

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[HAWAIIZR-1]

So I have been having this dilemma with the factory PS high pressure hose...the original and the replacement I bought last month... at the time if I knew that I was going to have this problem....I would have never cut my original hose...although doing that I learned about replacement hoses and from my observation....when they manufactured....again these are JMO's....

I just received another hose today from Craig....and the bends and orientation are exact as the factory hose...although the one Craig sent me has the same part # as the one I purchased last month....there appears to be and I am only assuming that there was a slight manufacturing change over the years ...it will be interesting if Craig remembers how long ago he made the purchase....because IMO...the latest ones out there are not totally correct as they are way to close to the pulley....

Some pics...

Pic #1...the hose that Craig sent me on the left and the original hose on the right....just about totally exact in their orientation....

Pic #2...the replacement hose I purchased last month on the left....and the original hose on the right...you don't even have to hold them together to see that they are not configured the same way...

Pic #3...the original hose on the left and the purchased replacement hose from last month on the right... that we heated to bend the tube...although far from perfect...a way better orientation that would be further away from the pulley if I ended up using this part...

Pic #4 & 5....this is Craig's part...and you can see....according to my reference points from the original setup....there is more room between the pulley and the tube...than there is in Pic #6 with the first replacement hose before heating that tube up yesterday...which is way too close....

My suggestion would be to find an older manufactured hose from awhile ago than the most recent ones...again JMO....:)


Hey Tom, Happy to hear it worked out for you. I was worried for a bit. [emoji28] I bought the hoses in 2010. Thanks for the update and I hope your projects keep going well.......and then some. [emoji38]🤙🏼


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[Roadster]

Hey Tom, Happy to hear it worked out for you. I was worried for a bit. [emoji28] I bought the hoses in 2010. Thanks for the update and I hope your projects keep going well.......and then some. [emoji38][emoji1688]


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)Thanks Craig....very happy...no worries....here is a little more "and then some"...:)

So there are times I like to experiment....sometimes it works out....sometimes it doesn't.... this is one of those times where it did...
my front caliper brake pistons have seen better days.. of course with the thousands and thousands of repeated heat cycles when applying the brakes....what would you expect...the brake fluid was just baked on and there was no way I would attempt to do a rebuild without completely cleaning them before install....so I tried brake kleen...I tried soaking in the HD Simple Green solution....although these methods did some good...they were far from the results I was looking for....I imagine that I could have used the dremel...but sometimes me and the dremel can be dangerous at times....lol... I also used WD40 and even a high quality metal polish...but still not the results I was looking to achieve.... that's where the 3M 400 grit fine sandpaper came in....although there are still some stains in the inner bores.. .they are lighter in appearance and the baked on brake fluid around the outside rim is gone...just did this a few minutes ago...and as you will see in the pics...it really worked out well...I even have an extra piston on order...just in case...
Some pics....
Pic #1...2 & 3...you can see the crud buildup from over the years...
Pic #4...5 & 6...what a difference with a few minutes with the sandpaper by hand....
Now they will be ready for the rebuild...with new hoses...and painted calipers...next on the list...:):)150641506515066150671506815069

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[Roadster]

Making good progress today....one caliper and bracket now painted... removed inner seals from piston cylinder....did not use any sharp instrument...thus avoiding scaring the wall...used my finger and a toothpick...by the 4th one it came out in a second....lol...also still determined to get the second piston out of the MC....I tried a heavy duty pencil type magnet....it grabbed...but not strong enough to pull it out....wondering if there are different strengths of that type of magnet...it would be great if there is such a tool...it would pull right out..
Any ideas on that???
Thanks....some pics....:):)
Pic #1...first coat on the caliper...
Pic #2...second coat on the caliper and first coat on the bracket...will let dry at least 24 hours before even attempting to rebuild....
Pic #3...your finger and a toothpick work just fine for removal....
Pic #4...all front caliper pistons cleaned and sanded...now ready for the rebuild...
Pic #5...if only I had an extra strong type pencil magnet....this would pull right out....ideas anyone....1507215073150741507515076

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[Jagdpanzer]

Anyway you can get some compressed air behind it? If so be sure to have bunched up rag over the exit to catch it.

[Roadster]

Anyway you can get some compressed air behind it? If so be sure to have bunched up rag over the exit to catch it.

Thanks Phil....will try tomorrow....I don't know if the air will be below the piston enough to force it out....as I have to go through the bias piston opening or try the ports on the side....I may end up going with a new unit....been looking around to see what is out there....:).

[Jagdpanzer]

Have you tried pounding the exit end down by hand on a block of wood?


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[Roadster]

Have you tried pounding the exit end down by hand on a block of wood?


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)Yes....but I will try that again also....

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[Roadster]

Decided to try the Dorman MC unit from Auto Zone...20% off the $136 cost plus free overnight shipping....so for a total of $116 which included 6% sales tax...not bad....
The AutoZone site specifies that you call an 800 # (which is a 3rd party tech support) and give them your VIN # to insure getting the correct MC....which is part# NM3027
Speaking with the tech guy...the part is either made in Mexico or Singapore and will be listed on the box....my thought is maybe just switch the internals or all of the rubber seals to my original...if I can get that piston out....or just use the new unit and have the original as a rebuilt spare....
Also had a review on their site from another 94 ZR-1 owner from 2018 who gave it a 5☆ rating and said it worked perfect....we shall see...:):)15078

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[JG95ZR1]

Internals are not identical I tried but master cylinder works fine. I even installed the DRM bias spring in it


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[Roadster]

Internals are not identical I tried but master cylinder works fine. I even installed the DRM bias spring in it


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Thanks for the info....looks like this may be the way to go....:):)

[Roadster]

Just received overnight delivery of the Dorman MC....looks good...even supplied with a brake bleeder kit for the MC....will install the DRM bias spring....:):)
Pics #1& 2...looks like a well made unit...
Pic #3...includes bleeder kit...
Pic #4...I imagine a casting # on the bottom...
Pic #5... made in Taiwan...
Pic #6...again assuming casting # on bottom of original unit...similar...but not the same...150831508415085150861508715088

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[Roadster]

Between reorganizing my work stations in the basement the last few days...finished up the DRM bias MC spring tonight...another task completed....
Pic #1...that is the new Dorman MC in the pic..along the original bias spring piston at the top...that spring was a little crusty...the second spring is the Dorman spring...which is slightly smaller than the original spring still in the bore above...the bias spring at the bottom is the DRM spring which is much smaller overall...and the Dorman setup is different from the original setup in that there is no small spring at the top of the piston as shown in the pic...if you look at the replacement spring...you see a small white plastic piece...there is a spring that is incorporated there and that piece fits into the top of the bias spring... altogether a different approach... plus I would imagine that the two small springs probably serve a different purpose for each piston bore....
Pic #2...the top bias piston is the original and the bottom is from the Dorman....although the same size and mostly the same configuration with the "o" ring gaskets...there are some differences in the size and location of the fluid holes in the pistons themselves....
Pic #3...is when the job is completed and then you find the exact tool you needed for the job... still in the tool box...:rolleyes: had to use what I had at the time (in this pic) and needed to plastic tie the attachments to this snap ring tool...to keep it from moving allover the place...:eek:151431514415145

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[Roadster]

Few more items completed this afternoon...original coolant pipe is repaired and repainted....will be going back in service....:):)
Pic #1....just drying on the bench...
Pics #2 & #3...one of the very few times I have ever used JB Weld for a repair...let it cure overnight and then I did sand down after these pics were taken...
Pics #4 & #5...spent some time cleaning the RS front caliper the best that I could...ready for paint...
Pic #6...painted and drying out on the vise dryer....2 down...2 more to go....151651516615167151681516915170

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[HAWAIIZR-1]

Hey Tom,
What was the condition of the inside of your coolant crossover pipe? Mine was rusted inside. My friend in Japan had coolant squirting out from pin holes due to rust.


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[Roadster]

Hey Tom,
What was the condition of the inside of your coolant crossover pipe? Mine was rusted inside. My friend in Japan had coolant squirting out from pin holes due to rust.


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)Craig, the pipe is absolutely fine on the inside...just that one area that I repaired....but now you have me thinking about this...I will tape off the ends and fill with water and see what happens...:):)

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[Roadster]

Craig....just some minor surface rust...should have checked better before I painted....lol....will get some sandpaper and tape around the head of a long screwdriver and sand the inside of the pioe....just to be sure....:):)1517115172

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[HAWAIIZR-1]

Craig, the pipe is absolutely fine on the inside...just that one area that I repaired....but now you have me thinking about this...I will tape off the ends and fill with water and see what happens...[emoji16][emoji16]

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Tom, That is good news. I think you will be okay and mine was just sitting too long and maybe too much water (distilled) with 50/50 mix. His was spitting out the pin holes only when pressurized. Luckily I had an extra crossover pipe to send him at the time. I am going stainless from Phil. When I move back this will be my last before retiring so no more sitting Z and then some......


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[HAWAIIZR-1]

Craig, the pipe is absolutely fine on the inside...just that one area that I repaired....but now you have me thinking about this...I will tape off the ends and fill with water and see what happens...[emoji16][emoji16]

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Yours is beautiful compared to mine a few years ago.

151731


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[Roadster]

Tom, That is good news. I think you will be okay and mine was just sitting too long and maybe too much water (distilled) with 50/50 mix. His was spitting out the pin holes only when pressurized. Luckily I had an extra crossover pipe to send him at the time. I am going stainless from Phil. When I move back this will be my last before retiring so no more sitting Z and then some......


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Good choice on the stainless....Phil does great work....glad to hear retirement is getting closer for you....will be 5 years in June for me....and that has gone by really quick.....:):):thumbsup:


Yours is beautiful compared to mine a few years ago.

151731


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Wow....yours is really destroyed...glad you are replacing.....:):)

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Good choice on the stainless....Phil does great work....glad to hear retirement is getting closer for you....will be 5 years in June for me....and that has gone by really quick.....:):):thumbsup:









Wow....yours is really destroyed...glad you are replacing.....:):)



Yes Sir! I am 3-5 years away from retirement. Yep, I already replaced the one shown.


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[Roadster]

Yes Sir! I am 3-5 years away from retirement. Yep, I already replaced the one shown.


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:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::)

[Roadster]

Someone just mentioned to me that the JB Weld will eventually break off from the repair area in the future and cause problems.....as you can see...the area circled is the repair area I sanded down after taking this pic....I can drill it out and round off that area...and just leave it opened without the JB Weld.....as it will be covered by the hose down to the straight line shown...as we all know....which won't be leaking when attached...
Any thoughts on using the JB in the cooling system???
15176

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[Jagdpanzer]

Should be no problem if it's on the outside.

[Roadster]

Should be no problem if it's on the outside.It may be a problem as it is on the outside and the inside so the JB Weld would be exposed constantly to the coolant....I do have a spare coolant pipe which is in very good condition...so looks like....that is the way to go....

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[Roadster]

So the learning experience continues.....here is a pic with the JB removed from a few minutes ago....I was under the impression that when cured....it would hard as a rock...I was wrong.. just used a simple pick and it is now removed....this is the hole....in
Pic #1....
This is the spare in Pic #2.... that I just cleaned up again and it is the exact location as the pipe with the hole in it....I know....I know...use the spare....but how else do you learn without trying....I'm still determined to get the original in working order...but will end up using the spare....[emoji16][emoji16]1518715188

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[Roadster]

Spare coolant pipe prepped.... painted....and ready for service...
15198

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[Roadster]

Its been a fun few days recently.... had trouble getting the last piston in one of the calipers lastnight...and destroyed a spreader tool in the process....more later on that...
Today I intended to remove the AC evaporator...with the intention to replace if necessary....but I lucked out when I removed the blower fan and could see inside...no major dirt or obstructions to be seen....the camera got a few great views...I just might run a sweeper in there lightly against the fins to remove any real fine particles....this was major to say the least....a big time saver with another ongoing project....
Just need to get some replacement hoses from the heater core....tank etc...while it is apart....today definitely made up for lastnight... plus calipers are resprayed and finished....:):)
Pic #1...tank removed....like everywhere else on the car....a good cleaning is necessary....
Pic #2...glad I checked the evaporator without removing the brace first...lol....that would have been totally unnecessary...
Pic #3...first peak at the evaporator.. was I pleasantly surprised....
Pic #4...put the camera further inside and have a great pic of the evaporator....no major dirt or obstructions....:):)
Pic #5...and surprise....fan is really clean....no major dirt or any debris... but still will be completely cleaned...
Pic #6...part of the frame on the RS...needs and will be repainted.... looks like some type of leak was present at one time or another....152011520215203152041520515206

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[Roadster]

Front brake calipers are rebuilt with new rebuild kit and new pistons... Russell speed bleeders and Hawk brake pads....
had a tough time lastnight as previously mentioned....and broke the piston spreader tool....totally frustrated to say the least...then my wife checks out the last piston today and in a matter of minutes pulls a MacGyver and the final piston is seated... no spreader tool needed....lol
Another item completed....:):)
Pic #1...done....
Pic #2...new kit and new pistons...
Pic #3...did a respray today after last night's episode...
Pic #4...one done...
Pic #5...finally another job completed...glad this one is finished...1520715208152091521015211

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[WARP TEN]

Front brake calipers are rebuilt with new rebuild kit and new pistons... Russell speed bleeders and Hawk brake pads....
had a tough time lastnight as previously mentioned....and broke the piston spreader tool....totally frustrated to say the least...then my wife checks out the last piston today and in a matter of minutes pulls a MacGyver and the final piston is seated... no spreader tool needed....lol
Another item completed....:):)
Pic #1...done....
Pic #2...new kit and new pistons...
Pic #3...did a respray today after last night's episode...
Pic #4...one done...
Pic #5...finally another job completed...glad this one is finished...1520715208152091521015211

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Tom you have the right kind of wife! Mine wouldn't have a clue! --Bob

[Roadster]

Tom you have the right kind of wife! Mine wouldn't have a clue! --Bob

Thanks Bob.....
I am very fortunate to have her.:)....especially with 2 projects going on.....she just hopes I get them done before we turn 90....lol hopefully by this Summer...they will both be up and running.... she has also helped me on numerous occasions, she really made my day =D> when we got the last piston to seat....:):)

[Roadster]

Finally after a few months of trying to remove the thermostat housing from the hoses....did it occur to me that once the heater core hoses were removed that the entire hose assembly with the thermostat housing still attached...could be completely removed from the engine compartment...and then clamped into the vise for further operation....
Has anyone replaced or have had new hoses made in Pic #1....if so where did you get this done???....thanks for any info....
Pic #1...hose assembly laid out... can't find replacement assembly... anyone have any info????
Pic #2...sometimes you just have to do things the unconventional way...
Pic #3... talk about some corrosion...here...
Pic #4....and here...
Pic #5....and plenty here...1521515216152171521815219

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[HAWAIIZR-1]

Finally after a few months of trying to remove the thermostat housing from the hoses....did it occur to me that once the heater core hoses were removed that the entire hose assembly with the thermostat housing still attached...could be completely removed from the engine compartment...and then clamped into the vise for further operation....

Has anyone replaced or have had new hoses made in Pic #1....if so where did you get this done???....thanks for any info....

Pic #1...hose assembly laid out... can't find replacement assembly... anyone have any info????

Pic #2...sometimes you just have to do things the unconventional way...

Pic #3... talk about some corrosion...here...

Pic #4....and here...

Pic #5....and plenty here...



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Wow! And then some for sure!

I do not have any answers for you about the hoses, but Jerry has the new improved connector you should consider.

https://www.jerrysgaskets.com/nipple-heater-coolant-return-90-95-7c4/



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[Roadster]

Wow! And then some for sure!

I do not have any answers for you about the hoses, but Jerry has the new improved connector you should consider.

https://www.jerrysgaskets.com/nipple-heater-coolant-return-90-95-7c4/



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Thanks Craig....I already have 2 of them in stock....one from Jerry's and another from the parts store...

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[HAWAIIZR-1]

Thanks Craig....I already have 2 of them in stock....one from Jerry's and another from the parts store...

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Nice! Spare parts and then some![emoji1303]🤙🏼




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[Roadster]

Nice! Spare parts and then some![emoji1303][emoji1688]




Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)As you know Craig....there is always "and then some"....[emoji23]

Did a few more items today....
Pic #1...the thermostat housing and attaching parts are now painted and ready for install when the time is right...
Pic #2...although the thermostat and the hose fitting were corroded to an extent.....the inside of the housing was extremely clean with no crud buildup....
Pic #3...Also did a preliminary cleaning in this area...will probably used compressed air and blow out the heater core....hoping not to find any major crud in there....152251522615227

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[ghlkal]

Thought I would start a new thread for Throttle Body removal.


Thanks for doing this Tom. I've followed this thread and now that I need to change my AC compressor, I just checked the beginning so I could get the TB off. I've had my plenum off 4 times, but I'm hoping its easier just to take the TB off and get to the compressor.



The FSM says "remove bolts," but it doesn't say how many. 4 are easy to spot, but I'm glad I read this so I knew to remove 5!


Gary

[Roadster]

Thanks for doing this Tom. I've followed this thread and now that I need to change my AC compressor, I just checked the beginning so I could get the TB off. I've had my plenum off 4 times, but I'm hoping its easier just to take the TB off and get to the compressor.



The FSM says "remove bolts," but it doesn't say how many. 4 are easy to spot, but I'm glad I read this so I knew to remove 5!


Gary

Hello Gary....glad that this thread is helping you out.....I know that we all have our way of doing things....and I am not implying that my way is the correct way...but I hate messing with the TB....unless I have to...as when I took it off to clean and reinstall way back when....so rather than take the TB off....I rather undo the plenum and prop it up with a small block of wood in the front and IIRC....that may give you more than enough room to remove and reinstall the AC compressor....remember that my front end has been apart for almost 3 years.....lol..(I just looked at my AC removal posts) and I like removing the plenum...if propping it up doesn't give you enough room.....if you do end up removing the TB and not remove the throttle cable or the TPS etc.......you should be fine with the reinstall and not affect your settings....as you more than likely know... I have my replacement AC compressor which is ready to go....and have a vacuum pump to do a vacuum pull....once I get everything together....and IIRC our system holds 8oz of compressor oil.....I think that I listed that somewhere in the thread....found it...post #446....also I bought from a company that deals directly with Denso....and I called Denso and spoke to the tech rep there... the replacement compressors come from the factory with 4.1oz of oil as mentioned in post #446....so be sure not to over or under fill the system... and depending on the year (as yours is a 90) make sure to use the correct oil for the type freon you have in your system....again...things you already know...good luck and keep us posted on how it works out...as I will be doing the same thing once I get the car back together....lol:):)

[ghlkal]

Good thoughts Tom :thumbsup:
It might have been just as easy to pull the plenum, but I did get to the AC compressor by removing the TB.


Now ... my issue is the replacement Denso compresssor has a different electrical connector on it, so I need to swap, but I also need to figure out which terminal should be + and which - :confused: [mine is a '90]



I an running R134a and I'll ensure it's PAG if I need to add any.


Gary

[Roadster]

Some FYI....which already be common knowledge to some...if you need to replace the coolant reservoir hose that attaches to the heater core...I found that the AC Delco hose is reasonable and made in the USA...purchased from Rock Auto....I still need to decide which way I will replace and attach the coolant hoses going back into the thermostat housing from the firewall...maybe using a different configuration....
Also ran compressed air through the heater core and was happy to see a very small amount of coolant go into the container with absolutely no crud or anyother type of obstructions in the core...I will need to get the remaining refrigerant out of the AC Evaporator....that way I can add the proper amount of refrigerant oil to the dryer to give me a total of 8oz of oil after the vacuum pull is completed....:):)15306

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[Roadster]

Good thoughts Tom [emoji106]
It might have been just as easy to pull the plenum, but I did get to the AC compressor by removing the TB.


Now ... my issue is the replacement Denso compresssor has a different electrical connector on it, so I need to swap, but I also need to figure out which terminal should be + and which - :confused: [mine is a '90]



I an running R134a and I'll ensure it's PAG if I need to add any.


GaryGlad you got it installed Gary....here is the PAG 46 oil I will be using... ended up buying two containers at two different times...lol...now I'll have a backup...."and then some"..lol.....since I'll only have to add 3.9oz once I empty the evaporator for a total of 8oz.....:):)15307

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[Roadster]

Had a chance to get the tensioner prepped and painted today....here are the end results with the last pic showing prepped and ready for paint...15486154871548815489

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[Roadster]

The following pics are the inners of the original LT5 tensioner and the the Dayco "replacement" tensioner... which some parts are used in the original...
Pic #1...original parts on the left... replacement parts on the right...
Pic #2...may cleanup the left part and reuse...or use the newer plastic piece on the right...
Pic #3...although these two parts look identical...they have different part #'s and the collar orientation are opposite of each other...
Pic #4...original pulley on the far left...correct Dayco replacement in the middle...and the steel replacement referred to on the right as mentioned in a thread here in the Forum...
Pic #5...new spring on the left... original spring on the right...notice how the original is slightly expanded more than the replacement... I am assuming that this is due to normal wear over the years....I am also assuming that either spring will work just fine....but I will use the new spring....1549515496154981549915500

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[Roadster]

Although I have no desire to build another one...this was a learning experience and now know a few more things....ended up doing a resand and repaint...and worth the time...now that it's done....ready for install....whenever that will be..:):)
1550815509

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[Matt B]

Great job! Highly appreciate that you shared your work!

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[Roadster]

Great job! Highly appreciate that you shared your work!

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Thanks Matt B......:):)

[staminqia]

Wow it took me two days to read this entire thread. Roadster you have a lot of Patience my friend. Loved all the details and great work. I wished you lived closer to me as I would have lend a hand just to learn what you are going through but I have learned a ton.

The thread title "TB removal and then some" THEN SOME no doubt!!

Thanks again and I cant wait till you get that Black beast out on the road.

[Roadster]

Wow it took me two days to read this entire thread. Roadster you have a lot of Patience my friend. Loved all the details and great work. I wished you lived closer to me as I would have lend a hand just to learn what you are going through but I have learned a ton.

The thread title "TB removal and then some" THEN SOME no doubt!!

Thanks again and I cant wait till you get that Black beast out on the road.

Hello stamingla,....thanks for the compliments.....glad reading the thread has helped you out....a big part of what I've learned comes from being a WAZOO member with all of the great knowledge within the Group....plus members here on the Forum....also reading Marc Haibeck's info on his site.....and reading as much as I can about the LT5...and also trying to figure out some things on my own....I know alot more now than I did when I purchased the 94 back in April 2014.....yes I am a patient kind of person....:)....been known to redo things over and over again....until I'm satisfied with the results....lol but then that is me....lol.....can't wait to get the Z back on the road myself.... as its been 3 years this June....and with the 74 now home....having 2 projects to complete and being retired doesn't help much....lol...lol
btw....if you want to check out another thread I did on front fender well cover restoration...then click on the link for that info....yes we live on opposite sides of the State....too bad we are not closer as you mentioned....:):)
https://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=27471

[staminqia]

Hello stamingla,....thanks for the compliments.....glad reading the thread has helped you out....a big part of what I've learned comes from being a WAZOO member with all of the great knowledge within the Group....plus members here on the Forum....also reading Marc Haibeck's info on his site.....and reading as much as I can about the LT5...and also trying to figure out some things on my own....I know alot more now than I did when I purchased the 94 back in April 2014.....yes I am a patient kind of person....:)....been known to redo things over and over again....until I'm satisfied with the results....lol but then that is me....lol.....can't wait to get the Z back on the road myself.... as its been 3 years this June....and with the 74 now home....having 2 projects to complete and being retired doesn't help much....lol...lol
btw....if you want to check out another thread I did on front fender well cover restoration...then click on the link for that info....yes we live on opposite sides of the State....too bad we are not closer as you mentioned....:):)
https://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=27471


I will definently read that post. Will you be at Carlisle in a few months?

[Roadster]

I will definently read that post. Will you be at Carlisle in a few months?Thanks....I intend to be....did some work on the Z today....but still more to do...[emoji16][emoji16]

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[Roadster]

Got back to work on the Z today... primarily cleaning on the RF suspension...as mentioned many times before....the amount of grease and grime accumulated over the years is something...but cleans up relatively easy...although time consuming getting into every nook and cranny is worth it in the end...
Also checking out the control arm bushings...there are some cracks in the uppers...they still should last for many years with the amount of planned miles for future years... plus don't know if I want to dig further into the suspension at this time...although this would be the perfect time to do it....[emoji848][emoji848]
Pic #1...primarily cleaning...still more to do...
Pic #2...amount of grease allover the lower ball joint....
Pic #3...that brace by the lower control arm was all covered with grease...notice the 2 spots of grease there compared to the cleaned part of the brace...nice to be clean...
Pic #4...this is time consuming when in the garage....as you can't use a power washer to get done quicker...so you do what you can do...
Pic #5...upper front control arm bushing...although cracks...should still last for a while...
Pic #6...upper rear control arm bushings...cracks....but I have seen worse...still would be the right time to do the job...but do I want to get in that deep....[emoji848][emoji848]155951559615597155981559915600

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[Roadster]

Don't know if anyone is interested....but C&S Corvette just updated their web site about a hour ago with the SuperPro bushing kit back in stock.... I decided to go for it and just made the purchase....looks like the Z will take just a little bit longer to get back together....but should be worth it for sure.... :)
https://www.corvettepartscenter.com/collections/c4/products/late-1988-1996-corvette-suspension-bushing-kit

[secondchance]

Tom,

When I redid my front suspension, lower control arm bushing replacement was easy. Upper, not so easy. At the time, corvette control offered re-bushed uppers and that is what I used.
When I searched today, couldn?t find the same at corvette central but corvette mods website turned up below. Doesn?t say left or right or both. Might want to give them a call.
https://www.corvettemods.com/C4-Corvette-1984-1996-Control-Arm-w-Ball-Joint_p_9033.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwn6GGBhADEiwAruUcKu NkP-dHx5kQ7MA7qamzl7BYrJ144f4eviK1WAn0EhJmMKKhKl15DhoC 6osQAvD_BwE

[Roadster]

Tom,

When I redid my front suspension, lower control arm bushing replacement was easy. Upper, not so easy. At the time, corvette control offered re-bushed uppers and that is what I used.
When I searched today, couldn?t find the same at corvette central but corvette mods website turned up below. Doesn?t say left or right or both. Might want to give them a call.
https://www.corvettemods.com/C4-Corvette-1984-1996-Control-Arm-w-Ball-Joint_p_9033.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwn6GGBhADEiwAruUcKu NkP-dHx5kQ7MA7qamzl7BYrJ144f4eviK1WAn0EhJmMKKhKl15DhoC 6osQAvD_BwEHello Yun, thanks for the suggestion ....I have been reading up alot on the control arm builds and see that the uppers can be problematic...and there is info over on CF from members there who have listed ways to get the job done...hopefully that will also work out for me....
As far as Corvette Mods go....I stay away from them....based on multiple members in my FB Corvette Groups....99% have had bad experiences with them and won't use them again...
I keep getting deeper into the 94... someday I'll get it back together...
Hope everything is well on your end...and that your 94 is running good....[emoji16][emoji16]

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[Roadster]

I have a very simple question and need a very simple answer[emoji848][emoji23] what is the secret to remove the actuator from the top of the shocks....I removed the spring clip....and I realize that they have been on there forever...and I have some ideas on what to do...but sometimes my ideas turn into destruction...[emoji38].....so what do you recommend....thanks for any info....[emoji16][emoji16]15601

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[WARP TEN]

Tom as I recall after you remove the spring clip you simply pull up on the actuator gently. Here is one write up from Dynomite's "Solutions" section about it:

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=19300

Others may chime in but I think that is it. --Bob

[1991 Corvette ZR-1]

If I remember, the retainer wire is taken out and the solenoid should lift off. Rotating it some by hand as you pull up may help.

[Roadster]

Thanks WARP TEN (Bob) and 1991 Corvette ZR-1 also....for the tips....
I sprayed the left shock and let it sit over a few nights...but I don't think that it made any difference....as I did what was suggested and pulled up and slightly applying more force and it came off...rightside came off in a few seconds.... .both leftside and rightside gears...and inside both cups.....looking in great shape...although rightside has more inside crud.....:):)15636156371563815639

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[Roadster]

LF steering knuckle removed....needs a good cleaning to look like new again....wheel hub spins freely in both directions..with no bearing noises.....so no need to change out the hub/bearing assembly....both ball joints were checked before removal....and no excess movement was found...
lower ball joint cover needs replacement...as it is ripped....
Moving along...control arm removal is next....[emoji16][emoji16]156471564815649

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[Roadster]

Just arrived today...looking forward to the install... should be interesting...[emoji16][emoji16]15662

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[Roadster]

More progress made this afternoon...steering knuckles and upper control arms removed... was debating on whether or not to replace the ball joints...but decided it would be the best thing to do now...both uppers did not feel smooth at all...along with one bottom joint...just did not move freely from side-to-side....no real play in any of them....but now is the time for replacement....plus more cleaning needed for sure...156681566915670

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[Flyman 27]

If you haven't purchased your ball joints & tie rods yet, I can recommend Holly's line of "ProForged" products. Very well made & not too pricey.
If you decide to try them, buy directly off the Holly website, everyone else drop ships them.

[Roadster]

If you haven't purchased your ball joints & tie rods yet, I can recommend Holly's line of "ProForged" products. Very well made & not too pricey.
If you decide to try them, buy directly off the Holly website, everyone else drop ships them.

Thanks Flyman 27......DL Merrill in the ZR-1 FB Group also recommended the same...and to also buy from Holley.....I imagine they would also arrive sooner..:)

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Tom,
May my ZR-1 be next please?
I will include months ( years) of beer and doughnuts!
GREAT WORK!
:cheers:
Marty

[dredgeguy]

Hey Marty, get in line or up the ante....Tom has a standing offer from me for unlimited beer and BBQ! Guess if mine is next in line you are as well....just a few owners removed:)

[Roadster]

Tom,
May my ZR-1 be next please?
I will include months ( years) of beer and doughnuts!
GREAT WORK!
:cheers:
Marty

Hello Marty......I might have to take this offer into careful consideration.....lol:jawdrop:....the guys at your shop would have this done in no time.....:).....thank you for the compliment....getting there.....:)

Hey Marty, get in line or up the ante....Tom has a standing offer from me for unlimited beer and BBQ! Guess if mine is next in line you are as well....just a few owners removed:)

Very true Charlie....you were and are first in line.....especially with this :jawdrop: offer with unlimited BBQ......I might be very tempted for sure....:)


Appreciating the kind words from both of you....but after the 94 and the 74 are back on the road....this will be it for me....looking forward to just maintaining and detailing from then on out....if I was doing 8 hrs or more a day...they would both be on the road now....but when you're retired and adhere to the "3 W's" (do what I Want...when I Want...and if I want)...well it just takes a little more time....especially when you are adding....."And Then Some" to the equation.....:):)

[Roadster]

Both upper control arms were removed on Thursday....here are a few pics of the LS....will be taking my time with removing and installing the bushings and the ball joint....plus a total cleanup of the arms....next up is to remove the lowers....should happen sometime this weekend....

This last pic is for you Marty....as in late 2008 I applied for the loan at your bank for the 74...I remember that meeting well as we talked Corvettes and you were interested in hearing about the BB 74 that I was purchasing....after 11 1/2 years at my friends garage....the 74 finally came home last June....and with ZR-1 work and some 74 work thrown in there....there is still more to do...but I'll get there....once I get the 74 done Marty, I will drive down to your showroom...as I would like you to see it in person....looking forward to that time real soon.... and again a thanks to you.. as you were instrumental in my purchase for my 74...:):):thumbsup:156791568015681

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[Roadster]

Removed the hubs from the steering knuckles today and started a major cleanup....debating on whether to paint them or leave natural....if the RS comes as clean as this LS... probably will leave natural finish...
Pic #1...took awhile...but worth the effort...
Pic #2...even though nobody will see this...just had to get it right...
Pic #3...LS part# if anyone ever needs it...
Pic #4...before taken apart....lots of grime over the years....
Pic #5...difference between one done and one getting ready to get done...1570215703157041570515706

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[Roadster]

Finished up both knuckles tonight... might do more cleaning to get some stains out....the RS is in the first 2 pics....then both sides of them cleaned...the RS part# in case anyone needs it... and what looks to be a production sampling in the last pic....both sides had different stampings....so they could have been made in different plants....157271572815729157301573115732

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[Roadster]

Made more progress recently....decided to leave the knuckles in their natural state...and not paint them....did another cleaning and have one put back together with a new hub...and torqued to specs....still have to remove the lower control arms and put an order in for ball joints...
157561575715758

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[Flyman 27]

I highly recommend the ProForged ball joints & tie rods. They are very good quality.
You have to go to the Holly website>
Ball joints: https://www.holley.com/brands/proforged/products/suspension_and_chassis/ball_joints/
Tie rods:https://www.holley.com/brands/proforged/products/suspension_and_chassis/steering_components/tie_rod_ends/

[Roadster]

I highly recommend the ProForged ball joints & tie rods. They are very good quality.
You have to go to the Holly website>
Ball joints: https://www.holley.com/brands/proforged/products/suspension_and_chassis/ball_joints/
Tie rods:https://www.holley.com/brands/proforged/products/suspension_and_chassis/steering_components/tie_rod_ends/

Appreciate the links Flyman 27....hope to put an order in next week for the ball joints.....I already have the tie rods ends that were include with my new rack and pinon from Detroit Axle.....going to be exciting getting the front end back together....hopefully soon....and then on to the rear suspension and brakes...:)

[Roadster]

Went to the local tire store and got the nuts removed from the uppers... saved me a lot of aggravation....as I don't have the strength anymore... plus the air wrench did not do the job completely as he also used a breaker bar in-between the air wrench and finally got them done...took all about 15 minutes...
In the second pic you can see the marks from the vise....even though that part is not totally visible when installed....what type of sanding would you do to eliminate some of those marks???1578615787

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[Jagdpanzer]

Quarter sheet palm sander with 225 grit paper will make it go away.

[Roadster]

Quarter sheet palm sander with 225 grit paper will make it go away.

I will try that out....thanks Phil....:)

[Corvette95]

Are there any ball joints yet that use rivets like factory vs aftermarket screw and nut version? Thanks!!!

[Roadster]

Are there any ball joints yet that use rivets like factory vs aftermarket screw and nut version? Thanks!!!I have not found any....getting ready to put my order in for both uppers and lowers this week....

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[Roadster]

So just a little story about the members we have in the Forum... and not mentioning any names.... but a few weeks ago a member contacted me about hubs that he had for sale with very low mileage on them....for an excellent price....and I made the purchase....as I went to install the second hub....there was what seemed to me a binding or clunking feeling when rotating the hub back and forth 2 to 3 inches....I did not feel comfortable with this....and contacted the seller that I would be sending this back to him...hoping that he still had the receipt for this part to send back to the vendor and maybe get a refund or credit towards another purchase....I had absolutely no intention or thought of asking for any type of refund at all... well shortly after I sent the PM to him....within a few minutes I received a message from ebay that my account had been credited for 1/2 my purchase price....I was totally surprised to say the least.... because as I mentioned I wasn't looking for or requesting any type of refund....I do not want to mention his name....but he is to be commended for his actions....which was and is greatly appreciated....as I used the funds towards another hub assembly.....this just goes to show you the great members that we have in the ZR-1 community... who go above and beyond to help out their fellow ZR-1 brothers...
Thank you sir.....
I received the new hub yesterday and like many other parts being made, even though it is a Timken hub...it is made overseas....I will cleanup my originals and put them away for the future if ever needed...158241582515826

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[Roadster]

So I'm looking at the knuckles and even though I cleaned them again for the second time....and they looked decent.....I still wasn't satisfied with the results.....so out to the outside paint booth a short while ago....and this is the result....as they are drying in the drying rooms.....still undecided whether or not to give them a few shots of clear....we shall see....
Pic #1...all taped up....
Pic #2...ready for paint...
Pic #3...hanging out to dry...
Pic #4...had no intention of removing the one hub I put together just to paint...
Pic #5...came out good even with the one hub installed...1582715828158301583115832

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[Jagdpanzer]

Hi Tom,
Rust Prevention Magic (RPM) works great for keeping bare steel and iron surfaces rust free for extended periods. Three years ago used the stuff on the bare metal surfaces on a pair of SKF tear bearing hubs and all of half shaft unjoints. Was under the car the other day and still no visible sign of surface rust. It's a wax-like surface protectant that goes on easy with a flux brush after heating up the part a little with a heat gun. Hand held hair dryer will also work.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ITVG8IK?ref=detail_main_image_block_ivx_share

[Roadster]

Hi Tom,
Rust Prevention Magic (RPM) works great for keeping bare steel and iron surfaces rust free for extended periods. Three years ago used the stuff on the bare metal surfaces on a pair of SKF tear bearing hubs and all of half shaft unjoints. Was under the car the other day and still no visible sign of surface rust. It's a wax-like surface protectant that goes on easy with a flux brush after heating up the part a little with a heat gun. Hand held hair dryer will also work.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ITVG8IK?ref=detail_main_image_block_ivx_share

Thanks for the info and the link Phil....looks like a really great product as you mentioned.....will probably order this and use on the control arms and the rear suspension....the Krylon paint I used on the knuckles and other parts that I painted or repainted again....is a combo primer and paint with a rust inhibitor.....so hopefully I won't have to be concerned with those parts in the future...and don't want to paint the rear pieces if I don't have to....so that RPM product will workout just fine....:):)

[XfireZ51]

So just a little story about the members we have in the Forum... and not mentioning any names.... but a few weeks ago a member contacted me about hubs that he had for sale with very low mileage on them....for an excellent price....and I made the purchase....as I went to install the second hub....there was what seemed to me a binding or clunking feeling when rotating the hub back and forth 2 to 3 inches....I did not feel comfortable with this....and contacted the seller that I would be sending this back to him...hoping that he still had the receipt for this part to send back to the vendor and maybe get a refund or credit towards another purchase....I had absolutely no intention or thought of asking for any type of refund at all... well shortly after I sent the PM to him....within a few minutes I received a message from ebay that my account had been credited for 1/2 my purchase price....I was totally surprised to say the least.... because as I mentioned I wasn't looking for or requesting any type of refund....I do not want to mention his name....but he is to be commended for his actions....which was and is greatly appreciated....as I used the funds towards another hub assembly.....this just goes to show you the great members that we have in the ZR-1 community... who go above and beyond to help out their fellow ZR-1 brothers...
Thank you sir.....
I received the new hub yesterday and like many other parts being made, even though it is a Timken hub...it is made overseas....I will cleanup my originals and put them away for the future if ever needed...158241582515826

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In process of using these same hubs on my ZR within the next several days.
Left front has a slight wobble to it.

[Roadster]

In process of using these same hubs on my ZR within the next several days.
Left front has a slight wobble to it.Keep us posted on the install...I'm still a ways from installing mine...

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[Roadster]

So today grandson #1 comes over and we work on the 74 installing the heat barrier and trial fitting the carpet on the driver's side....
After he left for work...I cleared the steering knuckles for the ZR-1....and what a real nice finish it produced....toned down the shine from previously getting painted....I'm liking the results....
Pic #1...results from the clear coat...
Pic #2...nice toned down finish...
Pic #3...what they looked like after painted as posted in a previous thread...
Pic #4...heat barrier installed on the 74...
Pic #5...trial fitting the driver's side carpet for the 74....trimming needed...1583815839158411584215843

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