Suspension Settings

[Harvie]

There have been a zillion attemps over the years to try and do it, you pay the money and the vendors go away. Only one has ever proven to work with the top on or off....weld a roll bar in once and the fix is done forever..

It does not cost that much to do it once and do it right.

I did it in 94-95 and it cost me about $50 for the welding materials (I tigged it in) prebent 2" steel tube, fiberglass mat., resin, harder & 6 pac for the painter to touch up under the rug in rear compartment when I finished.

In addition I use it for my shoulder harness anchor and to hold the fire extinguisher.

[Kevin]

Originally Posted by Harvie

There have been a zillion attemps over the years to try and do it, you pay the money and the vendors go away. Only one has ever proven to work with the top on or off....weld a roll bar in once and the fix is done forever..

It does not cost that much to do it once and do it right.

I did it in 94-95 and it cost me about $50 for the welding materials (I tigged it in) prebent 2" steel tube, fiberglass mat., resin, harder & 6 pac for the painter to touch up under the rug in rear compartment when I finished.

In addition I use it for my shoulder harness anchor and to hold the fire extinguisher.

This is a great idea.....for those who want to hack up their cars. For those of us who don't We have to make do with other options.

[XfireZ51]

Originally Posted by Kevin

just bought that set up, haven't put it on, but I drove David's car with it and had to buy one. Makes a huge difference

=Jeff= has done this and REALLY likes it. Wish it was a 250-300 upgrade.

[Harvie]

Originally Posted by Kevin

This is a great idea.....for those who want to hack up their cars. For those of us who don't We have to make do with other options.

Many many people have seen my blue car and none has ever muttered the word "hack" about anything on or in my car. Most the time it is "Holy s who the f took the time and spent the money to do that.

Remember I never "hack up" anything. Anything I ever do is to improve on a fault and is done professionaly and correctly. Plus my roll bar could be removed and the areas modified could be restored to stronger and undistinguishable areas...if anyone ever wanted.

As matter of fact, the dealership that my car sat in for over a year while GM tried to correct the ecm short, had so many people ask about the "roll bar option" in my car they got 10 jobs to copy my roll bar from other ZR1 owners.

Those owners were modifing newish 80K cars not todays 20-25 year old 15-20K cars.

Lowes charged $1250 for the complete job in the mid 90s including new Simpson 4 point harnesses and FE..

But try what you wish, the correction is solid welding in of a reinforcement like 99.5% of the race/track cars did, not the bolting in the new $400-$500 attempt at the fix.

Do it once, do it right, get it over with.....it is much cheaper in the long run.

[PhillipsLT5]

try a harness bar

[Kevin]

Originally Posted by Harvie

Many many people have seen my blue car and none has ever muttered the word "hack" about anything on or in my car. Most the time it is "Holy s who the f took the time and spent the money to do that.

Remember I never "hack up" anything. Anything I ever do is to improve on a fault and is done professionaly and correctly. Plus my roll bar could be removed and the areas modified could be restored to stronger and undistinguishable areas...if anyone ever wanted.

As matter of fact, the dealership that my car sat in for over a year while GM tried to correct the ecm short, had so many people ask about the "roll bar option" in my car they got 10 jobs to copy my roll bar from other ZR1 owners.

Those owners were modifing newish 80K cars not todays 20-25 year old 15-20K cars.

Lowes charged $1250 for the complete job in the mid 90s including new Simpson 4 point harnesses and FE..

But try what you wish, the correction is solid welding in of a reinforcement like 99.5% of the race/track cars did, not the bolting in the new $400-$500 attempt at the fix.

Do it once, do it right, get it over with.....it is much cheaper in the long run.

cut up your car all you want, I do not chose to do that.

[XfireZ51]

I know Pete installed a roll bar connecting the two towers in the rear hatch. He commented that his ZR now drove like a C5 chassis.

[Harvie]

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

I know Pete installed a roll bar connecting the two towers in the rear hatch. He commented that his ZR now drove like a C5 chassis.

NO don't do it you will void your warranty and ruin the resale value. (I heard that 100s no 1000s of times.)

I don't know C5s but I do know 20 point roll bar cars with full ladder bar setups pretty well.

My name is the same also... plus in the above, you can pick up 3 wheels from any corner. Yea stiff. That is how one preloads a suspension for different tracks.

[RussMcB]

Originally Posted by Harvie

<snip> ... the correction is solid welding in of a reinforcement like 99.5% of the race/track cars did ... <snip>

Harvie, are you referring to a 4-point bar? Or something different?

Reason for asking: I can see how a full cage (6 or 8 attachment points) will certainly stiffen the chassis a ton, but not sure how much a 4-point bar would address the problem (loss of structure rigidity due to targa design). It's my understanding that a 4-point bar is a big plus for safety, but doesn't add much torsional stiffness.

It'd be great if I was wrong and a simple 4-point bar (or whatever mod you've done) makes a big difference.

[edram454]

I have had 3 c4 corvettes. My zr1 has a roll bar. no flex what so ever. have a camber bar in the front and a welded in roll bar in the rear. stiff with top on and off. suspension setting always on stiffest setting and power key is always on full power. roll bar the permanent fix.

ed ramos #3028