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#1 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,816
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#2 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Pineville, LA
Posts: 584
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#3 |
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Saylorsburg, PA
Posts: 50
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Cool to hear there is an option to the delco jobs! I have done the 12 and 6 thing, and really dont have any play to speak of, which is why im thinking my vibration is a bad ujoint. But with my milage it would be the right thing to do everything while im in there. Who would be your favorite source for the timken set? Will I need to talk to my buddy with the 20 ton press?( Just did hubs on my tr6, and the left hub sat on the press with full power for nearly two days before it finally let go!) Thanks for the help!
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#4 | |
![]() ![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 9,117
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Try Autozone or Oreily's
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#5 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 9,686
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#6 |
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Saylorsburg, PA
Posts: 50
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Thanks for the help gang........i think im gonna do the ujoints and both rear hubs just to be safe. Looks like my obx cat back is on the back burner for now
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#7 |
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: I live at Devens, one run at a time
Posts: 454
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No press needed unless you have to switch aftermarket studs over. You do need a stout torque wrench (164 ft/lb IIRC) and it's a big honking Torx on the inside. You can do it without dropping the arms but it's a little close - think long extensions and wobble. Sounds like you'll be dropping it all anyway though.
Watch out for the thin flat washer deal when you break the hub nut, pay attention to which way it's in there - it's slightly dished. HTH, - Jeff |
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