Changing the spark plugs.....

[lfalzarano]

I would check all hoses outside the plenum first, before pulling it. There is this one hose that comes out and over towards the radiator reservoir on the passenger side in the nose. It has a connection that passes over the top of the AC hoses. It comes loose if you were working in that area.

[secondchance]

1- Got into it in 1st gear getting the r's close to 5k, and it felt like the accelerator pedal kicked back towards my foot. Shifted into 2nd & 3rd, brought the r's up again, was fine. Tried it again after a mile or so, did not do it that time. All future heavy throttle in 1st gear did not duplicate the kickback. Thought that was kind of unusual....
Are you sure this is not ASR activating?

2- I noticed that when the plenum pull was done, and the vacuum issues were addressed, when first turning the key to the on position to hear the vacuum pump, it only came on for about 2-3 seconds. Today when first started, it stayed on for 3-5 seconds. All repeat "hot" starts just turning the key to the on position did not activate the pump at all.
This type of variation is not unusual. I wouldn't worry about this.

3- Reason #2 has me concerned is that the idle is still not quite right. And at one time today, it did go as high as 1200 r's when I came to a stop. Sometimes it will idle at 650-700 r's when stopped, other times it will be at 900-1000 r's when stopped.
We'll investigate when we have our WAZOO meet.

[Roadster]

"Are you sure this is not ASR activating?"

It very well could have been the ASR activating....didnt even give it a thought, as there was some salt dust still on the road...

"This type of variation is not unusual. I wouldn't worry about this."

Yea, that's me always thinking of something...


"We'll investigate when we have our WAZOO meet."

Sounds good to me....

Sent from my SM-G935P using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Originally Posted by Roadster

Ok, could not contain myself any longer.....so the roads are halfway decent and I went for a ride with my new sparkplugs....I like them a lot.
Even though the cold temps @ 33* helps with power, I have to say these new plugs are extremely responsive. Pulls effortlessly through all the gears, feeling like more added power even besides the secondaries now being fully operational.

Now for a few slight (have to figure out) items....
1- Got into it in 1st gear getting the r's close to 5k, and it felt like the accelerator pedal kicked back towards my foot. Shifted into 2nd & 3rd, brought the r's up again, was fine. Tried it again after a mile or so, did not do it that time. All future heavy throttle in 1st gear did not duplicate the kickback. Thought that was kind of unusual....

2- I noticed that when the plenum pull was done, and the vacuum issues were addressed, when first turning the key to the on position to hear the vacuum pump, it only came on for about 2-3 seconds. Today when first started, it stayed on for 3-5 seconds. All repeat "hot" starts just turning the key to the on position did not activate the pump at all.

3- Reason #2 has me concerned is that the idle is still not quite right. And at one time today, it did go as high as 1200 r's when I came to a stop. Sometimes it will idle at 650-700 r's when stopped, other times it will be at 900-1000 r's when stopped.
If I am stopped with trans in 1st gear, and idle is higher and I let the clutch out slightly with my foot on the brake, as soon as the clutch starts to engage, the idle will drop to normal and stay there even as I press down on the clutch pedal to disengage.
I know that there may be a couple of things to look for, as has been mentioned before, such as: the throttle blades completely closing, or a slight vacuum leak due to a vacuum hose coming loose under the plenum. Although the digital camera showed everything looking good from before....

Engine runs great, the best since I have owned the Z, once the idle issue gets resolved, it will be complete.....at least for me!!!

Tom,
That sure sounds exactly like the description of how the ASR feels when it decides to meddle in your fun in order to rescue you from wheel-spin.

My car used to routinely invoke the ASR as I passed through 5500 rpm, as the tires would begin to break loose.

To confirm you could replicate it with ASR off, but I do not really recommend that.

Perhaps your new secondaries, plugs, etc, are now providing you with a lot more power than before.

Try lighting them up during launch, and see if the pushback that you will feel on the accelerator is the same.

If so, it's a good thing!

You are making too much power for the tires!


Marty

[Roadster]

Originally Posted by DRM500RUBYZR-1

Tom,
That sure sounds exactly like the description of how the ASR feels when it decides to meddle in your fun in order to rescue you from wheel-spin.

My car used to routinely invoke the ASR as I passed through 5500 rpm, as the tires would begin to break loose.

To confirm you could replicate it with ASR off, but I do not really recommend that.

Perhaps your new secondaries, plugs, etc, are now providing you with a lot more power than before.

Try lighting them up during launch, and see if the pushback that you will feel on the accelerator is the same.

If so, it's a good thing!

You are making too much power for the tires!


Marty

You know Marty, Yun and you are right on about the ASR. Before when approaching the 7000+rpm shifts during WOT, I never felt the ASR engage.
Now since the secondaries are operational, I noticed the Z gets really loose at that 5500 rpm range , and even more so now with the new spark plugs. And of course already having Marc's chip in there with that extra 10 HP in addition to the parameters it enhances, my LT5 just runs sooooo good!!!
Yes, I agree I am making too much power for the tires....

[cloudshe]

Originally Posted by Roadster

also used some wobble extensions trying to find the best combo for #'s 6 & 8.


one of the tough ones....glad they are all out.....whew!!!

the final combo for #8...

you're right, those 41-963's don't look very good for that mileage. the original 41-407's were supposed to be good for 100,000 miles, i thought. i'm having a hard time sourcing a good stock plug right now, NAPA gave me a set of AC R44LTS6's they say match the '95 "double ovhd cam" model, but i can't find anywhere something that says they're acceptable plugs. btw, do you know how to get in contact with Jim Voter fm WAZOO?

[Roadster]

Originally Posted by cloudshe

you're right, those 41-963's don't look very good for that mileage. the original 41-407's were supposed to be good for 100,000 miles, i thought. i'm having a hard time sourcing a good stock plug right now, NAPA gave me a set of AC R44LTS6's they say match the '95 "double ovhd cam" model, but i can't find anywhere something that says they're acceptable plugs. btw, do you know how to get in contact with Jim Voter fm WAZOO?

The NGK's I have in there now, seem to be working quite well!!!
You can PM Jim....his screen name is....QB93Z, I will PM his cell # to you....

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by Roadster

Some of you may agree or may disagree....I wasn't about to throw my back out removing spark plugs....so when I felt that they were in there really tight, resorted to one of my leverage tools. This time only a half of a floor jack handle. No room for the whole thing....lol I wouldn't do this on anyone else's vehicle, but for me it broke most of the plugs loose. Only two I undid by hand. The others needed persuasion......

Spark plugs from Left to Right.....
#8 #6 #4 #2...

you can see oil at the top of the threads on 3 of the plugs...

Spark plugs from Left to Right.....
#7 #5 #3 #1...
oil at the top of all of the threads...

YIKES!

IIRC, plugs only require (something like) 19 ft# of torque. Stripping the aluminum threads immediately came to mind - even if they are "only siezed".

On installation, I dab the tip of a finger in some anti-sieze goop, and make a single swipe (perpendicular to) across the threads before reinstalling the plug.

In 55 years of changing plugs I've never had one back out, nor require more than a gentle push on the ratchet handle to break it loose. (And, once the initial torque is broken, the plug usually unscrew with twisting the extension with my fingers...usually.)

Obviously, those threads didn't strip out; no harm done. But, I know you'll like the anti-sieze when you remove them next rime.

[XfireZ51]

I started usng a dab of oil instead of anti-seize. W anti-seize I found that I needed to snug up the plugs fairly often.

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

I started usng a dab of oil instead of anti-seize. W anti-seize I found that I needed to snug up the plugs fairly often.

I just use that tiny amount - never a problem. But, if oil is working, carry on.

Speaking of "plugs" seizing, I always use either Teflon (plumber's) tape or anti-seize on the various drain plugs; e.g., oil pan drain/fill plugs. That really does the trick - far as seizing goes. I never had one leak either.