LT5 Assembly Project

[LGAFF]

Was wondering if anyone would be interested in me posting pics as I take apart and reassemble my LT5 Spare engine?

With that, I will pose my first question, before I tear into the shortblock, any other gaskets, etc that I should not mess with due to availability, etc? My intention is to pull the pan, and timing cover, etc. check things out to see if there are any surprises.

I will probably also need to replalce a liner, etc

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[Pete]

Lee, all the gaskets for the LT5 are available and seals.

Pete

[LGAFF]

Pete,

What am I looking at cost wise.....are these like the head bolts or a normal gasket kit?

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[A26B]

I started making gaskets a few months ago, primarily because of cost. After getting into the project, I found out improvement in materials, design & specifications was needed. I have all the gaskets & seals you need except for the front cover. I'm now working on that drawing for manufacturing within the next 30 days or so. My product & price list is on the parts for sale section.

You can email me at A26B@aol.com for a quote or order.

Jerry

[tccrab]

I would love to see pics of the entire process, especially the removing and replacing the heads and timing the camshafts.
Post 'em up!!
You can be sure that I will download and save every one of them for future reference.

TomC
"Crabs"

[jonszr1]

jerrys gaskets are first rate , having used some of them and his pricing very very fair

[Chris_32212]

Post that SHIZZ!!! i want to watch that project too :happy1:

[billybaloneey]

I'd like to see what you're planning to do.

[FU]

I admire your efforts :worship::worship:
Post em up :thumbsup:

[lbszr]

With that, I will pose my first question, before I tear into the shortblock, any other gaskets, etc that I should not mess with due to availability, etc?

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

Think the graphite seals on oil pump are available but not from gm and don't know of anybody making them?

[tomtom72]

raising my hand from the back of the class.......I'd be right along side TomC taking notes & downloading stuff!:mrgreen:

Thanks for taking the time to ask and do this for us!:worship:


:cheers:
Tom

[HIZNHRZ]

Unless I become independently wealthy in the very near future, my plans for going deep inside of an LT5 are to watch you do it. With that said, I'd really appreciate the opportunity to watch and learn.

[Chris_32212]

i shall make a peagan sacrifice to please the LT5 gods :worship: so you may have good fortune during the project. :sign10: good luck buddy :thumbsup:

Chris

[LGAFF]

I am watching the LT5 training video right now, wondering WTF was I thinking.

This should be fun, I am going to start with some pics tomorrow of what I have and some of the issues I am facing with regard to repairs, etc.

I picked up a set of ported LT5 heads, and the matching block. The block ingested a screw, so there is some damage to a few pistons, I think I will only need 1 liner and 1 piston. The heads are another story, they have 1 crossed threaded IH bolt, and they are ported alittle too much where the IH meets the head, so there is some welding warranted to make sure the IH seals properly.



LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[WB9MCW]

Soundz like a nice winter project. Maybe if you invite us we might swing by for a garage visit and some bench racing too boot. ???

[phrogs]

I still have to pull up the BS flag on the head bolts...

Who else here has worked on a LT5 and replaced the head bolts?

just curious :blahblah:

[Jeffvette]

I still have to pull up the BS flag on the head bolts...

Who else here has worked on a LT5 and replaced the head bolts?

just curious :blahblah:


Re used the bolts in my 368 build. For the 402 it will either be studs or new bolts.

[Pete]

I can't remember how many times my head bolts have been reused.:)
Also know a few other LT5's reusing head bolts more then once,they all run strong with no issues.

I will take all those junk used head bolts you guys have.heheheheheh
I will also call BS on this.
Pete

[lbszr]

Reused mine two years ago with no problems.

I can't find anywhere in the gm fmm where it says to replace them as it does for main and rod bolts.

If I remember right they didn't have any taper in the middle section so they didn't look like torque to yield bolts to me.

[LGAFF]

OK here is the skinny on the block/heads.

Engine is out of 90 #702. I bought the heads, they were ported with a valve job. The short block has about 40K miles on, although it seems like it has more). Notice the port is siamesed, and althought the 2ndry port is over 36mm the primary port needs to be opened some. Also notice that the porting left little sealing surface area where the IH bolts on.

[LGAFF]

The Pistons have damage from a screw...apparently the culprit was never found, but he either had partners or possibly bounced around from cylinder to cylinder:



There is however no damage to liners.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[LGAFF]

The only known other issue is the cross threaded bolt for the IH:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0010.jpg

LGAFF
91 ZR1
#234

[LGAFF]

Step one in inspecting the block, etc was the removal of the balancer.

In order to hold the crank still, I placed a large head screwdriver in the crank position sensor hole, the crank has several notches in it, used for holding the crank still during cam timing. There is actually a tool that is inserted here that snaps into the notch and holds the crank still, but more to come on that. After locking the crank I removed the crank/balancer bolt.

Crank position sensor hole:
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0006.jpg

Then removed the balancer:
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0011.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0013.jpg

LGAFF

[Zr1 Destroyer]

I still have to pull up the BS flag on the head bolts...

Who else here has worked on a LT5 and replaced the head bolts?

just curious :blahblah:I re-used my bolts from my 368 for the 415 build and all is fine.......just turned them a few extra degrees with the wheel on the end of the torque wrench. I also re-used my head bolts on my old Z when I did the ported lpe heads from nj.

[-=Jeff=-]

Yeah but LGAFF has NO Head Bolts.. that is the issue

[Zr1 Destroyer]

Step one in inspecting the block, etc was the removal of the balancer.

In order to hold the crank still, I placed a large head screwdriver in the crank position sensor hole, the crank has several notches in it, used for holding the crank still during cam timing. There is actuall a tool that is inserted here in that snaps into the notch and holds the crank still, but more to come on that. After locking the crank I removed the crank/balancer bolt.

Crank position sensor hole:
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0006.jpg
Yeah....you'll for sure want the crank pin tool....things will get ugly real fast if a guy guess's on that one.

[Zr1 Destroyer]

Yeah but LGAFF has NO Head Bolts.. that is the issueHmmm...nj has a surplus on these.....I'll ask him if he wants to get rid of some. He also has five extra sets of cams also he wants to punt.

[LGAFF]

It seems to me the tool is only needed to locate the proper hole, which I believe they state is at about 51 degress BTDC. The hole for cam timing is deeper that the others, and the pin tool drops flush in the proper notich. I would think that one could use a measured dowel to accomplish the same running a few rotations to ensure that you chose the correct notch.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[Zr1 Destroyer]

It seems to me the tool is only needed to locate the proper hole, which I believe they state is at about 51 degress BTDC. The hole for cam timing is deeper that the others, and the pin tool drops flush in the proper notich. I would think that one could use a measured dowel to accomplish the same running a few rotations to ensure that you chose the correct notch.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234You could for sure do that, but the pin lock tool was in hand at the time of my build and made life easy for a moment during my last build.

[Jeffvette]

In order to hold the crank still, I placed a large head screwdriver in the crank position sensor hole, the crank has several notches in it, used for holding the crank still during cam timing. There is actually a tool that is inserted here that snaps into the notch and holds the crank still, but more to come on that. After locking the crank I removed the crank/balancer bolt.



So you are forcing roughly 160+ ftlbs of pressure on the crank reluctor wheel?

[LGAFF]

No I was able to loosendthe bolt with a standard socket set and gripping the balancer with one hand. used the screwdrier to lock the crank, came loose fairly easily.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[Jeffvette]

No I was able to loosend the bolt with a standard socket set and gripping the balancer with one hand. used the screwdrier to lock the crank, came loose fairly easily.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

You need to be careful of the reluctor wheel.

[LGAFF]

Jeffvette,

Out of the car, what is the best method for the center bolt. Pipe wrench(strap)?

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[Jeffvette]

Put two flywheel bolts in and a pipe in between them. When rotated it will lodge itself against the engine stand.

[LGAFF]

Removed the water pump, appears to be alittle rust on the back of the impeller, will post pics later. I also made sure to tape down the bolts in order to keep them in order on the water pump.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0032.jpg


Removed the timing cover bolts, I assume that the seal needs to be removed prior to pulling the cover off. I will tackle that piece tomorrow.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0033.jpg
LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[A26B]

Seal remains in place in the front cover when it's removed. Word of caution, be careful with the large metal "washer" on the crank. The face is a precision lapped flat surface for sealing against the carbon/graphite oil pump seal. If it is dinged or scratched, the oil pump seal will leak.

[LGAFF]

Whats the best process for removal, cover seems very tight.


LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[flyin ryan]

Put two flywheel bolts in and a pipe in between them. When rotated it will lodge itself against the engine stand.or use a long Grade 8 bolt & let it hit the back-brace of your stand. either way will get it done.

[LGAFF]

Thanks Ryan, but looking for timing cover removal.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[Jeffvette]

Whats the best process for removal, cover seems very tight.


LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234


You have "all" the bolts removed. And nuts? :mrgreen:

[LGAFF]

Are you refering to these: Two 14mm nuts on back of cover in plenum area.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0034.jpg


Timing cover is off, here are the internals:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0036.jpg


Thanks Jeff......got a feeling I will be saying that all the time over the next few months.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[Polo-1]

looks cleaner then my "just bolt your heads on and go 368".

[Jeffvette]

looks cleaner then my "just bolt your heads on and go 368".


That was a pile :hello:

[Polo-1]

That was a pile :hello:

I got a good buy on it:rolleyes:

[LGAFF]

Pulled the pan, no surprises. I was looking for the screw, did not find it. But I did find a small piece of aluminum from the head......at some point, someone put the wrong accessory bolt in the wrong hole and pushed a small piece of the head into the engine:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/027.jpg

Here is the baffle, looks like it is a shop class reject:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/024.jpg

Pan was not bad, alittle sludge:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/025.jpg

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[flyin ryan]

needs a crank scraper. free power/better oil control.

[LGAFF]

Ok, Just looking for opinions....

I have the head bolts coming. Any thoughts on the pistons and liners with regard to the screw damage? Would you replace? From what I see there is only a minor hair thin scratch in one of the liners that can barely be felt.

Who is the best source for pistons/liners?

In terms of bearings, would you look to replace...if so suppliers and $$

LGAFF
92ZR1
#234

[flyin ryan]

Ok, Just looking for opinions....

Any thoughts on the pistons and liners with regard to the screw damage? Would you replace? From what I see there is only a minor hair thin scratch in one of the liners that can barely be felt.



LGAFF
92ZR1
#234where is the scratch, thrust side or not? perpendicular with the pin?

[Jeffvette]

If it gets caught with a fingernail, it needs to be honed or replaced. And i would definitely replace the damaged pistons.

Rippie I believe has some factory liners and pistons.

I've got bearings.

[LGAFF]

Here is the sleeve in question and piston, odd that there is little damage on this one in comparison to some of the others.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0042.jpg

The scratch does not "catch" but can be felt.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0041.jpg

Also someone noted that with the number of pins in the balancer they thought I would have a mix of "A" and "B" pistons, I checked and all of the pistons are "A"s. Also was wonderng wouldn't honing remove the coating?

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[flyin ryan]

LH (Dr.) or RH (Pass.) bank?

[LGAFF]

D/S bank.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[Polo-1]

Nikasil liners....... if it's scratched,chipped it's a gone. You could have it re-nikasiled. Or I have 16 pistons, rings & liners with the rods. 1 set under 10k, 2nd set has 65k on them. Rod bearings are standard SBC.

[flyin ryan]

D/S bank.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234o.k., well that's the better side to be on if it has to be, D/S outside. are you able to have it touch honed? maybe 320 or even 400 grit. don't get carried away, just a light rub.

[Zr1 Destroyer]

Ok, Just looking for opinions....

I have the head bolts coming. Any thoughts on the pistons and liners with regard to the screw damage? Would you replace? From what I see there is only a minor hair thin scratch in one of the liners that can barely be felt.

Who is the best source for pistons/liners?

In terms of bearings, would you look to replace...if so suppliers and $$

LGAFF
92ZR1
#234If your main bearings aren't in too bad of shape just send them out to get re_coated.......calico will redo them for you.;)

I was just looking at the pic of your pan and it reminded me of mine.....after I unbolted the sump I found my dipstick tube seal wedged in the side of the screen......it made me laugh.:dancing:rolleyes:

[LGAFF]

One of the questions I had was about #s matching engines. I have been told that there were no #s matching before, but this is not correct. I did find that the top part of the block is stamped with the prodution # in this case 5800702, or #702. I also noted that the various pieces have different production dates, the top half of the block was manufactured on 10-3-89, the lower half 10-20-89....the oil pan 8-21-89. So it appears as long as the top half of the block is correct you have a #s matching car.

I have heard from a few forum members that any type of #s matching program may have ceased in 1991.

Thought people would find this interesting, by the way, even the valves have date stamps on them.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[LT-5 Music]

Newbie here to LT-5 tech and I am really enjoying this thread.

[LGAFF]

Step 1: Remove the timing chains....

Loosen Tensioner:
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0064.jpg

and then unbolt the primary chain gear:
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0057.jpg

Any tricks or concerns on the tensioners? The secondary/cam chain tensioners were removed prior to shipping the motor.

[LGAFF]

After the chains, will need to remove the main main bearing caps. From what I can see in order to remove the main bearing caps, the lower half of the block or the girdle will need to be removed.

Pic shows were block is in two pieces:
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0058.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0006.jpg

The girdle is made of aluminum, and it looks like the steel main caps sit under the girdle in a dovetail fashion:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0068.jpg

[LGAFF]

The girdle is held on by a series of 10mm bolts internally seen here:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0059.jpg

and I believe there are 8 external, as seen here:


http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0062.jpg

Almost forgot, oil pump might also have to come off.....open for feedback to those that have done this before.

Thanks

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[lbszr]

Well I bought new head bolts from Jerry and received them today, perfect timing as the wife was out of the house when they arrived...thanks Jerry.

I cleaned some grime off the block, and then examined the pistons I truly think there are 2 that will need to go. But I am going to pull them and look at the sides to see how bad the damage is....maybe sand them alittle and see what happens.

I assume the next steps to access the crank bearings and pistons would be as follows:

Step 1: Remove the timing chains....

loosen tensioner:
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0064.jpg

and then unbolt the primary chain gear:
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0057.jpg

Any tricks or concerns on the tensioners? The secodary/cam chain tensioners were removed prior to shipping the motor.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234


Make note of the oil hole on the idler gear for reinstallation. The almost last thing after timing I put on was the timing cover to build up oil pressure to watch and verify oil flow to idler gear and watch tensioners to work right without binding since I had never reset one before until then or I probably couldn't of slept.

Do you have the reset procedures for the tensioners? Marc Haibeck has some on his site and I've got some more that was posted a while back. Unless your getting new ones for 500 or so.

[lbszr]

The girdle is held on by a series of 10mm bolts internally seen here:

Almost forgot, oil pump might also have to come off.....open for feedback to those that have done this before.

Thanks

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234


Watch how the primary chain gear comes off the crank cause it's not murphy proof. 90 fmm shows it one way and the supplement fmm shows it the other way but I forget which one is right.

Oil pump will have to come off it your splitting the block. It's not fun to realign unless maybe you have the tool.

Not sure if it would help on tear down but hanging the engine upside down will make it easier to reinstall the chains so they don't bunch up.

[Jeffvette]

Watch how the primary chain gear comes off the crank cause it's not murphy proof. 90 fmm shows it one way and the supplement fmm shows it the other way but I forget which one is right.

Oil pump will have to come off it your splitting the block. It's not fun to realign unless maybe you have the tool.

Not sure if it would help on tear down but hanging the engine upside down will make it easier to reinstall the chains so they don't bunch up.

Is your regular manual a prelim manual (white copy). Red copy page 6A2-49 and page 6A2B-24 show the same diagram in removing the crank sprocket.

[Jeffvette]

Do you have the reset procedures for the tensioners? Marc Haibeck has some on his site and I've got some more that was posted a while back. Unless your getting new ones for 500 or so.

It's pretty much fool proof. You pull it apart, clean and compress and move the clip with a pick to retain.

[flyin ryan]

sounds like to me your doing good. one step at a time. keep it up:hello:. BTW, you have a way to measure piston to wall clearance, plus to see if you have any skirts collapsing, (the pistons your worried about)?

[A26B]

+Before removing the lower crankcase (girdle) you will need to remove the cam chains, oil pump, rods/pistons. The cast iron you see is cast into the aluminum, lower crankcase.

Glad the bolts arrived "timely".

[LGAFF]

Whats the story on replacement rings? What about Rod bolts, etc?


LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[flyin ryan]

Whats the story on replacement rings? What about Rod bolts, etc?


LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234rings are no problem. rod bolts...you want to change or you think you need to change?

[LGAFF]

I thought rod bolts tended to stretch?

Who has the rings??

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[flyin ryan]

I thought rod bolts tended to stretch?

Who has the rings??

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234Total Seal in AZ. can do anything...FAST. let me know if you need a contact? they turn around rings for me in two-three days...crazy. don't get carried away though ...make sure your pistons are o.k. first

[LGAFF]

To give everyone some perspective of the piston damage, I pulled one of the worst, this is #8.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0075.jpg

Took pretty good pounding:
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0074.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0081.jpg

Opinions, I think it might be toast!

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[LGAFF]

Here is the liner, a small nick at the top:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0086.jpg


Rod bearing Surface:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0071.jpg

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[Polo-1]

Marc has ARP replacement rod bolts

http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/products/connecting%20rod%20bolts.htm

[flyin ryan]

ya...not looking great, is it:(

[A26B]

Stock rods & bolts are very strong & can handle the amount of horsepower you are anticipating. The only downside of stock rods is that they are heavy.

Your pistons don't look so good & I would recommend replacement of the scored cylinder. Used cylinders are frequently available. You might call Aaron Scott (SGC) Marc Haibeck or Corey Henderson. Considering the number of engines they have been through with replaced rods/pistons left over, I would expect them to have a stock cylinder laying around.

Ryan is the ultimate reference source for aftermarket parts, so he would know but it used to be that rings for stock pistons were crazy expensive and only available through GM. It wasn't the bore size, but rather a combination of dimensions. The "old" rule of thumb was that you coud buy repalcement cylinders, pistons & off the shelf rings for what stock rings would cost.

Last May at BG, a complete, new, OEM set of cylinders/pistons & rings went "no-sale" at the auction with a $500 min reserve. The reason is, virtually no one want's to incure the expense of a rebuild & not add a few more cubes.

My view of rebuilding an LT5 is that it is an expensive engine to rebuild compared to a typical mass produced engine. I would hate to see you use those pistons & the scratched cylinder and risk the outcome being unsatisfactory.

[Polo-1]

looks like you could use these

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y292/kpie/91%20ZR1%20Parts/28467201.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y292/kpie/91%20ZR1%20Parts/5e6e1fe1.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y292/kpie/91%20ZR1%20Parts/05043536.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y292/kpie/91%20ZR1%20Parts/18b853b3.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y292/kpie/91%20ZR1%20Parts/a503cf56.jpg

These had not been decarboned yet, just washed off. just over 10k miles on them.

[lbszr]

Is your regular manual a prelim manual (white copy). Red copy page 6A2-49 and page 6A2B-24 show the same diagram in removing the crank sprocket.

It's the red copy.

Actually the part of watch which side the wide shoulder of the primary gear is on when he removes it would make assembly easier since my 90 fmm says short shoulder should face forward page 6a2-48 fig.56 and the 90-93 supplement says wide shoulder must face forward page 6a2b-45 fig.60.

I used a straight edge to figure out alignment to idler gear since I didn't pay attention when I pulled it apart.

[lbszr]

Marc has ARP replacement rod bolts

http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/products/connecting%20rod%20bolts.htm



:thumbsup:

[LGAFF]

Here is Piston #3

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0124.jpg

As you can see, when the edge gets hit, it is actually melting/deforming the edge of the piston:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0115.jpg

I have one more piston with a few strikes towards the edge, I will pull and check.

I also had some discussion as to whether I should pull the crank, feedback is that if I do I would have to get into checking bore, and crank diameter, etc. Might be more than I want to take on, although would be interesting to learn.

Very possible, I might be pulling and replacing the three pistons and then moving into the heads, etc.

Let me know if this is getting too boring!

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[Polo-1]

I also had some discussion as to whether I should pull the crank, feedback is that if I do I would have to get into checking bore, and crank diameter, etc.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234[/QUOTE]

How are you going to pull the liners out, without removing the crank? I know they come out the top, but they are glued in place and use a tool (plate) from under side of the liner.
Also, how are you going to clean and check clearance on your parts.
I'm just saying I would hate to see you go this far, and not clean and check every part out. You"ll sleep much better at night knowing it's right.

If you need a copy of the FSM let me know.

[LGAFF]

I am not sure the liners are coming out. They are not in bad shape, I have someone that might come by and check the liner(to see if I am wrong in my assessment), but possibly might be just replacing pistons only.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[A26B]

I'm just saying I would hate to see you go this far, and not clean and check every part out. You"ll sleep much better at night knowing it's right.


FWIW, I agree completely. You are so deep into the engine now. I would always be concerned about the condition of the mains if I didn't see them & check the crank.

If you end up locating a set (or partial set) of stock pistons, I saw where White Racing is having a water damage sale and has a set of new OEM rings for $199.

[LGAFF]

I pulled two more pistons, amazed that anything near the edge of the piston, even a small demformaiton resulted in warping of the lip of the piston.

What is the best way to check the liner in terms of verifing it is in round? Wondering if the excess heat at ignition could distort the liner.

I will have to look at completing the entire job, I am trying to keep the cost under control. I am wondering what a set of rings, and bearings would cost? Big thing is I have a 390+rwhp motor and am in no hurry(my wife might disagree) so I really can wait and do it right.

We will see, I am doing some shopping.

Thanks everyone for your advice and support!

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[XfireZ51]

I pulled two more pistons, amazed that anything near the edge of the piston, even a small demformaiton resulted in warping of the lip of the piston.

What is the best way to check the liner in terms of verifing it is in round? Wondering if the excess heat at ignition could distort the liner.

I will have to look at completing the entire job, I am trying to keep the cost under control. I am wondering what a set of rings, and bearings would cost? Big thing is I have a 390+rwhp motor and am in no hurry(my wife might disagree) so I really can wait and do it right.

We will see, I am doing some shopping.

Thanks everyone for your advice and support!

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234


Lee,

I wonder if the money is better spent on porting heads, or using your ported heads on current short block, re-phasing cams and leave it at that.

[Jeffvette]

Lee,

I wonder if the money is better spent on porting heads, or using your ported heads on current short block, re-phasing cams and leave it at that.


Ding ding

[LGAFF]

Part of the reason for doing this is the educational piece. To me, there is something for doing it yourself that makes it yours. Anyone can go and buy speed.....and there is nothing wrong with that. Building something has its returns both in the satisfaction of doing it, and the long term return of knowledge.

I could have paid someone to port my intake, but now I know how and have done a few of them. I have already learned alot from Flyin Ryan, Pete, and Jeffvette. In the end, I will have a motor that will return some of my investment, porting the heads ultimately will completely depreciate out. Lets not forget with the parts I have sold, and then repurchased others at a better price I have a shortblock, heads, IH, plenum, and TB for about $1750. I also have about $2K worth of Dymags in the garage that could/will utlimately be parts money(purchased for $290). This is an interesting adventure for me, and I only need travel out to my garage a few minutes a day to experience it.

With a 21K mile Z alrady in the garage, this is the resto project that will keep me busy, and the pursuit of replacement pieces and learning is all part of the enjoyment

Thanks for the feedback, but I intend to press onward.:cheers:

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[Polo-1]

You might want to find a local motorcycle (2 stroke guy ) to look at your nikasil liners. Any chipping, scratches and Nikasil will start to flake off, as rings keep rubbing it.
Find a bore gauge to check if the liners are ture, or how far out they are.

[LGAFF]

Thanks, I will look into it. I did note that one of the sleeves #8 has some very small pits in it(pin head). Once I have a chance I will have it checked. Thanks for you help.

I also looked, it looks like the liner can be removed simply by removing the pistons.


LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[LGAFF]

Mahle is telling me crank bearings are MS 909P rods are CB663P....can anyone confirm, these appear to be standard SBC.


LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[flyin ryan]

You might want to find a local motorcycle (2 stroke guy ) to look at your nikasil liners. that's how got my experiance. around 87-88 i was racing for the factory team & Nikasil was newer technology for those guys at that time, Honda had a bunch of Japanese engineers running around with magnifying glasses & profilometers checking the cylinders out steady until they gained confidence in it. i remember at the time what they really wanted to do, more for road racing, was to develop & perfect, oval pistons. they thought Nikasil was going to put them over the top to perfect it. they were having problems getting any kind of cross-hatch in the straight portion of the bore & when you think about how a CK-10 works you can understand it being a problem. honing the corners was the easy part. last i was led to believe they could never get it to come around & shelved the program. maybe they've had oval pistons for ten years...i don't know:dontknow:, not my game any more but that's what was going on back then. BTW, imagine the cubes a person could get out of an LT-5 with oval pistons...i should figure that out:icon_scra

[flyin ryan]

Mahle is telling me crank bearings are MS 909P rods are CB663P....can anyone confirm, these appear to be standard SBC.


LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234yup, they are a pretty standard bearing. you can get the same bearing in a bunch of variations, narrowed, doweled, chamfered, x-tra clearance, less clearance, grooved, coated etc...

[LGAFF]

Here is a Piston rod bearing shot, this is the beat up #8 piston:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0138.jpg?t=1225248282


LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[LGAFF]

Backside of Bearing:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0130.jpg?t=1225248405

[LGAFF]

Any chance some of our engine builders can weigh in on the bearing condition?

The engine is said to have 40K miles.

Is this typical of what one would see, is the loss of coating were the bearing buts together concerning?

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[Polo-1]

the rod bearing you show looks ok, but whats the clearance?

[flyin ryan]

Any chance some of our engine builders can weigh in on the bearing condition?



LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234for the record, i PMed my opinion:eusa_shhh

[tomtom72]

Any chance some of our engine builders can weigh in on the bearing condition?

The engine is said to have 40K miles.

Is this typical of what one would see, is the loss of coating were the bearing buts together concerning?

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

:happy1: the peanut gallery, me:o, would love to hear the concensus.

Mr. LGAFF, I would like to say thank you for taking the time and effort to do this thread. You Da Man!:thumbsup:

:cheers:
Tom

[lbszr]

Mahle is telling me crank bearings are MS 909P rods are CB663P....can anyone confirm, these appear to be standard SBC.


LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234


Think I saw Kurt had a sale for mains of around 300 if you need them, only supplier I've heard of for stock or there may be some from Ford or Mopar that can be made to fit.

[LGAFF]

As an FYI, Mahle sent me a follow and advised those part numbers will not work with the LT5.

Jeffvette clarified to me that rod bearings are the same as SBC, but crank bearings are only available through White Racing, and I believe JEffvette might have a few.

Thanks

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[lbszr]

I used clevite 77 CB-663p for rods. It took extra to get them fitted though cause two rod sets out of the first eight were two tight below limits. They may of worked but out of limits is out of limits even though it wasn't much.

[LGAFF]

Just talked with Sealed power if I order $1M in main bearings they will make one for me.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

Thats only $151 per ZR1 owner....WHO'S WITH ME?

[XfireZ51]

Just talked with Sealed power if I order $1M in main bearings they will make one for me.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

Thats only $151 per ZR1 owner....WHO'S WITH ME?

Lee,

How about starting a GB?

:sign10:

[LGAFF]

Just had a very interesting conversation with an Indy car engine builder who seems to know alot about our engine, and a few people who made the parts!

I need parts #s for bearings if anyone has them.

Thanks

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[BlackWidow#2]

I have been following this with much interest. Since I am soaking up all your info, I thought maybe I could give back some, so I looking up main bearing numbers for you.
Numbers 1, 2, 4 are 10067441 #3 is 10067442 #5 is 10106101
Original manufacturer was Vandervell
My source for this info is the LT5 Engine Parts List
I hope this helps and keep up the good work.
George Crouse

[Pete]

Lee, i hope you find something.
Also screww seal power there are overseas companies that work for pennies like China.

My guy is still working on the bearings overseas.
Between the two of us we should come up with something.

If more joined in the search for ZR-1 parts we would keep the KING going for years.

Pete

[Zr1 Destroyer]

The guy in this new video series talks about using chrysler bearings on the mains. I think he has done a few motors with these from what my trusty dentist has told me.

I think he talks about it in video two.

http://www.nelsonracingengines.com/video_university.html

[LGAFF]

Says they use Hemi bearings....new Hemi Old Hemi???


LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[jonszr1]

he has built 3 of our motors and is an awsome engine builder . i would call him direct to find out for sure . he is a very honest guy who has done work for me before . also is pretty resonable price wise

[limey]

I have been following this with much interest. Since I am soaking up all your info, I thought maybe I could give back some, so I looking up main bearing numbers for you.
Numbers 1, 2, 4 are 10067441 #3 is 10067442 #5 is 10106101
Original manufacturer was Vandervell
My source for this info is the LT5 Engine Parts List
I hope this helps and keep up the good work.
George Crouse

George those are the tooling #'s and not the GM #'s. The bearings were made by Vandervell in Scotland, the plant that made them no longer has the tooling. 2 years ago i spoke to the plant manager @ Vandervell & they told me the last time Gm made any LT5 main bearings was in 1995 & after that, the tooling was disposed of.

When we had the bearings made, i had to make a minimum run, the cost for this run was $57,000.00.

Should any of you locate a source to make the bearings, make some oversize, i wish we made some too, but at the time we decided that $57k for some LT5 bearings was enough, they wanted an extra $12,500.00 to make a minimum order .0010 th oversize, if you wanted .0015 th, then another $12,5k and so on.
If this forum and group of guys wish to start manufacturing and sourcing parts, this is a list of items i would suggest you also look into, not only would you sell them, but you would be able to recoup the tooling costs for the limited production.

There is a great need for the following:



Thermostat housing assemblies
Coolant crossover pipes
Cooling hose kits
Power key switches
Power key switch bezels 90-95 models are all in great need
Timing chain tensioners
Clutch slave cylinder & hose 1990 Model
A/C Evaporator case, both upper & lower
Injector driver modules
LT5 Stamped plug wires (The sales on these alone could pay for the entire tooling of the above items)

Feel free to add to the list of needed parts.

[LGAFF]

Well, here is my gameplan going forward. I am going to clean up alot of the parts tomorrow, and put them in storage bags. If I am to properly clean up the block, I need to remove the crank.

So once I make sure everything is well labled and put away, and I have some more room, the girdle will come off. Check the bearings, and decide what I am going to do about the crank bearings.

I think everyone would probably want to see this, along with the install.

Let me know your thoughts. Are there things people would want to see better pictures of??? Also let me know it there is anything else that I am going to screw up or cost me out the A$$.

I think when I am done, I am going to put this into a summary of some kind to weed out alot of the mistakes, etc.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[Zr1 Destroyer]

LT5 Stamped plug wires (The sales on these alone could pay for the entire tooling of the above items)[/quote]Lol.....that's no joke there!

[flyin ryan]

Well, here is my gameplan going forward. I am going to clean up alot of the parts tomorrow, and put them in storage bags. If I am to properly clean up the block, I need to remove the crank.

So once I make sure everything is well labled and put away, and I have some more room, the girdle will come off. Check the bearings, and decide what I am going to do about the crank bearings.

I think everyone would probably want to see this, along with the install.

Let me know your thoughts. Are there things people would want to see better pictures of??? Also let me know it there is anything else that I am going to screw up or cost me out the A$$.

I think when I am done, I am going to put this into a summary of some kind to weed out alot of the mistakes, etc.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234 i asked you this already, via PM, but don't you think gave me response...have you been able to check the thrust clearance? do it before it comes apart. might have to be a little aggressive if your rear main seal is still installed.

[LGAFF]

I will check it once I get everything organized and cleaned up.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[flyin ryan]

I will check it once I get everything organized and cleaned up.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234o.k....if you want me to walk you through it again, let me know:hello:

[A26B]

Personally, I would like to see good pictures of all the bearings, rods & mains, numbered to the respective cylinders & journals. I have a personal interest in oiling on the 375 hp engines.

[LGAFF]

Here is what I did, used a wrench for a BMW made of flat steel. Gently pryed against the crank, then used a feeler guage to measure the end play. The difference was .006, measured several times from both ends.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

Yes I know I should use a dial indicator.

[flyin ryan]

Here is what I did, used a wrench for a BMW made of flat steel. Gently pryed against the crank, then used a feeler guage to measure the end play. The difference was .006, measured several times from both ends.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

Yes I know I should use a dial indicator.if that's what it is that's killer...forget about the fact it has some miles on it...i'd take .006" on a freash set of bearings/build everytime:)

[LGAFF]

Has anyone checked the bearing sizes for the Lotus V8s, seems odd that they would not use some sizings that were already available to them.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[tomtom72]

Has anyone checked the bearing sizes for the Lotus V8s, seems odd that they would not use some sizings that were already available to them.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

I need the "I agree" thing. I hate using the one we have.....it's kind of insulting IMHO....:o

Why would Lotus not use "on hand" stuff if it would work? I mean the V8 in the Land Rover was the BFO after they told the guys at chevy that a 4 cam head conversion would not be cost effective at all.

Okay, okay, I should not talk as I don't know all that much about our motors. But it just seems like the path of least cost/resistance.....KISS school of thought & all...No??
Okay, I just read the post from Kurt.....I guess that kind of says why we can't get replacement bearings easily.....by extension it is obvious that Lotus didn't use any on hand stuff? I should not read the last page in a thread first!

[LGAFF]

I will check on the Lotus possibilty later, in addition to the hemi option. I did do some measuring this morning with a digitial caliper:

Most pistons measured 3.87(2-3) and liners were at 3.89(1-2). Even the damaged pistons were within specs,

The rod bolts generally measured 54.38-54.5MM.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

I will be picking up a dial guage in the next few days and will take some pics on proper way(or at least the rank amateur way) to check endplay in the crank.

[LGAFF]

All the piston are out:

Piston 1 bearings:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0192.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0193.jpg

[LGAFF]

Piston 2 Bearings:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0191.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0190.jpg

[LGAFF]

Piston 3

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0194.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0195.jpg

[LGAFF]

Piston 4

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0196.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0197.jpg

[LGAFF]

Piston 5

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0199.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0200.jpg

[LGAFF]

Piston 6

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0202.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0204.jpg

[LGAFF]

piston 7

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0205.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0206.jpg

[LGAFF]

piston 8
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0207.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0208.jpg

[LGAFF]

Also took the timing chain, upper gear off....

before:
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0036.jpg

Removal is striaght forward. Loosen the 2 small 8mm bolts on the tensioner to the lower left(main timing chain), loosen the three upper gear bolts, alittle maniplation and its off. Note for reassembly the three bolts are not symetrical, one is offset.
Also not in the top picture that the gear is offset to the passneger side, and the chains are not the same length to compensate.

After:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0187.jpg

Upper Gear:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0186.jpg

[LGAFF]

Here is a pic of the tensioner arms, on the top is a plasitic rub strip. Two of these are damaged(rub strip)....


http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0188.jpg

I believe DRM has these for $30 per

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[flyin ryan]

time to change out the rod bearings...by the looks of it...

[tomtom72]

time to change out the rod bearings...by the looks of it...

LGAFF I apologize for asking this and interrupting the flow in this thread.....:o

but the condition of the rod bearings is a result of whatever the motor ingested that caused the damage to the piston tops? Was the object one of the screws from the 2* butterfly plates? Or is the condition of those bearings considered "normal wear" for the milage & use that the motor had over it's life? Jez those rod bearings don't look too great to me, scratches were from the remains of the screw(?); but the wear looks to be very uneven to my inexperienced eyes......:jawdrop:

Thanks.

:cheers:
Tom

[LGAFF]

I do not think it was the screw, based upon the condition of the sides of the piston, I do not think that the original owner liked to change his oil. To me it is just normal wear, no big gouges that I can see, etc.

But I will defer to more experienced opinions for that assessment.

The screw size is too big for the 2ndry, look more like the Air Horn screw.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[LGAFF]

I also looked into thebearing size for the Lotus 3.4 V8, and the bearing is 64MM to our 70MM so not an option. I will look into the Chrysler bearing and update.

I did look up the old Hemi and they are 2.751 to our 2.76.


LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[A26B]

Lee,

Thanks for posting the rod bearing pictures. Here's my unsolicited analysis and comes complete with no guarantee. :-)

The scratches in the bearings are from particulate in the oil, probably when the engine was new. They are virtually the same as the LT5's I've torn down, not severe.

The load side of 1~6 has some blue color, indicating excessive heat on the load side. The wear pattern is normal. 7 & 8 don't show the same discoloration or wear. Can be caused by cold start & high rpm operation before reaching operating temps or oil dilution.

The "speckling" best shown in the rod cap bearing of #3 & #7 are, in my opinion, due to corrosion caused by water/coolant in the oil. The engine looks to have been idle for an extended period as the crankshaft oiling hole is clearly visible on #2 & #7 and to a lesser extent on #8. The corrosion could be due to the settlement of coolant/water onto the unloaded side of the bearing during the period(s) of time the engine was not operated for an extended period.

The odd bearing in the lot is the rod cap on #8. The edges of the bearing are damaged. I haven't got a clue on this except that it does occur on the unloaded side of the bearing, like the indicated corrosion on some of the other bearings. There is also a depression mark in the center of the bearing which is perpendicular to the rotation that would not have happened during engine operation.

Summary: doesn't look like a high mileage engine, but does look like one that has given it's owner a good time.

How's the crank?

Looking forward to seeing the main bearings........

[LGAFF]

Puling the oil pump and timing gear:

Used a 2 ton 3 jaw puller, and used the crank plug from the balancer pulled to protect the crank, came off smoothly and no issues. As you can see therre is a washer behind it that slides right off, woodruff key locks it in(gear).

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0213.jpg

[LGAFF]

Removed the oil pump, strighhforward, three 10mm bolts and it slides off:


Front
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0211.jpg

back

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0212.jpg

[LGAFF]

Ok, for the record had this been a stand alone thread I would have used the title "Pulled my crank today: Pics inside!" but anyway here is the deal after unbolting about 25 perimeter bolts here is the girdle:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0219.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0232.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0230.jpg

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[LGAFF]

Girdle bearing 1(front)

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0221.jpg

bearing 2:
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0222.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0249.jpg

[LGAFF]

Bearing 3/Thrust bearing:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0223.jpg

Side shot:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0224.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0250.jpg

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[LGAFF]

Bearing 4

Girdle
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0227.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0238.jpg


block
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0245.jpg

[LGAFF]

Bearing 5:

Girdle
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0228.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0239.jpg


Block:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0244.jpg
LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[LGAFF]

I will probably pull the crank late tonight, of course I did not remove the rear main seal prior to puttingit on the stand, so I need to get in there with a torx bit and loosen them.....no clearance:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0231.jpg

Once I get the crank out I will go back and at upper bearing photos to these exisiting pics and just put a note in the thread.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[A26B]

Lee,
That "washer" that was behind the crank gear is the seal face for the oil pump seal. That's the one you should be very careful with to insure it doesn't get dinged or scratched. Do not try to clean or polish the seal surface as it is a precision lap finish that must be perfectly flat & square to the crank. In the picture, the sealing surface is laying face down. Wrap it up in a cloth & bag it until you go back together.
Jerry

[LGAFF]

Once the neighborhood kids were done playing hockey with it I bagged it up.

Thanks Jerry!

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[LGAFF]

I have added block bearing shots, also here is a shot of the reluctor wheel(bottom pic). This plays a role in factory cam timing. In setting the factory cam timing, retaining pins are used to hold the cams in an upright position.

A spring loaded locking pin mechanism is then inserted into the crank sensor hole, and bolted down(pictured below). As the crank is rotated, the spring loaded pin snaps into the openings in the reluctor wheel. The crank needs to be locked in place in the longest slot in the reluctor wheel(see bottom pic/slot on the right)

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0006.jpg

When the pin slips into one of the shallow notices(see below) the top of the pin sticks out above the crank sensor surface. When it slides into the deepest notch the pin will be nearly flush with the surface of the crank sensor tool surface. This is when you know the crank is in proper position. Balancer keyway is also at about 1 or 2 o'clock. With the cams in place the crank locked in the proper position, the initial timing is basicly set and it is rechecked by rotating the engine 720 degrees and rechecking alignment.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0233.jpg

If I have misstated anything, please correct me but this is the basic method of factory cam timing as I understand it.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[LGAFF]

Spoke to Doug Rippie, they can teflon coat and refurbish main bearings for $200 per set, if your set is in good enough condition to redo. Sounds like a deal....however he was nice enough to point out that the recoat doesn't solve the next issue:

-Piston Rings!


LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[LGAFF]

I measured the crank journal: took three measurements to verify consistency. As follows:

Main journal #1 2.757
" " #2 2.757
" " #3 2.756
" " #4 2.758
" " #5 2.762


A few questions:
-Thoughts on next steps with the block/crank? Should it be shipped out to clean or is that a DIY? Any machining needed for block/crank? I will probably be sending out bearings to DRM, and ordering rod bearings.

Liners also need to be addressed, as well as pistons.

Once the block and rotating assembly are addressed I will turn to the heads which need some work.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[flyin ryan]

-Piston Rings!


LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234i said before rings are NOT a problem. Total Seal can whip up a set of custom rings in days. no biggie. they doing it for me all the time. they'll just need some measurements, bore dia.
ring(s) thickness
groove depth(s) & height
tension: standard, low, light
plus your intensions with the engine...naturally asperated or power adder etc.

[LGAFF]

I will definately be taking you up on that offer Ryan thanks.

Thanks!


LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[LGAFF]

Slow going right now, waiting on some parts:

1)picked up a crankshaft retainer tool

2)cleaned the girdle today

3)Measured the piston rings, see if these check out with anyone elses measurements:

-Oil Ring: outer diamter(measured on outside): 102MM
Height: 3.5mm
width: 2.75

-rings: diameter(measured on outside) 103MM
height: 1.75mm
width: 4.2mm

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[LGAFF]

Cleaned the block yesterday, with the crank out it is easy to pick up the block off the engine stand. I power washed everything and its lookg fairly clean. All of the steel items were removed, and I am keeping the iron parts of the girdle with a slight coat of oil on the to avoid rusting.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0266.jpg


I also pulled the liner, surprised at how little the effort was to remove the liner, it didn't just slide out but much easier than I anticipated.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0263.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0264.jpg

A few questions:
1)What is the best way to remove the loctite from off the block and liners.
2)What is used to "glue" the liners back in?
3)What is used to seal the lower girdle to the block
4)Best way to removed stains from oil, etc from aluminum?

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[LGAFF]

I have head gaskets on order from Jerry, the next steps will be to get the rod bearings, send my main bearing set to DRM for recoating, and have liners checked/buy pistons and liners.


I also need to decide if I should restore the heads, as I have stated before the secondaries were welded shut. Any opinions if it is worth putting the secondaries back in? Or not worth it?

I also am looking for advice on getting that D*** cross threaded bolt out of the head. This is an IH bolt. I have tried a few drill bits bit it does nothing /they barely dimple the bolt. Any suggestions on bits?

Also I will be going Massachuesetts on Monday hoping to test drive a 90 Z if I have time:mrgreen:

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[Hammer]

I don't have any answers to your questions except cleaning the block, maybe. If it is still available anywhere, I have used an etching wheel cleaner on aluminum wheels before and they came out very nice. A little elbow grease with a brush and the cleaner worked for me. Just wash it off good when you are done. GL

[Polo-1]

glue off....... Brake Clean works or Laquer thinner

Glue... Loctite 565 1/2 bead around cylinder 1 inch up from the bottom.

DRM for recoating bearings? where are they sending them to? just a dry film or new copper/babitt??

[A26B]

I also am looking for advice on getting that D*** cross threaded bolt out of the head. This is an IH bolt. I have tried a few drill bits bit it does nothing /they barely dimple the bolt. Any suggestions on bits?
LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

Lee,
This is something best done on a good drill press. If not done correctly, it can end up a bigger mess than you have now.

When I used to own a machine shop, I had a set of left hand drill bits for this job. Would set up ( plumb to tapped hole & clamp part down) in a radial arm drill press, center punch the stub if possible & start drilling, progressing up from small to larger bits until an easy out of the correct size could be used.

Done incorrectly, it can be drilled off center or crooked into the aluminum, bits or EZ-outs broken off in the old bolt. Really makes the job more difficult.

If it's done right, the thread can usually be chased with a tap to straighten back out if it hasn't galled a lot of aluminum when backed out. If there is not enough metal to simply chase the threads, a heli-coil can be installed.

I suggest you take it to a good machine shop. It's a quick job for an experienced machinist with the right tools.

Jerry

[Zr1 Destroyer]

DRM for recoating bearings? where are they sending them to? just a dry film or new copper/babitt??
More then likely going to Calico for recoating!

[LGAFF]

E-mail sent to Calico, I wil llet you know what their repsonse is, the only benefit you would not have is Doug checks them and cleans them up a bit prior to recoating.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[tomtom72]

what about these guys.....would any thing that they offer be of any help to you LGAFF?

http://www.afterburnercoatings.com/

:cheers:
Tom

[40zr1]

For the bolt you can't get out, find a shop that does ultra-sound. At onetime a shop in California called 'Tapped Out' (?) would remove broken, frozen...bolts in industrial machinery using ultra-sound. I don't know how it would effect aluminum, though.

Oil stains in aluminum, 'Easy-Off' oven cleaner might work. Try on scrap aluminum first. It's chemical compound is sodium hydroxide (lye.) Or 100% caustic, it's strong stuff, feels like soap and if you don't have any cuts in your hand it won't burn or hurt your hands. I worked on many caustic pumps and had it on my skin many times (don't leave it on forever!). It cleans the heck out of the grease that gets embedded in an old millwright's hands!

[XfireZ51]

Lee,

Is the reluctor wheel removable from the crank?

[-=Jeff=-]

Lee,

Is the reluctor wheel removable from the crank?


i don't think so, it is in the middle of the crank

[XfireZ51]

i don't think so, it is in the middle of the crank

So its part of the crank itself then. Just never saw one.

[LGAFF]

It is integrated into the crank, unike the LS1....I will look closer when I get back home.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[Pete]

It's one piece.

Pete

[tpepmeie]

Pete
__________________
'91 #1635 PoloGreen 350 LT5
11.30's @ 127.78
474RWHP 400RWTQ
Pete

Whoa. Have I been asleep? Pete you reached 470+. Very nice!

Todd

[XfireZ51]

It's one piece.

Pete

Pete,

Thanks. Just wondering if there was a way to modify for triggering LS coils.

[8upZR1]

For that stubborn bolt some machine shops, if equipped, use an EDM machine to remove the material. Kinda overkill but definetely the cleanest way.

[A26B]

For that stubborn bolt some machine shops, if equipped, use an EDM machine to remove the material. Kinda overkill but definetely the cleanest way.

This is true. I didn't mention it because it's not too common in job shops. Way back when, they were referred to a "tap disintigrators", probably because the main application was to remove broken taps which can't be removed by drilling. Most were found in manufacturing, used to save parts with broken taps or drill bits.

Even if this method is used, the threads will still need to be chased or replaced with heli-coil considering the bolt was cross threaded.

[LGAFF]

Here is the response from Calico Coatings, I will probably send them out soon:

I am not sure if they can be recoated. I would have to inspect them to be sure. The cost to coat a set of rod bearings is $39 and cost to coat a set of main bearings is $39, there would also be a stripping charge of $40 if they are previously coated. It would take 3-4 days to complete. Let me know how you would like to proceed.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

90 # ???:jawdrop:
Engine from 90 #702

[LGAFF]

Well many of you thought I threw the towel in but not yet, I am just riding out a rough time as I am in the dog house as I try to finalize a purchase of my 2nd Z(Don't ask its been a PITA..and its not done). I began to dissamble the heads and will post pics today.

I sent the timing chain cover to Jerry so he could fab some gaskets, and as a plug to Jerry word on the streets is that his gaskets are quicly becoming the standard.

I will walk through removing the cams, etc then I need to get new pistons, liners from Polo-1 and new gaksets and then I will hopefully finish the shortblock this summer.....I have cancelled plans to build and long block as I need to sell off some stuff to cover the purchase of my 2nd Z.

I anticipate the shortblock will go in 90 #966 and not my lower mile 92 #234.

Anywhoo pics coming with info....hope this is useful

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[LGAFF]

Here the the head.....obviously first step would be to remove cam cover bolts..

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0314.jpg

Shot with the cam cover removed and cams exposed: Notice the cam hold downs, these are soley to hold the cams is place and from what I understand not a true bearing surface. Underneath the front hold downs is a thrust bearing which looks like it helps keep the cam from walking(maybe someone can shed more light on its purpose.)


http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0316.jpg

Cam plug/Seal: These are the rubber plugs you can see at the end of the ends, 4 per head....

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0315.jpg

[LGAFF]

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0319.jpg Here is a shot of the thrust bearing under the cam hold down.

Below are pics of the reluctor for the Cam position sensor; someone can fill in more detail but the basics are that the position sensor is magnetic, and the slot disrupts the signal and this is what tells the engine the position and RPM of the cam.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0322.jpg

Below is a shot of the front of the cam, as you can see the gear is pinned at the top, there are plate before and after the gear when the pin is put in place it locks in the position of the gear.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0327.jpg

[Pete]

Lee,the front cam caps have the thrust bearing in them.
I would be careful trying to pull the cams down with those little caps and screws.

Pete

[LGAFF]

Underneath each cam lobe is a lifter, here is a picture of the lifter from a side shot.....the part that rides the cam is flat..

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0329.jpg

The bottom rides rides on the valve stem tip, here is a shot of the bottom, of the lifter on the left, to the right you can see the top of the valve spring:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0328.jpg

[LGAFF]

The valve spring is held in place with a cap, in the center there are two retaining clips which creat an interference when the lock into the top of the stem itself. There are actually two springs, and inner and outer, belwo is a shot fo the cap, springs.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0339.jpg

Pics of retainers on the end of a telescoping magnet:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0337.jpg


In order to remove the spring, you need a spring compressor as pictured below: The top part of the compressor which looks like a pick presses against the valve face, the bottom of the compressor uses an attachment to push on the outside fo the valve spring cap. This allows you remove the retainers and release the tool allowing you to take out the valve

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0333.jpg

[LGAFF]

I did not have the tool adapter which presses on the outside of the valve spring cap.....so on phrogs advice I went to Home Depot, bought a 1" PCV pipe fitment, and used it....

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0331.jpg

Pic of PCV attachment being put in place over the valve stem cap:
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0332.jpg

Pic of tool in place:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0334.jpg

[LGAFF]

Once the tool is in place, use a telescopic magent to remove the retainers...shot of valve cap from inside the compressor adapter: You can see the retainers, one is place one that has falen out.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0336.jpg


Once done place the valves in order:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0340.jpg

[LGAFF]

Pic of the porting on the heads in the bowl:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0342.jpg

[Zr1 Destroyer]

You should never use a magnet on your internal engine components......trapping unwanted metalic dust formed from the cam and rings lapping in during break-in on your valve train is not good, but its your motor.

[LGAFF]

I am taking this apart....everything is going to be cleaned prior to reassembly.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[LGAFF]

Lee,the front cam caps have the thrust bearing in them.
I would be careful trying to pull the cams down with those little caps and screws.

Pete

Pete,

I am not torquing down the cam caps, I am just pointing out the main purpose of the caps is to hold the cams in place not truly a bearing as the cam covers....

[Zr1 Destroyer]

I am taking this apart....everything is going to be cleaned prior to reassembly.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234Just be careful.....cleaning your valve train components will not de-magnatize them.


I used a magnet to remove the lifters on my gto motor rebuild when I was 16 and my dad just about had a stroke and made me replace all the lifters and toss the old ones that were in perfect shape........friggin old school.

[tomtom72]

Lee, :thumbsup:

I would just like to say thanks for all this posting that you're doing. It's alot different seeing these pictures as opposed to reading the FSM and even watching the CD training film.

I'm sure glad that you are taking the time to present this in pictures & text! I'm thankfull as I've never seen any of this stuff...Thanks again!

:cheers:
Tom

[LGAFF]

Took the cams apart today:

Front shot of cam snout with hardware in place.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0327.jpg

The cam has a set of timing chain gears on it; this slides on the cam, the gears have timing holes in them....they simply slide onto the cam, in no particular position.

For cam timing, each cam has a timing hold down hole in it. In order to set the timing, the cam is placed in the cylinder head and the hold down holes are aligned with hold down holes in the cam hold down....this are held in place with pins that hace handles on them. Once in place, a D Center plate with timing holes slides onto the cam, up against the timing gears. The cam snout itself has a D-Faced suface that helps in holding the gear in place. After pinning the cams, the slcak is removed and I beleive the engine is then rotated 720 degrees, the pins are then reinserted to veridy that timing is correct, and then the washers are slid into palce, and the bolt torqued down on the snout. The cam can be held in place with a 19mm wrench on the back side of the cam, allowing you to tighten the 14mm Cam bolt.

Pics of cam hardware:

lft to rght; Cam gear, D-center plate(with pin above, washer, bolt)
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0367.jpg

Pic of Gear pinned to D-Center plate(off the cam)

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0370.jpg
LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234
As always...experts pipe up if any misinfo

[LGAFF]

Here is a pic of the cam snout, note the D-Shape to lock help hold the cam gear in palce once it is pinned:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0364.jpg

There is some play in the gear even after pinning, however this is eliminated I beleive once the bolt is torqued down.........I do have one issue, once the cams had some snout damage when I bought it....you can see it here:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0360.jpg

It was torqued down well, however once the bolt is removed there is signifcant play. I assume it may be a nonissue as when the cams are timing they are held into place by the pins but looking for thoughts....here is a video of the difference in play, remeber this is pined but not bolted down:
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/th_DSCN0372.jpg (http://s134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/?action=view&current=DSCN0372.flv)

[LGAFF]

In terms of telling one cam from another there are several ways:

Each can has RH and LH cast into them. They also have bands at the front which are either raises flat or a combo:

Pic of bands:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0352.jpg

(As you can see the lower bands I am pointing to show a LH Intake, upper LH exhaust)

LH E= 2 raised bands
LH I= 1 flat and 1 raised

RH E: 1 raised
RH I: 1 flat

**The reluctor is always on the LH exhaust.

[LGAFF]

To clarfy here is a shot of what a cam hold down pin looks like:

http://www.handsontools.com/Kent-Moore-J-37326-Camshaft-Timing-Alignment-Pin-Set-for-Chevrolet_p_6263.html

Here is a video of how it would be installed....except I am use a torx screwdriver for demo purposes......there are four hold downs to insert two for each cam, this sets the factory timing....of course the crank is positioned by rotatating the crank until it locks into place using putitng an interference tool into the crank position sensor, which then locks into place on a specific position on the reluctor.
http://s134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/?action=view&current=DSCN0374.flv

Here is a drawing of the crank tool, slot at the top slips into the slot in the reluctor.
http://www.handsontools.com/Kent-Moore-J-38098-Crankshaft-Timing-Slot-Locator-for-Chevrolet_p_6264.html

Not easy but not the magic one would think.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[8upZR1]

The first time I took LT5 apart I was kinda let down by the simplicity, especially after everyone I talked to hyped it up as being some insane super exotic deal. I was extremely happy to discover the built in adjustability of the cam gears though. Not many OEMs design adjustability into there valvetrains.

Another way to ID the cams is to look at the profiles. You can tell the intake cams cause they have different lobes for the 2 intake valves.
The driver side exhaust cam has the ring for the position sensor.
I dunno if there is an easy marking to tell the pass and driver side intake cams. I just keep them with their exhaust cam.

[Pete]

Another way to ID the cams is to look at the profiles. You can tell the intake cams cause they have different lobes for the 2 intake valves.
The driver side exhaust cam has the ring for the position sensor.
I dunno if there is an easy marking to tell the pass and driver side intake cams. I just keep them with their exhaust cam.

I can tell the cams blind folded :) that's scary.

Another way to tell left or right intakes is the center bob weight's are same diameter as the exhaust,basicly left side exhaust and intake are the big bob weights the right side have small ones.

Also the front snouts of the cams are different from left to right longer/shorter.

Pete

[A26B]

Lee,
No one else has chimed in on the cam damage, so I will offer my 2 cents.

I am concerned about the integrity of the cam and re-using it. The cam nose design was modified for the later 405 Hp engine to add a second flat to address problems with the sprocket/vernier assy security to the camshaft. The bolt does hold the assy axially secure to the camshaft but does little if anything to secure it radially. That job is the function of the flat. With the amount of slack shown in your video, it is evident that the flat is damaged and does not have the fit & surface contact area as intended. You can time the cam with the slack taken out, but under operational load, it will have a higher propensity for failure. There may also be cracks that are not visible, further affecting structural integrity.

It may not immediately break the cam nose off when it fails, but at a minimum, when the flat shears and the sprocket/vernier rotates on the camshaft, metallic particulate will be released into the crankcase.

I would not use that camshaft in a new engine.

[LGAFF]

Thanks Jerry,

I was concernd also, thats alot of play in the cams. I was also wondering if this was part of the issue with cam timing variance, or is that related to chain stretch?

Anyone have pics of the 405 hp cam snouts?

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[lbszr]

Thanks Jerry,

I was concernd also, thats alot of play in the cams. I was also wondering if this was part of the issue with cam timing variance, or is that related to chain stretch?

Anyone have pics of the 405 hp cam snouts?

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

From Marc's website there's a 3 degree play with the pin in. The fine adjustment is done by holding fixed and torquing cam bolt, which is very tight. His website also talks about other variances that can affect timing.

So in theory, it doesn't need the pin. Just helps in adjustment.

I went through 4 bolts on one cam to get it right on the money at $25 a bolt since there not suppose to be retorqued. The other three didn't put up a fight like that one.

[8upZR1]

I dont think the damage is of concern cause its the bolt that holds the gear to the cam. Ive seen quite a few DOHC 4.6L & 5.4L Ford motors that are used for endurance racing. No keyways what so ever. If the bolt were to loosen, the sprocket would spin. The engine builder has quite a class wins in 12 & 24 HR deals so when I saw it I was dumb struck. I had spent the majority of the previous week in the machine shop fabbing custom offset keyways for my 4.6L, which was apparently a waste of time.

Haibek has reuseable ARP bolts for cam sproket.

[Pete]

Haibek has reuseable ARP bolts for cam sproket.


I would not reuse the ARP's.
The cam bolts at 19 flbs and 85 degrees is 120-125 flbs our huge head bolts go to 118flbs.

I would not reuse the ARP's or you'll have front cam snouts like Lee's pictures.

Pete

[phrogs]

I would not reuse the ARP's.
The cam bolts at 19 flbs and 85 degrees is 120-125 flbs our huge head bolts go to 118flbs.

I would not reuse the ARP's or you'll have front cam snouts like Lee's pictures.

Pete


I tried to use the ARPs and ended up breaking one of them off in the camshaft while torquing it

[LGAFF]

Pete,

Why do you think the cam snout broke? The prior owner stated that the piece came off with little torquing if the bolt.


LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[Pete]

I think either he over tighten the cam bolt and the bolt stratched to far at this point the holding power is not there or he under tightened it and was too loose and once he wacked the throttle the cams flat spot hit against the vernier flat and broke the cam.

I have tested over tightening bolts the bolts broke but never broke a cam snout.

Next time your at my garage i will show you cams and vernier plates that moved and beat up the cam flat spot.

I used to have cam slipping issue,until i figured it out.
There is a trick to putting these on so as not to move.
Never had the issue again i have rechecked them after a few thousand miles with no issues.

Phrogs when you broke the bolt did your cam snout break?

Just my opinion.
Pete

[8upZR1]

What trick are you using Pete?

[Pete]

What trick are you using Pete?

Lots of Loctite.

Pete

[LGAFF]

Ordered a new LFT Intake cam and wear strips from Kurt.....so getting closer to moving forward. I would like to complete the engine this winter and have it in the 90 by next spring.

I am guessing that the cam bolts cannot be reused. So I still need to pick up:

1)Replacement pistons and liners...(I have a lead on these, just need to pull the trigger)

2)Rod bearings

3)Cam bolts

4)Washers for head bolts

5)balancer

-The heads need some work
*welding intake ports for a better IH seal
*IH bolt needs to be extracted that broke off inside

I was wondering best way to check valve stems to ensure they are lined up properly and that valves are sealing. I am also wondering what is needed to ensure proper torque specs on the engine bolts:thread chasers, good torque wrench(looking for brand name)etc.

[LGAFF]

Also looking for a list of speacial tools that are an absolute necessity:

I have the crank locator tool, Cam pins are easily made.


-Wondering if carter can make the hold downs used to simulate the cam cover?


Anyone have a pic of the oil pump allignment tool?

[carter200]

fax me what you need and I'll see what I can do for you 325-625-5795 :thumbsup:


PS: Saw a balancer on ebay.........

[carter200]

I was wondering best way to check valve stems to ensure they are lined up properly and that valves are sealing. I am also wondering what is needed to ensure proper torqu specs on the eninge bolts:thread chasers, good torwue wrench(looking for brand name)etc.

Craftsman makes a good "click" torque wrench. You could always "re-lap" the valves in using valve lapping compound to ensure seal. Check with water. Blow out port when done. A heat gun would make sure of water gun, too. Good luck on your project :thumbsup:

[Polo-1]

I am guessing that the cam bolts cannot be reused. So I still need to pick up:

1)Replacement pistons and liners...(I have a lead on these, just need to pull the trigger)

5)balancer



350 or 368 :wink:

Also have the balancer too. :thumbsup:

[LGAFF]

Well its about time to reopen this thread, got my rod bearings from Jerry's gaskets today as well as the valve guide, so my heads will be done shortly.

Motor will be out shortly, now trying to decide...I might rebuild using the #702 block....pull #966 port heads and rebuild it.

[Polo-1]

I have a block with fresh torque plate hone 4.010 LA sleeved ready to roll.
Many 350 liners/pistons, 368 4.00 pistons/rings/mod stock rods for 368,heads,cams, intakes, ...........

What do you need. It's going to be a fire sale:wink:

[LGAFF]

looks like my cylinder liner and piston issues are resolved!

[-=Jeff=-]

cool, use the 702, build it up

[Polo-1]

looks like my cylinder liner and piston issues are resolved!

;)

[LGAFF]

Engine Main bearings are off to Calico Coatings: http://www.calicocoatings.com/the-calico-way/


$40-45 to recondition.....

[LGAFF]

Bent valve too.......

[-=Jeff=-]

Why did you bend a valve?

[LGAFF]

Thats how I bought it apparently, also a broken valve guide...who knows why

[-=Jeff=-]

Ah.. getting the pieces ready for the build?

[LGAFF]

Heads are almost done, pistons and liners on the way, main bearings at Calico, rod bearings from Jerry.....its all coming together:)

Hoping for 500hp @ the crank

[-=Jeff=-]

Cool deal!! so you are getting this cool stuff.. what did you have to get the wife?

LOL

[LGAFF]

Debating if I use my OEM head gaskets or buy a set from Jerry

[bldavis11]

After this much time and effort, I'm somewhat shocked that you would even question which gaskets to use. That's a no brainer for me!

[LGAFF]

by OEM I mean the new OEMs I bought from JErry, I would think everyone would be interested in the new headgaskets performance

[LGAFF]

Wait til you see the pics of the head. I stopped by and dropped off a intake valve at the shop, took some pics of the heads and will post them tonight.

For $800.00 Valve job, reshaped the ports, cleaned up the combustion chambers, blasted the intake runners, and pulled out the cross threaded IH bolt out...this required him to reconstruct the area.....I don't know how the prior owner could have gotten the bolt in like that.

Only issue was the new lifters I bought on ebay are too tall and will not work...but my old ones are in great shape.

Before and after pics tonight.

[LGAFF]

Before......http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0004.jpg?t=1224458818

[sammy]

by OEM I mean the new OEMs I bought from JErry, I would think everyone would be interested in the new headgaskets performance seeing the quality of jerrys stuff and all the work he has put into each and every piece he has redone i would use his stuff .it might just be an improvement over the oem stuff .jmho

[bldavis11]

by OEM I mean the new OEMs I bought from JErry, I would think everyone would be interested in the new headgaskets performance
Well that makes a whole lot more sense. I was just scratching my head on why you would ever reuse head gaskets in your rebuild!

[LGAFF]

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/193.jpg

[LGAFF]

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/194.jpg


The IH bolt hole on the let was totally reconstructed as the bolt as broken off flush and in sideways, ca't really tell

[XfireZ51]

Nice but I'd still open up the primary runner for all the hassle you're going thru.

[LGAFF]

I think there is plenty of flow as is....need to consider one side was over 40mm at the top

Both sides are ported

I am not drilling for oil or anti-freeze

[LGAFF]

When you consider the sie of Kevin's ports these are plenty big for a 350 LT-5:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y292/kpie/KP9.jpg

[XfireZ51]

...
I am not drilling for oil or anti-freeze

What are you suggesting, that others have hit oil and/or anti-freeze?

[Toyvet1]

Okay you two play nice, lol....

[tomtom72]

Nice machine work! You FBI guys are lucky that you have a shop close by that you can trust.

Good luck with the project Lee. It sure looks like it's going to be sweet!:cheers:

[LGAFF]

Filled up the Shopping Cart at Jerry's to see how much more I need to have everything ready. This is going to be pretty much built with all Gaskets from Jerry.......

Rod Bearings from Jerry here

Have stock pistons and liners coming from Kevin:)

Pete got a straight valve to me, thanks Pete.


Calico coated bearings are on their way home.

Pick up heads next week.

Getting closer, need to get the crank checked....also need cam bolts.


Are the rod bolts OK to reuse?

[Polo-1]

Are the rod bolts OK to reuse?

With the under cut shank on the stock bolts I would say no, for me. I'm sure they could be reused in a pinch. I think Marc has the ARP replacements.

[lbszr]

With the under cut shank on the stock bolts I would say no, for me. I'm sure they could be reused in a pinch. I think Marc has the ARP replacements.

I've used ARP's from Marc, and they're reusable if they are installed with a bolt stretch guage.

[LGAFF]

Holy $hit $195 for rod bolts....hope that adds 10HP:sign10:

[Polo-1]

try $1360 for head studs:wink:

[LGAFF]

Its $90 to flow test these.....is it worth the $ or will I only get the....well there is such variance in flow benches, etc?


Thoughts....

[XfireZ51]

Its $90 to flow test these.....is it worth the $ or will I only get the....well there is such variance in flow benches, etc?


Thoughts....

Why not flow them against the GVDs I have then you'll have a good benchmark. I'm curious about mine anyway. See if he'll cut a deal on 2 sets of heads. I think Pete has a set done at his place. That would be cool to compare the three.

[Polo-1]

Big Dogs GVD Mono runner 334cfm @ 450 lift. Stock Valve

[LGAFF]

Just an FYI, i bought a full set lifters off ebay(only paid $32)....HT-2236 Sealed Power....machine shop advised they will not work with heads.....checked cross reference today and it shows this is an LT-5 lifter....

Will post pics tonight.

Lee

[limey]

The HT-2236 require shims, they are shorter than the stock GM ones, although they can "fit" they don't.

[Pete]

When you say shorter,how much shorter.

Pete

[LGAFF]

Actually the stockers are shorter.....will post pics

Stock on left: http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN1379.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN1380.jpg -stock on left shorter

[LGAFF]

Brought the heads home today:

Reshaped IH bolt boss....
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN1381.jpg

Primary is 35MM at entry(which is actually .5" into the head, drops to 34.5 1/2 way through, 34MM into the bowl

Secondary is 36MM at top narrows to 34MM into bowl.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN1382.jpg


http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN1383.jpg

[tpepmeie]

Actually the stockers are shorter.....will post pics

Stock on left:

-stock on left shorter

Are you certain? The INA lifter on the left is almost definitely aftermarket, and looks similar to the lightweight buckets I am running in the 427. The height difference is solved in my case with +1mm longer valve stems.

Weigh them up... you'll find the oem piece around 75g, and the INA one considerably less, depending on which design.

[Jagdpanzer]

Todd
Will your lightweight lifters work with stock valves?

[tpepmeie]

Probably not, unless you do a valve job and sink the valves, or use shims (lash caps) on the tips.

[LGAFF]

Those are the lifters that were in the heads, and also the only ones that worked with the valves....

[Paul Workman]

I think there is plenty of flow as is....need to consider one side was over 40mm at the top

Both sides are ported

I am not drilling for oil or anti-freeze

Not drilling for oil...or antifreeze?? What fun is that???:razz:

I'd be tempted to open it up at the bottom, just a tad, which can be done w/o significant danger of punching through. (I'd tell ya, but Marc would have to kill me!;)) How some ever, proof is in the pudding/dyno/trap time, as it were.

Question: Did you have to have the IH's built up as well? I assume so, if the IHs were port matched to the "before" heads. Or, did you just buy the heads with intention of using some other IHs? Are the IHs siamesed as well?

It will be interesting to see the results! Is there another 500+ hp FBI Z in the making?:dancing

P.