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#1 |
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For the not so smart folks like me, I wanted to share some information I came across in my quest for power and understanding how things work.
This moments of inertia article made me fully understand how reducing weight gains horsepower. http://www.stockcarracing.com/techar...moi/index.html I can wait to feel MOI in the Z after replacing my flywheel, clutch, pistons and connecting rods with lighter components. ![]() |
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#2 |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Northridge, CA
Posts: 1,456
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#3 |
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#4 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Alexandria, Virginia
Posts: 1,453
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Wow, that some great information. I will have to test drive a bothers car that has made the switch. I have read about the gear rattle, just wonder if I can live with it when sitting behind the wheel.
Rich
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1990 Bright Red Coupe #608 380 Stroker, Ported Heads/Intake/Housings/TB Haibeck Secondary Delete Chip / Pete's Cams George Braml Intake / FIC Injectors Coated SW Headers / Corsa Bill Boudreau B/B ZF6 / Viper 4.10 gears Ron Davis Radiator Pioneer AVIC-Z140BH NAV Fikse FM5's 285 / 335 / C6 Brakes WAZOO Member |
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#5 | |
Join Date: May 2009
Location: S Nevada
Posts: 351
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![]() Quote:
Spins the tires much easier. On mine I get no noise at idle but on light throttle I do. Well worth it mod. Plan on there being noise. ![]() Last edited by Kb7tif; 08-11-2009 at 01:17 PM. |
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#6 | |
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Just a Kb7tif mentioned, I think from what I have heard the rattle is inevitable even if slight. A friend of mine here has the light weight flywheel with ZF6 on an LT1 and I can barely hear his if at all, not to say that mine will be the same. Another friend of mine that has a new Porsche 911 had the same results with the lightweight flywheel and even thought his rattle is more pronounced, I can live with it. I think the subject has been beat like a dead horse on other threads. Here is what Bill B from ZFdoc has to say about the noise: The "at idle gear clatter" with LT5 engine and light weight flywheel combination can range between "not that bad" down to "really bad" depending on the health/integrity of the ignition system. The slightest miss in the ignition system will cause gear clatter to really be present. There are a few tricks to minimizing this occurance of gear clatter: 1) Go through the transmission's main bearings setup to make sure that the very thickest shim possible is installed at the front and rear main bearings as well as the counter shaft front main bearing with the retainer clips fully seated. I know this really helps based on experience. This takes about one hour and $100 in small parts, gaskets and new oil. 2) replace the four of the eight coil fasteners with nylon fasteners which eliminate the coil's propensity to develop shorts at the coil plug-in lead ends. 3) New coils/wires/plugs are always better to do this with if they aren't already new. He added to state: Ace Hardware sells nylon bolts the same thread size as the OEM coil fasteners (8 total). Take four nylon bolts and cut them to the correct length... results in lower propensity for the coil to seek/develop an altered ground path through the least durable portion of the coil at the fastener lug between the coil leads. ![]() |
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#7 |
Join Date: May 2009
Location: S Nevada
Posts: 351
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To me it goes like this, if you puttz around with your can you will see no benefit, and very well introduce fresh set of noises. If you like to wind that engine up then the fidanza is for you.
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#8 |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Glendale, CA
Posts: 41
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I guess it's time to go on a diet... How much horsepower will I gain if I lose 100lbs????
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#9 |
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#10 |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Jacksonville, FL USA
Posts: 4,609
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Hey Craig, thanks for posting this info!
![]() ![]() I like the one about the nylon bolts.....I'm gonna look into that as I'm going to swap my top end parts and I bought new OE coils to replace my Jegs coils.
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1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member |
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