Starting issue

[evl_twn]

I've had my Z sitting idle for months (due to winter and a crappy spring) and have only had it out a few times this year. Last week, I started driving it a bit more. Went for a drive Friday and had no issues, probably put about 150 miles on with a few stops along the way. On Monday, I drove about an hour away from home, and when I got back in the car to head for home it wouldn't start. I was still reading 12.5 on the center display voltmeter, but it was acting like the clutch switch was not made. Turn the key all the way to the start position and got nothing. Of course, I started freaking out thinking about how I'm going to get the car home, and on a holiday no less. I started checking fuses, connections, etc, but still no luck. I then found someone with jumper cables, and we hooked up and the car then started. So, I headed straight for home, and it's started fine ever since. I just pulled the battery out and had it load tested, and it tests fine (only three years old, and I keep it on a battery tender).

What are the possible causes? One of my battery connections might have been _slightly_ loose, but the only other things I can think of would be the starter solenoid, or the clutch switch. Is there any tests I can do on either one for some peace of mind? I really don't want to be stuck again

Is the clutch switch a huge operation to r/r? I looked under the dash and it looks like it's pretty well covered up. I don't even want to think about having to pull the starter.

[tomcat]

I just pulled the battery out and had it load tested, and it tests fine (only three years old, and I keep it on a battery tender).

Hello,

I had the same issue & it was my battery. I took the battery out & had it checked & it check fine. 2 weeks later & it happen again. I changed the battery and been running fine since.

Manfred E...........
91 #906

[tccrab]

The starter in the LT5 if extremely sensitive to voltage/amp drops, either in the battery voltage or through voltage drop due to extra resistance in the associated circuitry.
Buy a new battery and hopefully the problem will go away.
If it comes back, there's *tons* of good information here on my "Dreaded NO Start" thread:
http://www.zr1netregistry.com/forum/...ead.php?t=1849

Let me know if I can be of any help, been through this before.
It's been over two years since I fixed my "No Start" problem and I've NEVER had another problem with starting.

Tom

[tomtom72]

Just a fwiw, a load test is great but did anyone do a specific gravity test on the electrolite?

If you have a 3 yr battery and it's close to 3 yr's old and you keep it on a battery tender you could be having electrolite issues....I'm not familiar with these battery tenders that the car guys use. I dis-conn mine if the winter is bad enough for no Z use. Even a "float charger" will eventually "boil" the electrolite enough to cause issues.


Tom

[bobbyhi]

Originally Posted by tccrab

The starter in the LT5 if extremely sensitive to voltage/amp drops, either in the battery voltage or through voltage drop due to extra resistance in the associated circuitry.
Buy a new battery and hopefully the problem will go away.
If it comes back, there's *tons* of good information here on my "Dreaded NO Start" thread:
http://www.zr1netregistry.com/forum/...ead.php?t=1849

Let me know if I can be of any help, been through this before.
It's been over two years since I fixed my "No Start" problem and I've NEVER had another problem with starting.

Tom

When I had the dreaded "no start" issue a couple of years ago, Tom sent me a wiring diagram for adding a bypass relay. Installed it and I haven't had a problem since. Now that I said it - it is probably the "kiss of death" Good luck

[Sgreg]

Three years is a loooog time for a battery to last in your occassional driver. That's all I get in my Z. Gel and Optima batteries might do better but AC Delco and other lead/acid batteries don't like sitting even with a battery tender. Don't ask me why.