Parking brake adjustment screw

[Wigert]

Hello

Have any of you rebuilt the rear calipers and done the adjustment screw tuning of the parking brake? I am reading the FSM and it does not make sense to me... I apply a firm brake pedal push and try to follow the instructions to adjust the screw to achieve a play of 0.6-0.7 mm between lever and caliper housing. But I can easily get 5 mm at least and the screw does not seem to affect this at all... Am I misunderstanding something? Please help!

I have new pads and rotors of course. The parking brake has always been on the limit to achieving a sufficient grip. But I was expecting it to become much better after doing the rebuild and changing pads and rotors. I am replacing the wires as well but that does not affect the adjustment screw issue I am trying to understand.

Thanks in advance!

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[Wigert]

I managed to get some more understanding. In order to reduce the gap the brake pedal needs to be pushed several times in succession from the start. The FSM only said to push it ones during the initial tuning but that lead to a big gap in my case. But it says to push the pedal 3 times in order to verify the gap. So maybe I am reading it wrong but now I am able to perform the adjustment.

Would this mean that for the parking brake to work properly, the brake pedal always needs to be pushed down first?

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[Rodder]

The parking brake is just like on any car when it works as it should.

You push the pedal to take out the play you otherwise have between the pads and rotor, to find zero. Then just turn the small screw in or out so you get the 0,6mm. Off the pedal and done. After pulling the parking brake handle few times mine was down to 5 clicks.

Thomas

[Wigert]

Originally Posted by Rodder

The parking brake is just like on any car when it works as it should.

You push the pedal to take out the play you otherwise have between the pads and rotor, to find zero. Then just turn the small screw in or out so you get the 0,6mm. Off the pedal and done. After pulling the parking brake handle few times mine was down to 5 clicks.

Thomas

Thanks for the reply!

I did not manage to get 0.6-0.7. Even if I turned the screw out from the vicinity of the spring clip, the gap was still more than that. I did remove the big spring to easier check the gap and I did a firm push on the arm to measure.

I now changed all the cables. The rear section seem to have longer metal part than stock whick now gives me a new gap between the arm and the caliper when released. See figure. Do you think that it will affect the normal brake wear? I do not think the parking brake is riding the rotor when released..

By the way, the ratcheting mechanism in the lever still goes to the tightest setting after two pulls without effort...


IMG_20210316_214232.jpg

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[Rodder]

I had that spring off aswell and backed the screw out so it stuck out maybe 1mm to get the 0,6. What you doing seem right, that should work. Wonder if is a wear issue, really not many parts to go wrong here.

Do your autotensioner in the brake handle tight up the cables ok? Had to clean mine and lube it to get it working again after disable it.

If you not have abnormal drag when turning the wheel your cables should be ok.

[Wigert]

Thanks for the input! I also think it's, weird that I cannot get it to spec. Maybe there is still some air behind the dustboot slightly extending the part thats used for the park brake...

The ratchet part in the lever seems to be working, though a bit slow in rotation. It's still odd that with everything new, there is not really any additional tightening possible in the mechanism.

We will see if it goes through inspection later.

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