Shifter console refinishing/repair

[BlueDevlC7z]

The rubber like coating on my shifter console on my 93 Z is scratched and peeling. I've scoured the Internet and the other forum looking for options. From what I'm reading, they are unavailable from GM now and the reproductions do not have the coating applied. What have you guys done to bring the console area back to OEM condition? My 95 LT1 never had a scratch in it the 15 years I owned it. Thanks in advance for the help. This may be the best forum I've ever been a member of.

[XfireZ51]

Following. I have a console to play with and would like to refinish it.

[Corvette95]

I am working on a project to refinish them AND the LT5 radio bezels with all new lettering. I actually have several prototypes done, one is installed in my car (ZR-1) now. You can PM me if you would like to talk about sending yours for reconditioning for feedback and testing purposes. I am doing 90-to 95's. All are done by hand.

[conesare2seconds]

Originally Posted by Corvette95

I am working on a project to refinish them AND the LT5 radio bezels with all new lettering. I actually have several prototypes done, one is installed in my car (ZR-1) now. You can PM me if you would like to talk about sending yours for reconditioning for feedback and testing purposes. I am doing 90-to 95's. All are done by hand.

Following with interest. Thanks for working on a solution.

[secondchance]

Best solution I have so far is to remove dulso finish. Find relatively mild finger nail polish remover, soak btrifly and as soon as the finish starts to bubble, scrape it off. If you are lucky and choose correct remover, you can remove finish without nasty surface scarring of plastic substrate. Minor gouges can be filled and sanded smooth with plastic model filler.
Then, 3M flat black 2080 vinyl body wrap can be used to wrap the piece. You have to squeeze air bubbles out and after wrapping inside and outside corners have to be heated using a heat gun to around 210 degrees to defeat vinyl memory.
Shiter bezel is relatively easy due to it being mainly flay. Radio bezel is tough due to shape but doable. Resulting finish has almost identical sheen, texture but far more durable.
For lettering, I turn to vinyl lettering service. For full, normal, and engine power lettering, .1? helvetica bold caps in white are convincing.
Not easy but very doable.

[LGAFF]

Try sticky no more

https://stickynomore.com/pricing

https://stickynomore.com/pricing/chevy-corvette

[Corvette95]

Originally Posted by secondchance

Best solution I have so far is to remove dulso finish. Find relatively mild finger nail polish remover, soak btrifly and as soon as the finish starts to bubble, scrape it off. If you are lucky and choose correct remover, you can remove finish without nasty surface scarring of plastic substrate. Minor gouges can be filled and sanded smooth with plastic model filler.
Then, 3M flat black 2080 vinyl body wrap can be used to wrap the piece. You have to squeeze air bubbles out and after wrapping inside and outside corners have to be heated using a heat gun to around 210 degrees to defeat vinyl memory.
Shiter bezel is relatively easy due to it being mainly flay. Radio bezel is tough due to shape but doable. Resulting finish has almost identical sheen, texture but far more durable.
For lettering, I turn to vinyl lettering service. For full, normal, and engine power lettering, .1? helvetica bold caps in white are convincing.
Not easy but very doable.

Yeah, mine uses screen print like was done at the factory for the power lettering, I found that vinyl looks like, well...vinyl.

[Corvette95]

Here are my prototypes of the 90, all finished was removed and recoated, lettering is not decals, same as OE lettering.

[lfalzarano]

What was the paint you used and where did you find it?


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry

[Corvette95]

Originally Posted by lfalzarano

What was the paint you used and where did you find it?


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry

Custom pallet mix, took days of trial and error