AC Recharge - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

32valvZ · 04-30-2018

Anyone try one of the do it yourself cans of R-134a? Apparently mine had leaked out or is low and I thought I would give one of these a try. I figure if it stays cold then it maybe was low... if it leaks out quickly, Ill bring it to a service shop. If it does leak out quickly, where is a common failure point? Its been converted to R134a already... Any precautions?
Thanks!

TX '90 ZR1 · 04-30-2018

If you are in fact low on freon the green indicator light over the control panel button you have selected should be flashing. Check the codes.
Low freon pressure is code 9. It can be cleared by disconnecting the battery or pulling the breaker for a few seconds. Negative battery cable is easier in my estimation.
Hook up a guage to the low side and see if you have pressure without the engine running. If pressure present, you have not lost all of the charge.
Start up and turn AC on. (Code must not be present). Does the compressor engage? If it does engage and your low side reading is under about 30 you are low enough on freon to kick the code and shut the system down.
If the compressor is cycling, try adding freon to bring the low side pressure up. The acceptable pressure varies by temp, atmospheric pressure, humidity, etc.
A good number for a typical 70-80 degree day is upper 30's. You can find charts online to figure this out.
If your compressor does not engage, you can use the paper clip method on the pressure sensor to engage the compressor until you get enough in the system to come on by itself.
I would not recommend just adding freon without knowing what the system is doing. Too much can be as bad or worse than not enough.
By the way, the schrader valves are bad about leaking.

32valvZ · 04-30-2018

Thank you TX 90.... I do know a few things right off....
1. the compressor is not cycling
2. the green light does not flash
3. it blows warm air

Unfortunately I sold my Robinson Gauges many years ago... I suppose the safest way to do it, is just bring the car to the shop.

Thanks Again for your advice!

rush91 · 05-01-2018

Yes.....I did it 2 summers ago. Used a whole can, but damn it blew ice cold for that summer! By the time I got it out last year, it has all leaked out over the winter....I don't think I'm gonna mess with it this year, I think I'm going to try that piece that keeps your hatch open,to let the air pass through.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

XfireZ51 · 05-01-2018

I’m going to be in the process of replacing compressor, dryer, and ac lines along w new seals. I usually stay away from AC because frankly I never use it. But the gf is another story especially on long rides. Is there a “typical” place where refrigerant tends to leak out on our cars?

TX '90 ZR1 · 05-01-2018

Quote:

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

I’m going to be in the process of replacing compressor, dryer, and ac lines along w new seals. I usually stay away from AC because frankly I never use it. But the gf is another story especially on long rides. Is there a “typical” place where refrigerant tends to leak out on our cars?

I don't know if the ZR-1 system has any "typical" places to leak, but the schrader valves are a common issue in all systems. You should have them covered with everything you are replacing.

32valvZ · 05-01-2018

Schrader valves can be tightened or even replaced just like in a tire valve stem I would think....

jss06c6 · 05-01-2018

Dominic,

Mine had a plastic cap on the low pressure valve on the accumulator. The o-ring under the cap was old and allowed the top of the cap to slightly compress the Schrader valve stem which, over time, lost much of my R-12 charge. I went to O'Reilly's and they found an old brass low pressure cap, machined to match the chamfer on the low pressure valve. Recharged and installed the brass cap and have not had a leak in two years now.

I have all the parts needed to change to R-134, but no need until my current setup causes trouble.

Sent from my XT1585 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app

XfireZ51 · 05-01-2018

Quote:

Originally Posted by jss06c6

Dominic,

Mine had a plastic cap on the low pressure valve on the accumulator. The o-ring under the cap was old and allowed the top of the cap to slightly compress the Schrader valve stem which, over time, lost much of my R-12 charge. I went to O'Reilly's and they found an old brass low pressure cap, machined to match the chamfer on the low pressure valve. Recharged and installed the brass cap and have not had a leak in two years now.

I have all the parts needed to change to R-134, but no need until my current setup causes trouble.

Sent from my XT1585 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app

Interesting. I know that Haibeck likes to seal the high side. I had access to a fairly new compressor vs my original w about 70k+ miles.

gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz · 05-02-2018

Hi my system was not going when I got the car I had the engine out so while it was out I removed the whole system cleaned every thing and got a seal kit for the pump disassembled the pump and resealed it as well while I was doing the pump I replaced the pulley bearing fitted anew dryer and replaced all the orings my local AC man refill the system works great now

Regards Glen Collins

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

04-30-2018	#1
32valvZ Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Sunshine State Posts: 1,071	AC Recharge Anyone try one of the do it yourself cans of R-134a? Apparently mine had leaked out or is low and I thought I would give one of these a try. I figure if it stays cold then it maybe was low... if it leaks out quickly, Ill bring it to a service shop. If it does leak out quickly, where is a common failure point? Its been converted to R134a already... Any precautions? Thanks! __________________ [B]1990 #2815[/B] [COLOR="Red"][B]Red/Red[/B][/COLOR] Ported Plenum & IH (by Pete) Haibeck Chip Rebuilt FPR (by Phil) FIC Injectors Watson LT Headers 3" Stainless Works exhaust Lingenfelter Open Air Lid Bill B Built Transmission Shifter & C Beam Plates [FONT=Impact][COLOR=red]1992 [COLOR=black]#[/COLOR] 091[/COLOR][/FONT] [FONT=Impact][COLOR=#ff0000]Red/[COLOR=silver]Gray[/COLOR][/COLOR][/FONT] [B]SOLD[/B]

04-30-2018	#2
TX '90 ZR1 Join Date: Oct 2017 Location: TX Posts: 1,986	Re: AC Recharge If you are in fact low on freon the green indicator light over the control panel button you have selected should be flashing. Check the codes. Low freon pressure is code 9. It can be cleared by disconnecting the battery or pulling the breaker for a few seconds. Negative battery cable is easier in my estimation. Hook up a guage to the low side and see if you have pressure without the engine running. If pressure present, you have not lost all of the charge. Start up and turn AC on. (Code must not be present). Does the compressor engage? If it does engage and your low side reading is under about 30 you are low enough on freon to kick the code and shut the system down. If the compressor is cycling, try adding freon to bring the low side pressure up. The acceptable pressure varies by temp, atmospheric pressure, humidity, etc. A good number for a typical 70-80 degree day is upper 30's. You can find charts online to figure this out. If your compressor does not engage, you can use the paper clip method on the pressure sensor to engage the compressor until you get enough in the system to come on by itself. I would not recommend just adding freon without knowing what the system is doing. Too much can be as bad or worse than not enough. By the way, the schrader valves are bad about leaking. __________________ Kenny 1990 #442

04-30-2018	#3
32valvZ Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Sunshine State Posts: 1,071	Re: AC Recharge Thank you TX 90.... I do know a few things right off.... 1. the compressor is not cycling 2. the green light does not flash 3. it blows warm air Unfortunately I sold my Robinson Gauges many years ago... I suppose the safest way to do it, is just bring the car to the shop. Thanks Again for your advice! __________________ [B]1990 #2815[/B] [COLOR="Red"][B]Red/Red[/B][/COLOR] Ported Plenum & IH (by Pete) Haibeck Chip Rebuilt FPR (by Phil) FIC Injectors Watson LT Headers 3" Stainless Works exhaust Lingenfelter Open Air Lid Bill B Built Transmission Shifter & C Beam Plates [FONT=Impact][COLOR=red]1992 [COLOR=black]#[/COLOR] 091[/COLOR][/FONT] [FONT=Impact][COLOR=#ff0000]Red/[COLOR=silver]Gray[/COLOR][/COLOR][/FONT] [B]SOLD[/B] Last edited by 32valvZ; 04-30-2018 at 10:21 PM.

05-01-2018	#4
rush91 Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Carterville Illinois Posts: 846	Re: AC Recharge Yes.....I did it 2 summers ago. Used a whole can, but damn it blew ice cold for that summer! By the time I got it out last year, it has all leaked out over the winter....I don't think I'm gonna mess with it this year, I think I'm going to try that piece that keeps your hatch open,to let the air pass through. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

05-01-2018	#5
XfireZ51 Join Date: May 2007 Location: Chicagoland, IL Posts: 9,696	Re: AC Recharge I’m going to be in the process of replacing compressor, dryer, and ac lines along w new seals. I usually stay away from AC because frankly I never use it. But the gf is another story especially on long rides. Is there a “typical” place where refrigerant tends to leak out on our cars? __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Former Membership Chairman Former ZR-1 Registry - BOD 1972 Corvette 4speed base Coupe SOLD long time ago 1984 Corvette Z-51/4+3 SOLD 1992 Corvette ZR-1 Aqua/Gray #474 SOLD 1992 Corvette ZR-1 Black Rose/Cognac #458 2014 Honda VFR Interceptor DX

05-01-2018	#7
32valvZ Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Sunshine State Posts: 1,071	Re: AC Recharge Schrader valves can be tightened or even replaced just like in a tire valve stem I would think.... __________________ [B]1990 #2815[/B] [COLOR="Red"][B]Red/Red[/B][/COLOR] Ported Plenum & IH (by Pete) Haibeck Chip Rebuilt FPR (by Phil) FIC Injectors Watson LT Headers 3" Stainless Works exhaust Lingenfelter Open Air Lid Bill B Built Transmission Shifter & C Beam Plates [FONT=Impact][COLOR=red]1992 [COLOR=black]#[/COLOR] 091[/COLOR][/FONT] [FONT=Impact][COLOR=#ff0000]Red/[COLOR=silver]Gray[/COLOR][/COLOR][/FONT] [B]SOLD[/B]

05-01-2018	#8
jss06c6 Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Magnolia, Texas Posts: 884	Re: AC Recharge Dominic, Mine had a plastic cap on the low pressure valve on the accumulator. The o-ring under the cap was old and allowed the top of the cap to slightly compress the Schrader valve stem which, over time, lost much of my R-12 charge. I went to O'Reilly's and they found an old brass low pressure cap, machined to match the chamfer on the low pressure valve. Recharged and installed the brass cap and have not had a leak in two years now. I have all the parts needed to change to R-134, but no need until my current setup causes trouble. Sent from my XT1585 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app

05-02-2018	#10
gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: New Zealand Posts: 382	Re: AC Recharge Hi my system was not going when I got the car I had the engine out so while it was out I removed the whole system cleaned every thing and got a seal kit for the pump disassembled the pump and resealed it as well while I was doing the pump I replaced the pulley bearing fitted anew dryer and replaced all the orings my local AC man refill the system works great now Regards Glen Collins Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk