Cranks but No Start (days before MR/C4 Gathering)

[RussMcB]

I apologize for starting a new No Start thread, but I need to resolve this quickly, so I figured I'd post here today.

I got my car back from the body shop on Saturday (new paint came out great!), and I've been working on it a LOT since then. The car has started a few times since Saturday, but not in the last 2 days, and I'm getting close to panic mode.

What I'm hoping to gather from you all is a methodical process to identify the problem. I have a FSM but haven't found it useful because the steps require a scan tool, or technical knowledge I don't have.

Below are a few clues. Thank you all for any suggestions you may have. The car still needs a LOT of reassembly (front & rear fascias, interior, etc.), so this No Start troubleshooting needs to be quick or I won't be able to drive my Z to the Mountain Runs or the C4 Gathering.

• The car cranks well but doesn't start.
• It has a full gas tank and good fuel pressure (~50lb, Autometer gauge on a-pillar).
• I installed the VATS bypass plug, and did the Starter Relay mod in February.
• It has started twice since Saturday, but has not started in last 4-5 attempts (12 hours between tries).
• I got it back from the body shop on Saturday. It had a no-start condition while it was with them. After I unloaded it from my trailer on Saturday it started right up with no issues. The car has had this behaviour since I got it in January.
• Tonight Mark Litherman ("8cam") is coming over. With his help I'll see if the spark plugs are getting a spark. We can also swap parts (like computer). My car is a '91. His is a '90.
• I'll check for codes tonight (but the last time this happened, the car threw no codes).

PS. To make matters worse, last night I closed the hood (for the first time since the paint job) and the passenger hood latch is stuck closed. I'm googling to get suggestions for that problem, too.

[Gunny]

Ouch !!! ... sorry to hear what you're dealing with.

re: the hood ... there are probably other methods but one of the handiest tools for this is a tool designed by Gordon Killebrew. Click HERE and look at the 3rd box down on the right. I have one but I'm not particularly close; I hope that Steve has one since he's closer. Have you called Steve?

On the no-start ... don't give up. A lot of the folks on the forum are still at work and won't see your post until dinner time. Hopefully, someone will chime in soon with some good suggestions/ideas/help, etc.

[RussMcB]

Thanks, Gunny. I haven't reached out to Steve yet, but he has offered help. I'll see how things go tonight in the garage. He's on the other side of ATL, so not super close.

I've seen that tool during searching. I might be able to make one. I might also use my floor jack to put a slight twist in the chassis to see if that helps. A good suggection I saw was to drive around the block holding the hood latch pull (but I can't do that one).

I'll report back here with additional clues later. I'll be home in a couple of hours and will check for spark.

[We Gone]

I do have one of the hood tools from Gordon, I think it works on the left side, I'll have to look at it and see if it works on the right also. You may also try to push down slightly on the right side while someone pulls the latch. Sounds like the cable going from left to right may need adjustment or replaced.

Edit: Yes it will work on the right side just went down and checked. You do have to be very careful with it not to mar any paint around the latch area.

[Gunny]

Couple of things to try

If you're trying to open the hood with the car on totally flat surface, re-position it (or jack a corner) so that the passenger corner is either lower or higher than rest of the car, then gently try the hood release. You don't want to break the cable.

If you've got an assistant, try pushing down on the right side of the hood where it latches while someone gently works the hood release ... you might get lucky.

Other than that I don't have any good ideas at the moment.

Did the paint shop have your hood off for the paint? If so, they may not have gotten the exact alignment when replacing the hood.

[Gunny]

Steve,

glad you chimed in ... the tool "should" work either side but it's usually easier (like, piece of cake) on the left. I always had trouble with the right side but Gordon could do it every time ... don't know what was more frustrating, him doing it so easily or his grin when I couldn't.

[RussMcB]

Thanks for the suggestions.

Originally Posted by Gunny

Did the paint shop have your hood off for the paint? If so, they may not have gotten the exact alignment when replacing the hood.

No, they did not. However, the hood has always been a little stubborn on the passenger side. I've lubed it a bunch and tried to adjust it with no improvement. Before last night, it was just a minor nuisance - I had to walk over to the passenger side to pull it up. I should have heeded the warning signs.

[JFFerner]

You may want to try lifting the left side of the hood by the latch with only moderate effort, moving it up and down several inches (without latching it) a few times. This might allow the right side to spring loose.


And so it goes...Jim

[We Gone]

Once you get it open adjust the cable, you will see the adjusting ends at the latch, just have someone pull the hood open lever under the dash and see how much it moves the latch lever.



You can also adjust the spring tension by loosening this nut and turning the striker pin with a large screwdriver.

[RussMcB]

Thanks, Steve, Jim, everyone. Much appreciated.

6PM Update:

The hood is open! I used a floor jack to twist the chassis and that worked. At least now I can see the engine I'm trying to get running. :-)

I am getting spark. It looks healthy. I only tested one plug wire.

I think I have NO fuel pressure. I noticed my recently installed Autometer FP gauge wasn't 'powering up' like it did before. The needle is stuck at 50 psi. I THOUGHT that meant I had fuel pressure, but now with a different mechanical gauge I see no pressure.

So, that's where I'll focus for now. I'll try to determine if 12v is going to the pump(s). Maybe I'll feed 12v to them to see if that allows the car to start.

I know there is a ton of information about our fuel pumps, but your suggestions are welcome (so I don't lose time searching).