Headlight Question, and E-Brake Question

[Racinfan83]

I've noticed a couple times that my right headlight doesn't open when I turn the lights on. But it is intermittent. The motors were rebuilt right before I got the car, so I don't think they are the issue. Sometimes you can turn the lights off and back on once and it will work the second time. Last night it took me 3 tries one time, then the next they both worked first time. Any hints on what might be causing this? Switch? Or a connector somewhere?
Also - while I'm on here - usually takes 3 or 4 tries to get the e-brake to release and light to go off. Is there a trick to how or when you push the button when you pull the handle up to release it - or is there something in that system I need to lubricate?

[We Gone]

On the e-brake, the grease gets old and hard causing the release latch to stick. Remove the cover clean the assembly and apply new grease. The hardest part is getting to the screw on the cover be sure to put down rags so you don't get the old stuff on the carpet.

[Schrade]

I've got a dozen pics of headlight dis-assembly + sequences - gimme' an hour to dig them up from another computer.

If the nylon gear has a crack in it, you can rotate it 180'; problem solved. I did it waiting for a new gear, and the new gear is still on my shelf 6 months later...

[Racinfan83]

Have a show tomorrow - will be able to look at it then. Hoping it's just a connector since I know the motors/gears were just redone. Lights probably haven't cycled over 10-15 times since then.
Don't go spending a bunch of time looking YET - may be something fairly simple - was looking for ideas for when I can get the hood up and look at it...

As to the e-brake - I will clean and re grease. Do you guys know if it matters WHEN you push in the button? As in before you move it, after you move it, when it gets tight, etc.?

[Franke]

Racinfan, I always pull up on the handle slightly before pushing in the button. It makes the release much easier and takes the tension off the release mechanism.

[Schrade]

Originally Posted by Racinfan83

Have a show tomorrow - will be able to look at it then. Hoping it's just a connector since I know the motors/gears were just redone. Lights probably haven't cycled over 10-15 times since then.
Don't go spending a bunch of time looking YET - may be something fairly simple - was looking for ideas for when I can get the hood up and look at it...

As to the e-brake - I will clean and re grease. Do you guys know if it matters WHEN you push in the button? As in before you move it, after you move it, when it gets tight, etc.?

Sound off it you want those snappics - that box is running now in the other room, and I can drop the wrench and post up on just about every angle here...

[Blownrunner]

On my 91', when I disconnected/reconnected the battery, I could hear the headlights' motors gears slipping and clanking. This is a simple test to figure out if there is a mechanical problem. Do they make any noises when the lights pop out from the hood?

[Schrade]

Originally Posted by Blownrunner

On my 91', when I disconnected/reconnected the battery, I could hear the headlights' motors gears slipping and clanking.

THAT sounds like the problem I had when I got mine.

The cracked nylon wasn't taking the worm drive to the Limit Contact, and it was killing the battery.

But here's some stuff for open / close failure:
(I'm not patronizing you here OP; that guy I was helping had zero tech inclination)

Originally Posted by Blade_1

No turn at all? Pics edited in to go with text... Don't connect stuff yet - just lay it out, so you can see what you're doin'.

Note - there is a mistake in the FSM wiring diagram: Headlight motor wires are green and grey for both left and right headlight motors.





Now again, note the wiring diagram labels of the wires that go to the 2 motors - A, B, C, and D. NOTE them for the procedure, and when a reference is made to them, change accordingly.

Disconnect lefthand (or righthand, if it is broken) headlamp door 2 way connector. Notice the gray and green wire on the end of the connector that are the headlight motor wires.

[Schrade]

The rest:

Lay out your battery cables, and connect a piece (2nd pic) of wire to the (+) clamp, and another piece of wire to the (-) clamp at one end. Use different colors if possible, to not confuse them. Connect the cables to the battery when your sure the ends are not touching.






Connect the piece of wire on the 12V (+) FUSED (see what I wrote on the schematic about 'fused testing' above) jumper to the GREEN WIRE connector pin. Connect the wire on the (-) cable to the grey pin connector.


The motor should now turn. If you hear only a click in the motor, switch the green and grey pin to wire connector/jumper. It will turn the other way.

If it does not turn, you have either a bad ground from the module to the frame, or a bad headlight module.

I have highlighted what I THINK is the module ground wire. CONFIRM BEFORE CONTINUING THE (-) GROUND TEST!!!


To test the module ground wire, you need a multimeter. Put the (+) mm probe on the battery (+). Unplug the headlight module connector that feeds the harness (both are circled; one of the connectors has a black wire which is the ground wire, and should be connected to the ground on the rail underneath the headlight). Put the mm (-) probe to the black pin in the connector, the same way you did with the other procedure. The mm should show 12V (about).

If it does not show 12V, you have a broken ground wire. If it DOES show 12V, the module is bad.

[Racinfan83]

Guys - that is AWESOME info! I will be checking this all out!