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#1 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,816
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Got a check engine light today, code 43. Happened right after startup, when the motor was already fully warmed up.
Haven't done any troubleshooting yet, but the next time I started the motor, the code was not active. Seems to be running fine (though I took it very easy when the CEL was illuminated, due to the secondary port throttles being eliminated). I did install an aftermarket knock sensor when I replaced the motor. Wondering if the ECM is not liking it... Any thoughts? Edit: I found the diagnostic chart in the FSM, so I'll follow that tomorrow and see if I can narrow down the issue at all. I fear it may all check out normal, given that the CEL is not currently illuminated, so it may end up being a case where I buy a different knock sensor anyway... Last edited by VetteMed; 03-09-2012 at 11:05 PM. |
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#2 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,816
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Well, following the diagnostic chart in the FSM, the system is working fine.
Using my Tech 1, I can watch the knock sensor detect knock when I rap on the cylinder head with a wrench. The spark is retarded accordingly, until the knocking is stopped, then retard goes back to 0 degrees. Since there's no active code / no SES light, I'll just drive the car and see if the code comes back. |
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#3 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 9,683
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Pull the battery?
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#4 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,816
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#5 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 9,683
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#6 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,816
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Thanks, Dom. It's a neat little tool for sure.
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#7 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Dubai, United Arab Emirates
Posts: 449
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Have been trying to get my hands on a Tech I for a long time. But I have a budget imposed by The Boss and she cannot be argued with. Someone else has told of how many times the "snipers" have ruined their impending purchase on ebay. I have to join that group that looses out right in the last couple of minues or cannot even bid on the thing because of being overseas.
Good luch on finding an affordable Tech I ![]() |
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#8 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,816
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I scored mine as a Buy-It-Now for $350 a few weeks ago. Included a bunch of cartridges, and seems to work perfectly so far. It had only been listed a few hours prior -- so it pays to check ebay often, with "newly listed" being your sort criteria.
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#9 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Dubai, United Arab Emirates
Posts: 449
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Good advice. Will check more often. $350? Within my budget but have never been able to find one near that. Thanks for the heads up.
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#10 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: San Marcos CA
Posts: 1,786
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I bought a broken one (basically I got hustled) for $300. I had the oem rebuild it and that included a new cable...for $690 (!), but I have fixed 3 cars with it and used it almost 10 times for various things...I even did an old fashioned datalog under load to see knock counts and timing...it is useful.
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