Skates me the clutch and it doesn't accelerate

[frank12]

ZR-1 of the year 1991

If I accelerate leaving of stopped = 0 miles/h
He skates me the clutch and it doesn't accelerate
1ª,2ª and 3ª he hardly moves,
once pulled up there is not problem.
If the acceleration makes it of NOT stopped,
it works correctly and he doesn't skate.

Which the problem could be?

[tomtom72]

I'm having just a wee bit of trouble understanding what you are asking. Do I have the correct idea of your problem? My understanding is as follows:

1 gear the motor rpms go up but the car does not seem to move along at the correct speed for the rpms indicated.
2 gear the same.
3 gear the same.
4 gear it seems to be okay.
5 gear it seems to be okay.

To me it seems that the presure plate has lost the ability to keep the clutch disc in contact with the flywheel. Usually in the old days of 4 speed transmissions we would put the car in 2 gear and try to move from a dead stop. If the car bucked or protested then the presure plate and clutch disc we thought to be okay. The more power a car has makes this test not very reliable. If a slipping of the clutch is suspected due to a worn out clutch or a worn out presure plate the car will eventually show less speed per rpm even in the upper gears.

Let me know if I understand your question correctly?

Tom

[frank12]

Originally Posted by tomtom72

I'm having just a wee bit of trouble understanding what you are asking. Do I have the correct idea of your problem? My understanding is as follows:

1 gear the motor rpms go up but the car does not seem to move along at the correct speed for the rpms indicated.
2 gear the same.
3 gear the same.
4 gear it seems to be okay.
5 gear it seems to be okay.

To me it seems that the presure plate has lost the ability to keep the clutch disc in contact with the flywheel. Usually in the old days of 4 speed transmissions we would put the car in 2 gear and try to move from a dead stop. If the car bucked or protested then the presure plate and clutch disc we thought to be okay. The more power a car has makes this test not very reliable. If a slipping of the clutch is suspected due to a worn out clutch or a worn out presure plate the car will eventually show less speed per rpm even in the upper gears.

Let me know if I understand your question correctly?

Tom

If I don't press the very strong accelerator everything it works correctly.
The problem is when I want to make 1/4 of mile
The disk is new ceramic and Kevlar (Flyweel)
The clutch is again remanufactured
The new flyweel Fidanza
The problem has begun after some 10 tests of 1/4 of mile

[tomtom72]

Hi Frank, okay now I understand what the problem is. I'm not a racer so I am lacking in knowledge about a ceramic and kevlar clutch set up. It sounds like the problem is due to a part that has become "glazed" and does not have the proper friction properties. But I know very little about the set up you are using. I apologize for intruding in your thread with my lack of knowledge!

Good luck! One of the members that races may see this and have the answer!


Tom

[frank12]

If I don't press the very strong accelerator everything it works correctly.
The problem is when I want to make 1/4 of mile
The disk is new ceramic and Kevlar (Flywheel)
The clutch is again remanufactured
The new flywheel Fidanza
The problem has begun after some 10 tests of 1/4 of mile

Once the car is to some 4 miles/h and he has started,
they hook all without any problem to maxim it potentializes
(thoroughly pressing the accelerator)

[tomtom72]

Hi Frank,
In my limited knowledge in this area I would say that it might be that the tires can't get traction from a standing start. The power from the motor is causing the tires to spin without moving the car forward, loss of traction or no traction to speak of. I know some of the guys that do the 1/4 mile use something called drag radials so the motor does not overpower the tires ability to provide traction. I confess that I'm not familar with this type of tire. I do not know if it is a racing tire and I've no idea who makes this type of tire.

It sounds like your problem is lack of tire grip, or as we used to say in the old days "you are going up in smoke!". The tires are spinning but no grip to the pavement.

Tom

[pantera1683]

Originally Posted by tomtom72

I'm having just a wee bit of trouble understanding what you are asking. Do I have the correct idea of your problem? My understanding is as follows:

1 gear the motor rpms go up but the car does not seem to move along at the correct speed for the rpms indicated.
2 gear the same.
3 gear the same.
4 gear it seems to be okay.
5 gear it seems to be okay.

To me it seems that the presure plate has lost the ability to keep the clutch disc in contact with the flywheel. Usually in the old days of 4 speed transmissions we would put the car in 2 gear and try to move from a dead stop. If the car bucked or protested then the presure plate and clutch disc we thought to be okay. The more power a car has makes this test not very reliable. If a slipping of the clutch is suspected due to a worn out clutch or a worn out presure plate the car will eventually show less speed per rpm even in the upper gears.

Let me know if I understand your question correctly?

Tom

My car started doing this very badly today and there is a burning smell coming from the clutch area. What will I need to replace, just the clutch?

[sammy]

after you replaced the clutch did you do 600miles of stop and go driving before trying drag race starts ? if you didnt break the clutch in by doing stop and go driving before you started doing drag launches you most likely glased the disk or pressure plate material or both / if you go to the drag strip you will have alot better luck with drag radials .nittos new nto5r tire is a really good one to get

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by sammy

after you replaced the clutch did you do 600miles of stop and go driving before trying drag race starts ? if you didnt break the clutch in by doing stop and go driving before you started doing drag launches you most likely glased the disk or pressure plate material or both / if you go to the drag strip you will have alot better luck with drag radials .nittos new nto5r tire is a really good one to get

I agree with Sammy. The same thing happened to me once (not the ZR-1). I was in too much of a hurry to start racing and burnt it up. This, according to Marc Haibeck, is especially important when using the Veleo pressure plate, as "they tend to be slightly cupped", making it easy to burn up the disc until the disc has taken the shape of the pressure plate.

If the clutch was not broken in before going racing, the clutch ceramic - Kevlar friction disc is probably ruined - especially now that it smells burned.

for the pressure plate and the flywheel, the surface of the pressure plate may well be bad now too and may have to be replaced. The Fidanza has replaceable friction plates. If the flywheel is also damaged, then that will not be so expensive to fix. I recommend replacing the pressure plate AND the friction plate on the Fidanza. If not, then there is a risk that there has been some hard spots created on the metal surfaces and you will likely have more trouble and you'll have to replace it anyway - from my experience (for what that is worth).

The important thing is to break it in before 1/4 mile racing. Some manufactures provide a procedure for breaking in a new clutch, and some just say to drive it in traffic for 500 miles (800 km) or so.

Sorry about having to find out the hard way. Good luck w/ it.

P.

[A26B]

I was also one of those who didn't obey the break-in procedure for 500 miles. Trust me, when they say 500 miles of city, stop & go driving, it does NOT mean 400 miles. So, I ended up torturing myself with a total of 900 miles of city driving in my new 415 before I could go out & "play".