R and R Pilot Bearing/Bushing - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

Don in VT · 09-28-2010

Hi All,

I have reviewed the Search Forum and Solutions for any final tips on the R and R of my bad pilot bearing. I have a few questions that remain.

On the motor--Do I loosen or remove the air intake boot ?

What about the sensor at the rear of the motor next to the firewall ?

What about loosening the motor mounts ?

Do I need to leave the hood up when I tip the motor ?

My concern about the motor mounts is because they are 20 years old and I understand that they are oil filled and if I over-flex them will they now develop a leak ?

Any tips on this pilot bearing job would be appreciated.

Regards,

Don in VT.

QB93Z · 09-28-2010

You need to have a tool to remove the pilot bearing. If you don't have one I can send you a picture and a link.

For peace of mind, loosen the clamp on one end of the intake duct. Don't forget to tighten it up after the job.

I normally don't remove the MAP sensor (back of the plenum), but some guys do. Just be careful not to drop the bolts behind the engine.

I have never loosened the motor mounts, and I have not had any problems.

I have always had the hood down but not latched when pulling a transmission.

Are you working on a lift or jack stands?

Other tips:

The back of the motor HAS to be supported when you disconnect the C-Beam. I use a block of wood placed at the back edge of the pan. Just don't block access to the three small bolts that hold the cover on the front of the clutch housing (bell housing).

To remove the drive shaft, you have to disconnect the rear U-joint. In order to do that you will need to rotate the rear wheels to reach both of the U-joint clamps. The transmission has to be in neutral. If the car is on a four-post lift, you will need to jack up the rear end of the car to be able to turn the wheels. (If you are working on jackstands, it is not a problem.)

When you actually remove the transmission, put the shifter in 1st gear to get the best clearance with the shifter opening.

When you tip the back of the transmission down to get it out (and back in), oil WILL run out of the rear seal (where the drive shaft was). Not a big deal unless you are under that end of the transmission. See if you can find a temporary seal (looks like a plastic cup) at an auto parts store.

To aid in the reinstall, I made two alignment pins that support the transmission and align it as you engage the shaft with the pilot bearing. Here is a picture of the alignment pins:

I bought two bolts that are longer than the bolts that hold the transminssion to the clutch housing. Then I cut off the heads and ground a slot in the end so that they are installed and removed with a screwdriver. (The ones in the picture are a little longer than they need to be, about 3 1/2 inches of shank is good.)

The sequence to install the transmission is:

1 Alignment pins NOT installed. Transmission in first gear. Rear of the engine tilted down.

2. Insert the input shaft into the clutch bearing with the rear of the transmission low (so the shifter clears the tunnel).

3. Push the transmission forward until the shifter is in the opening and the rear of the transmission can be raised to level.

4. Support the rear end of the transmission.

5. Push the transmission forward and install the alignment pins in the lower two bolt holes.

6. While an assistant operates the clutch pedal, push the transmission the last inch until it mates with the clutch housing. Note: If you were really lucky when you aligned the clutch disc, the transmission will slide all the way in without operating the clutch.

7. Remove the alingment pins and install the bolts.

When are you planning to do the repair and where are you in Vermont? I will be in New England this weekend and if you aren't too far north, I could stop by and lend a hand on Saturday.

Good Luck!

Jim

pantera1683 · 09-28-2010

I was lucky, I was able to pull it out with my finger.

Don in VT · 09-28-2010

Did the new bearing press in easy or hard ? How did the new pilot bearing work after replacing ?

Thanks

Don

pantera1683 · 09-28-2010

The new pilot went in fairly easily. I used a socket and rubber mallet to install. I don't know if it was mentioned before, but measure the depth of the bushing before you remove it and install the new one to the same depth. The new pilot worked fine, but my old one was fine too. My problem was the throwout bearing but since I was swapping the clutch assbly and flywheel I decided to change the pilot bushing too.

rhipsher · 09-28-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by pantera1683

I was lucky, I was able to pull it out with my finger.

Now that's scary. That bushing must of been f*cked up to come out that easy.

rhipsher · 09-28-2010

Also Don while your at that point if there's any upgrades you've been thinking about doing such as adding a light wieght flywheel or a much stouter clutch nows the time to do it. Get it all done at once.

09-28-2010	#1
Don in VT Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Fairfax, VT Posts: 203	R and R Pilot Bearing/Bushing Hi All, I have reviewed the Search Forum and Solutions for any final tips on the R and R of my bad pilot bearing. I have a few questions that remain. On the motor--Do I loosen or remove the air intake boot ? What about the sensor at the rear of the motor next to the firewall ? What about loosening the motor mounts ? Do I need to leave the hood up when I tip the motor ? My concern about the motor mounts is because they are 20 years old and I understand that they are oil filled and if I over-flex them will they now develop a leak ? Any tips on this pilot bearing job would be appreciated. Regards, Don in VT.

09-28-2010	#2
QB93Z Join Date: May 2007 Location: Westminster, Maryland Posts: 3,689	Re: R and R Pilot Bearing/Bushing You need to have a tool to remove the pilot bearing. If you don't have one I can send you a picture and a link. For peace of mind, loosen the clamp on one end of the intake duct. Don't forget to tighten it up after the job. I normally don't remove the MAP sensor (back of the plenum), but some guys do. Just be careful not to drop the bolts behind the engine. I have never loosened the motor mounts, and I have not had any problems. I have always had the hood down but not latched when pulling a transmission. Are you working on a lift or jack stands? Other tips: The back of the motor HAS to be supported when you disconnect the C-Beam. I use a block of wood placed at the back edge of the pan. Just don't block access to the three small bolts that hold the cover on the front of the clutch housing (bell housing). To remove the drive shaft, you have to disconnect the rear U-joint. In order to do that you will need to rotate the rear wheels to reach both of the U-joint clamps. The transmission has to be in neutral. If the car is on a four-post lift, you will need to jack up the rear end of the car to be able to turn the wheels. (If you are working on jackstands, it is not a problem.) When you actually remove the transmission, put the shifter in 1st gear to get the best clearance with the shifter opening. When you tip the back of the transmission down to get it out (and back in), oil WILL run out of the rear seal (where the drive shaft was). Not a big deal unless you are under that end of the transmission. See if you can find a temporary seal (looks like a plastic cup) at an auto parts store. To aid in the reinstall, I made two alignment pins that support the transmission and align it as you engage the shaft with the pilot bearing. Here is a picture of the alignment pins: I bought two bolts that are longer than the bolts that hold the transminssion to the clutch housing. Then I cut off the heads and ground a slot in the end so that they are installed and removed with a screwdriver. (The ones in the picture are a little longer than they need to be, about 3 1/2 inches of shank is good.) The sequence to install the transmission is: 1 Alignment pins NOT installed. Transmission in first gear. Rear of the engine tilted down. 2. Insert the input shaft into the clutch bearing with the rear of the transmission low (so the shifter clears the tunnel). 3. Push the transmission forward until the shifter is in the opening and the rear of the transmission can be raised to level. 4. Support the rear end of the transmission. 5. Push the transmission forward and install the alignment pins in the lower two bolt holes. 6. While an assistant operates the clutch pedal, push the transmission the last inch until it mates with the clutch housing. Note: If you were really lucky when you aligned the clutch disc, the transmission will slide all the way in without operating the clutch. 7. Remove the alingment pins and install the bolts. When are you planning to do the repair and where are you in Vermont? I will be in New England this weekend and if you aren't too far north, I could stop by and lend a hand on Saturday. Good Luck! Jim __________________ If it isn't fun, you aren't doing it right! 1990 Black ZR-1 - sold 1993 Quasar Blue ZR-1 1994 Competition Yellow ZR-1 1995 Dark Purple ZR-1 Maryland State Coordinator WAZOO Member

09-28-2010	#3
pantera1683 Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Fort Worth, TX Posts: 396	Re: R and R Pilot Bearing/Bushing I was lucky, I was able to pull it out with my finger.

09-28-2010	#4
Don in VT Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Fairfax, VT Posts: 203	Re: R and R Pilot Bearing/Bushing Did the new bearing press in easy or hard ? How did the new pilot bearing work after replacing ? Thanks Don

09-28-2010	#5
pantera1683 Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Fort Worth, TX Posts: 396	Re: R and R Pilot Bearing/Bushing The new pilot went in fairly easily. I used a socket and rubber mallet to install. I don't know if it was mentioned before, but measure the depth of the bushing before you remove it and install the new one to the same depth. The new pilot worked fine, but my old one was fine too. My problem was the throwout bearing but since I was swapping the clutch assbly and flywheel I decided to change the pilot bushing too.

09-28-2010	#7
rhipsher Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Houston 90 Red ZR-1 Posts: 2,320	Re: R and R Pilot Bearing/Bushing Also Don while your at that point if there's any upgrades you've been thinking about doing such as adding a light wieght flywheel or a much stouter clutch nows the time to do it. Get it all done at once.