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#1 |
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Prather, CA
Posts: 804
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Got a couple questions, couldn't find much of any info on this in "Solutions" or with a forum search.
1. Is it ok to beadblast the top end parts (plenum, cam covers, etc.) to get the old paint off before painting or powder-coating? Or is it better to chemically strip them? 2. Can anyone give any details as to the process for making the plenum smoother for painting/powder-coating? Sandpaper grits to use, etc? 3. Does anyone have any insight into painting vs. powder-coating the LT5's top end? Which is better? Or is it just a preference/whichever is easier type thing? I have heard that powder-coating could possibly degrade/turn yellowish with time? |
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#2 | |
![]() Join Date: May 2010
Location: Japan
Posts: 3,101
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1. The shop that I used for powder coating bead blasted all my parts first then the baked them (I forgot what temperature to remove impurities in the metal). Then they used a primer powder coat and then powder coated color with a clear powder coat. 3. I went for powder coating for the durability. I have never heard about the powder coating changing color and I hope it does not happen to mine in the long term. I just don't have the talent or equipment to attempt it myself so I sent it out to a powder coating shop to do.. Hopefully someone that had done it themselves will chime in and just wanted to share my powder coating work done. These are the local folks I used but they have some good info about the process, etc. I think it was about $500 to do the cam covers, plenum, IHs, TB, air horn. I paid $75 per wheel to do my stock wheels to black centers and now $75 per center for the CCWs. Not cheap, but very high quality and I think it will last a long time with low maintenance. http://www.sunsetpowdercoating.com/p...-services.html
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Craig "ZR-1 NO KA 'OI" "ZR-1 ICHIBAN" 1995 #228 Black/Black with Dunn Heads ZR-1 owner since September 2003 ZR-1 Net Registry Founding Member #0074 NCM Lifetime Member #2048 ![]() |
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#3 |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,466
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Marc H no longer powder coats because "PC tends to be brittle and it will often crack and slough off around the bolts." He paints his.
I painted mine. I simply wet sanded mine down then used a filler primer and more sanding to level and smooth before applying the finish coats: a high-temp silver wheel paint and high temp clear coats. It doesn't crack, apparently. As for yellowing, Marc had problems with some powder coats that did turn yellow (more golden - almost looks like it was on purpose!). However, there are high-temp clear powder coats available where that shouldn't be a problem. The wheel paint really contrasts with the old faded green-grey of my stock 90 in this photo - to give you an I-dear. ![]() An unusual shot... ![]() Another look at the color... ![]() Then you could always just polish it like Keith Moudy did... ![]() Lotza options! P. |
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#4 |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 775
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Man, that polished engine looks sweet!
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#5 |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,314
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Your not supposed to use a two part powder coat with clear coat otherwise the clear coat will turn yellow over time from engine heat. Thats why it pays to take it to somebody who specializes in powder coating show cars ect. They already know what works and what doesn't work and how to properly prep everything.
Since I had mine PC'ed I've had to take the plenum off to replace an alternator and another time to replace a starter. There was no cracking or flaking off around any of the holes. If you want the best most indistructable finish possible for your pride and joy powder coating is the only way to go. I just don't know why anyone would go through all the painstaking process of removing all the top end stuff prep prime and paint it when it's going to only last 4-5 years before it starts flaking off. Even Sanjay had to take his 415 to Coreys and have the whole top end re finished because the LPE paint started flaking off. "I'm just saying!" ![]() John is the freakin man at Precision Powder Coating. http://precisionpowder.net/ Last edited by rhipsher; 08-19-2010 at 07:16 PM. |
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#6 | |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Bartlett, IL
Posts: 7,158
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what we did not sand on the plenum was the recess in the center on the top and looking at it you can tell. We also kept going on the top to polish it you can see the texture difference best in this picture ![]() ![]()
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1990 Corvette ZR-1 #1051 Watson Headers (2" Primary) - Flowmaster Cats - Borla Catback Late Model IH - Plenum Coilovers - 4.10s Shelby Series 1 - Wilwood Brakes Custom Interior NCM Lifetime Member #978 |
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#7 |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: utah
Posts: 128
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Marc H. did mine and I'm very pleased with it!
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1994 ZR-1 Admiral blue/beige #67 |
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#8 |
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Prather, CA
Posts: 804
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Thanks for the info guys! Very nice looking LT5's!
We will probably be painting the LT5 in Evan's '92 Z and I'll most likely do the same on mine. We are planning to go with metallic silver with black letters and red numbers. |
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#9 |
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Georgia
Posts: 230
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#10 | |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 1,047
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Robert ZR-1 Net Registry Oregon State Director 91 ZR-1 #431 Black/Black LPE 368 |
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