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Old 01-09-2015   #11
8cam
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 451
Default Re: 1990 ZR1 Interior Light Flicker

Water got into the door switch. My car lives outside and after the recent deluge, I had the exact same problem on my 90. For me, everything dried out after a while and the problem went away. I do need to pull the switches and check/clean them, but the problem is more that water is getting into the door. Mine are not loose and the plungers work perfectly, but they still flickered until the water was gone. You and I both have a seal issue.
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'90 ZR-1 #1322 Daily Driver, 64k and counting
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Old 01-09-2015   #12
Kevin
 
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: pittsburgh
Posts: 4,633
Default Re: 1990 ZR1 Interior Light Flicker

Quote:
Originally Posted by KFoster View Post
I thought it might come to that. How do you get it out (pry it)? Does it just pop out or do you have to go in with door panel off?
I used a small flat head screw driver and wd40. I'd pry it out spray it with wd40, work it, pry it out, spray, work till it worked as normal
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Old 01-12-2015   #13
KFoster
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Decatur, AL
Posts: 93
Default Re: 1990 ZR1 Interior Light Flicker

8Cam, I think you may be right as the switches move in and out freely. Thanks.
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Old 03-09-2015   #14
KFoster
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Decatur, AL
Posts: 93
Default Re: 1990 ZR1 Interior Light Flicker

Fixed the problem with a new switch after it killing a new battery. The lights were staying on when the car was running and going off after a few mins of the car being turned off. Couldn't drive at night with the interior lights one. I guess there was still a battery drain with the lights off as it killed the battery. I replaced the battery and the switch. It was weird that the lights were on with the doors closed on off when open. When I started to replace the switch, it started working as it should. When I unbolted the switch, I could shake it and the lights would go on and off. So, something internal. I used another members suggestion of a longer bolt with the head cut off to hold the backing plate in place to change switch with the door panel in place. It worked well. Getting the connector out was a little hard due to the lock tabs. I trimmed the corners of it slightly so it went back in easily, even though I should never have to change it again.

Thanks to all who offered suggestions. Hope the conclusion of this helps someone else.
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