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#11 |
![]() Join Date: May 2008
Location: Mauriceville, Texas
Posts: 179
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Progress Pictures Part 2:
Head exposed & lifters removed - ![]() Breaking loose head bolts - ![]() Head Bolts awaiting removal - ![]() Cams, lifters and head bolts removed - ![]() A look behind the front engine cover - ![]() I can't figure out how to remove the heads after the 10 head bolts have been removed from each side. I have tried tapping the head with a rubber mallet, I tried gentle prying with a screw driver. I have gone through the service manual and I can't find any reference to any special head removal procedure. Anyone out there have any tips on getting the heads removed? I'm suspecting there are dowel pins (guide pins), does anyone know where they are located on the case/head? |
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#12 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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There are two dowel pins. Use a bigger rubber mallet.
Also just remove all your wiring harness and fuel rails. It'll just get int the way. |
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#13 | |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Kalamazoo MI
Posts: 1,760
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![]() Don't tap it with the rubber mallet wack it with the mallet kinda under and up just like jeff said there are dowel pins stick up a little over a 1/4 of an inch over the base of the block. You'll see give it a good wack don't be afraid you wont hurt it. Hard to see in this picture but I love it ![]()
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JOHNNY P Currently own 90 ZR-1 #845 DRM 500 engine package 90 #226 Parts car Hit me up if you need anything. Last edited by phrogs; 09-14-2009 at 01:46 AM. |
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#14 |
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 688
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Great pictures, documenting your tear-down. I enjoy and appreciate you taking the time to post them.
I was wondering if anyone knows what the "1040" written on the front of the block means??? Rick |
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#15 |
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Washington
Posts: 952
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1040's were know to leak water. These motors were built right after break time, on the line.
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#16 |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Northridge, CA
Posts: 1,456
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#17 |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Chicagoland,IL
Posts: 2,667
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The fixed chain guides are bolted to the heads,one on each side.
There is 1 plug in front of each head (13mm) take those out and you will see the 10mm screws. When your ready to remove the heads make sure you don't bumb the plastic guides while removing the heads you can break them. Don't ask me how i know. Pete
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'91 #1635 PoloGreen 350 LT5 11.09 @ 129.27 11.04 @ 128.86 474RWHP 400RWTQ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFNFOhGGlR4 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZlRIOMwaDYY https://sites.google.com/site/peteszr1garage |
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#18 |
![]() Join Date: May 2008
Location: Mauriceville, Texas
Posts: 179
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Engine damage update #1
I managed to get the heads off today and got a first hand look at the damage. Before I got the heads off, based on the #5 spark plug and #5 exhaust port, I thought the problem was going to be on #5, and sure enough thats where the damage was. #5 cylinder liner and piston damage: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#19 |
Join Date: May 2009
Location: S Nevada
Posts: 351
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Damage to head?
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#20 |
![]() Join Date: May 2008
Location: Mauriceville, Texas
Posts: 179
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Engine damage update #2:
#5 combustion chamber and head gasket damage - The head gasket remains in place just as it appeared when the head was lifted off of the block. ![]() All four corners of the combustion chamber show some damage ![]() The gasket on top is from the other side of the engine is is used for comparison...close inspection shows the beginning of gasket failure (cracks and rust) ![]() #5 is on the right, #7 is on the left ![]() The area around #5 got so hot it melted several of the plastic secondary assembly connectors: ![]() Engine experts - I have several questions: 1) are stock pistons and cylinder liners inter-changeable from '91 to '94? 2) the combustion chamber damage...can it be welded/repaired? 3) there is no visible valve damage...but to be on the safe side I might change them out...are stock valves (intake and exhaust) interchangeable from '91 to '94? |
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