Antifreeze leak - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

ralph92ZR1 · 07-26-2009

Thanks for the info and the offer but hesitate driving to Maryland with the leak. Will look into a pressure tester. Appreciate the response.

=D>

ZR1Vette · 07-26-2009

If your reference to 'cross member' is this item>>>

then another item to look at is the mesh covered hose.

I would check the clamps (eg tighten) for the hose that goes from the water pump to thermostat housing... hose looks like this>>

Also would carefully inspect the hose itself (since it is mesh covered might be hiding a small defect).

XfireZ51 · 07-26-2009

You can usually get a pressure tester on loan from Autozone or Advance Auto.

LGAFF · 07-26-2009

The downpipe hose that runs down behind the fan is a common place where the hose can rub through......happened to the 24hr endurance car, and my 92.

GOLDCYLON · 07-26-2009

Are the waterpump bolts tight? The pooling leads me to beleive this is the issue

ralph92ZR1 · 07-30-2009

I first took the easy route; removed the belt tensioner and belt. Could access the hose clamp into the block. Snugged it up and also the rest of the hoses and clamps. I have Samco hoses that are only 2 years old. Have the front end up on jack stands and level. Have ruled out the radiator since no air flows, etc. The crossmember I am talking about is the one that can be removed to access the front oil pan bolts. Anyway, still leaks, and comes out dead center on the center of the cross member. Now the question is it the water pump bearing, the gasket, or bolts. The bearing assembly seems tight (no play). I can reach in and feel a wet area on the lowest portion of the water pump. So I guess to really tighten the bolts, I will have to drain the system and remove all the hoses and pump pulley?? Once I do that, I would hate to put everything back together and wish I had replaced the gasket and pump anyway. You mentioned the bolts. Is there another way to access and tighten???
I appreciate your thoughts and any suggestions because this will take some time for me to do, but I do enjoy working on the car.
Thanks again.

secondchance · 07-30-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by ralph92ZR1

I first took the easy route; removed the belt tensioner and belt. Could access the hose clamp into the block. Snugged it up and also the rest of the hoses and clamps. I have Samco hoses that are only 2 years old. Have the front end up on jack stands and level. Have ruled out the radiator since no air flows, etc. The crossmember I am talking about is the one that can be removed to access the front oil pan bolts. Anyway, still leaks, and comes out dead center on the center of the cross member. Now the question is it the water pump bearing, the gasket, or bolts. The bearing assembly seems tight (no play). I can reach in and feel a wet area on the lowest portion of the water pump. So I guess to really tighten the bolts, I will have to drain the system and remove all the hoses and pump pulley?? Once I do that, I would hate to put everything back together and wish I had replaced the gasket and pump anyway. You mentioned the bolts. Is there another way to access and tighten???
I appreciate your thoughts and any suggestions because this will take some time for me to do, but I do enjoy working on the car.
Thanks again.

If I understand your post correct, leakage is between the water pump and the block?
If so, although it has been a few years, after water pump replacement I noticed water was still seeping through a week later. I was able to access all bolts (can't remember if I removed the pulley) with extension and a socket, tightened up a little more and all was good.

White Bullet · 07-26-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZR1Vette

If your reference to 'cross member' is this item>>>

then another item to look at is the mesh covered hose.

I would check the clamps (eg tighten) for the hose that goes from the water pump to thermostat housing... hose looks like this>>

Also would carefully inspect the hose itself (since it is mesh covered might be hiding a small defect).

I vote for the radiator but pressure testing is the way to go.

ZR1Vette, Nice detailed car

!

GOLDCYLON · 07-29-2009

Any updates?

ZR1@LAST · 07-29-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by White Bullet

I vote for the radiator but pressure testing is the way to go.

ZR1Vette, Nice detailed car

!

Thanks for the visual. Agree, nice detailed car and shop/garage

Jeff
90 ZR1

07-26-2009	#1
ralph92ZR1 Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Shillington, Penna. Posts: 67	Re: Antifreeze leak Thanks for the info and the offer but hesitate driving to Maryland with the leak. Will look into a pressure tester. Appreciate the response. =D>

07-26-2009	#2
ZR1Vette Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Reston, Virginia Posts: 930	Re: Antifreeze leak If your reference to 'cross member' is this item>>> then another item to look at is the mesh covered hose. I would check the clamps (eg tighten) for the hose that goes from the water pump to thermostat housing... hose looks like this>> Also would carefully inspect the hose itself (since it is mesh covered might be hiding a small defect). Last edited by ZR1Vette; 07-26-2009 at 09:30 AM.

07-26-2009	#3
XfireZ51 Join Date: May 2007 Location: Chicagoland, IL Posts: 9,686	Re: Antifreeze leak You can usually get a pressure tester on loan from Autozone or Advance Auto.

07-26-2009	#4
LGAFF Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Crystal Lake, IL Posts: 7,180	Re: Antifreeze leak The downpipe hose that runs down behind the fan is a common place where the hose can rub through......happened to the 24hr endurance car, and my 92. __________________ LGAFF 90 #966-150K miles-sold 92 #234-sold 1987 Callaway TT #17 1991 ZR-1 #1359

07-26-2009	#5
GOLDCYLON Join Date: May 2007 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 9,120	Re: Antifreeze leak Are the waterpump bolts tight? The pooling leads me to beleive this is the issue __________________ GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V

07-30-2009	#6
ralph92ZR1 Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Shillington, Penna. Posts: 67	Re: Antifreeze leak I first took the easy route; removed the belt tensioner and belt. Could access the hose clamp into the block. Snugged it up and also the rest of the hoses and clamps. I have Samco hoses that are only 2 years old. Have the front end up on jack stands and level. Have ruled out the radiator since no air flows, etc. The crossmember I am talking about is the one that can be removed to access the front oil pan bolts. Anyway, still leaks, and comes out dead center on the center of the cross member. Now the question is it the water pump bearing, the gasket, or bolts. The bearing assembly seems tight (no play). I can reach in and feel a wet area on the lowest portion of the water pump. So I guess to really tighten the bolts, I will have to drain the system and remove all the hoses and pump pulley?? Once I do that, I would hate to put everything back together and wish I had replaced the gasket and pump anyway. You mentioned the bolts. Is there another way to access and tighten??? I appreciate your thoughts and any suggestions because this will take some time for me to do, but I do enjoy working on the car. Thanks again.

07-29-2009	#9
GOLDCYLON Join Date: May 2007 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 9,120	Re: Antifreeze leak Any updates? __________________ GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V