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#31 | |
![]() Join Date: May 2005
Location: Nichols, FL
Posts: 611
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You can cut the thermo pill spring and block the bypass, this will result in the coolest operating temps. http://www.deliquescence.net/~tyler/misc1/Thermo.jpg Tyler |
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#32 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Spring TX
Posts: 1,341
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At what temp would damage to the engine occur? That seems to be more important than who's car runs the coolest and why?
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#33 | |
![]() Join Date: May 2005
Location: Nichols, FL
Posts: 611
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Tyler |
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#34 |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Jacksonville, FL USA
Posts: 4,609
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Jim thanks for the recco on Mr Haibeck's chip....I've been willing to live with it till now. It's just no fun any longer having to stop playing when the temps start to rise and wait for the stock programming on the fans to do it's cooling job. I get really paranoid when the oil temp gauge gets to 1/2 way and the water temp gauge stays at 3/4 or more! It just scares the chit outta me. I swear I can't get my head around when my C5 & C6 buddies push it till the DIC tells them "reduced power mode/ temp warning"....I'd have had two heart attacks by that time!
![]() I guess I'll ask Mr. Haibeck if I could buy a prom with the fan programming changed to what he says it should be.
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1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member |
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#35 |
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Thunderbolt, Ga.
Posts: 253
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QB,
96-2000 Ford Mustang 4.6L uses the same style t-stat with bypass valve but it doesnt have the cutouts. I used one for a while and didnt notice any difference. If you get rid of the bypass you wont have coolant flowing through the block when the t-stat is closed. |
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#36 |
![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: Westminster, Maryland
Posts: 3,684
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Thanks 8upZR1. I will get one of those without the notches and drill a hole to keep the temperatures equalized. Then I should be able to reduce the bypass flow at low enginr rpm.
Bob, Regarding the question of maintaining low engine temperature at idle, my 1993 will do that. I never could leave the car idling before I replaced the radiator. Now I can. Coolant temp stays at 198. I guess the engine heat load at idle is enough lower than the engine heat load at 1600 rpm and 50 mph that the limited radiator flow can keep the coolant temp down at idle. Tyler, Thanks for the input. Do you think that a small hole drilled in the body of the thermostat would allow enough flow to ensure that the thermostat does respond to coolant temp? Jim |
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#37 |
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: lone pine and mammoth lakes
Posts: 1,406
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you might try drilling 2 1/16 in holes along the edge of the thermastat just inside the rubber seal. it takes the car longer to heat up. i did this with the 92 and the car with a 180 stat runs 182-184. i tried 3 holes but the car wanted to run below 180 which i didnt want on an alluminum engine
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#38 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Alex VA
Posts: 1,080
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I have a 165 thermostate (zr-1 speciality products) if anyone needs it $100
reprogram the fans, or you can install a switch to control it manually. I have the big ron davis rad, and the only time I run hot is with the ac on creeping along for 30 min in traffic in 90 deg weather revving the car up helps, or turning off the ac pete did an interesting thing and went to an electric pump not as much flow and not a mod for racing but it increases flow at idle and seems to keep the car cool under normal driving with the big radiators they "recover" much quicker once you get moving, but they don't work well at low speeds because the fans have a hard time pulling the air throught the much thicker cooling stack anyone know of bigger better fan setup?? |
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#39 | |
Join Date: May 2009
Location: S Nevada
Posts: 351
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#40 | |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: San Antonio area
Posts: 1,183
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Replace the link with the correct gauge wire or an in-line fuse - a 30 amp fuse will do the job. And yes, those are the two fan relays.
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“Buy the best example of what you want, and pay whatever it takes. That way, you cry only once.” ~ Bruce Meyer |
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