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#11 | |
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If they don't, I stock GM masters and slaves. When bleeding the system, I dismount the clutch slave and turn it so I can depress the clutch rod against the pan with the bleeder open and then close it before I release tension from the pan. DO that twice and you should have decent pedal feel. After that, just pump away, any air bubbles will trickle back up through the master. The other option is a wilwood master similar to what I used in my LS1 conversion. ![]() |
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#12 |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,314
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Hey Jeff. Man the plot just keeps thickening for me. I replaced both the master and the slave and had my 71 year old father in law come over to pump the pedle 20 times and hold it down while I open the bleed screw then tell him to let off. And refill till the pressure was back. But this time there was too much preasure. I had to practically stand on it and push it all the way to the floor. And I could still barely shift as if the slave rod wasn't pushing the throwout bearing fork back far enough to fully disengage the clutch. And half way around the block I press down to shift and all of a sudden "POP"! Peddle was loose in the wind again stuck in 1st gear with emergency flashers on at 5,000 rpm's trying not to get rear ended. My first thought was I hope my throwout bearing didn,t break off again. But It never engaged far enough for a clean shift. After I got it back in the garage I looked under it and saw clutch fluid splattered underneith the car so I'm hoping just the slave exploded and not something more. I've read hear about some people having to go through numerous slave cylinders before getting one that worked right.
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#13 |
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: lone pine and mammoth lakes
Posts: 1,406
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that wilwood option might be pretty cool if its not too hard to make it fit . bet their parts work outa the box. rick you might ask jeff about it could be the solution once and for all
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#14 |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Kalamazoo MI
Posts: 1,755
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If you want to try it I have extra master and the hose if you want to try them out and see if they work?
If they do you can then buy them from me let me know if you want to try them out.
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JOHNNY P Currently own 90 ZR-1 #845 DRM 500 engine package 90 #226 Parts car Hit me up if you need anything. |
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#15 | |
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You didn't have the slave pin in the correct location on the pivot arm. It was not actuating the throwout bearing, and it finally slipped off and blew the seal out. Most people when replacing it do not get it aligned correctly. Ted probably remembers me telling Ron Jr to look at for that when he was installing it. You should be able to pull the slave apart and rebuild it and throw it back on with out any issues. |
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#16 |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,314
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After looking at it things there is no fluid leaking anywhere. And when I press the pedle down it only goes about 1 inch before it stops solid and you can't push it any further. It's still a good three inches from the floor. And the master cylinder's still full. The fluid I saw must of been all the degreaser I sprayed under there which has evaporated. So I think I'm gonna open the bleed screw and see if the peddle preasure goes down. Chime in if you guys have any suggestions.
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