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#51 |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Edmonton, Alberta or Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 2,736
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LH (Dr.) or RH (Pass.) bank?
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#52 |
![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Crystal Lake, IL
Posts: 7,180
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D/S bank.
LGAFF 92 ZR1 #234 |
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#53 |
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Washington
Posts: 956
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Nikasil liners....... if it's scratched,chipped it's a gone. You could have it re-nikasiled. Or I have 16 pistons, rings & liners with the rods. 1 set under 10k, 2nd set has 65k on them. Rod bearings are standard SBC.
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#54 |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Edmonton, Alberta or Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 2,736
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#55 | |
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Candy Apple...yUmMy
Posts: 1,137
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![]() Quote:
![]() I was just looking at the pic of your pan and it reminded me of mine.....after I unbolted the sump I found my dipstick tube seal wedged in the side of the screen......it made me laugh. ![]() ![]() |
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#56 |
![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Crystal Lake, IL
Posts: 7,180
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One of the questions I had was about #s matching engines. I have been told that there were no #s matching before, but this is not correct. I did find that the top part of the block is stamped with the prodution # in this case 5800702, or #702. I also noted that the various pieces have different production dates, the top half of the block was manufactured on 10-3-89, the lower half 10-20-89....the oil pan 8-21-89. So it appears as long as the top half of the block is correct you have a #s matching car.
I have heard from a few forum members that any type of #s matching program may have ceased in 1991. Thought people would find this interesting, by the way, even the valves have date stamps on them. LGAFF 92 ZR1 #234 Last edited by LGAFF; 10-25-2008 at 12:29 PM. |
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#57 |
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: NY State
Posts: 87
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Newbie here to LT-5 tech and I am really enjoying this thread.
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#58 |
![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Crystal Lake, IL
Posts: 7,180
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Step 1: Remove the timing chains....
Loosen Tensioner: ![]() and then unbolt the primary chain gear: ![]() Any tricks or concerns on the tensioners? The secondary/cam chain tensioners were removed prior to shipping the motor. Last edited by ZBrink; 01-26-2025 at 04:37 PM. Reason: edited for clarity |
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#59 |
![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Crystal Lake, IL
Posts: 7,180
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After the chains, will need to remove the main main bearing caps. From what I can see in order to remove the main bearing caps, the lower half of the block or the girdle will need to be removed.
Pic shows were block is in two pieces: ![]() ![]() The girdle is made of aluminum, and it looks like the steel main caps sit under the girdle in a dovetail fashion: ![]() Last edited by ZBrink; 01-26-2025 at 04:38 PM. Reason: edited for clarity |
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#60 |
![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Crystal Lake, IL
Posts: 7,180
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The girdle is held on by a series of 10mm bolts internally seen here:
![]() and I believe there are 8 external, as seen here: ![]() Almost forgot, oil pump might also have to come off.....open for feedback to those that have done this before. Thanks LGAFF 92 ZR1 #234 Last edited by LGAFF; 10-25-2008 at 08:49 PM. |
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