Anyone changed their injectors themselves?

[crazey]

How much of a pain in the *** is it? I've watched videos, and it seems pretty simple and straight forward. But how many people have done it, and from experience, is it simple or is it a pain?

Thank you

[Subfixer]

Not hard. Just have to take your time and be careful not to nick any of the o-rings.

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[Gunny]

fairly straight forward ... don't be in a hurry. search the forum ... a set of diy instructions has likely been posted. if so, it is likely an older post but relevant, nevertheless.

[tccrab]

It's a rite of passage for any and all ZR-1 owners.
It's surprisingly easy to do but depressingly easy to mess up.

Be prepared, have all the necessary tools handy, and, Take. Your. Time.
Do not get in a rush.
Take lots of pictures.
Sketch drawings of what you see as you take it apart.
Pretty sure there's YouTube videos you can and should watch before you get busy.

Be prepared to have to wait a week or two to put it back together.
Take the time to identity everything under the Plenum and get to know what each and everything does.
For some odd reason mice and rats seem to gravitate to setting up housekeeping under the plenum.
Be prepared to call Jerry's Parts if anything looks chewed or ugly.
Check every nut, bolt and fitting.
The air box bolts have a tendency to work their way loose, nows the best time to address that.
Vacuum hoses are now 30 years old.
Don't act surprised if they've gotten soft or brittle.
Test everything, especially everything associated with the secondaries actuators and all the plumbing.
If you're in a no smog state/country/county, I'd highly recommend deleting the secondaries all together. You will need a special tune if you do, Marc Haibec has the appropriate Prom.
As long as you're not in the Arctic, bypassing the throttle body coolant is a simple and cheap mod that will save your plenum and throttle body paint from blistering later on.
Clean out under the coil packs and check the block drain hole at the back. You should never actually need it because you should never get water under the Plenum, but you should be sure that its clear if you should need it.
This is also the *best* time to address the finish on the plenum and injector housings.
Marc Haibec can sell you the correct color paint, or he can arrange to port your plenum and powder coat it. To do this right you have to remove the injector housings and the cam covers too (much more difficult task, especially the passenger side). Marc isn't the only person doing this, there are a small handful of people here who can and will do this for you. Do a little research, dig through Dynomite's Solutions pages here on the forums, it's all there.

Good luck!!

Don't hesitate to post if you have any questions, or run into difficulties.

Crabs

[Z51JEFF]

If you work on your on cars you can do this. Marc Haibeck sells a DVD that goes through the process of pulling the plenum.

[crazey]

Originally Posted by tccrab

It's a rite of passage for any and all ZR-1 owners.
It's surprisingly easy to do but depressingly easy to mess up.

Be prepared, have all the necessary tools handy, and, Take. Your. Time.
Do not get in a rush.
Take lots of pictures.
Sketch drawings of what you see as you take it apart.
Pretty sure there's YouTube videos you can and should watch before you get busy.

Be prepared to have to wait a week or two to put it back together.
Take the time to identity everything under the Plenum and get to know what each and everything does.
For some odd reason mice and rats seem to gravitate to setting up housekeeping under the plenum.
Be prepared to call Jerry's Parts if anything looks chewed or ugly.
Check every nut, bolt and fitting.
The air box bolts have a tendency to work their way loose, nows the best time to address that.
Vacuum hoses are now 30 years old.
Don't act surprised if they've gotten soft or brittle.
Test everything, especially everything associated with the secondaries actuators and all the plumbing.
If you're in a no smog state/country/county, I'd highly recommend deleting the secondaries all together. You will need a special tune if you do, Marc Haibec has the appropriate Prom.
As long as you're not in the Arctic, bypassing the throttle body coolant is a simple and cheap mod that will save your plenum and throttle body paint from blistering later on.
Clean out under the coil packs and check the block drain hole at the back. You should never actually need it because you should never get water under the Plenum, but you should be sure that its clear if you should need it.
This is also the *best* time to address the finish on the plenum and injector housings.
Marc Haibec can sell you the correct color paint, or he can arrange to port your plenum and powder coat it. To do this right you have to remove the injector housings and the cam covers too (much more difficult task, especially the passenger side). Marc isn't the only person doing this, there are a small handful of people here who can and will do this for you. Do a little research, dig through Dynomite's Solutions pages here on the forums, it's all there.

Good luck!!

Don't hesitate to post if you have any questions, or run into difficulties.

Crabs

THANK YOU!!!!

And thank you everyone for the replies.

Peter

[Young1]

I learned by the master Marc himself. I bought the dvd. It?s worth it and satisfying. One must be detail oriented and focused. (Once I forgot to plug in the ignition control modules, no start, o crap)

[WARP TEN]

As usual, Crabs, Steve and others offer excellent advice. If you stumble on anything plenty of answers will appear here to help. Good luck with it. --Bob

[XfireZ51]

Whatever injectors u buy as replacements, have them flow tested first, then match pairs to make certain u have even flow to all cylinders. Don?t ASSume.

[Starman]

Not that tough of a job, great advice already on this thread. I popped for the RC injectors and have never regretted it. Do plan to replace injector and fuel rail O-Rings. Understand the large electrical connector under the ear of the plenum is retained with a (I believe) 7mm fastener, nut driver will get it from the rear.


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