Intermittent growling and harsh vibrations in neutral - Page 5 - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

1991 Corvette ZR-1 · 11-23-2021

Quote:

Originally Posted by richarde

Regarding the fitment of an aluminum flywheel and the gear rattle at idle, I have an aluminum flywheel with a Carolina Clutch kit 04-114 Stage 2, Carolina Clutch shim kit C4SHIMKIT and am using Red Line Heavy Shockproof Gear Oil. The gear noise on idle is not an issue and is perfectly acceptable, being on a par with my other '90 which has a stock DM flywheel. I must admit to being a little nervous when first installing the aluminum flywheel due to all the stories of excessive noise on idle etc. However, I am really pleased that I fitted it now as throttle response is great! Also, the clutch pedal pressure with the Carolina Clutch is nice and light with no chatter on take off.

Hi Richarde, glad you mentioned Carolina Clutch. I was looking around their site and considering just ordering a kit from them. I may give them a call and see if it is possible to just pay for a plate. Probably not, but could not hurt to ask. I think I am obsessing too much over OEM when most likely ALL of these off brand plates for the L98/LT1 are made by factory owned by Valeo. Some Google searching off the number on the plate I took off recently yielded some interesting results. It is not really a Valeo, but it is, if that makes any sense.

Edit: ordered the Carolina Clutch kit you referenced. It is what it is.

richarde · 11-23-2021

Hi - I hope that you'll be happy with it. As a comparison between the OEM clutch and DM flywheel in my Charcoal car and the aluminum flywheel and Carolina Clutch in my black car, the Carolina Clutch has a lighter clutch pedal with really good take off - no chatter. It grips fine with no evidence of slip. The C4 Shim Kit is certainly worth getting and fitting whist the gearbox is out.

1991 Corvette ZR-1 · 11-28-2021

Well anyone got a bearing puller tool or tips they can recommend that is 100% effective? I got a slide hammer kit thinking I had a good kit and it is not gripping the inside of the old bearing shell too well. I was able to fish the guts out of the trashed bearing so it is just the shell now and it is IN there. Soaked it with WD40 but did not help much trying to slide hammer it out. Local autozone and advance have loaner kits but not right sized pieces get inside the bearing.

Jagdpanzer · 11-28-2021

A lot of us have had good results pulling pilot bearings with the Harbor Freight blind hole hammer puller sku 95987
https://www.harborfreight.com/blind-...ler-95987.html

Similar tool also available on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/KUNTEC-Puller...154222&sr=8-17

1991 Corvette ZR-1 · 11-28-2021

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jagdpanzer

A lot of us have had good results pulling pilot bearings with the Harbor Freight blind hole hammer puller sku 95987
https://www.harborfreight.com/blind-...ler-95987.html

Similar tool also available on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/KUNTEC-Puller...154222&sr=8-17

Phil, that second link is the exact one I have. The adapters do not appear to have enough tooth to hook onto the back of the bearing. I have slide hammered it a good amount but the fittings eventually pop out minus the bearing. I may try a few more times before looking at other options. I have seen some actual pullers that could be promising if I can find one that will fit inside the bearing. Then I could gently extract versus the slide.

I sent my flywheel and plate out to Marc for a balance and it will not arrive there until Thursday so I guess I have some time to mess with it.

Shizap · 11-28-2021

I used this pilot bearing puller I rented from autozone. I had to file the ends to give a more secure grip and it did the job nicely.

Best of luck,
Scott

1991 Corvette ZR-1 · 11-29-2021

I got the bearing out, finally. I found an old can of PB Blaster and filled the crank end with it and let it sit for a few hours. Then it came out but not without a fight. My fears were confirmed that not even the cup plug made it untouched from the improper install and bearing failure. There is some damage but it does not look too bad. I have a fluted input bushing that I will be installing. I will never use a bearing if there is a suitable bushing available. How the bearing did not take out the input shaft tip I will never know.

1991 Corvette ZR-1 · 11-30-2021

Any of you LT5 gurus know what this indicates? I love finding stuff like this. It was hidden behind a thick wall of clutch dust I cleaned off. Looks like a 3 with a line over it.

WARP TEN · 11-30-2021

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1991 Corvette ZR-1

Any of you LT5 gurus know what this indicates? I love finding stuff like this. It was hidden behind a thick wall of clutch dust I cleaned off. Looks like a 3 with a line over it.

Or "1m" as in 1mm? Personally, no clue. --Bob

1991 Corvette ZR-1 · 12-01-2021

I installed the pilot bushing. Bill B loaned me a sweet driver / alignment tool, just a cut off ZF input shaft. And I came across something interesting. I was striving for a depth of 16mm to 17mm in from the end of the crank snout but I am right at 14mm in. The reason for this is the input shaft piece I am using for a driver will not proceed past this point.

The reduction of the inner circumference of the crank is for the bearing or bushing to snug up but too small for splined portion of the input shaft. This tells me at least the input shaft will never be this close in on the actual gearbox once everything is back together. Before it reached the face of the bearing it would be literally grinding the metal on the inside of the crank.

So I found an interesting comment made by Jerry from an old thread in 2017 that he would space both, pilot bushing, or pilot bearing, recessed 7/16" (0.437") from the end of the crank. At that location, the pilot bushing will engage the input shaft completely, providing maximum life of the bushing. Likewise, the bearing will work just as well at the same distance.

.437? works out to 11mm, thanks to a conversion calculator. As my bushing depth sits now, I am just a hair under 14mm when I checked with my Vernier caliper. I measured off the snout portion of the crank the flywheel mates to. Bill suggested 16mm, 17mm absolute maximum from flush. So, there is some wiggle room in there for depth. I do not want to push my luck with using a long socket on top and end up compromising the bushing. I think I am in a good spot with depth of the bushing. I taped off the input shaft and how far it would physically fit into the crank and the tape is a bit back compared to where the tape mark is on Jerry?s input shaft picture he provided.

11-23-2021	#42
richarde Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 68	Re: Intermittent growling and harsh vibrations in neutral Hi - I hope that you'll be happy with it. As a comparison between the OEM clutch and DM flywheel in my Charcoal car and the aluminum flywheel and Carolina Clutch in my black car, the Carolina Clutch has a lighter clutch pedal with really good take off - no chatter. It grips fine with no evidence of slip. The C4 Shim Kit is certainly worth getting and fitting whist the gearbox is out. __________________ Richard 1990, numbers 1821 and 2391 1821 - owned since Nov 2002, charcoal / Gray, Stainless headers, B&B system, 4.10's 2391 - owned since Jan 2019, Black / Black, have completed restoration. Jeal headers, Corsa system, 4.10's, Aluminum flywheel with Carolina clutch.

11-28-2021	#43
1991 Corvette ZR-1 Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Florida Posts: 305	Re: Intermittent growling and harsh vibrations in neutral Well anyone got a bearing puller tool or tips they can recommend that is 100% effective? I got a slide hammer kit thinking I had a good kit and it is not gripping the inside of the old bearing shell too well. I was able to fish the guts out of the trashed bearing so it is just the shell now and it is IN there. Soaked it with WD40 but did not help much trying to slide hammer it out. Local autozone and advance have loaner kits but not right sized pieces get inside the bearing. Last edited by 1991 Corvette ZR-1; 02-23-2024 at 10:34 PM.

11-28-2021	#44
Jagdpanzer Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Northern VA Posts: 2,646	Re: Intermittent growling and harsh vibrations in neutral A lot of us have had good results pulling pilot bearings with the Harbor Freight blind hole hammer puller sku 95987 https://www.harborfreight.com/blind-...ler-95987.html Similar tool also available on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/KUNTEC-Puller...154222&sr=8-17 __________________ Phil Wasinger 1994 Torch Red ZR-1 WAZOO Member George Braml Intake Last edited by Jagdpanzer; 11-28-2021 at 09:54 PM.

11-29-2021	#47
1991 Corvette ZR-1 Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Florida Posts: 305	Re: Intermittent growling and harsh vibrations in neutral I got the bearing out, finally. I found an old can of PB Blaster and filled the crank end with it and let it sit for a few hours. Then it came out but not without a fight. My fears were confirmed that not even the cup plug made it untouched from the improper install and bearing failure. There is some damage but it does not look too bad. I have a fluted input bushing that I will be installing. I will never use a bearing if there is a suitable bushing available. How the bearing did not take out the input shaft tip I will never know. Last edited by 1991 Corvette ZR-1; 02-23-2024 at 10:34 PM.

11-30-2021	#48
1991 Corvette ZR-1 Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Florida Posts: 305	Re: Intermittent growling and harsh vibrations in neutral Any of you LT5 gurus know what this indicates? I love finding stuff like this. It was hidden behind a thick wall of clutch dust I cleaned off. Looks like a 3 with a line over it. Last edited by 1991 Corvette ZR-1; 02-23-2024 at 10:34 PM.

12-01-2021	#50
1991 Corvette ZR-1 Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Florida Posts: 305	Jerry I found an old comment of yours helpful I installed the pilot bushing. Bill B loaned me a sweet driver / alignment tool, just a cut off ZF input shaft. And I came across something interesting. I was striving for a depth of 16mm to 17mm in from the end of the crank snout but I am right at 14mm in. The reason for this is the input shaft piece I am using for a driver will not proceed past this point. The reduction of the inner circumference of the crank is for the bearing or bushing to snug up but too small for splined portion of the input shaft. This tells me at least the input shaft will never be this close in on the actual gearbox once everything is back together. Before it reached the face of the bearing it would be literally grinding the metal on the inside of the crank. So I found an interesting comment made by Jerry from an old thread in 2017 that he would space both, pilot bushing, or pilot bearing, recessed 7/16" (0.437") from the end of the crank. At that location, the pilot bushing will engage the input shaft completely, providing maximum life of the bushing. Likewise, the bearing will work just as well at the same distance. .437? works out to 11mm, thanks to a conversion calculator. As my bushing depth sits now, I am just a hair under 14mm when I checked with my Vernier caliper. I measured off the snout portion of the crank the flywheel mates to. Bill suggested 16mm, 17mm absolute maximum from flush. So, there is some wiggle room in there for depth. I do not want to push my luck with using a long socket on top and end up compromising the bushing. I think I am in a good spot with depth of the bushing. I taped off the input shaft and how far it would physically fit into the crank and the tape is a bit back compared to where the tape mark is on Jerry?s input shaft picture he provided. Last edited by 1991 Corvette ZR-1; 02-23-2024 at 10:34 PM.