Cam Position Sensor Removal

[KJL]

Originally Posted by Matt B

Gentlemen, is THAT the crankshaft sensor?!? It's located right below the left cylinder head (driver side). Mine is leaky but it isn't round. I removed a small metal piece (like a small fender, tray, latch, whatever) that was secured with an 8mm nut.
The Sensor itself seems to be not round, there is no twisting possible. I can wiggle it, but it doesn't come out. What am I doing wrong?

Yes, that is the CAM sensor. The sensor is round with a tab to capture the bolt and aluminum shield. Once the bolt is removed, the sensor must be carefully pulled out. Twisting it gently can help. I had a bunch of stuff removed when I changed mine so access was much better. Jerry sells the replacement o-rings for these but mine was cracked as well. I sealed it with epoxy and so far so good. I also purchased a spare from Phil.

[ZR1CK]

Hello Matt, the sensor underneath the drivers side cylinder head IS the cam sensor (you referred to it as the crank sensor), is this what you're having an issue with? If so, it should be about an inch or so in length and cylindrical with 3 wires attached. It is, or should be, held in place by an aluminum brace and a metric bolt through both the brace and the sensor. I've had mine out a few times as I'm having an issue with the engine running properly and the code pointing to it. I can't imagine the sensor being anything but cylindrical because of the very snug fit into the cylinder head. I believe there are some pics in another thread, I just don't recall which one. I have a couple of pics I think I can add to this thread if you're interested. Stay in touch with this forum and you'll get more help along the way. Good luck.
Rick J

[G8nightman]

Camshaft sensor not crank


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry

[Matt B]

Thank you all for the answers. Of course I'm talking about the CAM sensor. Sorry, language issues... . Okay, than I'll carefully try to twist and pull it out. Just wanted to make sure I'm on the right page and won't break anything.
Considering how much oil is spilled I assume it's cracked as well. If so I'll fix it for now and reach out for replacement.

[Matt B]

Okay, pulled it - and it's cracked... I already dropped Phil a message. Seems that these sensors are a likely painpoint...

[KJL]

Originally Posted by Matt B

Okay, pulled it - and it's cracked... I already dropped Phil a message. Seems that these sensors are a likely painpoint...

One of many my friend.....

You should buy one from Phil but also consider attempting a repair.

[Matt B]

I'm afraid I am one of many . Phil's my first address, hope he can help me out. Repair yes, I will consider. Just wondering if I can safely use degreaser / brake cleaner to rinse off engine oil? Otherwise my bond will not cling to the mating surfaces... Not sure what's inside the sensor and I don't dare to ultimately break it.

[KJL]

Originally Posted by Matt B

I'm afraid I am one of many . Phil's my first address, hope he can help me out. Repair yes, I will consider. Just wondering if I can safely use degreaser / brake cleaner to rinse off engine oil? Otherwise my bond will not cling to the mating surfaces... Not sure what's inside the sensor and I don't dare to ultimately break it.

That is an issue. The problem is the sensor plastic case has oil inside it. No matter what I did, oil kept weeping through. I cleaned the best I could with brake cleaner and filed kind of a flat where the crack was which went up the side and half way across the top. I coated the areas with JP weld for plastic and skim coated the top....must keep it thin as the clearance between the cam and sensor is pretty tight. I then sanded it smooth and blended/contoured it the best I could. I used silicone sealant in the o-ring pocket and installed the new o-ring, blended it around the oring and let cure overnight. Installed a few days later. No issues so far but have not driven it much either.

While I am not certain, I am guessing the sensor is potted in some sort of epoxy material which is why these things continue to work even when full of oil. I think most of them are cracked, it is just when that crack makes it into the oring groove, it begins to leak and possibly past the wire entry point.

[rkreigh]

with the temp swings and oil batch jb weld might not last very long.


You would have to plastic weld that sensor case and it's that crappy hard plastic gm uses that is prone to cracking.


put the new one in and be done with it.

[Matt B]

Right, I ordered mine from Phil. Will keep the original one in my treasure chest