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#1 |
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Nanaimo BC
Posts: 61
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Hi, my 1990 has what a GM service technician called a flare. He drove the car up a slight hill in fourth gear at about 1200rpm and applied moderate gas. The clutch seemed to slip a little and the rpm increased a couple hundred rpm as the car got up to speed and then held fine. This is unusual as the clutch works great in all other conditions including extreme acceleration from a standing start.
My question is; does the entire clutch need to be replaced, meaning flywheel, disk and pressure plate, or just, say, the disk etc? Any help would be appreciated. |
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#2 |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Maumee, OH
Posts: 19
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Sounds like the clutch needs to be replaced. Knowing how many miles are on the car, and hard its been driven might be helpful but may not make any difference. I believe these are hydraulic throwout bearings, so probably no adjustment possible there.
If it were my car I would replace the clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing as a unit, as i believe most would recommend. Flywheel, if not scored, could just be resurfaced. Some may advocate replacing the flywheel with a high performance unit while your doing the clutch. No big advantage to this unless you're looking to ring every bit of power out of the car you can. |
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#3 |
![]() Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Wayne Illinois
Posts: 400
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The only work that should be done to the flywheel is a mild application of scotchbright pads. You do NOT want to "resurface" a dual mass flywheel.
The little shavings can easily get into the working parts of the flywheel and then it is a boat anchor. About 18 months ago I was going to Mark's to swap my clutch. The flywheel had been "resurfaced" and there were chips in the mechanism, which was evident by turning the wheel & hearing the grinding of little chips. Mark said this was common in flywheels that had been machined. I had 2 flywheels that were bad for this reason. I ended up using an old rusty flywheel from a friend (thanks Paul!). It cleaned up nicely with a little scotchbright.
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] 91-#1935 Black/black & gray, Haibeck 500 Cams by Pete |
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#4 |
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Nanaimo BC
Posts: 61
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If the flywheel is ok and just needs a little scotch brite, then only the other components could be replaced? Any opinions on this set up?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/l.../submodel/zr-1 |
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#5 |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Maumee, OH
Posts: 19
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By"resurfacing" I didn't necessarily mean turning it. But I would definitely check the flywheel for warpage with a dial indicator.
I have no experience with Summit's clutch kit offering. |
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#6 | |
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Sparks, NV
Posts: 2,843
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![]() Quote:
Best article on the subject by Mark Haibeck http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20W...0in%202019.pdf H ![]() |
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#7 |
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Nanaimo BC
Posts: 61
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Thanks! That article is exactly the information I’m looking for.
How does one determine the difference between needing just a new friction disk and needing a new flywheel and pressure plate too? |
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#8 |
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: owens valley
Posts: 25
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I would consult Bill Boudreau on your clutch / flywheel to pen . I believe he knows someone who can resurface the flywheel and can share what problems you may rein into buying a aftermarket . He deals with this on a daily basis his ph 602 319 6575 he is also known as zf doc
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#9 | |
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Sparks, NV
Posts: 2,843
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![]() Quote:
Dittos on www.ZFDoc.com Bill Boudreau. H ![]() Last edited by Ccmano; 02-17-2020 at 11:18 AM. |
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#10 |
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Nanaimo BC
Posts: 61
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Awesome. Thanks for all the info. I guess I’ll know more once I actually remove it.
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