Bought One

[Tripler]

Congrats on the car . Like the others have mentioned , you will get lots of help with any issues on your new beast right here on this forum .
Again Congrats


Mike

[Jim Stanley]

After taking my 90 to a couple of local shops, I finally shipped it to Marc Haibeck, ZR-1 Specialist, bear Chicago. The shipping cost pales in comparison to the money you will spend at other well meaning but inexperienced shops. I had many of your issues and he quickly and fixed them at reasonable rates. When you get it back, all you have to do is drive it!


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[abull1499]

So, had a "no start" last night. I read a lot on the forums and it looks like the best next step is clutch/starter relay. The VATS was not an issue as the security light was not flashing while I had the key in start position.

Here was series of events yesterday:

1. Started car up 3 times without going more than a few feet (showing it off to neighbors). No issues there.

2. Washed the car.

3. Fired it up to go out to dinner 1.5 miles away. No issues. Came out 1 hour later. No start, no click, not cranking, and all lights working and on. No security light flashing while in start position. Battery is only 10 months old.

4. Jump started the car with jumper cables. Fired up no problem.

My question is, if it was the starter switch/clutch switch, would the car still have started with a jump start?

Sending the car to Haibeck in a few weeks, but wanted everyone's thoughts.

Andrew

[Karl]

Check to make sure the floor mat does not roll up and block the clutch pedal. That happened to me when I got my first Z.

[abull1499]

Yeah, I did check that. Everything was as it should be. Plus, it started right up after I put cables on the battery and jumped it.

[SBAquaLT5]

You are on the right path.. Unless your clutch switch is intermittent, it would not have made a difference to jump.(been there) If you can go in the garage and turn the car on right now it's very unlikely the switch.



Lights didn't dim when you tried to crank it?

Something might be getting heat soaked... You could start it, drive it around and get it warm, then park it again and try again in an hour.


Also, some lead acid batteries that I have purchased recently don't seem to last as long. Manufacturing has changed.

[TX '90 ZR1]

I know you wouldn't think the battery could be bad, but start at the source.
Do a load test on the battery. Replace if under spec.
Clean battery terminals. Pay special attention to the terminal bolts. Take them out of the rubber insulator and give them a good cleaning, or better yet, replace them with new if they show any corrosion. Be sure and clean the contact areas inside the insulator too.
These cars are very finicky about low voltage/amperage.
I think if you were able to boost start the car, the above should rectify the issue.

[Karl]

If it is the battery get an AGM style battery. Unless you want to stay original for ncrs it is an easy upgrade.

[Paul Workman]

When the clutch safety switch OR the starter solenoid contacts begin to fail, they're first intermittent. Both of these and info on some additional items can be found on Marc Haibeck's ZR-1 Specialists web site under the "No Start" heading. There Marc lists a number of easy tests that can be done to identify "zsckly" what is up!

[lfalzarano]

In a no start condition, jumper cables don’t work from my experience. What is the CCA of 10 month old battery?


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