TB removal and then some!!!

[Dynomite]

A couple of hints

1. Make sure you have the Haibeck Chip which turns both fans on a 205 deg F and off at 200 deg F. A Stock 95 fans function as follows without the modified chip.

'93 - '95 Primary on at 222 degs. F, off at 212. Secondary on at 230 degs. F, off at 221.
'95 ZR-1 has three fan relays which is different than the earlier years. On the '95 both fans are turned on at half speed at 222 degs. Both fans go on at full speed at 230 degs.

2. Installing the Fluidyne Radiator.
Blocking TB Coolant, Fluidyne Radiator and Thermostats

3. On HOT days keep the rpm above 2,000 rpm to assure your water pump flow is at least 44 gpm Water Pump, Coolant Temperatures, and Coolant

4. I do NOT drill holes in Thermostats.

A 1/8 inch diameter hole in the flange will offer additional flow area of .0123 square inches. Which one such hole will increase the total flow area by .016 or 1.6% (three 1/8 inch diameter holes would increase the flow area by 4.7%). This thinking does not address the change in coefficient of Discharge of such small holes.

Now compared to the normal aging of the thermostat of 15% over several years of use one would be much better off installing a NEW Stant Thermostat gaining 15% flow area as compared to drilling three 1/8 inch holes in an older Stant Thermostat only gaining 4.7% flow area.

Given the LT5 runs Hotter idling at a stop sign than at 2,000 rpm as cited in Item #3 above a much better focus regarding engine Heating would be engine RPM (which relates directly to pressure on the coolant flow through the Stant Thermostat) and not the Stant Thermostat (Old or New).

See item #7 The 180 deg versus the 160 deg thermostat or no thermostat