Looks like I'm back!

[Ccmano]

Fp2 by itself (fp1 fuse pulled) does 3.3amps and 49#. Still not sure if that by itself would cause the secondary issue.
H

[Ami Workman]

Welcome back Hans! 😊

Sent from my SM-J727V using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by Ccmano

Fp2 by itself (fp1 fuse pulled) does 3.3amps and 49#. Still not sure if that by itself would cause the secondary issue.
H

Well, you'll have to tell us if 3.3 is good or not. It's NOT, according to typically what is OK. Nominal current draw is closer to 5 amperes (4, depending on the manufacturer) Below 4 is abnormal (and 3.3 qualifies as significantly low).

The question becomes: what will the pressure be when driving; when at WOT in particular? Normally-

-driving w/o secondary pump called for ~ 44-45 ± a pound or so.

-WOT w/ both pumps running, pressure should be in the 53 ± a pound or so.

This 3.3A thing may be a separate issue. But, it isn't right, and it raises the question of how it actually performs under LOAD. It deserves to be eliminated from the equation before analyzing further, IMO.

Setup for a dynamic fuel pressure test...

[Ccmano]

Paul,

Since the combination of the two pumps netted 7amps. FP2 got us 3.3amps. Theoretically then FP1 draws about 3.7amps. Also low.

I simply ordered two new pumps from Rock Auto, they should be here midweek. Not worth the effort when we know what we do and the mileage on the car.

We will see how that works out.
H

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by Ccmano

Paul,

Since the combination of the two pumps netted 7amps. FP2 got us 3.3amps. Theoretically then FP1 draws about 3.7amps. Also low.

I simply ordered two new pumps from Rock Auto, they should be here midweek. Not worth the effort when we know what we do and the mileage on the car.

We will see how that works out.
H

No problem! Agree totally: Just crossing the "T's" and dotting the "I's" - as much for any newcomers that might be lurking and having questions.

FWIW, my in-line fuel filter was choked with crud at the 38k mark. Static fuel pressure test showed normal pressure, but when the pumps had to deliver volume AND pressure - pressure dropped to under 40# at WOT. New filter and all working, pressure was now "in the green" (near 55# according to the FSM).

P.S.
And, if anyone is wondering where I got the braided extension for my fuel pressure gauge (in the photo), I got it at Harbor Freight.

[JThomas]

Glad to have you back, and like you, I am rescuing a car as well. Hope to meet up at a Gathering soon.

[Ccmano]

Paul your the man!

Secondary issue resolved! Took her out with the accordion piece removed to check if that was an issue and to check for codes. Well... she runs like a top! Secondaries kick in strong with no codes. Looks like the intake accordion was collapsing in a major way.

Paul... you were on the money. I will go ahead and replace the fuel pumps anyway since they tested mariginal.

For a 180k car, she runs like a a Z should. Pulls strong right up to 7plus k rpm. I continue to be impressed.
H

[GOLDCYLON]

Originally Posted by Ccmano

Hello all... some of you may remember me from a few years ago especially my old buds in Chicago! Dom, Lee, Pete, Paul, Jeff and so many more. I sold my black 1990 ZR-1 back in 2012. Boy did I miss that car. Especially after all the work I put into it and how fantastic it ran. I've owned 2 C6's since, currently have an 08 Z51 car that is great... but it lacks the soul that only an LT5 motor can produce.

I recently retired (the third time), but this time fully, and moved from Southern California to Reno NV. Good riddance California!

Today I bought another 1990 ZR-1. This one, much like the last one, will be a bit of a project. I consider it saving a car that might otherwise have been parted out. It's 1990 #1461. A one owner car originally from California. Red with a black interior and glass roof. Overall condition is excellent, apparently garaged most of its life and the paint condition is great. The interior has held up well but shows wear. Carpets will have to be replaced and the dash is a bit warped. Supposedly, major work was done by the dealer replacing the cylinder heads?, injectors, alternator, ac compressor, differential, clutch, tires, brakes and more all since 2015. The engine work looks like it was generally well done with most of the hoses, rubber pieces and ignition wires also replaced. The only exception is that the secondaries don't work although there does not appear to be a vacuum leak. Looks like the plenum is coming off. It idles smoothly and otherwise runs well and has already passed smog.

In general the car looks great! Here's the kicker (as an old friend used to say) it has 180,000 miles on the clock! But then I only paid $6800 for it.

Needless to say I'm anxious to get a closer look at everything, get the secondaries working and starting the process on getting to old girl sorted out. Having spent time with Mark Haibeck during my Chicago days, I have seen bare blocks with over 200k miles that show little if any cylinder bore and ring wear. Considering the car is bone stock, I'm hopeful I can get a few more years out of it before a rebuild.

I'll post some pix in the next few days. Let the adventure begin

Welcome back

[bdw18_123]

Originally Posted by Ccmano

Today I bought another 1990 ZR-1.
...
In general the car looks great! Here's the kicker (as an old friend used to say) it has 180,000 miles on the clock! But then I only paid $6800 for it.

Interesting, that price is exactly what I paid for my white 1990 ZR-1 I used to have. Mine had 139K on the clock at the time, but yours is in MUCH nicer condition than mine was. Mine was a wreck (LT5 front end was in pieces) compared to that one, you got a really good deal!

Will be interesting to see how many more miles you can get out of that LT5.