TB removal and then some!!!

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

Craig,

My interest in better cooling was due to use of AC in hot weather traffic. Otherwise not much issue. Plus, w ~550chp, the motor is generating more heat than a stock motor. I would simply install a stock thermo w the Fluidyne. Should be fine.

Thanks for your input. I’ll do some touring this winter, but last summer I had high temps too. Never changed coolant yet in this 95 so time to service and figured the Fluidyne would give me the extra cooling I needed. I guess I can always drill the two 1/8” holes later if needed. My motor is stock other than I’ll install the ported top end and install the headers in next spring. Thanks again.

[A26B]

I've found drilling 1~ 2 holes is generally adequate & helps greatly with overheating in the south & southwest. I've recommended drilling 1~ 2 holes to a lot of customers having cooling problems, but AFTER they follow the process to insure the cooling system is in ideal condition first.

I agree completely with XfireZ51, regarding fan cal & closed loop learn range.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by A26B

I've found drilling 1~ 2 holes is generally adequate & helps greatly with overheating in the south & southwest. I've recommended drilling 1~ 2 holes to a lot of customers having cooling problems, but AFTER they follow the process to insure the cooling system is in ideal condition first.

I agree completely with XfireZ51, regarding fan cal & closed loop learn range.

Hey Jerry,

Is your recommendation for folks with stock radiator or any radiator? I have only had stock and assumed the Fluidyne would provide better cooling over stock.

Thanks!

[A26B]

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

Hey Jerry,

Is your recommendation for folks with stock radiator or any radiator? I have only had stock and assumed the Fluidyne would provide better cooling over stock.

Thanks!

Hi Craig,
I have no personal experience with the Fluidyne radiator and have never read anything negative about it.

I think for the majority of ZR-1 drivers doing street duty, it would be better than the Ron Davis radiator. The Ron Davis unit is an excellent radiator, designed and built for racing at high speed. Bear in mind, the ZR-1 radiator is 3rd in line for cool air, behind the AC condenser & Oil Cooler, which have the potential to heat up the incoming air, but always impede the air flow to the radiator. Add to the restriction in front of the radiator, 5 cores of a Ron Davis & you have significant air flow restriction.

As mentioned above, the Ron Davis radiator is made for racing.... no AC condenser or oil cooler in front, so all that high speed incoming air gets used through the 5 cores.

As a matter of economics, if you have the OE radiator, it's clean,in good condition and you are having overheating problems, try 1 hole in the thermostat, or 2 at the most & see how it works for you. A little sweat equity but no real cost.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by A26B

Hi Craig,
I have no personal experience with the Fluidyne radiator and have never read anything negative about it.

I think for the majority of ZR-1 drivers doing street duty, it would be better than the Ron Davis radiator. The Ron Davis unit is an excellent radiator, designed and built for racing at high speed. Bear in mind, the ZR-1 radiator is 3rd in line for cool air, behind the AC condenser & Oil Cooler, which have the potential to heat up the incoming air, but always impede the air flow to the radiator. Add to the restriction in front of the radiator, 5 cores of a Ron Davis & you have significant air flow restriction.

As mentioned above, the Ron Davis radiator is made for racing.... no AC condenser or oil cooler in front, so all that high speed incoming air gets used through the 5 cores.

As a matter of economics, if you have the OE radiator, it's clean,in good condition and you are having overheating problems, try 1 hole in the thermostat, or 2 at the most & see how it works for you. A little sweat equity but no real cost.

Hi Jerry,

Thanks for the feedback and reply. I have been on the move since I acquired 95 #228 so I have not had a chance to service and check cooling system, but got the Fluidyne for trade of couple wheels so I might as well install it. I bought the silicone hoses and clamps from you last year and I have a couple OEM thermostats laying around. The challenge is finding the green coolant for our cars around here. I think a fellow Z owner damaged his LT5 from Toyota red coolant. I remember you sent me the diagram photo of where to drill the holes should I decide to do so. Thanks again for the sound advice as usual. Well, gotta go and install the RaceDeck flooring I bought from Mom!

Craig

[Dynomite]

A couple of hints

1. Make sure you have the Haibeck Chip which turns both fans on a 205 deg F and off at 200 deg F. A Stock 95 fans function as follows without the modified chip.

'93 - '95 Primary on at 222 degs. F, off at 212. Secondary on at 230 degs. F, off at 221.
'95 ZR-1 has three fan relays which is different than the earlier years. On the '95 both fans are turned on at half speed at 222 degs. Both fans go on at full speed at 230 degs.

2. Installing the Fluidyne Radiator.
Blocking TB Coolant, Fluidyne Radiator and Thermostats

3. On HOT days keep the rpm above 2,000 rpm to assure your water pump flow is at least 44 gpm Water Pump, Coolant Temperatures, and Coolant

4. I do NOT drill holes in Thermostats.

A 1/8 inch diameter hole in the flange will offer additional flow area of .0123 square inches. Which one such hole will increase the total flow area by .016 or 1.6% (three 1/8 inch diameter holes would increase the flow area by 4.7%). This thinking does not address the change in coefficient of Discharge of such small holes.

Now compared to the normal aging of the thermostat of 15% over several years of use one would be much better off installing a NEW Stant Thermostat gaining 15% flow area as compared to drilling three 1/8 inch holes in an older Stant Thermostat only gaining 4.7% flow area.

Given the LT5 runs Hotter idling at a stop sign than at 2,000 rpm as cited in Item #3 above a much better focus regarding engine Heating would be engine RPM (which relates directly to pressure on the coolant flow through the Stant Thermostat) and not the Stant Thermostat (Old or New).

See item #7 The 180 deg versus the 160 deg thermostat or no thermostat

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

A couple of hints

1. Make sure you have the Haibeck Chip which turns both fans on a 205 deg F and off at 200 deg F. A Stock 95 fans function as follows without the modified chip.

'93 - '95 Primary on at 222 degs. F, off at 212. Secondary on at 230 degs. F, off at 221.
'95 ZR-1 has three fan relays which is different than the earlier years. On the '95 both fans are turned on at half speed at 222 degs. Both fans go on at full speed at 230 degs.

2. Installing the Fluidyne Radiator.
Blocking TB Coolant, Fluidyne Radiator and Thermostats

3. On HOT days keep the rpm above 2,000 rpm to assure your water pump flow is at least 44 gpm Water Pump, Coolant Temperatures, and Coolant

Thanks for the reminder and tips/tricks Cliff! I have not decided if I will bypass TB with this method or not, but it was sweet on the 90 to remove the plenum dry in minutes.

[XfireZ51]

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

Thanks for the reminder and tips/tricks Cliff! I have not decided if I will bypass TB with this method or not, but it was sweet on the 90 to remove the plenum dry in minutes.

Craig,

Yes forgot to add thise details. My TB is blocked as are the IH passages.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

Craig,

Yes forgot to add thise details. My TB is blocked as are the IH passages.

Thanks Dom! I had an additional set of plenum and IHs ported so I might consider doing the IH block while I’m doing the install.

[Dynomite]

I am with Marty and I have LT5 secrets I explore in public for sanity checks and I welcome ALL Comments
I have been called an Engineer....sometimes......


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