Brainstorming future brake upgrade

[POWERBRAKEBOB]

Oh. I felt I was being kicked to the ground here. For reference, Mr. Hal Baer's first "brake invention' was machining a bracket to adapt the 2 piston 1989 Calipers to a Camaro. Mr. William Wood bought out JFZ's 4 piston copy of a 66 Mustang Kelsey caliper for his product. Neither gentleman can design or build a system to APPLY their own calipers. Neither casts their own rotors. Their answer when you have low vacuum is to remove the brake booster, and go manual master. Oddly enough, NO American, Japanese, or German car has come with manual brakes in 44 years.
PRESSURE is what applies the pads against the rotors. When brakes overheat, it is because the pressure is TOO LOW.
It's like when a rope is sliding thru your hand. It's going to burn until you SQUEEZE it hard enough to stop the slippage. Same on a rotor. If the rotor keeps spinning while you are applying pressure, it will burn the pads until you SQUEEZE it hard enough to stop t.
The entire purpose of disc brakes is that they DO NOT lock. The cars with drum brakes had full hub caps covering the wheels. The drums locked, and you stopped. Drums lock at 600psi. Discs need over 1600psi to lock.
Disc brake wheels are made with cooling holes, which is the reason now for all the fancy wheels. Air.
This whole idea of pads "gassing" is going the wrong direction.
Pads evaporate, or gas, when over 800 degrees. This is also the point of rotors glowing red hot. No good. Air brake trucks with runaway brakes? Lining over 600 degrees. No friction.
Drilling holes in rotors to vent this gassing, and still red hot will crack cast iron. Not a secret. With high pressure, you stop in half the distance, and THAT is how to reduce rotor heat. I proved on a road race Viper. He ordered Baer's 6 piston calipers and a Hydroboost at the same time. Baer took 6 months to deliver. I shipped the Hydroboost, and he went racing, and WON! He was thrilled. He could DRIVE in the corner, touch the brakes, and back on the power, while the "manual" brake cars had to bend the pedal way ahead of the turns, heating the rotors.
The photo I attached with the blown 468 Chevelle is a case in point. It retains the stock GM brakes below, and stops on a dime with just the addition of the Hydroboost. NO rotor heat. It just stops, now. On my own car, I actually have to PUT some heat in the pads. The Hydroboost runs off of the p/s pump, so vacuum is never involved. It can deliver up to 2000psi at idle pump speed. No vacuum booster can do that. Turbo Buicks can spool up 22lbs of boost in the motor without Redlighting using a Hydroboost. Stock, they push thru the lights at 2psi.
I have been building high pressure brake boosters for the handicapped, motorhomes, overloaded trucks, Rose Parade floats, the military, race cars, and the utility companies at the same time, for more than 40 years. Never pulled the wheels off the handicapped vans. Quadrapalegics. Using only the weight of their hand on a hand control can stop a 6000lb van.
I met a ZR-1 owner about 12 years ago, who had installed twin calipers on the front of his car. Looked nice. He had to pump the pedal 3 times at every stop, as the volume of the 7/8" master couldn't fill all the pistons.
The "Big brake" companies tell you that their 6 piston caliper is the answer, but out the other side of their mouth, they say that they retained the same piston "area" as stock, so as NOT to change the master. They couldn't provide the rest of a "Performance" system.
What did they gain? About $4000 of their customers money.
Both Baer and Wilwood will tell you, that they are NOT in the "brake apply" business. Ask them. No warranties. They do not know how to apply their own systems. I AM the only Bosch power brake distributor in the U.S. because Bosch felt that I AM qualified to design systems.
They did not offer same to Baer or Wilwood.