Alternator Problems

[scottfab]

I had forgotten that I did not use all the parts in the kit.
Did not use the regulator nor diodes.
The life of such components is measured in 100s of years.
There are those that maintain a "quality" rebuild requires such
be replaced. I don't. Proof so far is that my alternator is still working
after a decade.

As far as the bearings go? Well a decade is not bad for a package that
has more than one language on it. Oh well, you mileage may vary.
Just make sure to inspect them (spin them) before installing no matter
what supposed quality you think you're buying.

It's really not hard to fix these alternators.

[bldavis11]

Originally Posted by scottfab

I had forgotten that I did not use all the parts in the kit.
Did not use the regulator nor diodes.
The life of such components is measured in 100s of years.
There are those that maintain a "quality" rebuild requires such
be replaced. I don't. Proof so far is that my alternator is still working
after a decade.

As far as the bearings go? Well a decade is not bad for a package that
has more than one language on it. Oh well, you mileage may vary.
Just make sure to inspect them (spin them) before installing no matter
what supposed quality you think you're buying.

It's really not hard to fix these alternators.

I know at a minimum the bearings are shot. I'm a victim of my own bad judgement. When replacing the fuel injectors a year ago, I had the alternator rebuilt since it's totally stock, was acting kind of weak (lights would dim at idle), and it was easy to get to. After putting everything back together, it doesn't charge the battery now.

I've since moved to a new state and started a new job. In the mean time the Z has just sat. Now I have time to get things right, and the alternator is back out of the car.

None of the local shops around here rebuilds alternators, nor do they know anyone who does. They all just purchase new ones. After taking the alternator down to the parts store for a free test on their bench, I know a minimum the bearings are bad (squealed loudly!). They gave me a print out of a bunch of numbers, but I don't know how to interpret them. Given that, I figured I would take it apart and start replacing things. Sounds silly, but that's what I'm left with.

[scottfab]

Originally Posted by bldavis11

I know at a minimum the bearings are shot. I'm a victim of my own bad judgement. When replacing the fuel injectors a year ago, I had the alternator rebuilt since it's totally stock, was acting kind of weak (lights would dim at idle),

Judgement was not so bad. Their execution was. Lights dimming can also be a sign of a bad battery or faulty ground. (the latter being very hazardous to the car electronics.)

Originally Posted by bldavis11

and it was easy to get to. After putting everything back together, it doesn't charge the battery now.

I've since moved to a new state and started a new job. In the mean time the Z has just sat. Now I have time to get things right, and the alternator is back out of the car.

None of the local shops around here rebuilds alternators, nor do they know anyone who does. They all just purchase new ones. After taking the alternator down to the parts store for a free test on their bench, I know a minimum the bearings are bad (squealed loudly!).

The rear bearing is what failed on mine. Nothing else was bad but I replaced the brushes while in there and etc.

Originally Posted by bldavis11

They gave me a print out of a bunch of numbers, but I don't know how to interpret them. Given that, I figured I would take it apart and start replacing things. Sounds silly, but that's what I'm left with.

Go for it. With the videos given and the link to the ZR-1 page you should be fine. As you may know our Alternator has a higher current output than the standard Alternator of the period. ALSO it has a mounting hole on the back shell that other alternators do not have. Keep your original alt. They are not easily found and when you do you may get one WITHOUT the mounting hole !!!