GB: DRM Coilovers - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

mgg · 01-06-2013

Well. I know it has been awhile since this all got started but I was able get all of the coilovers mounted on saturday. Now I have to say that there are some challenges taking out the front spring and I am glad it is done. Something I would not look forward to doing again. One thing many might find interesting. I had removed the front spring once before to install the poly shims that are available through Mid America/ Ecklers along with the lowering bolts. The poor mans suspension adjustment setup. When I removed the front spring this time, I had found that the poly lowering wedges were absolutely destroyed. There was nothing left. That is after about 1500 miles of pretty easy driving. So in other words, that stuff is JUNK. The coilovers are on and this morning spent some time adjust the front ride height. Getting close. I'm burnt out now so the rear will have to wait for a day or two. The service ride control light is now on so I will also have to look into that. When I am finished, I plan on putting together some do'd and don'ts for the this coilover install and hopefully it will make anyone who wants to do this conversion aware of certain issues that can be avoided for an easier install. Thanks for everyones help on the forum who responded to my many questions. Pictures will follow one day.

secondchance · 01-06-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by mgg

Well. I know it has been awhile since this all got started but I was able get all of the coilovers mounted on saturday. Now I have to say that there are some challenges taking out the front spring and I am glad it is done. Something I would not look forward to doing again. One thing many might find interesting. I had removed the front spring once before to install the poly shims that are available through Mid America/ Ecklers along with the lowering bolts. The poor mans suspension adjustment setup. When I removed the front spring this time, I had found that the poly lowering wedges were absolutely destroyed. There was nothing left. That is after about 1500 miles of pretty easy driving. So in other words, that stuff is JUNK. The coilovers are on and this morning spent some time adjust the front ride height. Getting close. I'm burnt out now so the rear will have to wait for a day or two. The service ride control light is now on so I will also have to look into that. When I am finished, I plan on putting together some do'd and don'ts for the this coilover install and hopefully it will make anyone who wants to do this conversion aware of certain issues that can be avoided for an easier install. Thanks for everyones help on the forum who responded to my many questions. Pictures will follow one day.

Good job and congratulations!!! I am sure you feel jubillant that it's done and over with.

HAWAIIZR-1 · 01-06-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by mgg

Well. I know it has been awhile since this all got started but I was able get all of the coilovers mounted on saturday. Now I have to say that there are some challenges taking out the front spring and I am glad it is done. Something I would not look forward to doing again. One thing many might find interesting. I had removed the front spring once before to install the poly shims that are available through Mid America/ Ecklers along with the lowering bolts. The poor mans suspension adjustment setup. When I removed the front spring this time, I had found that the poly lowering wedges were absolutely destroyed. There was nothing left. That is after about 1500 miles of pretty easy driving. So in other words, that stuff is JUNK. The coilovers are on and this morning spent some time adjust the front ride height. Getting close. I'm burnt out now so the rear will have to wait for a day or two. The service ride control light is now on so I will also have to look into that. When I am finished, I plan on putting together some do'd and don'ts for the this coilover install and hopefully it will make anyone who wants to do this conversion aware of certain issues that can be avoided for an easier install. Thanks for everyones help on the forum who responded to my many questions. Pictures will follow one day.

Good to hearing things are heading in a positive direction. I'm glad I never tried to install the wedge/bolts to lower.

What are your and the group's thought about non FX3 if going coilovers and just get rid of the FX3?

I don't know if any installation benefit or just avoiding future problems and cost.

Thanks for sharing.

Craig

secondchance · 01-06-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

Good to hearing things are heading in a positive direction. I'm glad I never tried to install the wedge/bolts to lower.

What are your and the group's thought about non FX3 if going coilovers and just get rid of the FX3?

I don't know if any installation benefit or just avoiding future problems and cost.

Thanks for sharing.

Craig

Craig,

I am seriously thinking about going coil-over come spring. I intend to keep FX3, if anything, to keep the SRC switch working.
If I elect to discard the system later that can be done regardless.
In 18 years of ZR-1s, 1991-1996 and 2000-2013, FX3 functioned 98% of the time without any issues. So, why discard it?

ZZZZZR1 · 01-06-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

Good to hearing things are heading in a positive direction. I'm glad I never tried to install the wedge/bolts to lower.

What are your and the group's thought about non FX3 if going coilovers and just get rid of the FX3?

I don't know if any installation benefit or just avoiding future problems and cost.

Thanks for sharing.

Craig

Craig,

Keep FX3 definetly! Keep your ride quality.

I've driven another Z with Morocco shocks and make the car even "tighter".... (though expensive)

David

GOLDCYLON · 01-06-2013

Keep the FX-3 works great with it

mgg · 01-06-2013

I would have to agree with the others who suggested retaining FX3. As long as the car is going to be street driven I would stay with this setup. I do suggest that you carefully think about what spring rates you want to run though. If the car is street driven I would go no higher than 425 front & 300 rear MAX. Randy talked me into 250 rear and I think that will be a good choice. YOu might even consider less if it is a later model car whoose springs were a tad softer than the early. NOthing would be more disapointing that being unhappy with too stiff of springs. So far in my short amount of driving ( just settling ride height) the car feels great. I hope my resolution to FX3 problem is quick as I have never had this issue before the install. I have to say that the squirly side of me justs LOVES the stance of the front now. It looks serious. Now I need to spend the same amount of time on the rear and then off to the alignment shop. Its funny I don't know if I am more happy or releived that this is done. It does give one a good sense of accomplishment though. I very lucky to have some good friends who really helped me out.

HAWAIIZR-1 · 02-08-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by mgg

I would have to agree with the others who suggested retaining FX3. As long as the car is going to be street driven I would stay with this setup. I do suggest that you carefully think about what spring rates you want to run though. If the car is street driven I would go no higher than 425 front & 300 rear MAX. Randy talked me into 250 rear and I think that will be a good choice. YOu might even consider less if it is a later model car whoose springs were a tad softer than the early. NOthing would be more disapointing that being unhappy with too stiff of springs. So far in my short amount of driving ( just settling ride height) the car feels great. I hope my resolution to FX3 problem is quick as I have never had this issue before the install. I have to say that the squirly side of me justs LOVES the stance of the front now. It looks serious. Now I need to spend the same amount of time on the rear and then off to the alignment shop. Its funny I don't know if I am more happy or releived that this is done. It does give one a good sense of accomplishment though. I very lucky to have some good friends who really helped me out.

Mike,

Your setup looks great with the photo that Bob posted and that is kind of what I am after in terms of looks, ride, and handling. My setup came in the last week, but I was out of country and finally looked at them today. I got the whole deal with trailing arm and camber brackets; everything looks great and well packed for shipment. The front rates are 425 and the rear 250 so Randy felt the same based on what I was looking for. Here are his thoughts: 300 too stiff, 275 right on, 250 a tick softer than the 275. I'm waiting on Carter brackets and in the meanwhile I need to figure out how I will have the shocks grooved. Thanks for sharing your info and experience with this setup.

Craig

GOLDCYLON · 02-08-2013

Craig I wholeheartedly agree.

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread....ight=coilovers

As you can see above I went with the hypercoil 425/275 spring rate as well which is the right rate for our car. Any stiffer on the back end and you will feel like you are riding on a buckboard

After the install im sure your impression will be the same as mine that this was the way the car should have been setup from the factory. In turns she will ride like on a rail.

01-06-2013	#1
mgg Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Hamilton, Va. Posts: 113	Re: GB: DRM Coilovers Well. I know it has been awhile since this all got started but I was able get all of the coilovers mounted on saturday. Now I have to say that there are some challenges taking out the front spring and I am glad it is done. Something I would not look forward to doing again. One thing many might find interesting. I had removed the front spring once before to install the poly shims that are available through Mid America/ Ecklers along with the lowering bolts. The poor mans suspension adjustment setup. When I removed the front spring this time, I had found that the poly lowering wedges were absolutely destroyed. There was nothing left. That is after about 1500 miles of pretty easy driving. So in other words, that stuff is JUNK. The coilovers are on and this morning spent some time adjust the front ride height. Getting close. I'm burnt out now so the rear will have to wait for a day or two. The service ride control light is now on so I will also have to look into that. When I am finished, I plan on putting together some do'd and don'ts for the this coilover install and hopefully it will make anyone who wants to do this conversion aware of certain issues that can be avoided for an easier install. Thanks for everyones help on the forum who responded to my many questions. Pictures will follow one day.

01-06-2013	#6
GOLDCYLON Join Date: May 2007 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 9,117	Re: GB: DRM Coilovers Keep the FX-3 works great with it __________________ GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V

01-06-2013	#7
mgg Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Hamilton, Va. Posts: 113	Re: GB: DRM Coilovers I would have to agree with the others who suggested retaining FX3. As long as the car is going to be street driven I would stay with this setup. I do suggest that you carefully think about what spring rates you want to run though. If the car is street driven I would go no higher than 425 front & 300 rear MAX. Randy talked me into 250 rear and I think that will be a good choice. YOu might even consider less if it is a later model car whoose springs were a tad softer than the early. NOthing would be more disapointing that being unhappy with too stiff of springs. So far in my short amount of driving ( just settling ride height) the car feels great. I hope my resolution to FX3 problem is quick as I have never had this issue before the install. I have to say that the squirly side of me justs LOVES the stance of the front now. It looks serious. Now I need to spend the same amount of time on the rear and then off to the alignment shop. Its funny I don't know if I am more happy or releived that this is done. It does give one a good sense of accomplishment though. I very lucky to have some good friends who really helped me out.

02-08-2013	#9
GOLDCYLON Join Date: May 2007 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 9,117	Re: GB: DRM Coilovers Craig I wholeheartedly agree. http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread....ight=coilovers As you can see above I went with the hypercoil 425/275 spring rate as well which is the right rate for our car. Any stiffer on the back end and you will feel like you are riding on a buckboard After the install im sure your impression will be the same as mine that this was the way the car should have been setup from the factory. In turns she will ride like on a rail. __________________ GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V Last edited by GOLDCYLON; 02-08-2013 at 07:59 AM.