Electrical Problem Need Help

[scottfab]

Originally Posted by captcorvette

I started using the steering wheel of my cars to help me get out right after a near fatal accident 5 years ago. I use a short broom handle or shortened cane to help me get out of the cars comfortably now. But with the wires re-installed in the wrong position any force on the wheel including just adjusting the tilt was giving the wiring fits and increasing my 4 letter word vocabulary. Good luck and this is the right place to get help as this group of folks are the most helpful I have ever found and unlike me they are very knowledgeable.
Wayne

I don't want to hijack this thread but a new tread with pics and arrows showing this steering wheel issue would no doubt be of great value.

As for the OP. It's time to make some measurements. OR shotgun all grounds.
Nelson, if you can get the Bright Light symbol to come on and have access to volt meter and a FSM then some deductive reasoning can be used by measuring voltage drops at various locations.
Another approach could be to get the Bright Light symbol to come on and then mess around with the steering wheel (lower, raise and/or wiggle) in an attempt to get the Bright Light symbol to go out.
Either way leveraging the Bright Light symptom is high leverage.

[nelson007]

Hello Scotfab,
I have been in garage most of the day cleaning any ground cable that I could find. I even removed the door sills thinking there might be something behind them. Still have the same problem. I haven't checked any wires under the dash yet.
Scot the only way I can get the Bright Light Symbol to come on, is having the engine running put it in first gear and when I let the clutch out it comes on and if I have the lights on they go dim for a second.
What next !!!!

Thanks
Nelson007

[scottfab]

Originally Posted by nelson007

Hello Scotfab,
....snip...
Scot the only way I can get the Bright Light Symbol to come on, is having the engine running put it in first gear and when I let the clutch out it comes on and if I have the lights on they go dim for a second.
What next !!!!

Thanks
Nelson007

Well trying to simplify the elements of the cause would be first.
Try various other combos that do not involve putting in gear.
Putting it in first is the tough one.
If nothing else works .....
This will take a bit of time but:
1. jack up and back end and put it up on jacks.
Put jacks in the recommended places.
2. Get some blocks in front of the front wheels. Make sure the rear wheels are hanging free with emergency brake off.
3. You're about to have the rear wheels spin so keep everything clear.
Letting the car spin the rear wheels with them hanging for a long term is not good. But to isolate it'll be fine.
4. Do the needful... start, 1st gear, etc
Get the Bright Light symbol to come on. (if it won't stop the engine do not go further. no sense in continuing)
5. Slowly get out (or have someone else assist) being careful not
to touch the spinning wheel.
6. Measure the voltage drop between the engine block and the frame.
It should be <0.2v or so. If you see more try grounding the block with a separate wire to confirm loss of ground to the engine.

After all this if no progress time to reset and formulate a now plan.

[nelson007]

Thanks Scott,
I will try that later on today. After checking a lot of the different ground points yesterday with out seeing and rust or bad or corroded connections. I did not have time but I was going to connect a jumper cable to battery ground and than run it to different ground points to see if it makes a change. That how I do it on my C1s and 2's. I will still have to have the rear jacked up while doing this test.
I will let you know what I find.
Thanks,
Nelson 007

[scottfab]

Originally Posted by nelson007

Thanks Scott,
I will try that later on today. After checking a lot of the different ground points yesterday with out seeing and rust or bad or corroded connections. I did not have time but I was going to connect a jumper cable to battery ground and than run it to different ground points to see if it makes a change. That how I do it on my C1s and 2's. I will still have to have the rear jacked up while doing this test.
I will let you know what I find.
Thanks,
Nelson 007

I'd caution against relying on visual inspection especially when it comes to
aluminum. Loosening and re-tightening is a great temp fix.
I'd do that before any jacking up stuff.
The ones at the top of the bell housing can be done with the proper extensions from under the car. Also from above if you remove the plenum.

[nelson007]

Good Morning Scott,
Every connection I could find I removed the wires and wire brushed all connectors including the screw. I only saw one location on the passenger side of the bell housing. I held back doing that one due to the fact if I dropped the screw or wires I would not be able to put them back in. Maybe I will just loosen the connection and spray some cleaner into the connection. I did the two next to kick panels also. Are you aware of any other grounds under the dash?
Thanks,
Nelson

[scottfab]

Originally Posted by nelson007

Good Morning Scott,
Every connection I could find I removed the wires and wire brushed all connectors including the screw. I only saw one location on the passenger side of the bell housing. I held back doing that one due to the fact if I dropped the screw or wires I would not be able to put them back in. Maybe I will just loosen the connection and spray some cleaner into the connection. I did the two next to kick panels also. Are you aware of any other grounds under the dash?
Thanks,
Nelson

I don't think this is being communicated well. The grounds that I'm referring to would be on the block at the back of the engine and the side of the engine on the driver's side. Also the junction point for 12v near the battery next to the body panel. I'm not aware of any grounding issues that have surface in the interior.

[nelson007]

Thanks Scott,
I knew you were talking about the main grounds on the block. I was able to get to the passenger side of the bell housing. It took a variety of sockets and flex sockets and extensions. I have never removed the Plentum, I think I will wait for the next WAZOO maintenance day and check those. The negative run from the battery does that go directly to the engine block or to the bell housing?

Thanks,
Nelson