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#1 |
![]() Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: new jersey
Posts: 10
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okay guys so my 1990 zr1 #1330 was driving fine all day. on my way home from work the clutch pedal lost all pressure and went straight down to the floor! the car only has 80k on her. this happened to me once before and i changed slave cylinder and master cylinder and it worked. the ironic thing is that after i got the car home i got inside pumped the clutch about 25 times and had pressure and was able to drive it into my garage. ANY HELP FROM THE BROTHERHOOD WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED I REALLY LOVE THIS CAR AND JUST WANT TO GET HER RUNNING RIGHT!
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#2 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Portland Oregon metro area (Washington side)
Posts: 3,207
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I'd start by flushing the fluid.
If you had a bit of moisture build up and it vaporized you'd have an air pocket that could condense back to a water droplet. How is the fluid level? Another possibility is that a slow leak has lowered the level to the point where it's sucking air.
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Scott ![]() Vett owner since 1979._It's about the car and the people |
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#3 |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Bartlett, IL
Posts: 7,155
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More questions to add to Scott's
When were the Master and Slave replaced? Are they Cast replacements or OEM? Was the Clutch line replaced as well? did you lose the pedal the one time only? Let's start there before going any further in the Diagnosis
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1990 Corvette ZR-1 #1051 Watson Headers (2" Primary) - Flowmaster Cats - Borla Catback Late Model IH - Plenum Coilovers - 4.10s Custom Interior NCM Lifetime Member #978 |
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#4 |
![]() Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: new jersey
Posts: 10
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I haven't checked fluid level yet but I will. The slave and master were replaced in may and they are cast. The reason I replaced both was I lost pedal once before and had heard of these being common problems on the zr1. But this was in may also clutch line was not replaced.
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#5 |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Bartlett, IL
Posts: 7,155
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okay this is a test Bill B had me try
if the car is parked uphill for a few hours (could be nose up on Stands/ramps in the garage) After sitting for that time.. go out to car, depress Clutch, Start Car, then shift to reverse, it is not easy or will not go in then the Master is an issue I had cast pieces as well, but felt the clutch was not 'right' I bought new OEM type parts from Jim Jandik.. Much better operation of the clutch
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1990 Corvette ZR-1 #1051 Watson Headers (2" Primary) - Flowmaster Cats - Borla Catback Late Model IH - Plenum Coilovers - 4.10s Custom Interior NCM Lifetime Member #978 |
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#6 |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: CenCoast California
Posts: 899
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Are there any leaks in the system?
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Hib Halverson Technical Writer former owner 95 VIN 0140 current owner 19 VIN 1878 |
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#7 |
![]() Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: new jersey
Posts: 10
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turns out fluid level was low and it was sucking air. flushed and bled the system and im now happily rowing the gears in the beast again
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#8 | |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Portland Oregon metro area (Washington side)
Posts: 3,207
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I believe I'll be "rowing" a few gears here in an hour. Nice cool fall morning for it.
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Scott ![]() Vett owner since 1979._It's about the car and the people |
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#9 |
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Austin TX
Posts: 1
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Any chance you can give a quick description on how to flush/bleed the system. Ive just had my clutch fail (very low mileage) and my reservoir is low. I'd like to bleed the system before trying anything more extensive.
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#10 | |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Portland Oregon metro area (Washington side)
Posts: 3,207
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bake bleeding (some one press while someone else crass open the bleeder valve on the slave cyl.) Or you can fill the master res and then crack the bleeder on the slave cyl and let it drip keeping the master cyl full. Once the fluid goes clear you done. Close the bleeder. The challenge you'll have is cracking loose the bleeder. If it refuses to budge you'll likely have to clamp on a visegrip to loosen it.
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Scott ![]() Vett owner since 1979._It's about the car and the people |
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