My Car Has Become Unreliable

[Moonlk]

I have been reading through the solutions section but I think I might wait until it happens again and pay more attention to the symptoms. Then I may have a better idea of which system is giving trouble. I will also be hoping that it starts after waiting again.

[Demps]

I just beat this problem myself. There was a time I was ready to leave the car.

There are a lot of great posts. Let me somewhat simplify this-- it is either an electrical issue to the starter or a mechanical issue of the starter itself.

Prelim analysis and initial vector(disclaimer for keyboard warriors: this is my experience and may not be all inclusive): security light during normal start attempt=VATS. No voltage drop during normal start attempt when turning key, no security light, and clutch depressed=clutch switch. Finally, and the fun part, listen to the starter revolutions cold vs hot. Mine turned out to be a bad starter and obvious starter rev decrease when hot. Here's the last check: If there is no security light, voltage decrease with clutch depressed(watch voltage gauge, turn key with car OUT of gear, clutch not depressed, then depress with key turned) no start=bad starter or poor voltage to starter. How to diagnose:

Step 1: get a multimeter (auto ranging if you don't have one). Make a small hole in the big purple wire behind ECM to starter.

Step 2: when car doesn't start with indications pointing to starter: Measure voltage at big purple (behind ECM) wire going to starter. It can be <12V and confuse the issue. If close to 12V, it's the starter. If less, there are great posts on how to diagnose feeder relay/connection/switch losses.

Ted

[scottfab]

Originally Posted by Demps

I just beat this problem myself. There was a time I was ready to leave the car.

There are a lot of great posts. Let me somewhat simplify this-- it is either an electrical issue to the starter or a mechanical issue of the starter itself.

Prelim analysis and initial vector(disclaimer for keyboard warriors: this is my experience and may not be all inclusive): security light during normal start attempt=VATS. No voltage drop during normal start attempt when turning key, no security light, and clutch depressed=clutch switch. Finally, and the fun part, listen to the starter revolutions cold vs hot. Mine turned out to be a bad starter and obvious starter rev decrease when hot. Here's the last check: If there is no security light, voltage decrease with clutch depressed(watch voltage gauge, turn key with car OUT of gear, clutch not depressed, then depress with key turned) no start=bad starter or poor voltage to starter. How to diagnose:

Step 1: get a multimeter (auto ranging if you don't have one). Make a small hole in the big purple wire behind ECM to starter.

Step 2: when car doesn't start with indications pointing to starter: Measure voltage at big purple (behind ECM) wire going to starter. It can be <12V and confuse the issue. If close to 12V, it's the starter. If less, there are great posts on how to diagnose feeder relay/connection/switch losses.

Ted

I would not advise anyone turning the key first before pressing the clutch in especially on a 90 MY. This puts a great deal of current through the switch contacts and they arc when contact is made. The arcing destroys the switch pretty fast. Not the greatest design. The work around and way of making the switch last is to always depress the switch before turning the key.