Brake Cooling - Advice?

[lbszr]

Originally Posted by jrtoffroad

Quick update:

I went ahead and swapped over to some willwood 600 brake fluid, carbotech 10's front & 8's rear, and a new set of blank centric rotors.

I ran this way for a couple months and a few autocross events. The carbotech pads offer AMAZING braking, BUT require a great deal of heat and produce a large amount of dust. Getting a little sick of cleaning my wheels every couple days and not getting the full benefit of them in my autoX events, I have now swapped to Hawk HPS pads (and shelved the carbotechs for my next real track day).

I find the HPS pads still like a little heat for max baking. They do NOT stop as well as the carbotechs, but are a much better compromise, and do better at lower temps.

Still looking to build/buy some ducts eventually.

I have never tried the Carbo's, I don't know where from, but I always thought they were suppose to be low dust, oh well.

I have to change a previous post from me, the Hawk HT-10 are dusters too. I bedded in a set the other week with about 10 hard brakes and probably 15 miles, the wheels are pretty black.

[Daniel_Mc]

FWIW with the J55?s I ran Performance Friction SA01?s with great results (not a pad for the street). The pads respond well when heated and you still have very good petal control. I ran the VB&P rotors with DRM bias spring and the only issue I had to fight was the heat in the caliper. I had changed to the DRM SS pistons and it helped along with ZR1 MK?s duct plates and the Wilwood fluid. I still had issues boiling the fluid and was considering this coating from Swain http://www.swaintech.com/store.asp?pid=10968 Finally I got tired of screwing with it and just bit the bullet and did the Wilwood GN III?s and haven?t had to deal with the issue since. I use the ducting from HRP World, 2 for each side. http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...ction=category
One duct for the caliper itself and the other for the rotor. You can get what you need here and do the ducting yourself the Mid America kit is garbage.

Hope this helps,

Daniel

[jcruz]

Originally Posted by DaveK

The quality on that spoiler isn't great - I have one but haven't put it on yet. The spoiler itself is a bit cheap and the mounting for the tube isn't what I would call professional - just zip ties. Also I suspect the quality of the duct tube too - it looks very cheap.

Combined with the Quantum parts it would probably work okay - just not on it's own. I was thinking of getting a standard air-dam and cutting the holes in myself using the quantum ducts -

http://store.quantummotorsports.com/...products_id=67

I can confirm the above -- I recently took that Mid-America spoiler and zip tied tubes off my Z. It was quite cheesie.

[lbszr]

Originally Posted by Daniel_Mc

FWIW with the J55?s I ran Performance Friction SA01?s with great results (not a pad for the street). The pads respond well when heated and you still have very good petal control. I ran the VB&P rotors with DRM bias spring and the only issue I had to fight was the heat in the caliper. I had changed to the DRM SS pistons and it helped along with ZR1 MK?s duct plates and the Wilwood fluid. I still had issues boiling the fluid and was considering this coating from Swain http://www.swaintech.com/store.asp?pid=10968 Finally I got tired of screwing with it and just bit the bullet and did the Wilwood GN III?s and haven?t had to deal with the issue since. I use the ducting from HRP World, 2 for each side. http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...ction=category
One duct for the caliper itself and the other for the rotor. You can get what you need here and do the ducting yourself the Mid America kit is garbage.

Hope this helps,

Daniel

Would you be willing to sell the DRM stainless pistons if you still have them? They don't make them anymore.

Did you ever try the stainless shims between the pistons and pad? Just curious if it would be worth it.

If you haven't seen it, I thought this clip from DRM was interesting. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vetZamStsE

You must race? I have only run HPDE and back off with hard braking if I'm not running in a group, which is probably why I haven't boiled yet, and braking from 130ish is the fastest tracks I've been on. I've used temperature labels and the front calipers have been over 220, but not 320 yet(although the 320 label has been on there a while with the elements, might not be working anymore), I guess the pistons next to the fluid could actually be hotter though.

[Daniel_Mc]

Lbszr,
I gave the calipers away to a fellow GSR member for his car. I wasn?t aware that they were no longer available; who did you check with at DRM? I had heard about the shims but never have done that I do want to have some made for the wilwoods so as the pads wear I can press the pistons back into the boar.
I run HPDE?s hard I have not been W2W yet but several friends and I are building a lemons racer for this fall so it should be a blast. Texas World Speedway and Road Atlanta were the the hardest on the J55?s. At TWS the car was coming down hard from 150 plus for turn one running CCW (not really sure how fast I was going but was clocked at 141 in turn one running CCW). I have a buddy that runs with me and we use his temp gun and I have never see super high temps on the brakes. I will flush the fluid after each track day before the next days runs. Have you changed the bias spring? This will help some and also I wouldn?t try to compromise on the pads have you a street (no dust) pad and a track pad.

Look at the way this Z is set up it is extreamly well thought out and done properly:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/418999...orvette/page-3
Also see his notes starting on page 8.

Daniel

[ZZZZZR1]

They do sell the upgraded DRM pistons for the C5 / C6 brakes....

That is a VERY cheap and big improvement over J55's.

Many track guys have upgraded. I know of a friend that did the upgrade about 7 months ago, and nothing but permagrins!

Figure the brake upgrade would cost (including the best pads and powdercaoting the calipers about $800 MAX).



David

[lbszr]

Originally Posted by Daniel_Mc

Lbszr,
I gave the calipers away to a fellow GSR member for his car. I wasn?t aware that they were no longer available; who did you check with at DRM? I had heard about the shims but never have done that I do want to have some made for the wilwoods so as the pads wear I can press the pistons back into the boar.
I run HPDE?s hard I have not been W2W yet but several friends and I are building a lemons racer for this fall so it should be a blast. Texas World Speedway and Road Atlanta were the the hardest on the J55?s. At TWS the car was coming down hard from 150 plus for turn one running CCW (not really sure how fast I was going but was clocked at 141 in turn one running CCW). I have a buddy that runs with me and we use his temp gun and I have never see super high temps on the brakes. I will flush the fluid after each track day before the next days runs. Have you changed the bias spring? This will help some and also I wouldn?t try to compromise on the pads have you a street (no dust) pad and a track pad.

Look at the way this Z is set up it is extreamly well thought out and done properly:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/418999...orvette/page-3
Also see his notes starting on page 8.

Daniel

It was Randy from DRM, but I think he posted it on the forum when somebody asked about the c4, maybe he has some laying around if I called.

The lemons racing would be a lot of fun, I was checking out the websites for it not long ago.

I probably would have heat issues on tracks like that. I might be able to make Mid Ohio in august, could be a problem there. The fluid gets flushed after each event, so if it's a two day event, I've gone two days. I've changed the bias spring also, it seemed to help a lot going into the turns with trailbraking to get the car settled sooner. I use probably, origianal rotors and pads (pba) on the street and another set of OEM rotors with Hawk Ht-10 on the track, and trailer it to the track.

Do you know if the 17 inch stock 5 spokes fit the Wilwoods, 6 piston, or is there another caliper? And did you upgrade rear brakes also? Or not, with no handling issues? Just one more question, does the stock master cylinder still work with Wilwood?

I have slobbered over zrMK cardomain for days. There's a lot of good info in his notes. I need to configure my cooling system like his, so no more short shifting would be required.

[mbabbitt]

Originally Posted by lbszr

It was Randy from DRM, but I think he posted it on the forum when somebody asked about the c4, maybe he has some laying around if I called.

The lemons racing would be a lot of fun, I was checking out the websites for it not long ago.

I probably would have heat issues on tracks like that. I might be able to make Mid Ohio in august, could be a problem there. The fluid gets flushed after each event, so if it's a two day event, I've gone two days. I've changed the bias spring also, it seemed to help a lot going into the turns with trailbraking to get the car settled sooner. I use probably, origianal rotors and pads (pba) on the street and another set of OEM rotors with Hawk Ht-10 on the track, and trailer it to the track.

Do you know if the 17 inch stock 5 spokes fit the Wilwoods, 6 piston, or is there another caliper? And did you upgrade rear brakes also? Or not, with no handling issues? Just one more question, does the stock master cylinder still work with Wilwood?

I have slobbered over zrMK cardomain for days. There's a lot of good info in his notes. I need to configure my cooling system like his, so no more short shifting would be required.

Hi lbszr,

I have a set of those spindle ducts that I'll sell you. I tracked my ZR-1 for 6 years with over 20K+ track miles.

I installed the Willwood GNIII calipers at the 5 year point. That was the BEST thing I could have ever done tracking my car. I should have done it the first year. I went through CarboTech pads like butter. They stop you well but have NO longevity. PFC01's are what I used and they lasted a LOT longer that CarboTech's. I also used Castrol SRF fluid. Get the best.

I also installed a Dodge 3/4 ton master cylinder with at 1 1/8" bore that made a world of difference in braking. I NEVER had ANY braking problems with that setup.

PM me for any questions. I'll give you a good deal on the spindle ducts.

Mark

[lbszr]

Originally Posted by mbabbitt

Hi lbszr,

I have a set of those spindle ducts that I'll sell you. I tracked my ZR-1 for 6 years with over 20K+ track miles.

I installed the Willwood GNIII calipers at the 5 year point. That was the BEST thing I could have ever done tracking my car. I should have done it the first year. I went through CarboTech pads like butter. They stop you well but have NO longevity. PFC01's are what I used and they lasted a LOT longer that CarboTech's. I also used Castrol SRF fluid. Get the best.

I also installed a Dodge 3/4 ton master cylinder with at 1 1/8" bore that made a world of difference in braking. I NEVER had ANY braking problems with that setup.

PM me for any questions. I'll give you a good deal on the spindle ducts.

Mark

PM sent

[Daniel_Mc]

Lbszr,
Call Randy he may be out but if he finds anything he will call you. The stock A-Mold wheels will clear the Wilwoods but not the others. Neither will Gen I Dymags, Fikse wheels will clear however. I am running just the fronts (per Randy and Doug?s advice) They have told me that it was not that much difference since I was not running W2W with the car. I have a camaro MC but I have not installed it yet. It should give me a much better petal but as of now I have no issues and the car handles just fine. let me know if I can help you in any way with this.


Daniel