Amp / Voltage draw issue.

[robbz28]

Ok so i get home and look for my.good multimeter and cant find it so i grabbed my 10 dollar special analog meter set it to 50 mA DC and put it between the negative battery cable and the post and it pegged out my meter for a second and popped the fuse in it...so i just left the negative cable unhooked and came in...got to get some fuses and find my digital multimeter...

[robbz28]

Originally Posted by WVZR-1

You might have over reacted just a bit there but that's not a big deal. If the gear package includes the bushings fine if not you need to get some of those also. A MAM kit I think is both. Here's what I meant when I mentioned "bushings" and there's three per side:


The gears aren't often needed but if you're in there why not. I'd only be concerned with the electrical diagnosis this time. Check the draw first before tampering with the head lamps. If you show "no draw" then I'd cycle the lamps before I did any thing else and when they don't park or stutter check the load again.

Here's a link "DaveK" posted regarding the H/L repair: http://home.comcast.net/~zrjuan/headlight.html

The new bronze ones come with the bushings...and like you said...while youre in there why not fix it for good.

[gbrtng]

Originally Posted by robbz28

Ok so i get home and look for my.good multimeter and cant find it so i grabbed my 10 dollar special analog meter set it to 50 mA DC and put it between the negative battery cable and the post and it pegged out my meter for a second and popped the fuse in it...so i just left the negative cable unhooked and came in...got to get some fuses and find my digital multimeter...

There's quite a current inrush to the system when you connect the battery cable - probably on the order of 10s of amperes as the headlight controller and other systems come to life. So it's tricky to measure the current initially, but the current draw settles down after a second or so. Remember that there are two fuse panels (one at the end of the dashboard and the other under the dash on the passenger side) and the 6 or 7 fusible links
connected to the terminal behind the battery. So there's a lot of stuff to disconnect one at a time whilst trying to find the offending circuit. My best guess is to look for whatever aftermarket stuff you have first. The factory circuits that fail are likely due to sticking relays - like the fuel pump. Good luck ...

[robbz28]

Ok so i got my good multimeter and set it to volts this time...between the ground cable and negative terminal it read 12.83 volts. I flicked it to 200ma fused and it pegged and popped my fuse. Sooooo maybe alternator diode??

[WVZR-1]

Originally Posted by robbz28

Ok so i got my good multimeter and set it to volts this time...between the ground cable and negative terminal it read 12.83 volts. I flicked it to 200ma fused and it pegged and popped my fuse. Sooooo maybe alternator diode??

What brand and model meter? There's a "rush" initially like mentioned earlier. Set your meter to AMPS not Ma and make sure the cables are in the correct ports. Set to AMPS before using! It sounds like you're mentioning you switched it "while connected". Don't know?

[-=Jeff=-]

Post a Picture of the Multimeter or the brand and Model and we will figure out the correct connections for you

[robbz28]

Its a craftsman 82141. I didnt switch it while connected. The batter had been unhooked for a whole day when i tested it. I would post a pic but not sure how to do that from this phone. I put it on 200 ma ac

[-=Jeff=-]

Ok set the meter to the 10A setting. Leave the black lead in the middle plug. Put the red lead in the left plug. Assuming you have the + off the battery. Red goes to battery + black to + cable. Everything off see what the drain is.

[robbz28]

Well dumb old me...i didnt pay attention to the ac/dc settings. I switched it to 200m dc and it reads a 2.7
I blew the fuse on the 10 amp leg. I will see if i can find a replacement tomorrow.

[robbz28]

Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-

Ok set the meter to the 10A setting. Leave the black lead in the middle plug. Put the red lead in the left plug. Assuming you have the + off the battery. Red goes to battery + black to + cable. Everything off see what the drain is.

Ok so i unhooked my headlights and underhood lamps (they would try to run when i xonnected the meter) I set the meter like you said and got .27 volts i did it on the negative side as well and got .27 volts again.