Replaced Radiator and Thermostat - Page 2 - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

secondchance · 07-29-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pqtaces

Unfortunately, I am as mechanically capable as a baboon with no hands. So I have to take it in to get everything done.

I'm still trying to decide whether to put in the high capacity rad or not. I posted here asking if it was worth it and got a mixed response. Its only a $300 difference so I will probably just do it.

I am just waiting for my daily to come back from the body shop (dump truck lost it's load on the frwy and pelted me with rocks) so I can take the Z in.

Be aware that some high capacity radiator is good at keeping the motor cool at sustained high speed (as in racing) but may not help much in low speed street driving because at low speed you are relying on rad fans. Rad fans may not be able to pull sufficient air through thicker radiator.
I recall seeing a thread discussing merits and demerits between Dewitt and Fluidyne radiators. If I remember (I may have this backwards) correct, Fluidyne seemed to be the better choice for street use.
I replaced mine with factory radiator that came out of a 95 with a few thousand miles from a forum member. He was extremely generous and let me have it for $50 (you know who you are...Thanks!). Cooling has not been a issue ever since.
Also, I thought about intake screen but when I pulled the old rad, it was obvious that it wasn't just small debris but amount of fine particles that came out between fins were quite a bit. I can't see any type of screen that could allow air and yet keep fine particulate from collecting between rad fins.

bobbyhi · 07-29-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by secondchance

Be aware that some high capacity radiator is good at keeping the motor cool at sustained high speed (as in racing) but may not help much in low speed street driving because at low speed you are relying on rad fans. Rad fans may not be able to pull sufficient air through thicker radiator.
I recall seeing a thread discussing merits and demerits between Dewitt and Fluidyne radiators. If I remember (I may have this backwards) correct, Fluidyne seemed to be the better choice for street use.
I replaced mine with factory radiator that came out of a 95 with a few thousand miles from a forum member. He was extremely generous and let me have it for $50 (you know who you are...Thanks!). Cooling has not been a issue ever since.
Also, I thought about intake screen but when I pulled the old rad, it was obvious that it wasn't just small debris but amount of fine particles that came out between fins were quite a bit. I can't see any type of screen that could allow air and yet keep fine particulate from collecting between rad fins.

I have to agree about the HD radiator. When I did mine I put an OEM back in and no problems. Also regarding the screen, I did that when I had my radiator out. You wouldn't believe how small of particals that it stops from going up into your radiator. Even if you are not mechanically inclined this can be done with very little effort and most of the tools you would have laying around your house. Try it - you won't be disappointed

Good luck and save some money with the OEM radiator

More Mods...

GOLDCYLON · 07-29-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by secondchance

I can't see any type of screen that could allow air and yet keep fine particulate from collecting between rad fins.

Correct sand, dirt and slit wont be blocked, but the major debries like leaves, bags, straws and everything else will.

secondchance · 07-29-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by GOLDCYLON

Correct sand, dirt and slit wont be blocked, but the major debries like leaves, bags, straws and everything else will.

I hear you.
I have been known to make some wild evasive action to maneuver around crap blown around in front of me.

salvatore1 · 07-29-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pqtaces

Unfortunately, I am as mechanically capable as a baboon with no hands. So I have to take it in to get everything done.

I'm still trying to decide whether to put in the high capacity rad or not. I posted here asking if it was worth it and got a mixed response. Its only a $300 difference so I will probably just do it.

I am just waiting for my daily to come back from the body shop (dump truck lost it's load on the frwy and pelted me with rocks) so I can take the Z in.

Short answer - DONT waste your money buying a "high performance" rad. You will not notice the difference between the two, and you can save yourself about $180.

secondchance · 07-29-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by salvatore1

Short answer - DONT waste your money buying a "high performance" rad. You will not notice the difference between the two, and you can save yourself about $180.

Unless you run the car on track.

Ccmano · 07-29-2009

You do know that a HC radiator is not a drop in...? Mods to the mounts will be required because they are thicker.
H

tomtom72 · 07-30-2009

On the particulates......this is just a fwiw.

When I made my screen, I wrapped the rigid screen in regular fiberglass screen ( the replacement stuff on the roll ). I did a lousey job in that the fine screen material ended up having alot of folds in it on both sideas of the rigid stuff. Ya know I do find a good bit of dirt particles in it when I clean out the leafs & junk.

I was actually kicking around the thought of using the HVAC filter material that you can buy in the HDW store/ Home Depot. It looks like fiberglass matt as the fibers are randomly oriented...it's plastic fibers not fiberglass. Usually the stuff is used in air handlers at the "exhanger" location as a particulate filter. There is very little or no resistance to flow across this material. I just can't figure a way to make it easily changed out.

Tom

GOLDCYLON · 07-30-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomtom72

On the particulates......this is just a fwiw.

When I made my screen, I wrapped the rigid screen in regular fiberglass screen ( the replacement stuff on the roll ). I did a lousey job in that the fine screen material ended up having alot of folds in it on both sideas of the rigid stuff. Ya know I do find a good bit of dirt particles in it when I clean out the leafs & junk.

I was actually kicking around the thought of using the HVAC filter material that you can buy in the HDW store/ Home Depot. It looks like fiberglass matt as the fibers are randomly oriented...it's plastic fibers not fiberglass. Usually the stuff is used in air handlers at the "exhanger" location as a particulate filter. There is very little or no resistance to flow across this material. I just can't figure a way to make it easily changed out.

Tom

Thats a good idea Tom but in AZ I dont think we could get away with that one we need lots and lots of air flow. However you just made me think of something done long ago and might be an easier material to get a hold of.

Another idea the old sand rail dune buggy crowd was to place panty hose (Nylons) over their air filters to keep the fine sand and grit out. Military used this in DS/DS in th 90s as well.

RKC · 07-31-2009

Just replaced my high performance radiator with a stock unit. What a difference! Temperature stays nice and cool when driving around town. Before, thirty seconds after getting off the freeway the needle would be bumping the max temperature line.

I did a nice test drive just long enough for the gas guage to break. Now it reads empty all the time. Probably the sending unit. Oh well, as I said before, as soon as I fix one thing, something else goes wrong.

07-29-2009	#17
Ccmano Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Sparks, NV Posts: 2,852	Re: Replaced Radiator and Thermostat You do know that a HC radiator is not a drop in...? Mods to the mounts will be required because they are thicker. H __________________ 90'ZR-1 #1461 Red/Black Ported Intake, Degreed Cams, OBX Headers & Exhaust, Fidanza FW, Secondary Delete, Custom tune, C6 GS Wheels. Sold 08 C6 Z51 Crystal Red Metallic Sold Vararam Intake, Tune, Sold 05 C6 Z51 Red/Black Sold 90'ZR-1 #1723 Black/Gray Sold but not forgotten 91' Z51 L98 White Vert. My First, you always remember your first. Sold.

07-30-2009	#18
tomtom72 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Jacksonville, FL USA Posts: 4,645	Re: Replaced Radiator and Thermostat On the particulates......this is just a fwiw. When I made my screen, I wrapped the rigid screen in regular fiberglass screen ( the replacement stuff on the roll ). I did a lousey job in that the fine screen material ended up having alot of folds in it on both sideas of the rigid stuff. Ya know I do find a good bit of dirt particles in it when I clean out the leafs & junk. I was actually kicking around the thought of using the HVAC filter material that you can buy in the HDW store/ Home Depot. It looks like fiberglass matt as the fibers are randomly oriented...it's plastic fibers not fiberglass. Usually the stuff is used in air handlers at the "exhanger" location as a particulate filter. There is very little or no resistance to flow across this material. I just can't figure a way to make it easily changed out. Tom __________________ 1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member

07-31-2009	#20
RKC Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Southern California Posts: 20	Re: Replaced Radiator and Thermostat Just replaced my high performance radiator with a stock unit. What a difference! Temperature stays nice and cool when driving around town. Before, thirty seconds after getting off the freeway the needle would be bumping the max temperature line. I did a nice test drive just long enough for the gas guage to break. Now it reads empty all the time. Probably the sending unit. Oh well, as I said before, as soon as I fix one thing, something else goes wrong.