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#101 | |
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NC
Posts: 1,783
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![]() ![]() Dry fit... Last edited by Schrade; 05-20-2014 at 05:49 PM. |
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#102 |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,466
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That looks a bit flimsy. You can get some steel stock from the hardware store - suggest some 1/2" x 1/8" strap. Use a 1/2" long 1/4" carriage bolt, nut and lock washer to hold the DS flange tight! (tightness will afford a good bit of rigidity.)
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#103 |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Ponoka, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 158
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I think you got it covered Schrade, your ET's should be good.
No problem with parts, if you need something, I will see what I've got. |
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#104 | |
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NC
Posts: 1,783
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Access to change will be easy, although I tried to move it to rub the pipe, and it's pretty tight strapping doubled. And now, was one of the flange bolts longer? I didn't notice, as if it matters now.................. ![]() Black PTex non-hardening in the D/S grommet: Clean up removed hardware: Last edited by Schrade; 05-20-2014 at 09:53 PM. |
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#105 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Arvada Colorado
Posts: 192
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Looking good! She ought to be making some noise shortly. Lots of little details for " just putting headers and exhaust on the car" isnt there! It sounded so simple when I started my project. Im sure you feel the same way but it will be worth it in the end.
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#106 |
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NC
Posts: 1,783
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Hit a BIG snag...
I had done a dry-fit pipes with the P side headers hung from only the center stud. That allowed header 'play' for the X-section meet-up behind the tranny. Then with the P side header locked in, the second section of PE pipe hit the tranny pan flange, front corner. It looked like pipe compression AND pan milling was going to be necessary, but..... So I dropped the auto pan (a nice mess), and the pipe was clear of the case by plenty. And the auto has 1K on it, so not a bad time to do fluid / filter change for break-in. So we zipped off the lip from the pan flange, polished the edge, hung the pipe, and fit the pan. Last edited by Schrade; 05-23-2014 at 03:57 PM. |
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#107 |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Pendleton, IN
Posts: 3,899
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Great work, Chuck!! I really like your attention to detail.
__________________
1988 KOH Prototype EX5023 sold 1990 ZR-1 #444 Convertible 1990 ZR-1 Black #966 1991 ZR-1 Quazar Blue #296 1957 Duntov SS Project |
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#108 | |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,466
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![]() In my case, I have some repair work on my X pipe to do as result. So, I highly suggest you rotate those clamp bolt sections to the side, if possible. Otherwise it is a problem waiting to happen. Trust me! Very fine work, Cliff. You can come over and clean my engine bay anytime!! P. |
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#109 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 9,683
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OH MOST DEFINITELY, rotate this clamps. Clearance is at a premium. You don't want to make it worse or you may be running open headers without any intent to do so.
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#110 | |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,466
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