Changing the spark plugs.....

[Roadster]

Removed all of the spark plugs tonight, and were they ever in there!!!! very tight to say the least. Ended up combining what tools I already had, one that was recommended by many on the forum and a few I found that could help me out with removal.
Number 8 plug of course was the hardest, with number 6 being next in line. Both these two and all of the others needed some "gentle persuasion" to remove. You might have thought Superman installed them. Apparently that person did not use any anti-seize. From what the PO said that was before the previous PO, these plugs have been in there for 12-15000 miles.
They are AC 41-963's. They appear in decent shape for the mileage, but also may have some slight issues. Checking the gap, they were @ .050 and some were a little wider.

Some of the tools used....
The one on the left is the 5/8" with the swivel. The one on the right is a magnetic socket with a built-in extension...

the magnet worked great when a plug didn't want to come out...

the socket on the right is over 5" long and fits flush with the top of the head....you feel more comfortable with it because it is longer and therefore has better leverage...JMO

[Roadster]

also used some wobble extensions trying to find the best combo for #'s 6 & 8.


one of the tough ones....glad they are all out.....whew!!!

the final combo for #8...

[Roadster]

Some of you may agree or may disagree....I wasn't about to throw my back out removing spark plugs....so when I felt that they were in there really tight, resorted to one of my leverage tools. This time only a half of a floor jack handle. No room for the whole thing....lol I wouldn't do this on anyone else's vehicle, but for me it broke most of the plugs loose. Only two I undid by hand. The others needed persuasion......

Spark plugs from Left to Right.....
#8 #6 #4 #2...

you can see oil at the top of the threads on 3 of the plugs...

Spark plugs from Left to Right.....
#7 #5 #3 #1...
oil at the top of all of the threads...

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by Roadster

Some of you may agree or may disagree....I wasn't about to throw my back out removing spark plugs....so when I felt that they were in there really tight, resorted to one of my leverage tools. This time only a half of a floor jack handle. No room for the whole thing....lol I wouldn't do this on anyone else's vehicle, but for me it broke most of the plugs loose. Only two I undid by hand. The others needed persuasion......

Spark plugs from Left to Right.....
#8 #6 #4 #2...

you can see oil at the top of the threads on 3 of the plugs...

Spark plugs from Left to Right.....
#7 #5 #3 #1...
oil at the top of all of the threads...

YIKES!

IIRC, plugs only require (something like) 19 ft# of torque. Stripping the aluminum threads immediately came to mind - even if they are "only siezed".

On installation, I dab the tip of a finger in some anti-sieze goop, and make a single swipe (perpendicular to) across the threads before reinstalling the plug.

In 55 years of changing plugs I've never had one back out, nor require more than a gentle push on the ratchet handle to break it loose. (And, once the initial torque is broken, the plug usually unscrew with twisting the extension with my fingers...usually.)

Obviously, those threads didn't strip out; no harm done. But, I know you'll like the anti-sieze when you remove them next rime.

[XfireZ51]

I started usng a dab of oil instead of anti-seize. W anti-seize I found that I needed to snug up the plugs fairly often.

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

I started usng a dab of oil instead of anti-seize. W anti-seize I found that I needed to snug up the plugs fairly often.

I just use that tiny amount - never a problem. But, if oil is working, carry on.

Speaking of "plugs" seizing, I always use either Teflon (plumber's) tape or anti-seize on the various drain plugs; e.g., oil pan drain/fill plugs. That really does the trick - far as seizing goes. I never had one leak either.

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by Roadster

also used some wobble extensions trying to find the best combo for #'s 6 & 8.


one of the tough ones....glad they are all out.....whew!!!

the final combo for #8...

Yep. I use the setup on the right side of the photo (lying on the tire), except for #8. For that, I take off the knuckle and the long extension and drop the socket and short extension into the hole and seat it. Then I use a short breaker bar with a hinged (male) end. Very low profile.

OP: I use a little dab of anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs. It only takes (if I recall) 15 ft# of torque for spark plugs. And, being aluminum heads. one does NOT want to over tighten them more than that. (Ooooh! It gives me the "willies" to see a jack handle used as a breaker bar!!

If changing plugs gets yer attention, wait till you change the oil pressure sensor or the C-beam (w/o Boudreau's Beam plates) or the thermostat hose...

[Roadster]

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

Yep. I use the setup on the right side of the photo (lying on the tire), except for #8. For that, I take off the knuckle and the long extension and drop the socket and short extension into the hole and seat it. Then I use a short breaker bar with a hinged (male) end. Very low profile.

OP: I use a little dab of anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs. It only takes (if I recall) 15 ft# of torque for spark plugs. And, being aluminum heads. one does NOT want to over tighten them more than that. (Ooooh! It gives me the "willies" to see a jack handle used as a breaker bar!!

If changing plugs gets yer attention, wait till you change the oil pressure sensor or the C-beam (w/o Boudreau's Beam plates) or the thermostat hose...

On the tire is what I used for #8, I was able to work it in the spark plug hole no problem once I got the right combo. Still needed the 1/2" ratchet with the 3/8" reducer to make it all work.

And yes the jack handle "breaker bar"....I envisioned myself breaking off a plug, but I didn't apply pressure all at once. Just used a back & forth motion with just enough pressure to hear the creaking sounds.....as opposed to a cracking sound......lol I wouldn't recommend anyone else trying that unless they feel really comfortable in doing so.....

If I ever were to do the C-bean plates, that would have to be done at a future WAZOO get together. I don't have a lift and a lot of the guys have already done this job and have the experience for adding the plates...

[cloudshe]

Originally Posted by Roadster

also used some wobble extensions trying to find the best combo for #'s 6 & 8.


one of the tough ones....glad they are all out.....whew!!!

the final combo for #8...

you're right, those 41-963's don't look very good for that mileage. the original 41-407's were supposed to be good for 100,000 miles, i thought. i'm having a hard time sourcing a good stock plug right now, NAPA gave me a set of AC R44LTS6's they say match the '95 "double ovhd cam" model, but i can't find anywhere something that says they're acceptable plugs. btw, do you know how to get in contact with Jim Voter fm WAZOO?

[Roadster]

Originally Posted by cloudshe

you're right, those 41-963's don't look very good for that mileage. the original 41-407's were supposed to be good for 100,000 miles, i thought. i'm having a hard time sourcing a good stock plug right now, NAPA gave me a set of AC R44LTS6's they say match the '95 "double ovhd cam" model, but i can't find anywhere something that says they're acceptable plugs. btw, do you know how to get in contact with Jim Voter fm WAZOO?

The NGK's I have in there now, seem to be working quite well!!!
You can PM Jim....his screen name is....QB93Z, I will PM his cell # to you....