Silly power key question - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

32valvesftw · 09-24-2015

I have been thinking about keeping my power key but adding a big red switch ala the Men In Black Ford. I not really wanting to replace the key with the switch but just supplement it. It seems like it would be pretty easy to do but I am conceded that the added resistance of the switch and the potential current spike associated with energizing it may harm the ECU. Has anyone ever tried anything like this?

efnfast · 09-24-2015

sounds like a cool idea. What happens when you turn the switch on at 5k WOT? is it like hitting the nitros switch?

32valvesftw · 09-24-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by efnfast

sounds like a cool idea. What happens when you turn the switch on at 5k WOT? is it like hitting the nitros switch?

I have not tried that

efnfast · 09-24-2015

The owners manual recomends not to do it over 4K

Paul Workman · 09-25-2015

Just mulling this a little bit...

There are several ways that come to mind, depending on the MY. The 90s would be a little more complicated, but the later models would be quite easy.

The 90s switch (RED BUTTON) would work if the button itself were actually a sequential "ON-OFF" mechanical type; essentially performing the duties of the existing key-activated switch (to sustain the completed circuit). Or, the sequencing could be toggled electronically (solid state).

The later (91+ MY) could be done with a momentary "ON" button - in parallel with the existing dash key-switch "ON" switch mode.

I'll take Steve's word for it when he says the manual doesn't recommend switching to FULL POWER (switching from NORMAL to FULL POWER) above 4000 rpm: outside the discussion anyway, but there must be a reason.

Added resistance by adding a switch would be negligible - a non-issue. And, there wouldn't be any additional concern of inductive voltage spikes unless inductive reactant components are somehow included in the latching circuit for some reason.

But! Besides all that... until the operating conditions were met, the secondaries wouldn't be signaled on by the ECM, anyway; button or no. And, once up to temperature, the engine is still under the control of the throttle body...button or no.

So, to me (at the risk of being obtuse), such a button seems so unnecessary to the point of being silly, especially if the car is modded (as many are) to run w/ the secondaries on full time already. (The secondaries are on essentially full time, so what is the RED BUTTON to do?)

...Just sayin.

GOLDCYLON · 09-25-2015

Why just not bypass the switch with the harness or at the prom level like most of us have done? Full power always... No key or switch required

And Elvis never Died.... He just went home

32valvesftw · 09-28-2015

My initial thought was it would just be a novelty. Regarding bypassing the key, I prefer to keep the key active.

09-24-2015	#1
32valvesftw Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Texas Posts: 529	Silly power key question I have been thinking about keeping my power key but adding a big red switch ala the Men In Black Ford. I not really wanting to replace the key with the switch but just supplement it. It seems like it would be pretty easy to do but I am conceded that the added resistance of the switch and the potential current spike associated with energizing it may harm the ECU. Has anyone ever tried anything like this?

09-24-2015	#2
efnfast Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Dunbarton NH Posts: 7,567	Re: Silly power key question sounds like a cool idea. What happens when you turn the switch on at 5k WOT? is it like hitting the nitros switch?

09-24-2015	#4
efnfast Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Dunbarton NH Posts: 7,567	Re: Silly power key question The owners manual recomends not to do it over 4K

09-25-2015	#5
Paul Workman Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri Posts: 6,466	Re: Silly power key question Just mulling this a little bit... There are several ways that come to mind, depending on the MY. The 90s would be a little more complicated, but the later models would be quite easy. The 90s switch (RED BUTTON) would work if the button itself were actually a sequential "ON-OFF" mechanical type; essentially performing the duties of the existing key-activated switch (to sustain the completed circuit). Or, the sequencing could be toggled electronically (solid state). The later (91+ MY) could be done with a momentary "ON" button - in parallel with the existing dash key-switch "ON" switch mode. I'll take Steve's word for it when he says the manual doesn't recommend switching to FULL POWER (switching from NORMAL to FULL POWER) above 4000 rpm: outside the discussion anyway, but there must be a reason. Added resistance by adding a switch would be negligible - a non-issue. And, there wouldn't be any additional concern of inductive voltage spikes unless inductive reactant components are somehow included in the latching circuit for some reason. *But! Besides all that...* until the operating conditions were met, the secondaries wouldn't be signaled on by the ECM, anyway; button or no. And, once up to temperature, the engine is still under the control of the throttle body...button or no. So, to me (at the risk of being obtuse), such a button seems so unnecessary to the point of being silly, especially if the car is modded (as many are) to run w/ the secondaries on full time already. (The secondaries are on essentially full time, so what is the RED BUTTON to do?) ...Just sayin.

09-25-2015	#6
GOLDCYLON Join Date: May 2007 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 9,117	Re: Silly power key question Why just not bypass the switch with the harness or at the prom level like most of us have done? Full power always... No key or switch required And Elvis never Died.... He just went home __________________ GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V

09-28-2015	#7
32valvesftw Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Texas Posts: 529	Re: Silly power key question My initial thought was it would just be a novelty. Regarding bypassing the key, I prefer to keep the key active.