R134 A/C conversion - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

LantanaTX · 04-27-2014

Does anyone know where the orifice is? I realize I can just put the R134 in but changing the orifice to a variable results in colder air. Usually there is some dimpling in one of the pipes near a union which holds the orifice but I am not finding it on this car.

WVZR-1 · 04-27-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by LantanaTX

Does anyone know where the orifice is? I realize I can just put the R134 in but changing the orifice to a variable results in colder air. Usually there is some dimpling in one of the pipes near a union which holds the orifice but I am not finding it on this car.

Drops in the evaporator tube.

LantanaTX · 04-27-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by WVZR-1

Drops in the evaporator tube.

Great thank you!

WVZR-1 · 04-27-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by LantanaTX

Great thank you!

You should see the crimp in the tube. Those connections can be difficult to unthread.

The crimp can be seen here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Evaporato...d0ba3b&vxp=mtr

Schrade · 04-27-2014

I converted an '87 to 134 without changing any hardware, except an adapter fitting, that I remember.

I did do the conversion flush a couple extra times, and vented it ( just to see how much was left, of course

), and had no problems thereafter.

LantanaTX · 04-27-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Schrade

I converted an '87 to 134 without changing any hardware, except an adapter fitting, that I remember.

I did do the conversion flush a couple extra times, and vented it ( just to see how much was left, of course

), and had no problems thereafter.

I did the same the first time I converted one, but it never got quite as cold and then I learned about changing the orifice and then freezing cold.

LantanaTX · 04-27-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by WVZR-1

You should see the crimp in the tube. Those connections can be difficult to unthread.

The crimp can be seen here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Evaporato...d0ba3b&vxp=mtr

Thank you, I must have missed it. Just couldn't see the crimp. They are usually at the evaporator or the filter dryer.

scottfab · 04-28-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by LantanaTX

Does anyone know where the orifice is? I realize I can just put the R134 in but changing the orifice to a variable results in colder air. Usually there is some dimpling in one of the pipes near a union which holds the orifice but I am not finding it on this car.

chances are you're going to introduce some moisture to the system when you put the new orifice in I would suggest changing the dryer while you're in there. they are surprisingly cheap

LantanaTX · 04-28-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by scottfab

chances are you're going to introduce some moisture to the system when you put the new orifice in I would suggest changing the dryer while you're in there. they are surprisingly cheap

Never had to replace a dryer before when doing this, but the system must be evacuated before charging.

GOLDCYLON · 04-28-2014

Its always recommended to change out the receiver driver before doing the conversion. Your going to have to recharge the system anyway.

04-27-2014	#1
LantanaTX Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Lantana, TX Posts: 134	R134 A/C conversion Does anyone know where the orifice is? I realize I can just put the R134 in but changing the orifice to a variable results in colder air. Usually there is some dimpling in one of the pipes near a union which holds the orifice but I am not finding it on this car.

04-27-2014	#5
Schrade Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: NC Posts: 1,783	Re: R134 A/C conversion I converted an '87 to 134 without changing any hardware, except an adapter fitting, that I remember. I did do the conversion flush a couple extra times, and vented it ( just to see how much was left, of course ), and had no problems thereafter.

04-28-2014	#10
GOLDCYLON Join Date: May 2007 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 9,117	Re: R134 A/C conversion Its always recommended to change out the receiver driver before doing the conversion. Your going to have to recharge the system anyway. __________________ GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V