Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel_Mc
FWIW with the J55?s I ran Performance Friction SA01?s with great results (not a pad for the street). The pads respond well when heated and you still have very good petal control. I ran the VB&P rotors with DRM bias spring and the only issue I had to fight was the heat in the caliper. I had changed to the DRM SS pistons and it helped along with ZR1 MK?s duct plates and the Wilwood fluid. I still had issues boiling the fluid and was considering this coating from Swain http://www.swaintech.com/store.asp?pid=10968 Finally I got tired of screwing with it and just bit the bullet and did the Wilwood GN III?s and haven?t had to deal with the issue since. I use the ducting from HRP World, 2 for each side. http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...ction=category
One duct for the caliper itself and the other for the rotor. You can get what you need here and do the ducting yourself the Mid America kit is garbage.
Hope this helps,
Daniel |
Would you be willing to sell the DRM stainless pistons if you still have them? They don't make them anymore.
Did you ever try the stainless shims between the pistons and pad? Just curious if it would be worth it.
If you haven't seen it, I thought this clip from DRM was interesting.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vetZamStsE
You must race? I have only run HPDE and back off with hard braking if I'm not running in a group, which is probably why I haven't boiled yet, and braking from 130ish is the fastest tracks I've been on. I've used temperature labels and the front calipers have been over 220, but not 320 yet(although the 320 label has been on there a while with the elements, might not be working anymore), I guess the pistons next to the fluid could actually be hotter though.