Secondary Vacuum Solenoid

[jeasen]

First I want to introduce myself, I use the screen name of Jeasen and I am new to this board. I am also a new ZR1 owner (1990 Red on Red). Although I have owned, maintained and drag raced Buick Grand Nationals for years this is my first ZR1.

I want to thank all the ZR1 guys that have gone before me and say Thank You for all the information available on the ZR1. The information is very valuable to a new owner. I was able to diagnose and repair my fuel pump problem for the cost of a couple of metal clamps. Thanks again for the help available in the How To section.

I am now trying to fix my Vacuum Problem and get the secondaries working. I started diagnosing the problem last night using information available on this board. It was not long and I found that the plenum needed to be removed. Once the plenum was removed I started checking the vacuum lines in different places. The plastic vacuum lines and the rubber connectors were all good. The actuators are both good (I was using a vacuum pump). The problem is the Vacuum Solenoid (Part #1999222).

Now my problem, I called the Chevy Dealer and the part is no longer available. I would like to know if one of you guys know of a replacement part that would work??? If not can I just remove this part and jumper the vacuum lines??? What has been you experience?? I feel the need for FULL POWER.

[Pete]

Hi and welcome.

Do a search, i know there is an affordable replacement part for it.
Do a search on the internet,i know Audi has a few but will need to change plug.

If you feel the need for full power all the time yank the secondaries.


Pete

[Jagdpanzer]

Welcome aboard Jeasen, you are definitely at the right place for ZR-1 support.
Jim Butler Chevrolet has LT5 secondary vacuum solenoid valves listed on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-95...=p4506.c0.m245

There maybe more sources available that other members are aware of.

[secondchance]

Originally Posted by jeasen

First I want to introduce myself, I use the screen name of Jeasen and I am new to this board. I am also a new ZR1 owner (1990 Red on Red). Although I have owned, maintained and drag raced Buick Grand Nationals for years this is my first ZR1.

I want to thank all the ZR1 guys that have gone before me and say Thank You for all the information available on the ZR1. The information is very valuable to a new owner. I was able to diagnose and repair my fuel pump problem for the cost of a couple of metal clamps. Thanks again for the help available in the How To section.

I am now trying to fix my Vacuum Problem and get the secondaries working. I started diagnosing the problem last night using information available on this board. It was not long and I found that the plenum needed to be removed. Once the plenum was removed I started checking the vacuum lines in different places. The plastic vacuum lines and the rubber connectors were all good. The actuators are both good (I was using a vacuum pump). The problem is the Vacuum Solenoid (Part #1999222).

Now my problem, I called the Chevy Dealer and the part is no longer available. I would like to know if one of you guys know of a replacement part that would work??? If not can I just remove this part and jumper the vacuum lines??? What has been you experience?? I feel the need for FULL POWER.

Welcome to ZR-1 community!
Is this what you are talking about?
http://www.whiteracingproducts.com/i..._image&pID=279
I realize part number is different but not sure which specific part you are looking for.

[secondchance]

Originally Posted by Jagdpanzer

Welcome aboard Jeasen, you are definitely at the right place for ZR-1 support.
Jim Butler Chevrolet has LT5 secondary vacuum solenoid valves listed on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-95...=p4506.c0.m245

There maybe more sources available that other members are aware of.

Got to be one or the other.
Neither match the part number 1999222.

[QB93Z]

Hello and Welcome to the NetRegistry Forum.

I got a Secondary Throttles Actuator Valve from Butler Chevrolet last month. It fit perfectly in George's 1990 ZR-1. GM Part #197222.

Jim

[jeasen]

I got the part number off this forum. It is listed in the vacuum repair at the top of the How To section. The part I need is the part that secondchance listed the link to. It is the part that is for sale on Ebay. The electric vacuum solenoid.

But, I am wondering about the suggestion to yank the secondaries. If this is an option that will not cause more problems then I like it. It seems to me that a whole series of plastic vacuum lines, rubber connectors, actuators, and solenoids are going to be nothing but trouble on a 20 year old car. I know this option would eliminate the power key function but I do not see that as a problem.

I would probably leave everything in place but just wire the secondary butterflies open. That way I would not be removing original parts. I would just be altering the function of the parts.

Are you guys sure that wiring the secondary butterflies open will not cause codes to set in the computer or cause problems with the operation of the motor???? If there is not a problem with doing this then this is what I am going to do.

Thanks for all your responses and offers of help. I am glad to now be a part of your ZR1 community.

Jeasen

[XfireZ51]

Originally Posted by jeasen

I got the part number off this forum. It is listed in the vacuum repair at the top of the How To section. The part I need is the part that secondchance listed the link to. It is the part that is for sale on Ebay. The electric vacuum solenoid.

But, I am wondering about the suggestion to yank the secondaries. If this is an option that will not cause more problems then I like it. It seems to me that a whole series of plastic vacuum lines, rubber connectors, actuators, and solenoids are going to be nothing but trouble on a 20 year old car. I know this option would eliminate the power key function but I do not see that as a problem.

I would probably leave everything in place but just wire the secondary butterflies open. That way I would not be removing original parts. I would just be altering the function of the parts.

Are you guys sure that wiring the secondary butterflies open will not cause codes to set in the computer or cause problems with the operation of the motor???? If there is not a problem with doing this then this is what I am going to do.

Thanks for all your responses and offers of help. I am glad to now be a part of your ZR1 community.

Jeasen

Jeasen,

I have mine tie wrapped open although I did remove the throttle plates.
The code is set with the ECM seeing the incorrect conditions for opening or closing the throttle, ie is there enough vacuum. That is controlled by the signal from the Differential MAP sensor. It can essentially be bypassed either mechanically or electrically so the ECM always sees the necessary vacuum. The calibration would be modified to run with secondaries always open except for idle.

[secondchance]

Originally Posted by jeasen

I got the part number off this forum. It is listed in the vacuum repair at the top of the How To section. The part I need is the part that secondchance listed the link to. It is the part that is for sale on Ebay. The electric vacuum solenoid.

But, I am wondering about the suggestion to yank the secondaries. If this is an option that will not cause more problems then I like it. It seems to me that a whole series of plastic vacuum lines, rubber connectors, actuators, and solenoids are going to be nothing but trouble on a 20 year old car. I know this option would eliminate the power key function but I do not see that as a problem.

I would probably leave everything in place but just wire the secondary butterflies open. That way I would not be removing original parts. I would just be altering the function of the parts.

Are you guys sure that wiring the secondary butterflies open will not cause codes to set in the computer or cause problems with the operation of the motor???? If there is not a problem with doing this then this is what I am going to do.

Thanks for all your responses and offers of help. I am glad to now be a part of your ZR1 community.

Jeasen

I saw the same on ebay for $89. That is not a bad price.
As for tying the secondaries open, theoretically intake at low rpm will slow down due to twice as large intake cross section area. In turn this could hamper ideal fuel vaporization resulting in reduced torque. Also, if I understand XfireZ51 correct, it may require recalibrated chip.
I know some have removed or fixed 2ndary port plates open. As for quality of idle, effect on low end torque and whether this mod require custom chip or not I am not very familiar.

If you do replace vacuum actuators be aware it can be installed incorrect (180 degree rotated) accidentally resulting in binding. I heard some later LT5s had this mistake at factory.

[secondchance]

Originally Posted by jeasen

I got the part number off this forum. It is listed in the vacuum repair at the top of the How To section. The part I need is the part that secondchance listed the link to. It is the part that is for sale on Ebay. The electric vacuum solenoid.

But, I am wondering about the suggestion to yank the secondaries. If this is an option that will not cause more problems then I like it. It seems to me that a whole series of plastic vacuum lines, rubber connectors, actuators, and solenoids are going to be nothing but trouble on a 20 year old car. I know this option would eliminate the power key function but I do not see that as a problem.

I would probably leave everything in place but just wire the secondary butterflies open. That way I would not be removing original parts. I would just be altering the function of the parts.

Are you guys sure that wiring the secondary butterflies open will not cause codes to set in the computer or cause problems with the operation of the motor???? If there is not a problem with doing this then this is what I am going to do.

Thanks for all your responses and offers of help. I am glad to now be a part of your ZR1 community.

Jeasen

I saw the same on ebay for $89. That is not a bad price (at least relative to $109 I see elsewhere).
As for tying the secondaries open, theoretically intake at low rpm will slow down due to twice as large intake cross section area. In turn this could hamper ideal fuel vaporization resulting in reduced torque. Also, if I understand XfireZ51 correct, it may require recalibrated chip.
I know some have removed or fixed 2ndary port plates open. As for quality of idle, effect on low end torque and whether this mod require custom chip or not I am not very familiar.

If you do replace vacuum actuators be aware it can be installed incorrect (180 degree rotated) accidentally resulting in binding. I heard some later LT5s had this mistake at factory.