Could someone explain this device>>> - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

ZR1Vette · 04-30-2009

What is it

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-96...Q5fAccessories

Gunny · 04-30-2009

If your starter develops a "flat" spot, you can use any 1/2" - 5/8" diameter rod about 24-30" long to "tap" it loose. A brass grounding rod available from Home Depot is readily available. You push the rod straight down at the back of the engine until it touches the starter area. Take a flashlight & shine down behind the engine from above and you should see the area that you want to tap. Give it a few sharp raps with a hammer to help the starter get off the "flat" spot and it should start ... if that is indeed the problem.

Thanks to Gordon Killebrew (I learned this at his school a few years back).

btw, if this does get you going, it's probably wise to start looking for a new starter or having the existing one rebuilt. Changing the starter is very easy ... after you've removed the plenum, coil packs, etc. etc.

George

FU · 04-30-2009

Store under your seat for that feared rainy day that you need to tap that starter under your plenium with these heavy brass rods to get that beast started.

I guess if the starter dosen't work on a perticular day . One would but this rod together and beat the starter into submission

GOLDCYLON · 04-30-2009

Exactly where is the sweet spot? I have wondered about this, does anybody have a pic of the rod in the correct submission location to tap the starter. I 100% agree this is a get you down the road procedure until the starter can be pulled statement.

QB93Z · 04-30-2009

I used to have to do this to the starter in my Trans Am until I got around to replacing the starter (outdoors, in the snow). It is caused by a dirty commutator that has dead spots where the electricity can't flow. The mechanical agitation (smacking it) moves the rotor slightly and allows current to flow.

Jim

Gunny · 04-30-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by GOLDCYLON

Exactly where is the sweet spot? I have wondered about this, does anybody have a pic of the rod in the correct submission location to tap the starter. I 100% agree this is a get you down the road procedure until the starter can be pulled statement.

Getting a photo might prove to be difficult if not impossible ... you just can't see very well where you need to look. But the spot is almost dead center in the back of the engine. Lower the rod vertically until you touch the metal housing and that should be it. I watched Gordon do it and I've tried it a couple of times, but haven't even looked at that in over 3 years and my memory is probably (make that definitely) foggy. Again from memory, if you can shine a flashlight & position yourself to look straight down at the back of the engine I think it is reasonably obvious. Perhaps someone else can chime in & help me out here. As far as I know this only works when the starter is developing "flat" spots and is, at best, an emergency procedure only.

George

LGAFF · 04-30-2009

Haibeck told me another trick is to hook a battery to jumper cables, link it in line with your battery then turn it over.....the excess voltage willl blow off some of the buildup and fix your starter issues.

VetteMed · 05-01-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by LGAFF

Haibeck told me another trick is to hook a battery to jumper cables, link it in line with your battery then turn it over.....the excess voltage willl blow off some of the buildup and fix your starter issues.

Wait -- you mean to run it in series -- 24V? That can't be good. If it's connected properly, the voltage should be the same, albeit with more current... If I'm remembering properly??

LGAFF · 05-01-2009

Thats what he said to do, the voltage blows off crud apparently.

VetteMed · 05-01-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by LGAFF

Thats what he said to do, the voltage blows off crud apparently.

I'd think it'd do more than that... But then again, what do I know?

04-30-2009	#1
ZR1Vette Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Reston, Virginia Posts: 931	Could someone explain this device>>> What is it http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-96...Q5fAccessories __________________ Michael :cheers: [I][SIZE="2"]1990 RED on RED #566[/SIZE][/I] [I][SIZE="2"]WAZOO MEMBER[/I][/SIZE]

04-30-2009	#2
Gunny Join Date: May 2005 Location: Georgia Mountains Posts: 927	Re: Could someone explain this device>>> If your starter develops a "flat" spot, you can use any 1/2" - 5/8" diameter rod about 24-30" long to "tap" it loose. A brass grounding rod available from Home Depot is readily available. You push the rod straight down at the back of the engine until it touches the starter area. Take a flashlight & shine down behind the engine from above and you should see the area that you want to tap. Give it a few sharp raps with a hammer to help the starter get off the "flat" spot and it should start ... if that is indeed the problem. Thanks to Gordon Killebrew (I learned this at his school a few years back). btw, if this does get you going, it's probably wise to start looking for a new starter or having the existing one rebuilt. Changing the starter is very easy ... after you've removed the plenum, coil packs, etc. etc. George __________________ George Jones Founding Member #14 www.zrwon.com

04-30-2009	#3
FU Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Found Member Posts: 4,341	Re: Could someone explain this device>>> Store under your seat for that feared rainy day that you need to tap that starter under your plenium with these heavy brass rods to get that beast started. I guess if the starter dosen't work on a perticular day . One would but this rod together and beat the starter into submission __________________ Frank Urbo. NCM Lifetime member # 982 Registry Founding # 237

04-30-2009	#4
GOLDCYLON Join Date: May 2007 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 9,147	Re: Could someone explain this device>>> Exactly where is the sweet spot? I have wondered about this, does anybody have a pic of the rod in the correct submission location to tap the starter. I 100% agree this is a get you down the road procedure until the starter can be pulled statement. __________________ GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V

04-30-2009	#5
QB93Z Join Date: May 2007 Location: Westminster, Maryland Posts: 3,685	Re: Could someone explain this device>>> I used to have to do this to the starter in my Trans Am until I got around to replacing the starter (outdoors, in the snow). It is caused by a dirty commutator that has dead spots where the electricity can't flow. The mechanical agitation (smacking it) moves the rotor slightly and allows current to flow. Jim __________________ If it isn't fun, you aren't doing it right! 1990 Black ZR-1 - sold 1993 Quasar Blue ZR-1 1994 Competition Yellow ZR-1 1995 Dark Purple ZR-1 Maryland State Coordinator WAZOO Member

04-30-2009	#7
LGAFF Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Crystal Lake, IL Posts: 7,188	Re: Could someone explain this device>>> Haibeck told me another trick is to hook a battery to jumper cables, link it in line with your battery then turn it over.....the excess voltage willl blow off some of the buildup and fix your starter issues. __________________ LGAFF 90 #966-150K miles-sold 92 #234-sold 1987 Callaway TT #17 1991 ZR-1 #1359

05-01-2009	#9
LGAFF Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Crystal Lake, IL Posts: 7,188	Re: Could someone explain this device>>> Thats what he said to do, the voltage blows off crud apparently. __________________ LGAFF 90 #966-150K miles-sold 92 #234-sold 1987 Callaway TT #17 1991 ZR-1 #1359