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#1 |
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: England
Posts: 219
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My 90 'service ride control comes on intermittantly and lm going to be pulling the actuators to check for plastic parts breaks....so a couple of Q's
l assume its ok to replace just a single defective one without there being any ride issues because thay arent all replaced the 90 has the ride control unit in the rear access box behind driver l think...?...(sorry manuals not to hand)..how do you check for a bad control unit. if one was to basically remove the ride control function (take off all actuators) can you hard lock the shocks into a fixed position by just manually turning the rotator on the top of the shock......just assuming clockwise hardest....somewhere in the middle being medium and anti clock wise for soft (or of course the complete opposite of that)....do all the shocks just settle at either soft medium or hard setting if ride control isnt present |
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#2 | ||
![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 9,147
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I beleive you need a GM Tech1 or Tech 1A tool to get beyond the normal codes you can get from a paperclip in the ALDL Port. http://www.captainzcnc.com/ is a good site in the diag section when you start testing the actuators. Quote:
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GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director ![]() 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V Last edited by GOLDCYLON; 03-02-2009 at 08:49 AM. |
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#3 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: San Antonio area
Posts: 1,179
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With the actuators off, you can set the shock adjustment manually and they will stay where you set them. Remember that the correctly operating system changes valving with speed, so no matter where you set them, it's a compromise. Full clockwise looking down on the shaft is hardest.
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“Buy the best example of what you want, and pay whatever it takes. That way, you cry only once.” ~ Bruce Meyer |
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#4 |
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: England
Posts: 219
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Thanks for that guys
hard locking the shocks is a compramise if l find a bad one or two or a defective control unit so l can still drive while sorting it out Just another Q ....lets say one doesnt work.....does the control unit cut out the other three or do you run the risk of having three working actuators and a one not working.....which sounds like a recipe for some unusual handling leading to a crash...... |
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#5 | |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: San Antonio area
Posts: 1,179
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I opted to remove the LF actuator too and manually adjusted both front shocks to full hard. I left the rear actuators installed and set the control to "firm" or whatever the switch setting is. The vehicle handled OK, and I replaced the RF actuator and put the system back to complete several weeks later.
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“Buy the best example of what you want, and pay whatever it takes. That way, you cry only once.” ~ Bruce Meyer |
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